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gamellott

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Everything posted by gamellott

  1. @Slartibartfast I had a 95' D21 years ago that I was fanatical about turning the screws to the left until they clicked and then screwed them back in place. 12 years ago, that thing was in pristine condition. A lot, I would wager most, of the people do not know how to preserve plastic screw receptacles, as well as sheet metal screws. It's been a while, but the kickplates are not at all easy to take out without F-ing the screws up too. Not to be racist, but you must be ginger taking those out I'm not tall. Some would consider calling me under-average height. I have never hit my knee(s) on the column crash pad unless the seat was pushed all the way up for whatever random reason. All of the parts are in that I can get for the rear end and I'll follow up with any interesting results. Should be this weekend... ish... maybe... I have to get my motorcycle to get back on the road as well now that the weather is getting nicer.... and gas is still espensive...
  2. Thanks, I might have to hit you up on that if it proves to be terminal. It might take me a while to get there and figure out if I really need a replacement or not, as it's not exactly anywhere on my priority list.
  3. I really don't think it's the amp. If I put it in the intermittent position, and I gently tap it, it works once and every single time I tap it. My money is on that it's a weak spring or dirty contact internal to the switch. Again, If I could buy new, I would. I would also buy a new column crash pad since mine is being held in place by gravity. Someone over the years, snapped the screw posts that hold it together. I have had a white fungus grow inside this thing when it sits for an extended period of time in the moist winters we have here, and I think that may have fouled up the contacts. This fungus has appeared three time since I have owned it. Once when I was active duty and out to sea over the winter, and the past 2 winters when I developed the head gasket leak and most recently the rear brakes/axle @!*% themselves. What's really intriguing is that the individual dash lights would come on and off randomly after I got the heads fixed. It took a while, but they finally all stayed on after a week or so of driving it.
  4. Ya, I just confirmed it. The light comes on initially when I turn on the ignition for a second or two and then it turns off. That part, at least for now, appears to be fixed, where it was consistently lit before. I think that it recognizes that the flow of fluid is impeded and it then throws a fault. The brakes got so hot from them being seized that any coating on them was cooked off and now they'll likely be covered in rust in short order... good enough reason to give them a paintjob now... And now that I'm going to take axles out to replace the bearings and seals... another great time to do that. I just need to find something to cap off the lines for a short time...
  5. Ya, mine has been flaky for a couple of years, now it doesn't work at all in the intermittent position (When it's just sitting there). I thought it was the module under the hood, but this is clearly the switch. When I merely tap it, it works for just the one wipe.... and every single time I tap it. If I could get a new one, I would... or... at least I tried... Guess I'll have to try to take it apart and see if I can do anything to make it work... Or find something on eBay or a salvage yard... or just say F-it and let it fall apart like the 30yo bitch that she is... She is a discouraging one... maybe I'll name her "Amanda"?
  6. I just got notification that they weren't able to ship the part because they didn't actually have it... go figure....
  7. Just a thought for discussion... I have been battling my rear brakes seizing for a couple of years now. I have noticed a trend that the rear ABS light comes on more frequently when it's closer to the time that they are seized and require service. They were recently torn down and cleaned up and It was suggested that I take a different approach and actually put grease around the seals, rather than simple brake fluid to prevent the rust from building up. Time will tell on this fix. So, My thought... it appears as though it's throwing a fault because it's not sensing the ability to pump fluid to the rear brakes. Am I wrong, or would you think that it's a symptom of 30yo electronics becoming glitchy and close to failure? I'm away from the rig right now so I cannot confirm, but after the rebuild, the ABS light turned off as usual, where before the rebuild, it would stay on religiously.
  8. Welp, I ordered it and paid through PayPal. Shipping was a bit much, but if that's the only place that I can get it from, that's the only place I can get it from... Overall cost was $150 CAD. With the exchange rate, that should come up to about $120.... We shall see how this pans out.
  9. When I got my 92, the lock cylinder for the drivers side door was seized and not functional. I replaced it first thing. Spinning is more than likely the plastic clip that holds the rod in place has broken and fallen off within the door. However, if the lock cylinder is broken as mine was, the parts are still available through the dealer. The locks are a little bit of a challenge to remove, and requires the inside door panel to be removed and requires some simple tools. Considering the age, you should take care to pry off the inner skin. The fiberboard that it is made with is likely deteriorated and the plastic rivets easily pull through if you're not using the correct body panel pry tool (A large screwdriver is not the correct tool). There is a clip that holds the lock cylinder in place and can be removed by tapping it out with a punch or long screwdriver. It's probably covered in some of the various service manuals out there, I don't have one handy to verify. Take care of sharp sheet metal edges. It's been a while since I did this, but I even think I used a pair of channel locks in order to remove it. Lock cylinders can be found here or at the parts source of your choice, but likely, only via a dealer of some kind: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1992-nissan-pathfinder/miscellaneous/key_set_blank_key.html?Diagram=998_A01&pnc=80600. I did not see them on Rock Auto. As is, it's becoming increasingly difficult to get replacement parts for these... my biggest gripe... It is what it is
  10. @Slartibartfast I think I need to come visit and borrow your custom made socket for this job.
