hawairish

Great suggestions in there, especially cutting the extension cable. The ribbon cable on that sort of application also helps, since it can be flat or rolled up to wrap around existing wires...and being power wires for PC application like what you provided, they'll do well handling 12V and a bit more current. And definitely make wiring diagrams!

By my estimate, most applications should be doable in 8 wires (12V, illumination, and 6 signal leads) while using a ground in the roof (I presume there's a good one on the sunroof motor). If you don't plan to have the switches handling the load, you can get away with a smaller gauge wire and a relay module. With an array of modules, that wire could then become one or two multi-conductor cables (i.e., a Cat6 cable can handle the voltage, but only a small current...but it allows the use of other RJ45 connection means, which might help things). But, I don't think routing wires up there is too problematic. Not having a rat's nest above the panel is the real challenge. It would be terrible if removing the console meant disconnecting two dozen slide connectors. I use pinned harnesses for this sort of stuff. The do sell Carling switch harnesses, but they look really bulky.

No problem, Gerry! Please keep us posted on this project, it sounds great! Oh, and we love pics here at NPORA...post some up when you can. Again, having looked into an EV conversion recently myself (on a far simpler Nissan platform...practically without any electronics), I was definitely intrigued by the idea, so I absolutely want to see (and learn and contribute) more. A particular Ford Ranger done by EV West several years ago struck me as the standard I'd want to achieve. I'm planning to rebuild the engine and transmission later this year, so you've still got time to convince me (I do have shiny new headers in a box, and an eyeball on a turbocharger kit, btw...). Sounds like you've had a great career, but sorry to hear about the accident. Better to have some mobility than none, I'll say, so I'm glad you're able to make the most of it and hopefully there's still room for improvement. This project is one helluva way to prove what you're still capable of. As for the conversion, I was definitely seeing a declining cost for equipment, especially for salvaged OEM batteries. For sure, an array of standard car batteries isn't any cheaper today than it was a decade ago. And pretty funny to hear you've got two of the BMW i3 batteries already...it feels like those are almost brand new cars still! Display looks pretty slick, too. (BTW, for anyone looking, remove the "." from the URL.) About the R51 transfer case...just to be sure, does yours have the "Auto" mode on the dial? I knew the R51 to have the ATX14B All-Mode case (some R50s and all QX4s have the ATX14A), but I did not realize that the FSM also specs the TX15B as being an option (this was the only option on the Frontier and Xterra at the time). The R50 uses the TX10A case, which is a lever-driven Part-Time 4wd unit, while this TX15B unit is an actuator-driven relative that lacks an Auto mode on the dial switch (that is, 2H/4H/4L vs. 2H/Auto/4H/4L). More importantly, the TX cases lack the clutch-plate system—and consequently, a lot of complexity—that's in the ATX cases. Presuming you have the ATX, I feel like it'd be worth exploring the TX...spitballing here, but probably easy to find, I'd expect it to be a direct replacement, share similar (same?) wiring harnesses, same output flanges, etc. I'd probably still utilize the actuator system if I could (it read like there's a position sensor in it, too), if nothing more than to save the trouble of cutting into the transmission hump to install a lever and linkage, but perhaps the TX10A (also found on pre-MY05 Frontiers, Xterras, Pathfinders, and Hardbodies) would be a suitable donor for linkage, lever, and even shifter boots/bezels. Food for thought. Good call on getting the mechanical side of things sorted first, though. Also, I decided to do an actual search to see if others have tried the Quaife...and sure enough they have, so I'm certain we're on the right path. I prefer to do my own research on stuff like this (in this case, I would've never had a reason to bother looking), but I'm always certain I'm not the first to reach such conclusions. This was the first result: https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/quaife-qdf11l-installed-in-my-c200k-rear-axle.350923/. The author used a QDF11L, which supports the carrier break theory as his 2015 Frontier S 2.5L would have a gear ratio of either 4.083 (49:12) or 4.363 (48:11). It at least confirms that the overall carrier series dimensions are spot on, so now it's just a matter of confirming L4.

