hawairish

Not necessarily. Photo wouldn't help unless it was of the stamping on the ring gear. The tooth counts are too similar to see a difference. 48 ring teeth : 11 pinion teeth = 4.363 51:11 = 4.636 49:10 = 4.9 If the front and rear were mismatched, you'd feel driveline binding when in 4wd. 2001 Xterra didn't have 4.9. If it came from an automatic or an SE, it's 4.636; if manual, 4.363

Some were. 4.363, 4.636, and 4.9 were available. The ratio is stamped on the ring gear.

Now that you mention it, there were timing chain guide issues in early 2nd Gen Xterras, but not sure if it bled into Frontiers and Pathfinders, but seemingly plausible. The guides wore prematurely and caused rattle noises. Don’t recall seeing much about them manifesting into timing issues, since the noise was fairly obvious of an issue. Personally, I go the scanner route. Mine supports live data, but also shows pending codes. Presuming they all do.

I'm inclined to say yes since there's instructions in the FSM to do it on the 3.5L; same process as you'd expect with the #1 coil. However, even if you know the timing, I feel like the nature of the VQ prevents you from making any sort of adjustments. Notably, a decent OBDII scan tool can return the timing advance value if it supports Live Data views. I've been face down in my scanner dealing with BS on my R50 lately and have been monitoring that, among many other things.

They were standard at some point; 2002 sounds about right. There are two switches on the door, actually. One for the rear hatch glass, and another for the fuel door. You'd also need the hatch latch mechanism and all the wiring. Not worth the hassle, IMO. It's a nice to have, I'll say that much.

That void is where my hoist was, but there are the bumpers.

Those are the bumper pads that get sandwiched between the spare tire and chassis. Need new push clips to install them.

I think I've seen a stripped one on a buddy's R50 before, so I guess it happens. And yes, applying a dry torque spec to a wet fastener results in more torque being applied.

Right? It appears it used the same switch as the WD21, which apparently was in use from 1994-1999, but I don't see any mention of it in 97+ FSMs. Interesting feature in a rather feature-less R50 platform. There were some other oddball features that existed, like rear heated seats, TPMS, and dropdown monitors + VCR systems. Add adjustable shocks to the list.

I didn't realize the adjustable shocks existed on R50s. But, your comment prompted me to look at the FSM, and sure enough, they did. Neat! Check out Amayama.com, looks like they may still be able to find them in Japan or UAE. Per NissanPartsDeal.com, for struts "F/Suspension w/ADJ Shock Absorber" I see the following p/n's per stamping on strut body: Stamped --> Old P/N --> New P/N LH#1: 54303-0W010 --> 54303-0W026 --> 54303-0W087 LH#2: 54303-0W011 --> 54303-0W028 --> 54303-0W088 RH#1: 54302-0W010 --> 54302-0W026 --> 54302-0W087 RH#2: 54302-0W011 --> 54302-0W028 --> 54302-0W088 They don't come cheap (>$200 + $96 S&H), and hopefully you need the #1 ones since those appear to be available. It's not clear what the difference is on those. Have you tried checking if the actuator (54397-0W000, 54397-0W010) is bad on them? The procedure is in the FSM, Front Axle and Suspension chapter.

Gotcha. Yeah, looked somewhat SW/desert-ish, thought I’d ask because I could help out if you were out this way.

You in AZ?

Sounds more like a short on the signal circuit, and the battery light illuminating is a false reading. The charging function of the alternator should have nothing to do with the turn signals, of course. I presume when you say the hazards work that the indicators on the cluster flash, as well as the front and rear exterior lamps. It only doesn't work when you turn on the left or right signals? And in that scenario when the gauge cluster cuts out, do the appropriate exterior lamps still flash? If so, you should be able to trace it to either the flasher unit, turn signal switch, or bulbs on the cluster. My hunch is at the cluster. Maybe pull one bulb at a time and try the turn signal. The reason the hazard function would work but not the signal is because they are two separate paths on the same circuit, but the hazard switch is near the start of that circuit. The turn signal switch is downstream of that.

@mcase, @Slartibartfast's spot on. You can even just pull the motor down pretty easily (it's 3 bolts I think?) and inspect the fan cage, give it a spin, check for debris or blockage, etc.

My opinion is this should have been omitted. It's none of your business how, when, or on what people spend their money on. Shaming them about it is bull@!*%. Haven't experienced this, and hope not to, but the issue has surfaced here in the past a few times. My opinion would be either option 1 (pull-a-part transmission) or option 3 (get it repaired professionally). Option 2 is largely throwing parts at a problem, but for all you know, option 3 could become option 2 if the shop says one of those parts is the problem and can change it without a full rebuild. Problem is option 2 may only be delaying an inevitable failure, and then you're right back at the beginning. If you think you can rebuild yours, but you need the truck operational to bring in income, then go with option 1 and try to limp along. This would give you time to rebuild the transmission, either by yourself or professionally. Swapping the transmission isn't terrible, provided you have a bunch of extensions, some patience, and a transmission jack. There may also be a lot in savings if you pull it yourself and still have it professionally rebuilt. Of course, if you're mechanically inclined and just happen to have an extra transmission to play with (after taking option 1), you might as well explore.