  11. I've already read in a couple of the threads that the headlight switch is very prone to failure. This morning, I fired off the Pathfinder for the first time since I got the brakes fixed (Still waiting on replacement parking brake shoes before I tear into the seals and bearings). I made it a couple of feet out past the driveway, and I noticed I forgot my coffee. Turned around and got it. When I was walking back to the truck, I observed that one of my headlights is out. Both high and low beam. I thought, that's unusual, it's usually only one. When I got back in for my commute, the hi-beam indicator now remains lit regardless of the position it is in, and the one working light does toggle between the filaments.... I haven't done any actual troubleshooting past what I have described above and I looked at the bulb itself. It looks fine.... so.... Switch eh? At least these seem to be readily available...
  12. I purchased my cables through Amayama Trading Co. in Japan.
  13. Just a quick question, I am in search of a new wiper switch PN 25260-03G01. It wasn't used on a Japanese model and not available through Amayama Trading Co. Did a search for that alone, and it appears to be available at a place in Alberta, Canada called Nissan Parts Online https://www.nissanparts.online/. They seem to have a lot of parts available where they're unobtainium anywhere else. Has anyone dealt with these people. The website seems secure, I just don't want to throw some money at a hack and be out of pocket. Thanks Geoff
  14. Just gonna say, I spent way too much time trying to overthink the parts catalog at Rock Auto regarding the inner/outer Disk/Drum differences and the different verbiage between manufacturers". I think the best way to figure it out and not be confused is to stick to one manufacturer. That being said, I believe the online catalog at Rock Auto is superior to others. And no, I am not getting paid to say this The other problem I found on other parts stores, in this instance, is that they lacked descriptions on what exactly they fit. This reminds me of the parts documentation for Subaru's in the 90's when I was working for the "Parts" store. Specifically brakes... because that's all that we ever sold for Subaru's back then Anyway, All of the parts are on order and I'll get to it when I make time and when it's warmer and dryer here. @hawairish@SlartibartfastI have watched a few videos of people doing this exact job. Every single one of them has them taking the nut off and on with a steel drift. Using that practice, I have no idea how anyone would ever achieve the desired torque. If it's under-torqued, and tight, I don't know that it would actually be that much of a problem especially with the locking tab preventing it from backing off. But then, the torque is probably serving some function.... What, I'm not sure in this case. It's not like it's a head bolt.
  15. @hawairishThanks for the info. This gets me better prepared to do this job. Because this is going to be such a PITA, I might delay it for a while until I can find or fabricate a suitable tool. I was thinking some kind of hook spanner would work, but if it's recessed, that's not an option. Maybe some kind of supported pin wrench with a crow's foot on it? I did this job once on my 95' D21 with the single race, and I have clearly forgot how difficult it was. I had to take the axles to a shop to get the bearings and seals swapped out at the time because I didn't have a press.
  16. @Slartibartfast Ya, that torque spec is crazy. I have been doing some research on how one would do this and I believe an OTC 7463 Gland Nut Wrench might just do the trick if the nut is not recessed. I have also seen a few shock spanners that might work as well... Worst case, Whack it with a hammer and punch. They couldn't simply make an octagonal nut with recesses in it. Ya need a special tool.... If there is a right one out there, what is it? After all, 30 years and 300Kmiles, and now it's leaking (Or I'm noticing it). There is a little bit of oil in the parking brake drum... When I first got this thing 8 years ago, it was leaking from almost every single seal, but it ran good. I've slowly been knocking out replacing the seals on everything, from the easiest to the hardest.... Next... the transmission and rear main, because they're leaking bad!!! The oil spots on the clean concrete are both dirty and clean oil
  17. @hawairish There is a distinct difference in the catalog for the bearings and seals for my 92' between disk and drum. The Bearing, if the pictures are correct, have 2 tapered bearings smashed into a common race, which makes me think there has to be some kind of adjustment in order to get the proper load that you're not going to have on a pressed collar and shim like the ones in a single bearing/race setup. I think I've nuked it out in my head enough, I'll just take it all apart and see what I see. I haven't seen enough good documentation on this non-garden-variety animal.... Edit/update... I do have this thing called a Chilton service manual and the answer was in it. Should have been my first action rather than try to search for a Youtube video The manual also breaks it down between Disk and Drum. TaaaaDaaaa
  18. It's been a while since I've been here, but work continues on the antique... I've replaced the parking brake cables (Got the directly from Japan) and I'm waiting on parts to fix the calipers (One of the boots on the piston was torn and not re-usable). I noticed that one of the rear wheel seals is seeping (After 300Kmiles, you would be too). I know if I had drum brakes, I would have a bearing that is pressed onto the axle just like the one on the D21 (There is a Youtube video on it). From what I can see, the disk brake bearing is radically different and it appears as though the bearing does not have a press on retaining collar. Do these bearings press on at all? Inquiring minds need to know... It's on jack stands right now.... Maybe I'll just try to find out for myself.... But if someone wants to chime in with their experience, that would be awesome!!
