Slartibartfast

That'll do it! 87A is normally closed (opens when the coil is powered), 87 is normally open (closes when the coil is powered).

Thanks! Gotta get around to finishing that one.

At least you got it in the end! That must've been a grand old PITA to keep having to go through them. The service manual agrees with your coworker. It says to use brake fluid on the pistons, rubber grease on the piston seals, dust seals, and slide pins, and something called poly butyl cuprysil (or, failing that, a silicone-based grease) on the pad retainers. The ABS does have an "other" code (5), for which the first bit of troubleshooting is "overhaul both rear brakes." I have no idea how it would figure this out, given how limited that system is, but clearly it has tricks that I am not wise to! Weirdly mine did not throw that code when my rear brake circuit had air in it.

Limp mode kicking in during a hard turn makes me suspect a wiring issue. I would check that the battery is secured properly, and that the cables, terminals, fuse links, and engine grounds are clean and tight. If you find something loose/suspicious, clean it up, clear the codes, drive it, and see if the issue (and the codes) come back. I don't know that the computer would throw random codes if it lost power briefly while driving, but I don't know that it wouldn't, and it's easy enough to rule that out. If/when the codes return, use the troubleshooting section for each code in the EF&EC section of the service manual to chase them down. Which manual are you using? You have the wrong code table for '87. I don't know why, but the code table changed somewhere between '87 and '89. The code table from the '87 manual is as follows. 11 Crank angle sensor circuit 12 Air flow meter circuit 13 Cylinder head temp sensor 21 Ignition signal missing in primary coil 33 Oxygen sensor circuit 42 Throttle sensor circuit 43 Injector circuit 44 No malfunction in above circuits So you've got the temp sensor, the TPS, and the injector circuit code. The service manual has troubleshooting info for all three. I do not know of a PDF of the '87 manual, but I have an '89 manual up on Dropbox (which I found somewhere, naturally I can't remember where, or I'd send you there instead). '89 had the same throttle body injection, but the later code table, and likely various other small differences here and there. I have a paper copy of the '87, so if something isn't matching up, let me know, and I'll take some pictures of the relevant sections.

Spam never sleeps! At least it's still crude enough to recognize easily. I imagine it'll get worse once the muppets behind it discover AI. @RedPath88, if you want to throw some mod perms at me, I can clean up the ones I see. I'm around most days anyway.

The mouse nest may have something to do with the MAF code. Mine came with a rat's nest in the air box (same as yours, the blighter ate both the air filter and that little pad whatsit), and a MAF code. The nest had been sucked up against the screen on the MAF. I suspect the code was due to the computer not believing how little air the MAF was reporting getting past the rat's nest, but I cleaned the MAF while I was in there just in case it had a bit of rat's nest stuck to it. (Use a cleaner that doesn't leave a residue, and be very careful not to damage the filaments.) I cleaned it up, cleared the code, and have not seen that code since. These also commonly have issues with the connector for the MAF sensor. Mine acted up for years (surging/stalling at idle when warm, and a little stumble just off idle) until I replaced the connector. It never coded for that, annoyingly. The injector leak code means it can't get the mixture to lean out. This may or may not be due to an injector issue. Check the condition of the spark plugs. Look for one that's much darker than the rest, or wet with fuel. If they all look about the same, I would address the MAF issue, clear the codes, and see if the stumbling persists and/or the injector leak code returns. If it comes back, something else (possibly the coolant temp sensor) could be throwing the mixture rich. The knock sensor code is likely unrelated. Mine ran normally when it had that code. The code is for a problem with the sensor (mine had drifted out of spec) or the wiring (mice love nesting under intake manifolds). AFAIK it does not throw the code for actual knocking or pinging--it just quietly retards the timing.

Yeah, it's tough to justify when you know the rest of it's tired. I gave up on my '95 due to frame rot.

People have swapped VG33s into turbo 300ZXs. Find their build threads, copy their homework. Should be easier for you given the engine's already in the truck, so you don't have to mess with the pan and whatnot. Not sure what options are available for tuning the R50 ECU or how best to get it running off a standalone. I don't think I've seen a turbo 3.3 R50. 2milehi turbo'd a VG30 WD21 (and sold it to snowboard419). There was a guy on here who turbo'd a 3.5 R50, but IIRC his transmission was not happy about it. There's also a guy on the Farcebook page (not sure if he's on here?) who's got some crazy super turbo system going on, on an Xterra if I remember right.

