Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Slartibartfast

  1. I can see why you held off putting the winch on it until now! Looks way better. Nice fairlead, too.
  2. Well that's good! Yeah, could've been a little schmutz in a valve stopping it from seating properly, or maybe an air pocket in an unhelpful place. Hopefully it stays fixed, whatever it was.
  3. I haven't messed with one but I'd pull the shift boot and see if you can get it from above. Might have to pull the console and take the plate off the trans tunnel if the shifter hole isn't big enough.
  4. Yeah, it's gotta be internal. Probably the piston seal, so the fluid that leaks past just goes into the opposite chamber and back up to the res. Whether it's that or not, it's a yank it/send it back/get a replacement situation unless you want to tear it down and rebuild it yourself (and hope it's just a seal and not wear or damage to the hard parts). Hopefully there's some kind of warranty from where you got it, though, yeah, I know that doesn't make doing it all over again any more exciting. A different fluid viscosity or additive might make some difference, but ultimately it's still a defective part--either used/worn out or new/built wrong. Best I can think of for diagnosing the rack is to pull it out again, drain the fluid, disconnect the hard lines between the valve and the rack, and apply shop air to one of the fittings on the rack (the actual hydraulic cylinder). Wind the rack all the way to the other side first, though, so the air pressure can't slam the rack around. It should hold pressure. If the air comes right back out the other port, then you know the piston isn't sealing.
  5. I doubt it's the fluid. Sounds like a weak pump or a leaking seal in the new rack. The issue started when you installed the rack, and the pump worked fine before, so that points at the rack.
  6. That's a weird one. Sounds like a relay or solenoid, not that that helps. Interesting that the volt gauge dips so far. Kinda sounds like the shift lock solenoid kicking on, relays aren't normally that loud. I would reexamine the area where you were working when you removed the fog light wiring and look for anything you might've unhooked or bumped while you were in there. If you left the foglights unplugged, make sure the terminals aren't touching each other or shorting to something else. If nothing jumps out at you, the inop power window circuit is where I'd start. Find the wiring diagram in the '90 manual (get it from cardiagn.com if you haven't yet) and find a connector you can check for power and ground with the key on. See if it's missing power or ground, then follow the circuit in the direction of whichever one is missing. If all these issues started at once, chances are good you'll find they have a common cause. Good luck!
  7. The nice thing about a godawful leak is it'll have a hard time hiding when you go looking for it. Hopefully you don't have to dig too far to get to it. I don't know the R50 dash, but I had to disconnect my evap core to get its box out from under the dash in my '93. I could almost get the bottom off the box without removing the core, but there were two metal clips holding the back of the box together that I just couldn't get to. My aircon's dead anyway, so out it came. It wasn't pretty in there. I had vacuumed most of the chunks out already, but the styrofoam had stuff growing on it, mice had crapped in there because of course they had, and the core was packed with mud and pine needles.
  8. Thanks for the link! Adding that to my pdf hoard. Hopefully the new ECU gets you going again.
  9. Looks like you found a clean one! My dad's got the same year and color. The BCM likes to leave the parking lights on, and the front diff let go once (too much skinny pedal trying to get it unstuck), but it's a great tow rig and the 2UZFE gets up and goes when it needs to. One thing to check, there's a rubber bung on the timing cover where the wiring passes through for the cam position sensor. If it's not reinstalled correctly after a timing belt replacement, mice can get in, and mice aren't good for timing belts. (Skipped two teeth, shredded the mouse, valves were fine.)
  10. I don't know R50 HVAC, but I would be suspicious of the control unit (the potentiometer that the knob turns might be bad and only register when it's all the way to one side), or the actuator (its pot or wipers or whatever it's got might be borked to where it thinks full hot is just barely off cold). If it's got an air temp sensor, I'd check that too, but that looks like manual control--I would expect the actuator to move with the knob without other feedback (but like I said, it's not a system I've worked with). Download the '96 service manual off Nicoclub and see what it's got for troubleshooting the HVAC system. Hopefully the vent selector issue is at the control unit end. I would take the center of the dash apart, get the HVAC head loose enough to see the cable, and see if it moves when you move the knob. If it does, your issue's deeper behind the dash.