This is amazing, by the way. It has a name. This unequivocally sums up my interaction...and it bled over into another post, too. It was entertaining for a while, but "arguing with a fool only proves that there are two."

Hey Gerry, Ooooooohhh, that "all-electric"! I totally misinterpreted that. We've had a 98 Frontier in the family with manual windows, locks, and mirrors and every day for 22+ years I've wanted it to be the other other "all electric" (power windows, etc.). I was actually researching EV options for that truck a few months ago, too. Seemed neat, but the costs seem out of my league. I can only afford to reach across the seat to roll down the window. Anyway... So now, about the Quaife...I have a modified recommendation: I think the QDF10L is the correct model for your application, not the QDF13L. When I previously dug into this, it was only cursory searching just to shut that guy up (which it didn't, apparently). Digging a little deeper, I see Quaife has 4 possible replacements for the 350Z, depending on the transmission and the diff type it came came with: Auto/Open: QDF10L Manual/Open: QDF11L Manual/VLSD: QDF13L Auto/VLSD: QDF18L The Quaife website has dimensional spec sheets on each model (except the 18L, which just linked to the 10L spec sheet). The 10L has a 0.4"/10.2mm difference on the "L4" bearing-to-crown-surface measurement vs. the 11L/13L models, which suggests a "carrier break" between gear ratios. The 2003 350Z FSM shows that the MT has 3.538 (46:13) gears, while the AT has 3.357 (47:14). That extra pinion tooth (13 vs. 14) is enough to require pushing the ring gear over that extra amount to accommodate the larger pinion head. The 2005 R51 FSM shows the 4WD ratio as also being 3.357, and sure enough, the ring and pinion set (38100-2C360 -> 38100-0F36A) is the same as used in 2003-09 350Z and 2005-12 R51 (and same years D40 Frontier and 2009-20 370Z). So, my money's on the QDF10L. My confidence is pretty high just based on the part number cross refs alone, but with your carrier out and the specs online, that should confirm just about everything. I wouldn't even be surprised if someone else has done this, but I've not searched around for it. Your front diff is a smaller R180A model. Nissan did use R180A's as front diffs in older W/D21 Pathfinders/Hardbodies, and also as rear diffs in older Z cars (Subaru even used R180s), but it's a longshot they're similar. My Google-Fu suggests the car diffs were 8-bolt ring gears...not sure about the trucks, but I'll guess there weren't LSD options. ARB offers two lockers (RD180 and RD181, depending on carrier break) and shows the R180A as being a 10-bolt ring gear with 27-spline shafts at 1.09"/27.8mm. This "CD52P" LSD from Mother Russia might be just the ticket: https://www.ebay.com/itm/123629507939 At this point, I'd say running dual LSDs on that R51 would be pretty slick in itself...but since you're pushing the envelope by going EV...oh man... Speaking very broadly here since I've not worked on an R51 and haven't scoured the FSM (yet?): the removal of the transmission alone will very likely be problematic. The Transmission Control Module (TCM) provides input signals to practically every system on the truck. Even if you keep the transfer case, the transfer control unit (TCU) uses TCM data. I imagine much of this can be bypassed to some degree with some re-wiring (after all, it's just 12v solenoids doing the actual work, with some brains in between to keep anyone from engaging 4L at freeway speeds), so ideally the switch can be wired to provide basic signalling. To that extent, I use an All-Mode switch from R50/QX4 models to run my air compressor and air lockers...so I'd reasonably expect the R51/D40/N40 switch to be repurposable to signal the transfer case to be in 2H/4H/4L. But, it's a broad assumption having not looked into it. The brake/traction systems also rely on TCM data. On the plus side, if the transfer case is similar to the R50 versions (specifically those with All-Mode, including all QX4) then I believe the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) is on the transfer case and not the transmission. There may be another revolution sensor that might need to be simulated, but you really have to hope that the TCM-to-ECM (Engine Control Module) is not deeply impacted as well. The ECM in itself will be another problem. Do you plan to use the gauge cluster, or will you have some other interface/display showing EV-specific data? Of course, everything really all depends on what features/functions/system from the truck you want/need to keep. My best recommendation there is to list out all those items, download all the FSM chapters for the truck, and review all the system descriptions. The FSMs do a great job of describing function and indicating which systems/sensors are used and how. The troubleshooting/diagnostic sections will also provide voltage/resistance data for sensors. This way, you might be able to gauge which inputs can be simulated by switch and/or resistor to preserve a function, or otherwise trick a control module.

