Slartibartfast

2001 is an R50. The WD21 ended in '95 in the US. The question is whether you've got the VG33 (3.3l) or VQ35 (3.5l). Looks like there are two switches on the brake pedal. One for the brake lights, one for the cruise control (which Nissan calls ASCD for some reason). If the R50 pedal assembly is built like the WD21, there's a little rubber plug that bumps against the end of the switch, until it cracks and falls out, and causes the switch to think the brakes are always pressed. Check for that before assuming it's the switch. There's a troubleshooting section for the cruise control in the EL section of the service manual, which you can download for free from Nicoclub. There's an '01 and an '01.5 manual, depending on whether you've got a VG or a VQ. Cutting the wires at the pumps will not do what you want it to. The front pump is ground-switched (one side of the motor gets fused power, the other side runs through the switch, then to ground), so grounding it at the pump would cause it to run constantly. The two pumps do not share a fuse with each other, though they do share fuses with their respective wiper motors--so if the wipers work, then you know the fuses are OK. If the front wipers work, then you know the ground points for the pumps are OK, because those circuits share the same two ground points. I would check the pumps first. Unplug them, see if the plugs are corroded, see you've got power and ground at the plugs (while someone holds the washer button). Power the pumps directly with jumpers or a drill battery to see if they go. I would not be surprised if the pumps were seized up, especially if the truck sat for a while (or if the previous owner just didn't use them). "Wiper and washer" (also in the EL section) has the circuit diagrams for the pumps and wipers. Those diagrams and a voltmeter should be enough to track down where the problem is.

Never fun when it goes back together and still doesn't work. I'm guessing you've got a cracked coolant line or a loose block drain or something up above the pan, and it's running down. I don't know the VQ, so I don't know what the most likely culprit would be, but I'd start the search with anything coolant-related that you've touched recently, that's above where you're seeing the drips. Clean/dry the area if you're having a hard time seeing what's new and what isn't. But if it's a steady drip, it should show itself pretty quick, unless it's right proper buried. The no-start and clicking really does sound like the battery to me. If it's resting at 11.5, then it's right proper flat. Are you sure the other battery is good? A clapped battery can show good voltage, but fall on its face when loaded. Do you have a jumper pack, or another vehicle that you can jump it from? While you're in there, make sure your terminals are tight and clean, and check that you didn't remove an engine ground and forget to put it back on.

The '90 manual is a free download from cardiagn.com. Most of it is the same as the '94/'95 manual on Nico, but there are enough stupid little differences to bother getting the right one.

Well that's easy, then!

Is the wiper switch on? That also locks out the popper. If there's nothing obvious, check at the actuator, see if it's missing power, or if it's missing ground, to see which side of the circuit needs chasing. If it's missing power, verify +12v on the light green wire at the switch, verify that the switch works, verify light green/red at the wiper switch has power when the switch is pressed, verify power's getting through the wiper switch to green, and so on, back to the actuator. If it's missing ground, there's much less on that side of the circuit. Just the wiper motor interlock and a couple of body grounds. The whole diagram's on BF-11 of the '90 manual, have a look at that as you're going through it so you can see what connects where.

Oddly the rear window hatch popper isn't on a fuse, it's on a circuit breaker. It shares that breaker with the ignition relay, so if that was out, you'd have bigger issues. The wiper motor has to be present (and in the correct position) for the hatch popper to work. There's a switch in the wiper motor that prevents you from opening the window when the wiper is in the way. It seems to only hit that switch every other swipe for some reason, so just because the wiper is down doesn't mean it's "home." I've run into this a few times on mine (the wiper's down but the glass won't pop), and I've learned to turn off the wiper, let if find "home," and then turn off the ignition. Of course that doesn't help you now. The wiring diagram for the hatch popper is in the BF section, for some reason. Looks like you could just jumper from green/white to black at the wiper motor plug to bypass the wiper position switch.

I'm a little confused on which fuse you're popping. One pops after three seconds, the other pops when the wiper returns? Or is it the same fuse? Looks like the rear wiper fuse should be second from the left, top row. EL-69 of the '90 manual shows the rear wiper wiring. ('95 had the switch on the stalk, so the '95 diagram is different.) You've already checked the first thing I'd check. At this point I'd pull the driver's side cargo area trim panel and see if there's anything obviously wrong with the wiring, the wiper amp, or the relay, and pull the trim on the hatch and check the wiring for the motor and its switches. Could be the hatch switch for the dome light was acting up as they do and someone cut the wrong wire, or maybe someone got really lost while installing a trailer harness. If nothing jumps out, I'd unplug the motor and see if it still pops the fuse.

Sounds like a conrod planning a vacation. The VQ is known for burning oil, so yeah, check the oil level first. Hopefully it's not that. If it's got oil, and the oil pressure light isn't on, check the aircon pump. Aircon off, blower off, see if the awful noise suddenly stops.

