Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST

Slartibartfast

Members
  • Posts

    6,719
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    151

Everything posted by Slartibartfast

  1. Ahardbody posted ages ago that he'd had his lock cylinders apart and found them pretty easy to work with. Unfortunately his pictures are gone, and the beergarage writeup he linked to is gone as well. I got the frozen driver's lock on my '95 working by blowing a bunch of powdered graphite in there and working the key until it freed up. Worked great, never had another problem with that lock cylinder. Boy did it piss off the power locks, though. I don't know if the graphite got into something or if working the cylinder free exposed an issue elsewhere.
  2. I don't know the R51, but I'd start by downloading the '11 service manual from Nicoclub and looking for a wiring diagram to see how that system is set up. Sounds like the motor is okay, but something in the controls is acting up. Maybe a loose connection, or a bad solder joint? Intermittent issues are always fun to track down. Good luck!
  3. At least the leak stopped! Figures it came up with something new. If this started when you fixed the leak, I would double-check the stuff you had apart. PCV hoses back on? Any damage to the intake boot? Any vacuum lines messed up? Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Mine stalls on warm idle now and then. Weak connector. Hasn't done it since I picked up a replacement connector, naturally. If you don't find a vacuum leak, inspect the MAF connector. Might as well check the sensor too, on the off chance something got in while you had stuff torn apart. You counted teeth when reinstalling the timing belt, right? I imagine you'd have worse symptoms if that was a tooth off.
  4. I am impressed that you got it out in one piece! I had a go at one of mine a while back and had enough trouble with it that I painted the other one in place.
  5. What do they look like? I searched that part number and found some metal clips I've never seen before. IIRC the rear hatch plastic is held by white plastic clips. If that's what you're after, I probably have some in my bag of random clips off the partsfinder.
  6. No, I think you would have to break off a corner of the glovebox itself to get a screwdriver in there. Maybe you could get a pair of pliers around behind and back the screw out from the pointy end, but I doubt it.
  7. Busted plug is weird. Hopefully the outside was busted, not the part inside the cylinder? Remove the distributor cap and have someone crank the engine while you watch the rotor. If the rotor doesn't spin when the engine does, your timing belt has let go. Hopefully it's not that. These engines are an interference design that bends exhaust valves when that happens. If the rotor is spinning, that suggests you've lost spark for another reason, probably electrical. Check fuses and fusible links. Run codes as well, see if you've got a code 21 (ignition signal missing in primary coil). I haven't driven a manual Pathy, so I'm not familiar with the interlock switch, and I'm not seeing an indicator light for the interlock in the service manual. Is this the backlight that comes on with the rest of the dash lights, or something else? If the issue turns out to be electrical, this could help narrow down where the fault is. I would start by checking fuses and fuse links, though.
  8. Late reply, but I had a look at the parts car, and I don't think you could get to the top screw for the end cap without busting out part of the glove box.
  9. Is it spinning over? Does it have spark? The interlock prevents you from spinning the starter without the clutch in, the switch lets you bypass it. If the engine is spinning, the interlock is not the problem.
  10. I have heard of the drive-by-wire getting its panties bunched when there's a sudden change in air flow vs throttle angle, and requiring a relearn procedure (should also be in the '03 service manual) to convince it that the sky isn't falling, even if the throttle body itself isn't damaged. IIRC someone on here couldn't get the relearn to take and had to have a dealer talk it down. I haven't heard of that stopping the fuel pump, though. When are you checking for power? Usually fuel pumps run when the key is turned on, briefly, but then stop until the computer sees that the engine is turning. Can you hear the pump run for a few seconds if you turn the key to the run position without trying to start it? Unlikely that the PO's kill switch happened to fail at the same time you cleaned the throttle body. Could also be that it won't start because the throttle body is fully closed. AFAIK the drive-by-wire rigs don't have separate idle control, so if the throttle body is damaged, and it's stuck fully closed, that could be why it's not lighting off. Any codes?
  11. I was ready to tear mine apart too until Adamzan said to check the seal. Passing it on.
  12. That's a good idea! I've seen switches like that on Amazon/eBay with all kinds of stuff written on them, nice to know you can custom-order too.