Just to make sure we have the main goal in mind here, I've interpreted "bypass[ing] the electronic AWD feature" as meaning you're looking to bypass whatever software-driven traction system you've got (ABS, VDC, TCS, ABLS, etc.) on the truck with a mechanical LSD. If so, my quick response would be that if you can find a suitable LSD, bypassing any system wouldn't be necessary: the system would just be supplemental to the device's functions. That is, the system would only kick in after it determined that a LSD (if it existed) was allowing enough slip to satisfy detection logic via sensors. Otherwise, if you do mean to bypass AWD, you may need to expand on what function you're referring to. The All-Mode system on the truck already has the means to bypass the mode simply by turning the dial to 2WD, but that option seems out of context to the questions. Either way, I'd just focus on the LSD part for now, if that's what you're really after. Admittedly, I don't know much about R51, but I can infer enough just from FSM data (https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals) and part numbers. Follow along... The 2005 FSM indicates you've got an R200 rear final drive. A parts cross-reference indicates that the side gears in your differential (38423-0C000 -> 38423-0C00A) are also used in 2003-2008 350Z cars and 2005-2010 Frontiers, Xterras, and Pathfinders. That means the splining between those vehicles are the same. The differential carrier (38421-0C000) for those trucks were all the same, and since the Frontier and Xterra have C200 rear axles, and yours has an R200 rear, it means those differentials are the same. (R200/C200 compatibility was also true on pre-MY05 trucks/SUVs/cars, but MY05+ R200/C200 are different from pre-MY05 versions.) From prior research just the other week, I can also confirm that the C200 open carrier from a 2.5L D40 Frontier is the same as a 350Z, and they too shared the same side gear. All the above vehicles use the same carrier bearings. I presume more parts to be identical. The end result is that, in theory, all the differentials from 2003-2008 350Z and 2005-2010 Frontiers, Xterras, and Pathfinders with R200 rear diffs (G35, R51) or C200 rear diffs (D40, N40) are all interchangeable. If that's true, a Quaife QDF13L LSD for 2003-08 350Z/G35 with VLSD should work in the truck. My full technical assessment is available here: https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/rear-axel-swap.368234/post-3903321, but the abstract that's relevant here is: If you decide to read into that post further, please enjoy my bashing of some idiot. There's also some technical "talk" about what Nissan calls a system versus what said-idiot calls a device, just to clear up the differences in traction systems and devices.

I'm pretty sure I have one, but I haven't the slightest clue where it is. I might need a few days to dig around...it's probably buried under my workbench.

I've been exchanging emails with Kenay and he's been very helpful. Here's the trim pics from his website (https://kenaykustoms.com.au/) so that we have some consolidated info here: Order in the pic above: W, K, G As mentioned previously, he is planning to update the site to allow for shipping to US, price will be around $70 AUD shipped (about $54 USD as of today). I may actually pick up the W trim since I light gray might be a nice contrast. But, I can wait out @PathyGig12's review...keep us posted.