Figures it's different from US spec. I looked up the wiring for a WD21, which has solid-color wires, but naturally not the same solid colors. Good to hear you figured it out in the end. And yes, not surprising that the trans computer ain't happy with something else controlling the gearbox.

According to AT-40 of the '96 manual, solenoid A is blue with a white stripe, B is blue/red, torque converter clutch is green/orange, overrun clutch solenoid is blue/black, line pressure solenoid is green/yellow. If your wire colors don't line up with this, drop the pan and follow the wires. AT-34 shows which solenoid is which on the valve body. All solenoids are switched on the + side. These folks have a rail shifter for the RE4R01A. Not sure if you're looking for a kit or rolling your own, but it might help to see how they've done it.

Any chance of importing one from Japan? I haven't looked into it, don't know if the JDM R50s had carriers either, but it might be cheaper than shipping one from the US, if your heart's set on an OE carrier. Agreed that it would be cheaper and easier to make something yourself, though. I'll bet you could make something similar to the Coastal bumper for cheaper than you could import the OE carrier, and have a much more solid setup in the end--assuming that's what you're after. Might be worth seeing if there's a similar kit available in your area, either for the R50, or for a platform of similar (or larger) width that you could adapt to fit. Or you could find a used bumper/carrier setup from something else that you could modify to fit rather than building from scratch.

Looks like you're correct on that part number. Nissanpartsdeal shows two listings for an '01, but one is listed up to '08, suggesting that's the later style. 13224-AD200 (replaced by 13224-AD20A) does not cross to later years, suggesting it's the one you're after. Both listings have pictures of bolts, though I'm not sure how far I trust the pictures. They look about the same to me. Also used, which is odd. The -AD200 bolts are more expensive than the later -AL601 bolts, which I guess makes some sense with them being one-year-only--but good lord, $8.60 each when you need twenty of them is some BS, especially when the grommets cost about the same. Amayama's got them cheaper, but probably still more than you were hoping to pay for a handful of bolts. I guess you could order one, confirm it fits, measure it, and then try and find something that'll work from some other make/model. Off-the-shelf bolts with spacers cut from tubing (or maybe a standard-length threaded standoff?) would probably do fine. Just gotta match the original dimensions so the sleeve fits in the grommets, and doesn't stop the bolt before the valve cover gaskets are adequately compressed.

Eight flashes, that's weird. Must be a different computer for the diesels, and sadly I have not found a service manual for anything on the diesel trucks other than the engine itself. Looking through the codes, I don't immediately see two I'd expect to be absent on a diesel. Again, given you know something's not working with the tach signal, I'd chase that first.

When injector A is hooked up, can you see it spraying fuel? Sounds like it might be stuck open/flooding the engine. JamesRich carb'd his and seemed pleased with it. He found an HEI dizzy for it, too. No idea if those parts are still available.

You're well out of my depth here--I don't think I've ever seen a Nissan diesel in person, much less a modded one. However, if it's got the same RE4R01A four-speed that we got up here, I would expect it to have similar self-diagnostics. If it's going into limp mode, that should mean it's got a code stored. The WD21 has a blinky-lights diagnostic system for the trans. If it's in limp mode, turn the ignition off, and on again, and it'll flash the "power" light (or the light in the E-AT switch, for round-dash) to tell you what it was upset about. IIRC you can also jumper a couple of wires under the dash to trigger the self-test. But (assuming models changed in Australia at the same time as they did up here,) it sounds like you've got an R50. The R50 retained the blinky-lights OBD, but hid it behind a stupid Konami code. Start halfway down page 42 of this section of the '96 manual (where it says "SELF-DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE, no tools.") There's a little dance to do with the ignition switch, the shifter, the overdrive switch, and the accelerator, and then you have to match the flashing overdrive light to one or more of the various possible codes. I recommend recording the overdrive light with your phone so you can play it back without having to do the dance again. Either way, if you can make it spit a code, then you'll know what to chase down next. If it's not getting a tach signal, I'd expect it to code for that, though I don't know why it would've taken it a month to notice that. And obviously if yours has OBDII (not sure when that came out down under, or whether yours still has it given you're running an engine swap and manual pump), it should throw codes there too, and with a much less stupid interface. Good luck!

I haven't worked with the ATX14A, but I'm seeing a manual shift lever and no motor. Looks like a TX10A to me. Here's an ATX14A for comparison, though it's in the US. The Auto setting should be 2WD until it notices wheel slip, at which point it applies the clutches to send power forward. If it's properly stuck in 4WD, then, yeah, something ain't right inside. I think your mechanic has the right idea with throwing a used one at it, assuming you can find one.

Easy enough to check if it's in 4HI. Lock the hubs, jack up one front corner, see if the wheel spins freely. If it does, it's not in 4WD. If it doesn't, it's in 2WD. You might have to do this with the engine running, I'm not sure if the auto transfer stays locked in when it's not powered up. AFAIK the engagement of the 4WD is done entirely by the clutches in that box, and the motor is just for shifting between high and low range, so if it is stuck in 4x, that may have nothing to do with the motor. There is a self-diagnostic procedure in the service manual to see what the warning light means, and it's a blinky-lights setup, so you don't need a scanner. That'll at least tell you what the computer is upset about. The manuals are free at Nicoclub. It starts on TF-63 of the '03 manual. How's the fluid look?