  19. @Steve_RI I believe the hardpoint on the cable ends is the adapter/brake shoe end. The attachment end seems to be universal. No one seems to carry the correct "Shoe End" that I/we may need to have because we don't have the universally accepted rear drum brakes..... Rear Drum actually seems to be the norm, not the exception. The few cables that the aftermarket has shown to me, have been crap. Acceptable as a working part, but still crap.... but still doesn't work for my application. Going forward with my Amayama purchase.... Hopefully, it's the correct one.
  20. @Slartibartfast I did find those part numbers but not that description. I did a lot of searching and I believe I have found the correct OEM PN: 36531-42G16 which superseded the 42G11 pn. I'm not finding it at the normal places and it appears as though the Rona is causing shipping problems.... Found one on ebay.... and on Amayama.... Direct shipping from Japan The hard part was just finding the correct part... Just wish it had pictures of the part to do a visual comparison...
  21. I have had this problem for years and I was unable to find the right cable then, and I'm revisiting it now. The left rear cable is seized and it needs to be replaced if I ever want to use that feature ever again. The problem is that what is on the vehicle is completely different than what parts are available for this year. I figured since I wasn't the only owner, maybe someone swapped out the axle or something in the last 30 years. I have done a search through the years, and the one for a 96 appears similar on the backing plate mount, but it's not quite an exact fitment to the backing plate that I have. It's similar, but not the same. The R50 cable is clocked at 90 degrees from the mounting bolts, and mine appears to be at about a 45 degree to the mounting bolts. Does anyone know of identifying features that I might be able to use to clue me in to what it may have come out of, or is there someone in the Pacific Northwest that could/would make custom brake cables? I have put on new pads and rotors on the rear with no fitment issues and all of the parts appear to be the same between 88-95... I'm kinda stumped on where to go from here if I want to actually fix this problem.
  22. Ya, fuel efficiency is not particularly great, but it can be decent. I did experience 21 Mpg on this thing once, but that was moderately slower driving and not fast highway speed. I don't know if the gearing is different between regions, but these things here in the US, at the time, were geared to have an optimum speed of 55 Mph. The highway speeds are significantly higher now than what they were 30 years ago and the higher RPM is going to consume fuel at a higher rate. Nominally, I get about 17 Mpg in this rig. It's not great, but considering I keep it for about one purpose, I'll take it.
  23. When I picked up my 92 with 285Kmiles on it, it leaked from every single seal. Look for leaks, fix them if you're capable of doing it and keep an eye on the fluids. I also noticed within the past year, I was consuming coolant/antifreeze. It turned out to be a leaking head gasket into one of the cylinders. With anything as old as these are getting, you're going to be looking at long haul issues like leaks and head gaskets.... etc... Cam Belt/Timing Belt being changed on a regular basis is a necessity. Whenever that's done, it's also a good idea to replace the water pump and belt tensioner Aside from age issues, they're pretty solid. The one big problem I have observed, some parts are no longer available anywhere unless you go to a salvage yard. You may have better luck on your side of the pond though. Good Luck!!
  24. Thule makes pedestals and cross bars that will work. They're not cheap though.
  25. Provided they're still available, the factory replacement voltage regulator is not a solder job. In the thread, I believe, that was a work around. However, considering the age of the vehicle and parts availability, that might be the only way.. When I had the fuel gauge failure, it also took out the temp gauge as well. Once I replaced the regulator, they both worked. This was also 7 years ago... 24866-54A00 is the Part number I bought. There are 2 different kinds if my memory is correct. It appears as though you can still find them in places. You can contact the dealer to see which one you need based on your VIN https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-regulator-assembly-2486654a00

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