Assuming it's like the harness I made for mine (one relay for low beams, one for high beams), then, yeah, that shouldn't be possible. Even if one relay was stuck closed, or wired to normally closed on the relay, that would be two lights on, unless you've also got one bad headlight bulb (or a faulty plug, or a broken wire). First thing I'd check is the splice where you shortened the harness. Make sure you didn't cross something up. Second, you swapped out the relays. Are the new relays the same pinout as the old ones? Did it work normally before the relay mod? Did you test the harness before modifying that? If in doubt, try to draw out a wiring diagram of the relay harness. Make sure it makes sense on paper, then check that it's wired the same way in the truck.

First two pictures look like the trans cooler lines are leaking. Might just be split at the ends. Should be easy enough to replace with bulk hose. Not entirely sure what's leaked on the rack, though again I'd check the lines and connections first. If it's too oily to tell where it's coming from, clean it as well as you can, drive it for a bit, and see what gets dirty first.

Failing at startup is probably the best case scenario for not bending a valve. You might've gotten lucky. Don't know that I'd bet a grand on that, though. Before throwing a belt on it, I would stick a borescope down the plug holes and see if you can find any obvious valve marks on the pistons. I did that on a VW once, told us real quick that the engine wasn't worth messing with. (That one let go at highway speed.) If you don't see valve marks on the pistons, throw a belt at it (+1 for doing it yourself!) and see if it hits on all six.

I'm not familiar with the chip key setup on the R50s, but I would see if there's an obvious screw or battery compartment on the dongle. Might just need a coin cell battery swapped out.

Looks pretty straight, at least! Bad paint just means you don't have to worry so much about it. I see that missing door handle, those are always fun. The forum isn't really built for hosting pictures. Better to host elsewhere and link them in. No size limit that way. Paste in the link and it auto-embeds. I've got mine on Flickr, but there's probably a better option. Let us know what you come up with for the rack! I've been designing one in my head for a while. Naturally I haven't gotten around to building the thing.

@Lock manual swapped a VQ R50. I have not heard of anyone else pulling it off, so if you want to go that way, that's who you need to talk to.

The same sensor died in mine, started faulting out whenever it got wet. When I saw the price of a new one, I decided I didn't need ABS. Looks like the price has about doubled since then, holy crap.

Well that sucks! You might get away with a little exacto knife action on that adapter plug. Splicing means you've got one less connector to give you problems, though.

Sucks about the surprise baptism, but better for it to happen in the shop than on the road!

I'm honestly not sure when ABS started in these, and whether it was a trim thing or a federal thing. The part numbers for the ABS valve block go back to '90, but it's not in the '90 manual. If yours has it, the valve block is under the truck, on the inside of the passenger's side frame rail, sorta under the passenger's seat area IIRC. Should be an aluminum casting with a bleeder, an electrical plug, and two brake lines going into it. The control computer for mine was under the driver's seat, but IIRC '92 (and earlier?) had it under the stereo. The sensor reads from the pinion flange on the rear axle. If yours doesn't have it, you're not missing much. All it does is release the rear brakes if it sees them lock up. There's no pulse action, no pump, no improved stopping distance. It's just trying to stop the rear end from stepping out and potentially rolling the truck. I guess if road conditions are bad enough to allow the rear brakes to lock, and the driver doesn't know to pump the pedal to regain control, then it's safer to nerf the rears, keep it straight, and take the hit in the crumple zone.

I haven't heard much good about aftermarket distributors, so if they'll sell it separate from the engine, that would be a good thing to have on the shelf. If the fuel tank doesn't smell like something died in it, consider the fuel pump/level sender assembly as well. There's an access plate in the floor above it, so you don't have to drop the tank. Round-dash headlight and wiper stalks will not work on a square-dash column without extensive screwing around. (I looked into this for mine, because I've got two sets of round dash switches in my stash, and decided it would require more butchery than I wanted to get into.) A square-dash cruise control headlight stalk should fit a square-dash non-cruise truck just fine. It'll just have a second plug that doesn't go to anything. It's possible to add intermittent wipers if yours doesn't have them. IIRC the amp is the brown box on top of the wiper motor. There's probably a writeup for the swap on Infamous Nissan that'll tell you what all you need. Are you missing any clips? Fasteners? I grab any hardware I take off, plus whatever is left around loose. The metal clips for the plugs in the engine bay are easy to lose, might as well grab a few of those with the injectors. Might be worth grabbing some spare relays, too. I paid $2 each (about ten years ago!) for a pair of factory blue relays, which have been running my headlights since. Tail lights are surprisingly expensive for these. One of mine has a small crack in it, so I'd be on the lookout for those. And yeah, if you find a front door arm rest that isn't cracked like a dry lake bed, grab that SOB. Make sure you know how the yard operates (and charges!) before you start pulling things apart. Some yards may not want you to break up what they consider an assembly. (Might not want to sell a door handle, if they think they can sell the whole door.) One yard I went to wanted to charge me for a whole steering column, when all I needed was the headlight switch. Hopefully yours is less uptight.

