gamellott

I imagine this thread was started somewhere else, but I can't seem to find it. Maybe I'm not typing in the correct key words?? So, As the title states, I'm looking for something resembling a rebuild kit for the factory hubs on an early 90's Pathfinder/pickup. I managed to find an older set where the center piece is actually made of Aluminum!! As I recall, somewhere along the line, they shifted to a plastic center hub/switch, which if you see one nowadays, they look like crap and are usually falling apart. Contrary to whatever anyone has said about these, they can be disassembled without breaking them and with a little TLC, I imagine I can refurbish them. The bearings are good, all I really want to do is get them cleaned up, put in a new seal on the center "Lock/Free" switch and put them to good use. Anyone have any experience finding the seal?

Just gonna say, now that everything is tightened back up on the front end, it drives SO Much better and I had to re-learn how not to compensate for the pulling when I hit the brakes Its AMAZING!!

I haven't seen anything quite like what you linked in over 20 years when I had something like that holding the louvers onto my Datsun 210. Good Idea, but it doesn't appear to come in a 14mm size. Thanks for the info. More ideas later I'm not overly fond of the helicoil either. I think I'll throw the timesert in when I go to repair it. The kit, on Amazon, is $116. Not thrilled to have to get it, but I will when it comes time Just hope it isn't on the side of the road while I'm doing it So far I have been lucky with all of my vehicles, for the mostpart, I have not been stranded anywhere except home

Zenit, I bought my 92 about 3 years ago. It had 283Kmiles on it then and it now has 303K. Still my daily driver. It was leaking fluid from every orifice and I have, since, replaced all of the seals except the rear wheel, Front transmission and Rear Main. Fluid loss is negligible now. The question is if you are mechanically competent enough or willing to learn how to fix issues that Will arise? Really, as long as the engine runs and doesn't consume too much oil and mechanically functions well, there isn't an issue with purchasing one that's 20 years old and has 200K+ miles. Getting one that has been, fairly well, taken care of is a starting point. Mine has dings in the body and cracks in the plastic, but Most everything works. It has been worth the $2300 we paid for it and we don't have a vehicle payment to boot As far as longevity, it all depends on how well they have been taken care of. To my knowledge, the engine in mine is original and not likely rebuilt. It Also had belts that still had the Nissan logo on them, which I doubt were original. I suspect someone was taking really good care of the one I got. It's cantankerous, but it's still a good running machine

I think the "sleve" you mention would be a Helicoil, or a Timesert which would use the same size bolt. I don't know if either of those options are good because it's such a large bolt and it's under a pretty heavy strain at times. Re-tapping to a larger size probably isn't a great idea because the hole in the upper control arm Just fits the bolt, like a snug washer.

EEEeeeeyak!! That's a Mess!!

Long story short, someone who did an alignment on it, not too long ago, cross threaded one of the Upper Control Arm mounting bolts and now it's seriously galled. Has anyone put a Helicoil into that? The pulling symptom was weird. It appeared to point the truck to the right and the steering wheel would pull to the left. I've been living with this pulling for several months now and I finally tore apart all of the brakes, rebuilt the calipers and bled the @!*% out of the system with no change. I took a closer look, thinking it was something chassis related, like bushings. It turns out that the driver's side upper control arm rear bolt was sticking out about 1/2 inch and the forward bolt was loose. With a Lack of having a 14mm 1.50 pitch tap and die, I threw some anti-seize on the threads and forced it back in the hole with an impact hammer. I know it's going to need proper attention in the future. So.... Helicoil or Weld and tap?? Suggestions?? It does drive and track fine even though I may have lost whatever shims may have been on the rear. I might just leave it alone??

I actually saw my fuel light on the other day for the first time. I'm pretty sure that I put in closer to 18 gal when I fueled it back up.

I had an XE pickup with the factory steel wheels like this and I found that I had to trim the front end of the fender flare in order to be able to turn the wheels without rubbing the on 31s. Might be the same situation? I'm pretty sure that the fenders are different between the XE and SE Models to accommodate the difference in tire size that they came with. Something else to consider.