Typo on my part (now corrected)...I ordered the "K" trim, not the "W". Also, I ordered two of them. @TowndawgR50 has the other one now and can weigh in on things. I also reached out to Kenay Kustoms and got a reply from the man himself, Kenay. An interesting notable was that the panel also fits an older Subaru Forester console. But he did share some advice about the color trims and thinks the "W" might be a better look. I'm checking if he's okay with me posting up some of the trim color pics here to keep the colors convo in context. He also mentioned changes to the website to allow for shipping to the US soon. (Duke's Camping also did a great job on the ebay transaction, despite ebay complicating things; they sorted everything out very quickly.)

@R50JR sent me an ebay link the other week for a Patrol switch panel and convinced me that it'd fit. I did some additional comparisons and agreed that it would. I had some concerns about how well the trim colors would match (there was a "K" gray, "W" light gray, and "G" tan, as far as I could tell), since it was clear the trim color codes were not the same here (my all-black interior trim is "G") and all the photos I could find seemed too tough to tell the exact tone. After some deliberation, I ordered the last pair of "W" "K" panels the seller had. After waiting a few days, they arrived. Product looked great. The color was a slightly brownish-gray. (My Frontier has a "K" gray trim, and it's not even remotely close). In hindsight, the light gray "W" might have been good contrast. But overall, I dig it. Fitment is good. Material quality is really good. Getting the console down from the roof and detaching the wiring harnesses from the backside of the sunglasses tray was the toughest part. Things may get a little more complicated once wires are up there. The company that makes them is Kenay Kustoms out of AUS. Unfortunately, they do not ship direct to the US, but I plan to reach out to them to confirm fitment based on the pics below. They also made color-matching blanks, except they were out of stock of them. The black ones were reasonably priced, ordered through the same ebay seller (dukes_4x4_and_camping) that sold the panels. Anyway, some pics below. Not sure what all I'll put in them yet, but it'll be way more useful than the worthless the sunglasses holder that doesn't fit any sunglasses I've ever owned. It does block the climate and compass readouts a little, but a slight head dip resolves that easily. It's not something I stare at regularly anyway. From this perspective, the color match is perfect: And it's too bad there aren't any cool Nissan switches to put here, but they would fit reasonably well:

@03TroutFinder My bet would be a bent LCA. Same symptoms/cause as a buddy’s truck. Check the area of the arm where it leads into the rear stem mount.

But lemme think on it. I’m a few weeks from moving forward on that project and it’s a possibility.

Thanks! The Detroit locker is currently sold as a complete full-carrier replacement (p/n 187SL167A), but I think it was also previously sold as a carrier-internals kit. The AC link you provided would be that kit pre-installed in an LSD carrier. They also sell just the internals: https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18915813-detroit-locker.html Since the older H233B 4-pinion open carriers were similar in style to all the LSD carriers, it suggests that this Detroit would've fit into both carriers. I've not done a close comparison between the 4-pinion open and LSD carriers to confirm that's true, but I might be able to. If the above is true, either option should work if you've got a 90 WD21. Note, too, that this was a 31-spline option only. Sites like this wrongly suggest it fits 33-spline applications: https://www.justdifferentials.com/Nissan-H233B-Detroit-Locker-p/det187sl-167a.htm

Possibly. I never got around to making any new sets, and in the years that have passed, I've been wanting to do a redesign on my setup. That may be happening soon. Undecided on that. I'd have to see if I still even have originals to work with, but there's a general reluctance to hand-over work like that unfortunately.

That is odd, not sure I have a good explanation there. Is it the same piece just being moved to a new location? There shouldn’t be a difference, at least not something that drastic. The backside of the side gear is machined smooth so I’d expect friction to be minimal relative to disc/plate friction regardless of the piece used (new vs worn) but hard to say. The amount of oil used during assembly could also be a factor, but I’m assuming it’s reasonably the same.