Oil consumption is unfortunately common with the early VQs. My dad had a similar experience with his '03. I have read a lot of speculation as to what causes it, but I don't think I've ever seen a smoking gun, or a "this fixed it" story. My dad had a PCV put on his, which didn't help. The local mechanic didn't want to tear into it. Synthetic oil made the smoke on hot starts a little less visible, but didn't change the rate of consumption. He ended up selling it to a guy who had an engine from a wrecked one. A lot changed across the early years of the VQ, and between platforms, so your list of possible donors is quite short. I remember someone laying out which years were compatible, but naturally I can't remember enough about that thread to find it again. I think '03/'04 R50 are the same, but do your research. P0021 means the computer lost control of one of the cam phasers. The cam phasers are actuated by oil pressure, so yeah, that makes sense. The source of the coolant leak might be more obvious from underneath. I would also check for leaks at the coolant crossover pipe (between the heads, at the back). Might need a mirror on a stick for that one.

Sure, but generally it's easier if you tell us what's wrong with it!

That's a weird one. Having to start it with carb cleaner makes me think it's not getting much fuel. Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key? Did you replace the crank sensor (on the back) or the cam sensor (in the distributor)? If it was the cam sensor, you'll need to set the ignition timing. The crank sensor is only there for misfire detection, so that shouldn't be able to make it run weird. Check that no wiring got pinched between the engine and trans when you bolted them back together. Any OBD codes?

LOL yeah, that could be it. Five easy ones to really make the tricky one stand out. My beef with #6 comes mostly from trying to get a compression tester into that hole.

The fuel smell is interesting. Might just be because there's fuel in the intake manifold. Just for grins, pull that vac line back off, and cycle the key a few times (to the run position, wait for the fuel pump to stop, then turn it back off). That should remove any doubt about whether the reg is leaking. I could swear I'd found an injector leak test in the manual before, but I'm not seeing it now. Unfortunately there's no test port for a fuel pressure gauge, so you'll have to tee one in. Release the fuel pressure first (fuel pump fuse out, run the engine until it stalls, crank a couple times to be sure) so you don't spray gas from hell to breakfast when you open the system. Fuel pressure should be around 34 psi at idle with the vac line to the reg connected, 43 with it disconnected. Then shut it off and see how fast the needle falls. I've seen a couple of sources quote 10 PSI in ten seconds as the cutoff, but I'm not sure where they got that number. With that said, if one injector was leaking, I would expect one black plug. I would not expect six bad injectors, unless the last guy replaced all six with the cheap crap ones. Six black plugs has me thinking the computer is injecting that much fuel based on bad info, which brings me back to ground you've already covered. I know you've already done the coolant temp sensor, but I would go through the troubleshooting in the manual for that sensor/circuit anyway. Make sure the sensor is in spec, and make sure there isn't a wiring issue between it and the computer. Rule it out right proper. I'm not quite following here. Hard starting, extended cranking? Does it start more easily when it's warm? Might be worth throwing a new connector at it, on the off chance. Mine had a loose MAF connector, and surged/stalled at warm idle, especially stopped with the transmission in gear. I couldn't make it act up by jiggling the connector, but when it was acting up, jiggling it usually cleared it up. It's been fine since I replaced the connector (Rockauto had a replacement pigtail for it). Your symptoms don't sound like what mine was doing, though it sounds like it can manifest differently in some cases (see Precise1's second post in the thread linked below). There was a plug-in harness with a ground lug to fix this issue. My donor car had one. I swapped it into mine, and to my surprise it ran like absolute crap until I took it back out. I still have no idea why. Possibly the loose connector fit worse in the repair harness than it did on the sensor itself? I decided I didn't need to poke that bear.

Good to see I'm not the only one exploring random rabbit holes. Your conclusion sounds reasonable to me. And yeah, I don't see why ATF wouldn't work. That's what the Tremec T-5 in my dad's hot rod takes.