hawairish

Here I am 9 months later and I think I've finally sorted the issue. Last straw was it getting too warm the other night while it was 40F and rainy outside and driving freeway speeds. I mentioned previously there's a vent tube at the back of the engine. In the past, I felt I've followed the FSM well enough to bleed air out, but this time I went a slightly different route. Rather than just open the port and warm it up hoping all the air would come out before coolant started to, I instead attached a clear vinyl hose to it and kept it elevated a bit before looping it down into a water bottle (acting as a catch can). Started up the truck and let it idle to temp. Some coolant filled into the tube a few inches, and there was a steady stream of big bubbles, before smaller streams of bubbles every few seconds. Cycled the heat a few times, revved a few times and prolonged at 2K RPM, and bubbles seemed to stop for a while. Let it cool down for an hour or so, then idled it back up. Couple more bubbles, but nothing major and eventually bubble-free. Buttoned it up and drove it around today. Seemed fine, but on my next longer drive I'll hook my laptop up and do some data logging to confirm it's finally resolved.

I had a set of 2x 6-gallon "Trail'd" tanks that are designed to be hoisted up in that space, but I personally never got around to using them. However, my buddy does use them on his QX4. The hoist plate opening is intended for slightly-larger Toyota applications, and the factory hoist plate will work fine, but I did make an aluminum adapter plate that increased the hoist's footprint a little for some piece of mind. Other notable here is that if you have a considerable amount of lift (my buddy's truck has 4" of rear lift, while I have 6"), then the chain is too short to lower the tanks fully to the ground. You can carry around some 4x4 blocks to lower the tanks onto them so you can work the hoist plate through, but keep in mind these sort of tanks when full weigh about 50 lbs each....bit hard to lift both and manipulate the hoist plate through if the tanks aren't fully on the ground. In this particular case, I took the chain from another Nissan hoist and used it to extend the existing chain. The chain size isn't common, hence another Nissan donor. To extend the chain, I made a cut in the end link, twisted it to open the link, put it through the other end link, twisted it back, and welded it closed. Plenty of chain now to lower to the ground and drag it out from under the truck for better access. I did once try to mock up some sort of dual jerry can tray that would use the hoist mechanism. It's tight space, but seemed like just enough.

You do have to have the CV fully removed. It's supposed to be in tight, so putting up a fight isn't unexpected. Most of the time, I will resort to the following processes, in this order: 1. Loosen the nut, but leave it in place at the bottom of the stud. Smack the knuckle with a sledge hammer a couple times, then smack the bottom of the nut upward. Repeat. 2. Ball joint tool on the joint, tightened up so that there's tension on the joint, then sledge hammer to the knuckle. Joint tends to pop here. 3. Pickle fork. People seem to dislike them, but I've never had it not work, it's just usually a little more aggressive. 4. Heat the knuckle for a little bit, then do #1. Smacking the knuckle a few times is key. Just changed my passenger ball joint a few days ago. #1 was all I needed, but I'm fortunate to live in a dry region.

According to ARB, the R230 and H233B use the same 33-spline (both in spline count and axle shaft diameter). That front Patrol unit won't work because it's 31-spline. It's possible the 33-spline unit would fit an R230 carrier, given how close dimensionally they might be, but even if it does the R51 stub shafts use retaining clips to stay in place and it's unknown if it would clear the Lokka's side gears, or if the edges are chamfered to aide installation or removal, among other potential issues. Air locker options exist. ARB (RD137) or a cheaper TRE 4x4 (TR137), assuming you have 3.54 or higher numerically gears.

I tabled them here:

So you had to hold the button when starting the truck in lieu of depressing the clutch? On the Taco I mentioned, I think you just pressed it but didn’t have to hold it. It reset before next start attempt.

Right on. The 4.9s came in the latter years, I think just 03-04. The other two ratios were always available for the entire 00-04 run. Ratio depended on trim, engine, and transmission.

First time I'd heard of and used an interlock switch was in a 99 or 00 Tacoma 4wd 5MT, can't recall. Momentary switch that allowed one-time use to start the truck without the clutch pedal depressed. Particularly useful if on an incline and needing to start the truck with the foot on the brake. I'm happy to see this feature existed long before I saw it in a Taco, but I'll presume the WD21 acted like the above.

Not necessarily. Photo wouldn't help unless it was of the stamping on the ring gear. The tooth counts are too similar to see a difference. 48 ring teeth : 11 pinion teeth = 4.363 51:11 = 4.636 49:10 = 4.9 If the front and rear were mismatched, you'd feel driveline binding when in 4wd. 2001 Xterra didn't have 4.9. If it came from an automatic or an SE, it's 4.636; if manual, 4.363

Some were. 4.363, 4.636, and 4.9 were available. The ratio is stamped on the ring gear.

Now that you mention it, there were timing chain guide issues in early 2nd Gen Xterras, but not sure if it bled into Frontiers and Pathfinders, but seemingly plausible. The guides wore prematurely and caused rattle noises. Don’t recall seeing much about them manifesting into timing issues, since the noise was fairly obvious of an issue. Personally, I go the scanner route. Mine supports live data, but also shows pending codes. Presuming they all do.