Here you go! Ford Maverick vs. Nissan Patrol: Mercury Villager vs. Nissan Quest vs. Guangdong Bus Works vs. Nissan Pathfinder:

https://www.remcodsc.com/coupling/ I'd never heard of such a thing, and now seeing it, I'm completely intrigued. A very neat concept...but something about trying to attach a contraption to the snout of an H233B just doesn't sit well with me...it's such an irregular shape, but I see how notching some of the ribs would help. I think I'd just be content reaching under and flipping the collar by hand, but I'd really love to see something like that in person. That'd surely simplify towing, although it looks like a pretty expensive option between the kit and driveshaft modification. Since it uses Dana 1310-series u-joints, just need to find an outside-clip flange yoke for the H233B. I think all the R50s used some non-standard inside-clip u-joint, but there's a 1310 OE unit; just used one the other week for my H190A-->H233B swap. I wrote down the Spicer p/n for it somewhere, and I think it's still available new.

Crawling around to disconnect and reconnect the driveshaft would suck, even on dry surface. You'd also need to make sure no one, including yourself, decides to start the truck and put it in gear when it's disconnected. That'll make for a bad day. Doing some additional light reading into the topic, though, I'm going to have to retract my prior opinion. The locked vs. unlocked steering got me thinking...it seems doable, but potentially unsafe. Compelling arguments read about included: Locked wheels being a slight angle, causing the vehicle to be towed crooked. The steering wheel lock being damaged. Unlocked wheels being able to turn left or right, causing fishtailing. Steering and suspension components being designed primarily for forward motion, not reverse. U-Haul having specific warnings to never to a car backwards on a dollly: https://www.uhaul.com/Articles/Tips/120/Tow-Dolly-User-Instructions/ So, given that, while it seems mechanically possible to do what's proposed, I'd say it's advised not to...which leaves disconnecting the driveshaft as the winning option. Carry a blanket to throw on the ground, and some big warning flag to throw on the steering wheel to prevent starting (perhaps in addition to disconnecting the battery once it's on the dolly).

And even if you pull the driveshaft, you’d still need a splined yoke to keep the fluid from draining out the rear output. Towing backwards on a dolly with manual hubs...I don’t see a problem with that. Should work out pretty well, actually.

I'd love to see the new Jimny's over here. Agreed on Nissan not taking some bolder steps in vehicles, outside the GTR. The Z Proto doesn't do enough for me, either. I really wish the IDx concept would come to fruition with a proper engine and RWD configuration. But, they just seem exceptionally weak in the truck and SUV market. The pickups have always been a staple, though I'm not sure if the Titan has made significant gains in popularity over the last 15+ years.

I don't like it. Congratulations, Nissan, for making another lackluster car...or another Honda Pilot. I've grown so tired of Nissan engineers talking about WD21 inspiration and then they still produce some homage crapmobile. There's no lineage here whatsoever (and arguably, any lineage may have only ever existed in the Xterra). A second generation in a row they couldn't even get the rear door handles correct. Personally, I like the new Navara front end over the Frontier. I was hopeful that the new Frontier would have the body lines of the more recent Navara, but both were a departure. I keep hoping that Nissan will produce another matching-body truck/SUV combo like the Hardbody/Pathfinder and 1st and 2nd gen Frontiers/Xterras (and even 3rd gen Pathfinder). In this case, I was hoping for a Frontier/Terra joint release. Disappointed yet again. I'll add that the Pathfinders (R50 and R51) and Xterras (WD22 and N40) should never have coexisted (and the R50 wasn't a good successor to the WD21)...which gets me to the new Pathfinder: With the Xterra having been out of the picture for a several years, Nissan should have done a chassis-share between the Frontier and Pathfinder. And bring the diesels over! (There are a single- and twin-turbo diesels overseas!) Nissan just continues to create bland vehicles here. I can't tell the difference between a Versa, Sentra, Altima, or Maxima any more. It's probably just a matter of time before the Frontier and Titan are FWD, too.