  11. If the rack moves back and forth without the input shaft moving, then, yeah, that's not right. I've never heard of someone stripping the spines on a steering shaft. I would expect something to break first. I pulled a rack from an R50 a couple years ago it was pretty simple. Fluid lines, TREs, shaft joint (remove the pinch bolt and the shaft should be free to slide out), and the four bolts holding the straps on, and out she comes. There wasn't much else left on that carcass, so you might well have a few more things in the way than I did. I paid $100 for the rack, angle box, and steering shafts (everything from the firewall forward), hoping to convert my '93 to rack and pinion and be done with the recirculating ball and linkage setup. Naturally that didn't pan out and it's all sitting on the shelf. If you do replace the rack, measure between the TRE studs before you take it apart so you can match it afterwards. Won't get you 100% aligned, but it should get you close.
  12. All the current for the headlights goes through the switch, and through those little angel-hair wires. I built a relay harness for mine so the switch is only passing enough current to engage the relays, and the relays have thicker wiring to the headlights. Should help keep the switch alive and supply a little more juice to the lights.
  13. Oof. Yeah, that's good and roached. Find the short yet? I would expect any federal/square dash/MPFI/auto trans computer to work, but I'm no help on the numbers.
  14. I don't remember mine having a shim or gasket.
  15. It's a bunch of guys who talk about engine oil weights and additive packages for fun, I'm not shocked that some of them are wound too tight. Sucks they dug up your dad's obit, though. That ain't right. I still have no idea why 10W30 would give you issues when 5W30 and 15W40 don't. Short of running it with different oil weights with an oil pressure gauge, or tearing down the top end and inspecting the lifters, I doubt you're gonna find a whole lot. If it runs alright with the factory spec'd weight, I'd leave it there. Mine's got 248k on it and I'm still running 5W30.
  16. Check for codes first, on the off chance the computer has some idea what's happened. If it'll communicate with the OBD scanner, you know it's getting power and it's at least somewhat functional. I haven't diagnosed an IACV failure on an R50, but IIRC it takes out its own mosfet in the computer, and that's it. If that's all that's gone, you might get it to start if you open the throttle part-way with your foot to make up for the air it's not getting from the IACV. If it'll start and run like that, but won't idle, that supports your theory. You could also open the computer, see if it smells like fried electronics, and inspect the mosfet (I remember seeing pictures of what it looks like and where it is, but that was a while ago) for obvious signs of being fried. I doubt the 4x4 light is related. Probably just the auto transfer case computer getting confused, especially if you have manual hubs. Unlikely that all six coil packs failed at once. Fuel pump noise is a good sign (assuming you're not just out of gas), but if you run out of things to check, wouldn't hurt to make sure you have fuel pressure. You could also pull a spark plug and see if it's wet with fuel after cranking.
  17. Hoo boy! Yep, that'll be the problem right there. Good thing you saved the old one. Wonder how the hell that happened?
  18. Damn, that sucks. At least you know one more thing it isn't! I'd pull the box and see if it's got a tight spot if you spin it by hand. That plate on the front of the box comes off, so you could open it up, wipe some of the grease out, and check the gears for broken teeth or something jammed in between them. Does seem like it's gotta be the box at this point, but it would suck to go down the rathole of which box will fit, and swap it, and still have that damn pop. Not sure about the year range for the box. There might be something in the SDS at the end of the ST section of the service manual listing the ratio, though I doubt it would give you anything regarding the spline count. I would check whether the joints are the same for other years. If they are, you know the spline counts didn't change, even if the gearbox itself was revised for some reason. The one on my shelf has a 28 spline input and output, same diameter (same joint fits either side). 1:1 gear ratio. Marked NSK, L (presumably short for LHD), and 0033 down by the gasket line. Looks like the one in your wrecker picture, except it's not borked. Dunno if that helps.
  19. If it's not running, it's not making oil pressure, and it's not charging. I would ignore those lights unless they stay on once the short is sorted out and the engine is running again.
  20. Double-check your MAF wiring. If you grounded the wrong wire, that could be what popped the fuse link, taking out power to the ECU (hopefully before anything else was damaged). The trans computer gets its TPS and engine speed data from the ECU, so it might just be pissed that it's not getting that. Should be one flash, then ten flickers, with one longer flicker corresponding to which circuit it thinks is damaged. If the Power light flashes continuously, it's got a power issue. Could be the TCU lost a power feed when the ECU's fuse link blew. In any case, the flashing power light seems like a symptom, not a cause. If the MAF ground checks out, check the injector wiring harness. Something is shorted out. ECCS is the first green relay (looking from the front). Labelled main relay on the fuse box cover in mine. The blue check relay is bulb check, for the idiot lights I think.