I'm inclined to say yes since there's instructions in the FSM to do it on the 3.5L; same process as you'd expect with the #1 coil. However, even if you know the timing, I feel like the nature of the VQ prevents you from making any sort of adjustments. Notably, a decent OBDII scan tool can return the timing advance value if it supports Live Data views. I've been face down in my scanner dealing with BS on my R50 lately and have been monitoring that, among many other things.

They were standard at some point; 2002 sounds about right. There are two switches on the door, actually. One for the rear hatch glass, and another for the fuel door. You'd also need the hatch latch mechanism and all the wiring. Not worth the hassle, IMO. It's a nice to have, I'll say that much.

That void is where my hoist was, but there are the bumpers.

Those are the bumper pads that get sandwiched between the spare tire and chassis. Need new push clips to install them.

I think I've seen a stripped one on a buddy's R50 before, so I guess it happens. And yes, applying a dry torque spec to a wet fastener results in more torque being applied.

Right? It appears it used the same switch as the WD21, which apparently was in use from 1994-1999, but I don't see any mention of it in 97+ FSMs. Interesting feature in a rather feature-less R50 platform. There were some other oddball features that existed, like rear heated seats, TPMS, and dropdown monitors + VCR systems. Add adjustable shocks to the list.

I didn't realize the adjustable shocks existed on R50s. But, your comment prompted me to look at the FSM, and sure enough, they did. Neat! Check out Amayama.com, looks like they may still be able to find them in Japan or UAE. Per NissanPartsDeal.com, for struts "F/Suspension w/ADJ Shock Absorber" I see the following p/n's per stamping on strut body: Stamped --> Old P/N --> New P/N LH#1: 54303-0W010 --> 54303-0W026 --> 54303-0W087 LH#2: 54303-0W011 --> 54303-0W028 --> 54303-0W088 RH#1: 54302-0W010 --> 54302-0W026 --> 54302-0W087 RH#2: 54302-0W011 --> 54302-0W028 --> 54302-0W088 They don't come cheap (>$200 + $96 S&H), and hopefully you need the #1 ones since those appear to be available. It's not clear what the difference is on those. Have you tried checking if the actuator (54397-0W000, 54397-0W010) is bad on them? The procedure is in the FSM, Front Axle and Suspension chapter.

Gotcha. Yeah, looked somewhat SW/desert-ish, thought I’d ask because I could help out if you were out this way.

You in AZ?

Sounds more like a short on the signal circuit, and the battery light illuminating is a false reading. The charging function of the alternator should have nothing to do with the turn signals, of course. I presume when you say the hazards work that the indicators on the cluster flash, as well as the front and rear exterior lamps. It only doesn't work when you turn on the left or right signals? And in that scenario when the gauge cluster cuts out, do the appropriate exterior lamps still flash? If so, you should be able to trace it to either the flasher unit, turn signal switch, or bulbs on the cluster. My hunch is at the cluster. Maybe pull one bulb at a time and try the turn signal. The reason the hazard function would work but not the signal is because they are two separate paths on the same circuit, but the hazard switch is near the start of that circuit. The turn signal switch is downstream of that.

@mcase, @Slartibartfast's spot on. You can even just pull the motor down pretty easily (it's 3 bolts I think?) and inspect the fan cage, give it a spin, check for debris or blockage, etc.

My opinion is this should have been omitted. It's none of your business how, when, or on what people spend their money on. Shaming them about it is bull@!*%. Haven't experienced this, and hope not to, but the issue has surfaced here in the past a few times. My opinion would be either option 1 (pull-a-part transmission) or option 3 (get it repaired professionally). Option 2 is largely throwing parts at a problem, but for all you know, option 3 could become option 2 if the shop says one of those parts is the problem and can change it without a full rebuild. Problem is option 2 may only be delaying an inevitable failure, and then you're right back at the beginning. If you think you can rebuild yours, but you need the truck operational to bring in income, then go with option 1 and try to limp along. This would give you time to rebuild the transmission, either by yourself or professionally. Swapping the transmission isn't terrible, provided you have a bunch of extensions, some patience, and a transmission jack. There may also be a lot in savings if you pull it yourself and still have it professionally rebuilt. Of course, if you're mechanically inclined and just happen to have an extra transmission to play with (after taking option 1), you might as well explore.

16" was stock for several years. I think even the pre-facelift trucks still had the 15" steelies and alloys that eventually made it onto the early Frontiers. Facelift LEs had the 17" wheels; SEs were 16". Doubt you'll have any issues.

Haha, I was…briefly! Tuesday was All Star Game and festivities, and Wednesday seeing J&L and my bro and his fam, then back on the road Thursday. Super short visit. Thought about you when we were flying through Medford, wish we could’ve stopped but we had a long drive ahead of us. Hope you’re well!