I had a similar issue on my 04...not that these systems share anything, though. But same symptoms: just steady throttle and then a random occasional throttle surge/hesitation. Would also happen when using cruise control, and was enough to cancel cruise. Mine did throw some "A-B" throttle position codes sometimes, but not always. "P2135" seems to ring a bell. The blips would occur regardless of code thrown (I don't recall checking if codes were pending). In the end, I pulled the throttle body off and cleaned it thoroughly. I went a few extra steps of drilling out the rivets on the cover and cleaning all electrical contacts inside. I probably wouldn't recommend going that far, but basic cleaning might not hurt.

Finished the parking brakes on the Frontier today! I'm very pleased with how it turned out, far better than what I did on the Pathfinder. The other night I determined that the 300ZX brake kit wasn't going to work. The return springs were too short, as were the anti-rattle pins. Figuring that if the Passport parts worked, maybe a kit for the Passport would work, too. The kit arrived today and worked out perfectly...so perfectly that I'd say 100% of the kit pieces are compatible with the WD21 brakes. The parts on the left are from Carlson 17396 for the Passport (and several other Honda, Isuzu, and Acura vehicles 1994-2015), and the parts on the right are from Carlson 17418 for the 300ZX (and Q45, both 1990-96). The kits differ by the return springs at the top, and the anti-rattle pieces in the middle (pins, round springs, and retainers). The blue springs, red/orange springs, and adjusters are identical. Everything from the kit got used (well, except the c-clip and spring washer...didn't bother, wasn't needed). The return spring design is a little different from OE, but worked just fine. The proof: I'm stoked to have all that sorted finally. If you're ever missing parking brake parts for your disc brake-equipped WD21, find a Passport or Rodeo (or others). And now... Parking Brakes, Redux I mentioned in my post the other day that I was going to try a totally different approach by splicing the WD21 and D22 cables together. The results came out great. I've not explored if the exact same approach can be taken on the R50, but should be the same fundamentally. Since I did this on the D22, I'll try to explain it in R50 terms as best as possible. The pics, of course, will be of the D22 because I'm not even going to redo the R50 (I think I tossed those lines anyway). Specialty tools wise, I used: a hydraulic crimper like the one used in the original project — for crimping the wire stops and butt splice connectors lineman's pliers, or something suitable for cutting 1/8" steel wire rope (small bolt cutters would work, too) a knock-off Dremel with a flexible shaft and metal cut-off discs — for cutting off crimp rings and cutting the parking cable outer sleeve and pinch clamp (Oetiker) pliers — for tightening pinch clamps on the rubber boots and hoses used to protect the parking brakes (optional?) Hardware: 2x 1/8" ID wire stops (I was going to use aluminum ones, but ended up using copper ones instead) 2x 1/0 (or "0") AWG butt splice connectors (I bought some from a local True Value that still carries hardware assortments, but they're available on eBay) 4x-8x single pinch hose clamps (18.2mm to 21mm; McMaster 5435K31) (...also optional) 5/8" ID thin-wall rubber hose (to cover the connector and protect the line; the stuff I grabbed at the hardware store was a thinner wall for plumbing use and was sold by the foot) The parking brake cable is two main parts: an inner cable, and an outer sleeve. For this approach, we're only splicing together the outer sleeves. The inner cable remains fully intact, minus cutting the ends and crimping new wire stops on. Before cutting the outer sleeve, make 100% sure the inner cable is pulled out of the way (cutting the inner cable in the wrong place is definitely not a good thing). The rest of the cable is just rubber boots, tubes, and brackets used for protecting and attaching the cables to the truck. Nissan uses compression rings to secure the rubber on the cable. The outer sleeve is made up of a metal "tube" and a plastic/vinyl jacket. The tube is actually a thick spring, which is why it's both rigid and flexible. I recommend a Dremel and small metal cut-off wheel over other means. An angle grinder with a cut-off wheel should work fine, but might be a little overkill. Just be sure to not distort the core, since it is just a spring. If needed, use a reamer, or jeweler's file, or other deburring tool to clean the opening, since the inner cable will need to pass back through without snagging. The end should also be flattened (the piece in the pic was scrapped, so