  13. When the crank seal on mine failed, the washer on the crank flung the oil away from the seal. Where the oil ended up made me think the oil pump was the problem. A new crank seal got rid of the leak. I know you just did yours--all the same I would open it up and check that the crank seal isn't the problem (scuffed crank, groove where the seal rides, spring popped out during installation, defective seal) before assuming the oil pump gasket chose this moment to give up. I don't know how worn your engine is at 345k, but unless it has absolutely hellacious blowby or a clogged PCV valve, crankcase pressure shouldn't be the issue here. If you do have to drop the oil pump, dropping the pan a few inches may let you get to the pump, but you'll need more than that to properly clean and re-seal the pan. At some point the PITA of working on an engine with a truck in the way outweighs the PITA of pulling the engine.
  14. I've welded a lot of sheet metal, and I think I'd rather wrestle with the wiring harness than weld/grind/bodywork all the way around the cab. Don't think I've heard of a spindle snapping off like that. At least you noticed the bolts before the caliper joined them!
  15. The switch itself doesn't do what you need, but if you've got a relay and some wire, I think you can make it work. The square-dash cruise control switch is like an ignition switch. The brown wire (pin 1 in the manual) is your common, that'll get wired to power. The black wire with the white stripe (pin 2 in the manual) is your run position. And white with black (pin 3) is your start position. Pink/blue and pink/black (4 and 5) go to the dash lighting circuit. EL-81 of the '90 manual shows the pin numbering and the wire colors. Note that the pins are not in numerical order, because that would be too easy. If you don't have the '90 manual, you should be able to buzz out what's what with a multimeter. Run a wire from ignition-switched + (or your amp control wire) to pin 1 on the switch. Then wire pin 2 to one of the relay contacts (30 or 87). Then wire pin 3 to the other relay contact, and to one side of the relay coil (85 or 86), and also to your power antenna wire. Then ground the other side of the coil to the dash support. If you're using a five-pin relay, you'll have an empty pin (87a), and that's fine. Pin 1 gets power when you turn on the ignition, or the radio if you wired it to the amp. If the switch is off, nothing happens. If the switch is on, pin 2 gets power, but still, nothing happens. There are two sets of contacts that can connect pin 2 to the antenna amp, but they're both open. When you turn the switch to start, pin 3 gets power. That triggers the antenna amp and the relay. The relay closes the other set of contacts, so when you release the switch to the run position, the relay holds itself closed, keeping the circuit live and the antenna up. When power is lost (switch off or key/radio off), the antenna goes down, and the relay contacts open, resetting the circuit back to where it was at the start of this paragraph. If you decide to try this, draw the circuit out first and make sure it makes sense. It makes sense in my head. So have a lot of other things. Might be a good idea to add a snubber diode across the relay coil so it's not feeding the antenna amp EMF each time it loses power. There's probably a cleaner way of building this circuit using transistors, which wouldn't have that problem. I went a much simpler route on mine. I wired the amp turn-on through a toggle switch. It's a bit clunky, but the switch fills a hole in the dash, and I only listen to the radio a few times a year anyway.
  16. Sounds like when the bulb popped, the filament bridged the high and low beam circuits together.
  17. I have heard of people running the 3.0 crank in the 3.3, but it seems like a lot of work to run inferior parts. They made the later cranks bigger for a reason. It's rare, but the 3.0 crank snout has been known to shear off. The 3.0 oil pump isn't bad, but I'm told the 3.3 pump is better. I guess it comes down to where you want the modifications to be. Mod the balancer, brackets, and water pump to keep the accessories simple, or mod the accessories to keep the engine simple. I'm not sure which is less work. If your aircon works, then, yeah, there's a good reason to keep the V belts. If you want to run a great big honking alternator, you may be better off with the flat belts. The later (130/145A) Quest alt will bolt up, but from what I've read, it may be too much for a single V belt. I've got a 90A Maxima alt on mine and haven't had any trouble with it.
  18. I've heard of this with the old WD21 RE4R01A. What happens from what I've read is that one particular snap ring breaks and chews up a sealing surface, which limits your line pressure (because fluid is bypassing internally). Reverse needs the most line pressure, so it's the first to suffer, especially when the fluid is warm and shoots past the damaged seal more easily. Sooner or later the part finishes failing and you lose the other gears. I thought the revised transmission that you've got had this failure mode revised out, but it sure does sound like it's found a way. Before assuming the worst, I would run codes on it, on the off chance the computer has another idea. AT-49 of the '03 manual (download from Nicoclub if you haven't) tells you how to run codes without the Consult scanner. The computer should be able to tell you if there's a wiring fault. Failing that, check the harness for any obvious damage. I wouldn't expect a wiring fault to only act up when cold, but it's worth a look. I would also check the fluid level, warmed up, on flat ground, at idle, though the last trans I saw with low fluid slipped when cold. AT-356 has specs for line pressure. I assume there's a diagram elsewhere showing where to connect a test gauge to get those numbers. If it's shot anyway, can't hurt to drop the pan and have a poke around, though I wouldn't go in expecting a miracle.
