hawairish

Perfect timing, totriz...I was actually just surfing around to confirm exactly this. (Yes, literally the LE 17" wheel and RR hub combo.) Thanks!

Not sure if you got around to doing this or not, noquarter89, but replacing the front isn't too bad. As NissanBoston mentioned, you do have to remove the wheel hub assemblies because there's not enough clearance to remove the studs once loosened. I did it in about 2.5 hours (tires off to tires on), replacing all 12 front studs. I have moderate/high mechanical skills and only hand tools, a floor jack, and some stands. The only specialty tools I used were ring pliers (I think just for the manual hubs I have, don't recall), a Harbor Freight ball-joint separator (p/n 99849), and torque wrench. (The ball joints do not need to be separated, but I used the tool to pop the wheel studs out.) Removing the wheel hub bearings usually requires special tools, so take the following at face value: I've only needed (for a Nissan anyway) nothing more than a couple metric machine screws, a Phillips and flat screwdriver, an awl, large sockets, and a rubber mallet or mini-sledge to remove and install them. You'll obviously want to be familiar with the process, especially during re-installation (you'll need to ensure the bearings are seated, and that the safety washer is appropriately secured...you will tighten it to spec and then back it off just a little). Removing the wheel studs just requires the ball joint separator and wrenches/sockets (resist the need to use a hammer). Installation's done with a thick washer, and some open-ended acorn-style lug nuts (cheap, disposable), and a torque wrench. If you don't have a vice (like me), you can just replace one stud at a time and use the other studs (with a lug nut and wrench) to give you some leverage.

Sorry to resurrect an old post as my first post at NPORA. Seems I bought the OP's Pathfinder earlier this year, just stumbled on this, and thought I'd share how I reverted his setup a little, since I wanted the same thread pitch at all corners (a problem discovered when I tried to install wheel locks) but needed to account for the spacers and hubs. I replaced the front studs with OEM studs for the rear, which are 3/8" (9.5mm) longer. The .0067" difference in the knurled diameter is negligible; the knurled shoulder height is irrelevant (at .1574", it's either consumed by the spacer or the lug nut seat of the wheel anyway). They've also got the same pitch, obviously. The Dorman p/n is 610320 (Dorman front is 610240); RockAuto has all the specs. They installed without a hitch (as expected). Also bought a new set of lug nuts for all corners; $20 on eBay, taller than stock to ensure clearance up front, match the height of the wheel locks, and fit the stock tire iron.