it wasn't cleaned up). The cable has a 10mm outer diameter. I initially tried a 2/0 AWG connector, but it was too loose. The 1/0 connecter was a perfect slip fit, not loose, and not tight. The parking brake cable is mounted to the backing plate by a metal "foot" that is crimped to the outer sleeve. We're leaving that crimped part intact and cutting several inches away from it. I did 10" for this application, but something a little shorter (6"?) would be better. Not too short, but not too long. This will make it easier to sheath the cable with another rubber hose. (Remember, it's far easier to shorten something than it is to lengthen it...so be sure to cut enough material to work it.) The process starts by breaking down the WD21 cables to get the foot. Technically, you could just caveman cut right through the entire cable without doing any prep-work here. All that needs to be done here is to salvage the "foot" off the cable with enough of the outer sleeve still attached, and to keep the spring. Everything else won't be needed (you can try reusing the hose, but I preferred buying new stuff). My approach was to: Cut the exposed inner cable at the very end of the cable, farthest away from the foot. Remove the inner cable from the outer cable. Keep the spring. Use the Dremel to cut all the compression rings (I made two cuts on opposites sides of the ring...made it easier to remove the ring halves than make one cut and fight to pry it open). On the end farthest from the foot, I slid the boot down and cut the outer sleeve. Remove all the hoses on the line, leaving about 3' of outer sleeve with the foot at the end. Maybe keep the boots if they're not trashed. Now, the process repeats on the truck's cables. Start by cutting off the wire stop at the very end of the inner cable (cut right up against the stop), the pull the spring off (doesn't get re-used). Now, this is where things get tricky. On the D22, there's a short (18") tube that protects the line and is in between the foot boot and another up the line. On the R50, I think the tube is a little longer and is held in place by the brackets. Obviously, this tube obstructs where you'll be cutting. If you want to salvage the tube, you'll need to loosen up enough things (such as the brackets) in order to slide the tube up, exposing the area of the outer sleeve to be cut. If you don't care about the tube, you can just cut through it, but you'll still need to cut back enough to expose the outer sleeve (you can always put a larger ID tube over it after it's spliced). From here out, take your time with measurements and cuts. Definitely measure thrice, cut once. If you cut even a little too short, it's hard to find any slack to make up for it. Take your time. Start by mounting the WD21 cable to the backing plate. Make sure as much of the R50 cable is routed and attached in its normal position along the trailing arms (in my case on the D22, attached to the frame and routed over the leaf spring). Bend the WD21 cable to contour the original path of the R50 cable, then mark a suitable position on the R50 cable to cut (wrapping tape around it helps). This should probably be about 6" from the R50 foot. Make sure you also leave enough space to slide any protective hoses up the cable so they can be slid down after crimping. BEFORE YOU CUT ANYTHING: Follow the cable to the middle of the truck, where they connect to the parking brake lever and tensioning mechanism. You must pull the inner cable out enough so that it won't be cut! You may have to pop a dust boot off of a mount to do so. Cut the R50 outer sleeve only. You may need to detach the cable from the trailing arms so that you have room to work in. Once cut, reattach the cable to the trailing arm, again routing it in its normal position. Bend the WD21 cable again to contour to the desired path, aligning it to the cut end of the R50 cable. Check and double-check the cut position on the WD21 so that it'll meet up tightly with the R50 end, then mark the WD21 cable. Detach the WD21 foot from the backing plate, then cut the sleeve. It may be wise to leave a little extra on the cut, since the cable can flex if it's a little too long. If it's a little too short, it could be a problem. Once both cables are cut, you can confirm the lengths by slipping the butt splice connector on them. Do not crimp it at this time; it's just a test fitment. It should end up like this (well, similar...this is the D22 of course): You can see in this pic the connector is not crimped and that I have already mocked up the boot at the end. At this point, there's a bit of an order-of-operations. You must have everything in place on the line before anything is crimped. That means any boots, pinch clamps, the butt connector, protective