  19. Look for a "location of electrical units" page in the EL section. That should show you where that fuse box is located, and hopefully the underside of the lid identifies which fuse you're after. I would assume underhood, near the battery, but I don't know the R51.
  20. Auto/manual, not VG/VQ. Transfer cases used with manual transmissions came with the lip. I'm not sure why. There's also an early and a late variant, which I did some digging into a while back, because it was a rabbit hole and I have a weakness for those. But, yeah, grabbing the transfer from a 4x4 R50 of the same or similar year is exactly what I would do. Make sure your new front diff matches your rear. Looks like the 2WD trucks had the 4.3 ratio. If you're planning to run larger tires, this would be a great time to consider a 4.6 swap. Good luck with the conversion! Let us know how it goes.
  21. Obligatory "haven't tried this mod, but..." Unless the gap between the stock shifter and the console is hilariously bad, I would be inclined to come up with some kind of adapter bezel instead. That said, the R50 and WD21 use basically the same slushbox, so the shifter throw at least should be the same. If the cable ends match, the shift interlock is the same, and the electrical diagrams in the service manual match, you could probably make it work. I would be surprised if it was plug-and-play, though. Maybe the plastic cover for the R50 shifter would work with the WD21 innards? I tried to take my shifter apart once and decided to stop before I broke something. IIRC there are two screws on the back of the handle, but either the shift lock mechanism or the overdrive switch wiring was still holding it down, and I couldn't be arsed to take the whole thing out and puzzle it out on the bench. The transfer case shift knob just unscrews, yes. It may need reminding of this. Wrap it in something first so you don't tear it up with the channel locks. Measuring a curved console against a padded trans tunnel doesn't sound like fun to me either. I would remove the front seats and belt receivers, fit the console where you want it (get your shifter and front mounts sorted first), then trim as needed until the receivers fit again. You might get away with passing the sleeves on the seat belt bolts though the plastic, so long as the seat belt is still bolted metal-to-metal when you're done. If there isn't enough length on the spacers, either you'll warp/break the plastic when you run the bolts down, or the seat belt bolts won't be seated properly. Hooking up the outlet wouldn't be too hard. You could splice wires into the circuit for the cigarette lighter, or run a separate feed if you're planning to run heavier loads. I ran a separate feed to the outlets on mine because the stock lighter has hilariously tiny wiring, and I wanted to run an inverter. Sounds like you're going the right way for the look you want. The pictures I've seen of this mod completed looked pretty good. I went a different direction and made a console from scrap steel for mine. It does not look factory (it's hard to disguise a .50-cal ammo can, not that I tried), but it's got cupholders and it doesn't rattle.
  22. If the dash harness has been hacked up I would check the wiring to the switch first. Work out where each wire goes and make sure it actually gets there. Then re-check any fuses associated with the circuit, could be one blew when the PO shorted something with their electrician's machete. Hopefully they took out a fuse and not a control module or something. US models got the VQ40. I don't think we ever got the YD over here.
  23. My dad had a guy do the PCV in his '03, and he said he managed it without pulling the intake, though I'm not sure how and it did not sound like he had fun doing it. I would just pull the manifold. While you're in there, loctite your power valve screws if you haven't yet, and consider replacing the gasket on the idle motor before it fails (leaks coolant into the electronics and fries the computer). I would also order a set of valve cover gaskets while they're easy to get to. I haven't had the VQ intake apart but there's a writeup for doing the valve screws. That should get you most of the way there. The service manual (free download from Nicoclub) has all the torque specs and should also have a walkthrough for disassembly. The new PCV didn't solve the issue on my dad's rig. It still burned about a quart/1k miles. I never tore it down to find the problem. I've heard some of the early VQs weren't bored right and consequently have enough taper that they Just Do That. Hopefully this isn't the case for yours. Good luck!

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...