  21. I'd expect the CV would have to pull at least a couple inches to be in any danger of popping out. Hopefully your ball joints aren't that bad! If one ball joint was more whupped than the other, that might explain the pull.
  22. I've got a pair of panel clip spreading pliers for door cards. Much easier than tearing the clips out of the cardboard with a screwdriver.
  23. Check the rack bushings first if you suspect they're old and shot, but the steering pull and your CV issue makes me think something else is wrong. If the rack slipped in its bushings once, I would expect it to slip back when you steered to full lock the other way. Sounds to me like the suspension isn't holding one of the knuckles where it's supposed to be. Move one wheel fore/aft/outwards and you change its toe (which changes your steering wheel center, because the other side didn't change to match) and also the camber/caster (causing the pull). If it moves too far, maybe it could yank on your CV axle? I would inspect the LCA bushings for any obvious wear or damage, though I don't know if they could cause this even if they were totally gone. Check the subframe for damage while you're at it, maybe something moved there? Sheared LCA bolts? I don't know the R50 front end well enough to know what could cause that much play, but I'd expect it to flop like a fish once you had a jack under it, unless something is bent rather than worn. The alignment might look okay by eye but I'd check it with angle iron and a tape measure, with the steering wheel centered, to see if both wheels are steering to one side or if one's straight and the other's wonky. If you've got an angle meter, check the camber too. Might help narrow down what's going on. I don't think the rack could skip a tooth without breaking in a very obvious way. If the rack slipped in its mounts and increased your maximum lock to one side, I'd expect that to stress the outer CV joint if it stressed anything, and again I'd expect the bushings to slip back the other way if the rack encountered resistance. Track down what's gone wrong before adjusting the TREs to compensate for it. They didn't adjust themselves.
  24. Looks good! I remember mine took a few rounds to get right. I went too far with the first adjustment and it settled out way higher than I wanted. If your adjusters are hanging below the crossmember, you can reindex like Redpath said to tuck them back in. Otherwise they can catch on things.
  25. I don't know how close to the end of the exhaust is too close, but yeah, getting the exhaust sorted can't hurt. If nothing else, it'll be easier to diagnose the trans when you can hear yourself think. Good luck with the sensor, I had a hell of a time getting the old sensor out of my '95. The Nissan service manual should have a test procedure for the TPS. Nicoclub has a '94-'95 manual, but I use the '90 manual from cardiagn.com for my '93 and find it's more accurate for the square-dash trucks. There are two plugs for the auto trans TPS. One's just a wide open/fully closed switch, the other's a variable resistor. Absent a spec I would hook the ohmmeter to the middle pin and either of the outer pins on the plug for the resistor, slowly work the throttle open and closed, and see if the number climbs and falls like it should. A bad one might jump around or have dead spots, making the computer think your foot is doing stuff it isn't. The TPS can be adjusted as well, IIRC that's a matter of loosening the screws and turning the sensor on the throttle body to where the closed switch closes when the throttle is fully closed and not before. Been a while since I looked at it, so don't take my word for it. Should be in the EF&EC section. So long as the fuse links are still hooked up, and the connector on the other end isn't corroded or damaged, you should be good there. I doubt the metal chips caused a problem. I flushed mine through the cooler lines (disconnect cooler lines, put them in a bucket, run the engine until it stops puking fluid into the bucket, shut it off, pour fresh fluid down the dipstick tube, repeat until what comes out looks like what goes in). Mine didn't look too bad on the stick, but what came out was brown, and had the first couple drips had some metal shimmer in them. Who knows if/when it was done last. The level is a bit of a pain to get set up properly, and it's easier to add than to remove. IIRC I thought I had mine about right when it was cold, warmed it up, and had to drain about a quart to get it to the right level. When a friend and I flushed his Blazer, we measured what came out and put the same amount back in, and got pretty close that way. Thanks for the info on the dropping resistor. Sounds like a good trick for dealing with a slipping trans. Sounds like yours was dragging rather than slipping, so I doubt it would've done much there. The more I look into diagnosing auto trans problems, the more seriously I think about manual-swapping mine when the auto gives up!
  • Create New...