I'm not sure what you mean by "no pressure is staying." Is it leaking somewhere? Squishy brakes? No brakes at all? Did you adjust the rod from the booster so it goes the right depth into the master? Bench bleed the master? Sounds like your calipers are the right way up. If they're installed with the bleeders down, then you won't be able to get the air out of the caliper, which was the cause of ASMBLYLINE's trouble. Fairly common mistake. ABS is not a load sensing valve, and there is no load sensing valve on these. Chat GPT doesn't know crap. The ABS valve has a bleeder on it, have you bled there? An ABS unit with air in it, or a dump valve stuck open, could nerf the rear circuit, but the fronts should still work. The front brakes are not controlled by that ABS valve. The ABS light means it's got an ABS code. There's a procedure in the service manual to jumper a couple pins in a plug under the dash and count the flickers, and that'll tell you what the ABS computer thinks is wrong. It may not be particularly helpful, but it's a place to start. BR section, download the manual from Nicoclub. It's a bit fiddly. I recommend recording the ABS light flickering with your phone so you can play it back and figure out what it's trying to tell you. I had a hell of a time with my rear brakes several years ago. I bled it all kinds of ways and got nowhere. Then I blew out the rear line from the res to the rear flex line with compressed air and went down it with a pressure gauge, connecting it at each fitting, trying to find where I was losing pressure. I can only assume there was a gob of goo trapping an air bubble somewhere, and the compressed air got it, because I never found a problem, and it worked fine again afterwards.

Nissanpartsdeal shows 37126-C9425, replaced by 37126-VB925. The 4WD diagram shows the same thing for the rear shaft. I checked for 2WD pickup, on the off chance they had some weird smaller version, and it shows the same joint. You might be able to find a listing for one of those PNs that has dimensions to check against what's in it.

Here you go, EF&EC 88 and 89 from the '87 manual. Hopefully that helps!

Do you feel/hear the belt jumping? Unless there's debris between the belt and the crank sprocket, I doubt it's actually slipping. I've turned a VG over on a stand with the belt barely tensioned at all, without issue. And if it was loose enough to slip, I doubt it would be polite enough to only slip a single tooth at a time. Are you looking at the paint marks on the belt? Those marks are for inital setup only, and they are not meant to line up again afterwards. I don't remember offhand how many teeth are on the belt, but I suspect it would have to go around quite a few times before the paint marks lined up with the sprocket dimples again. The important measurement is the tooth count between the cam and crank dimples. If you're at 40 between cam dimples, 43 between the driver's cam and the crank, and you turn the crankshaft two full revolutions, and you're still at 40 and 43, then you're golden.

Hmm. Sounds like they "improved" something since I bought them, though that was long enough ago that I don't remember for sure what mine looked like. How thick are those gaskets, at the rubber rings? I have a set of VG33 intake gaskets in my pile, I can measure those and compare. I don't suppose you've got the original gaskets still kicking around? Unless the surfaces are damaged, which it doesn't look like they are, or the bolts were loose, I doubt torquing the piss out of them is gonna help. Did you bolt down the intake using the torque sequence in the service manual? Maybe it was sitting a little cockeyed.

Yeah, if that bolt don't fit, you got the wrong shi... gaskets. I pulled up Rockauto's listing for a '92. Sure enough, they have no idea that there are different gaskets for the two engines, because they've got a bunch of the same parts listed for VG30 and VG33 applications. The Ajusa and Victor Reinz gaskets aren't built the same as either of the factory gasket types, so I'm not sure which one they're meant to fit. The Mahle/Clevite MS16365A are clearly stamped-steel VG33 gaskets, not what you want. The gaskets that look correct to me are the FEL-PRO MS922704, MAHLE / CLEVITE MS15362W, and APEX AMS5170. I believe I used the Fel-Pro set on mine.

What were they trying to do, carb swap it? Gotta love PO hacks. This video (or a listing for a used pump assembly) might help you figure out what it was supposed to look like.

I think you may have the wrong gaskets. VG30 intake gaskets have the rubber rings around the ports. VG33 gaskets are thin stamped steel. (The VG33 intake is slightly wider for some reason.) Aftermarket may be built a little different, but they should be the same thickness as the ones you originally removed. I made the same mistake on mine once, because Rockauto listed the wrong parts and I didn't know any better, and I got hellacious vacuum leaks, probably because the intake got lower but the EGR tube didn't get shorter, so it was holding the plenum up at an angle. Did the bolt that holds the middle of the upper timing cover to the lower intake not line up properly? That was my first indication that I had the wrong parts. Well, that and the EGR tube not wanting to line up.