hoses...everything must be in place first. Once the butt connecter is crimped, nothing else can be added or removed to the line. In my case, I left (or created) enough slack to slide a longer piece of tube that will get slid down. Reattach everything to the truck. Bolt the WD21 foot on the backing plate, and R50 cables on the trailing arm again. Everything should be snugged up a little, too. The reason is that the cable must be in its normal resting state with it's all crimped together, otherwise you'll hate yourself later. You can also push the inner cable back through the sleeve from the middle of the truck now. If it jams where the cables meet, you can move the cables around to guide it through. Once everything is attached correctly and pieces are on the cable, you can crimp the butt connecter. The hydraulic kit has a "50" and "75" die for 1/0 and 2/0. respectively, but a "60" would have been better here. The 75 is too big, and the 50 too small, but the 50 needs to be used here. Don't max out the 50 crimp! Instead, feel for a stopping point on the hydraulic crimper before the dies meet—this is the point where the crimper is starting to apply excess pressure to the spring core. I imagine the crimper could surely collapse the core, which would be a very bad thing. So, crimp firmly, but carefully. It should end up like this: Keep pressure on the outer sleeve while crimping to ensure it stays fully engaged in the connector and doesn't create a gap. At this point, you can slide down any protective hose over the connector, or crimp the pinch clamps on the boots or elsewhere. Here's how mine turned out: This is the RH side, but the LH side turned out almost the same. Also, don't rely on any numerical measurements here when you change sides. Just because you cut 6" on the RH side, doesn't mean 6" will work on the LH side. Despite all the warnings above, the only thing I forgot to do was put a pinch clamp on the outer protective hose. Now...I put earlier notes that the pinch clamps were optional. It seems like Nissan used the compression rings on the rubber parts mainly to keep moisture and debris out. I'd say you could use hose clamps instead (I did on the LH when I forgot), but the pinch clamps were a nice substitute to keep an OE look. I wanted the protective hoses clamped specifically to keep water out of the line and eventually working its way into the butt splice connector. The ones I got from McMaster were perfect. I imagine you could also use CV boot band clamps, but these pinch clamps were far easier. As far as the rest of the setup goes, just take your time. Other key points and suggestions: Slack all the inner cable lines as much as possible before cutting the wire or crimping anything on. This includes loosening the parking brake cable adjuster from inside the truck. This way, you can tension everything up later (it'll surely need to be tensioned regardless, so leave room to tension it). After everything has been slacked, start with one side. The parking brake system is designed to equalize pressure to both sides, even when one side engages first. You need to determine which side might have less cable exposed to work with at the adjustment point I think the R50 is fairly equal. But on my D22, my RH cable was only shortened 1/2" (where the OE wire stop was cut off), while I needed to cut 2" off the LH cable, because of the way it's connected. Do one side first. Pull the inner cable enough so that it is taut. Use the parking brake shoe with the lever to confirm a suitable crimp spot for the wire stop. Cut the wire behind it (i.e., leave space for the wire stop), cut 1/2" of insulation off the cable end, then crimp the wire stop on (the wire stop must be on the steel portion of the cable, not the insulation). Fully assemble the parking brakes (shoes, springs, rotor, etc.) on this side. This is so you can confirm sufficient slack was taken up at the lever point. Now, do the other side. Be sure to pull the cable taut, then repeat the wire stop installation and parking brake assembly, including rotor. Adjust the tension on the parking brake lever according to spec (see FSM). Again, I'm super pleased with the results, but there was a LOT of "think" time to check and double-check (and even then, I still forgot that clamp). Definitely pay attention to the order of operations when cutting or crimping anything; it seems very easy to make a little mistake that will render a component completely useless and require a complete replacement, if not a bit more corrective work.

That's why you're the man!

Correct. Also, both are 2-pinion open diffs. The H190 is a spare I picked up a few years ago to replace some busted side gears in the truck, and the H233 probably came from the D21 axle donor.