The 95 shouldn't have a regulator in the dash, and yes, the ones that had the regulators in the dash, does affect the fuel gauge. They will both read E/Cold (Needles Pegged to the left) if the voltage regulator was bad. I would suspect that the temp gauge, itself, is faulty. There's probably some sort of way to test it by applying a varying voltage to the gauge itself... somehow..... Or finding the pin where the needle receives it's input from and measuring the voltage or resistance from the time it's cold to the time it's hot.

In My experience on my 95 D21, I never had an issue running full synthetic aside from the price. From my previous readings on the topic, I understand that it's the sulfur in the GL5 oil that causes the excess wear on the synchronizers. Full Synthetics usually don't have the sulfur. I Haven't done that kind of fluid change for my WD21, but I'll probably go that route if I keep the animal that long Somewhere along the road, I'm going to have the transmission out and put new seals into it then and fresh fluid to boot... Till then.... Fun fun fun... You should check the service manual for the transfer case. I believe it takes Dextron II ATF. As far as causing excessive leakage because the seals shrink, No. The Seals were probably already worn and Synthetic oils are slipperier and tend to leak more. If you're only leaking a little in the first place, it's not going to be a noticeable difference. You'll have to continue to keep an eye on it, like you normally would if you know you have a leak.

Citron, Tune up was plugs, fuel, air filter and timing belt replaced immediately after I bought it. Engine timing was also adjusted. The Misfire is only at RPMs lower than 2000 and accelerating, in 3rd, 4th or 5th gear. It's normally not running that low of an rpm, but it is on occasion. That's the only consistency. I can sit and idle forward in traffic on level ground and it runs fine. I'm really wondering if this is a normal thing with these engines and Just Maybe I need to use a higher octane fuel to prevent it, it's NOT a knock like my motorcycle does running on low octane fuel. When I had the cap and rotor off, It appeared firm and It doesn't appear to have a centrifugal advance like older vehicles do which would throw the timing off. The misfire definitely goes away at higher RPM and gets good power once over 2000. If I'm light on the pedal to accelerate, it doesn't misfire. If I'm heavy on it, it will. Makes me wonder if one of the injectors could have an issue....

My 92 is the first VG30, and I have had this nuance ever since I've owned it and I've learned to just not lug the engine and accelerate. Other than that, it seems to drive fine. I've had it for 2 1/2 years. It's had a tune up and routine oil changes. Nothing significant has been done to the ignition or fuel system. Is this something that everyone else seems to experience or is there something that could be failing??

Thanks. I appreciate the info.

This is the kind of information I've been looking for. I'm more partial to the DE engine because it has a shim and bucket type valve train in addition to the boost in HP without any kind of turbo. I noted that the blocks are different between the DE and E engines because they have completely different head gaskets which is what clued me into there actually being a difference. None of this is going to happen tomorrow, so I'll start looking for a DE engine or a good donor vehicle eventually... Or maybe I'll just find a nice 300z that someone is willing to let go cheap.

There could be an issue with your brake booster killing your idle when you step on the brake. Also, If you have working AC; there is a solenoid that kicks up the idle speed when the compressor kicks on that could cause a similar issue.

I'd wonder if your brake booster has developed a bad leak. Does it return to a normal idle after you take your foot off of the brake?? Anytime you press your brakes with a vacuum brake booster, it will affect your idle some, It shouldn't almost kill it. Also, there is a solenoid that kicks the idle speed up a tad when your AC cycles. If that's not working, it could cause a similar issue.

Had a 95 D21 for 12 years, and 130k miles. Sold it, went overseas, came back and bought 92 WD21 for almost 3 years now, that now has over 300k miles. Can't tell you what's original, but it still runs like a champ and almost everything seems to be in good working order after a Lot of elbow grease and Seals.

Crickets.... I am wondering the same??

Good Afternoon!!! Yes, I'm new here and I've been brainstorming on how to give my 92 Pathy some more power without putting in a turbo or dropping a SB V8 into it. Is this frankensteined engine something that Actually can be done using existing hardware?? I've done a little research and discovered that the heads won't bolt up to my Factory VG30E. I've read in one place that this is feasible. Will the VG33 block bolt up to the factory MT and what parts do you need to frankenstein from a donor vehicle? I understand that I will be looking at donor vehicles of a 300Z for the intake and heads and some kind of Frontier/pathfinder for the block. OR... If all else fails and the Frankensteined engine isn't an option, will the VG30DE bolt up to the MT? Thoughts, Experience??? Thanks Geoff