16" was stock for several years. I think even the pre-facelift trucks still had the 15" steelies and alloys that eventually made it onto the early Frontiers. Facelift LEs had the 17" wheels; SEs were 16". Doubt you'll have any issues.

Haha, I was…briefly! Tuesday was All Star Game and festivities, and Wednesday seeing J&L and my bro and his fam, then back on the road Thursday. Super short visit. Thought about you when we were flying through Medford, wish we could’ve stopped but we had a long drive ahead of us. Hope you’re well!

Interesting. I may dig back into it. Lokkas are just fine up front, given manual hubs. I ran one for a while. I’ll ask Towndawg how his is holding up…I’ll see him in 5 minutes, lol.

Sounds like a viscous LSD was installed. I vaguely remember reading about someone getting it to work since the rear R200 donors were also the same spline (29) as our fronts.

Yeah, I’m long with words sometimes. No LSD options for the front, so nothing to repack.

Def need a snap ring. At minimum the inner snap ring. It's what keeps the CV shaft in the spindle. Only time I've seen the outer ring land used is when the hub or drive flange has it accessible. Not sure what extra insurance it actually affords.

The R50s don't have those castellations, but I've seen them on Xterra spindles. There's mating ring that goes on, then the snap ring. I'm not sure that's the problem though. I wouldn't cut the castellations because you still need some spacer for the inner snap ring. You'd have to use the 1st style so that you could still attach the snap ring to something, but not sure it's advisable to only use the outer snap ring land. That ring washer doesn't look like the newer ones I've seen because of the way it has recesses for the screw, but more specifically the ring seems thicker and may be why the hub doesn't sit flush. Sydney doesn't have the internet or access to metric bolts? Upgrading to socket bolts was the way to go for me, but you can probably get studs and nuts for a R50 drive flange out there and use them on yours for the 1st style of hubs. P/N here is 01151-00271 for the studs, and 08911-6081A for the nuts. Appears to same for European and Japanese Terranos. Need 12 of each.

Free’s not bad, but I’d pay twice that for a 6-month cert.

Ha! We dealt with certs in my last line of work and there was nothing more annoying than a cert not getting renewed. For the most part, it was my IT guys getting the renewed cert beforehand and just not swapping it out. Difference there is they were 2-year certs, so an outage always caught us way off-guard. An expired cert was a total blocker in my line of work, and I could spend hours retrieving and processing missed data as a result once restored, not to mention damage control with multiple clients simultaneously. Absolutely sucked. That said, what's with the 3-month certs? Is there another cert authority that the host accepts that last longer, or is that just the CA of choice for the domain host? Guessing in a perfect world, the 3-month cert isn't a problem if auto-renewal occurs.

The FSMs have been back up for a while now. They were taken down the other year, but that's all been sorted. The screenshots I posted were from accessing the 99 FSM that day. It does appear that conversion doc is now no longer available, though. Since that other guide already shows how to bypass the P/N Relay in the box (you're basically just jumping the connections), the easier route to incorporate the clutch switch would just be to put it on the same circuit as the brake switch above the pedals. The ASCD module is just checking for any opening on the circuit, so if you add another switch there it won't know the difference. As for that relay bypass, if you want to keep the installation clean (and safe), you could pop open that relay and solder the connectors in there instead of just jamming wires into the open relay port in the fuse panel. Either way, make sure the wire is sufficient gauge, otherwise you're just putting a filament in place. Other way is to just make short jumper wires using crimp-on terminals. The FSM also confirms the following: Pin 18 is the signal to the Cruise lamp on the dash. The TCM also uses this as an input signal/switch that CC is engaged. Pin 12 is a signal to the TCM to turn off overdrive. This specifically occurs when the vehicle speed drops to 5 mph or more below the set speed, allowing the TCM to drop the transmission out of OD. Once the truck is 2 mph over the set speed, then the signal is turned off and OD use restored. The vehicle speed is detected by input from the gauge cluster ("Unified Meter Control Unit") on Pin 7, and speed is adjusted by the ASCD's control over the ASCD pump (Pins 8, 9, 10, and 14) That said, removing the TCM should have no impact on cruise usage, and wiring up the switch looks super simple. I'd bet if you can get the under dash wiring for the switch, you could just pop the terminals out of the harness and make it look like it was always there. For reference, you can find this info on EL-163 in the 99 FSM Electrical System. The first few pages cover the System Description, Schematics (shown above), and the Wiring Diagrams.