gamellott

I didn't know there was any diagnostic for that system. Good to know. I'll see what I can find because it's clearly affecting the hydraulics on mine, even if it is minimal. I'll have to make time to work on this because it's fairly low on my priorities, but I'm getting closer to being able to work on mechanical things vice construction around the house I tend to agree with you on the connector and moisture relation, but now, as discussed, it's turning a tad different than what it was. Before, it was just the light; Now, it's a little more. I'll start tearing into it sometime..... when I make time after it kills me

The light started lighting intermittently several months ago and it seemed to be when it's wet out. I can clear the light if I turn off the ignition and turn it back on. NOW, that has changed. Under light braking, intermittently, the brake pedal will will feel like it clicks once, pedal resistance goes down and it decelerates less, like something in the hydraulics triggered something and it's braking less. With that recent change, I'm now under the better impression that it's the modulator attached to the frame. Has anyone else experienced this and what was your remedy? I don't really want to spend a crap ton of money to replace the controller, sensor and computer...

Hmmm. It's been a while since I replaced mine. I Youtubed how to get it out after trying, to no avail, to get it out without prying it past the fender. Turns out I had to unmount the idler arm to pull it out the front. Aside from that, it was pretty simple, But mine is a Manual, not an auto magical hydraulic pump.

That's why I said 90% Even then, MOST can be avoided if you're paying attention to what other people are doing around you and put yourself at a good enough distance to react That lady that got hit by a tree on the interstate in Seattle a couple of weeks ago was clearly a wrong place at the wrong time scenario.

I hold the opinion that 90% of the time No. 1 is preventable as well as long as you're not being a complete Fartwaffle when driving.

I'm pretty sure that the mirrors between the D21 and WD21 are the same, if not the same/similar dimensions. My wife has had the new vehicles and they all have larger mirrors that seem to be positioned higher which create, IMHO, HUGE blind spots in front of you, that the Pathfinder never has. I would rather sacrifice poorer visibility behind me than in front of me. I find myself moving my body around trying to see around the mirrors because I can't see what's behind them. Newer is not always better.

Oh I love the network I'm on!! Retyping this again.... I believe Champion plugs are OEM on Chrysler products. You're always better off with "Like" material/products. There are slight variances in production between manufacturers that MAY cause performance issues. Nissan puts NGK spark plugs in their vehicles and you'll get better consistency/longevity out of the OEM ignition parts than most other variants. In Theory, Yes, they should work fine. In reality, they don't always work that well. Kinda along the lines of using GL5 gear oil in the transmission in this vintage vehicle. In theory, you can use it. In reality, it's not a wise idea. But that's a whole different discussion

I wonder.... Do you know if you have a circuit breaker or a fuse for your power windows? If it's a circuit breaker, you may have finally blown it and it won't reset. If it's a fuse, it's probably finally blown. If your power windows are like mine, and there's some kind of timing circuit for the "Power Down all the way", I wonder if that, if the timing circuit is broken, could be the root cause of your issues. The power windows do draw a bit of current, but I doubt that would cause your alternator to not charge. Maybe kill your battery when it's not running, but mine are tied into the run position on the ignition, and are disconnected in any other. I have more questions than answers at this point because there are quite a bit of differences between the model years.

Looks like someone has been compensating for something

Shame. With all of the work you have had done to it recently, I would spend the money to get whatever has happened to the engine fixed.

Slartibartfast, As I stated at the end. Just more info and making the comment that you CAN move stuff around You're absolutely silly if you think I'm going to put it all back together in a wonky position aside from TDC My eyeballs are not as good as they used to be and I'm not counting past 10 in order to line up a timing belt

I used the Ultra Low profile ones that AC sells on their website. I didn't have any problems with those. Unless you're Maxing out your torsion bars so that you're riding on the upper control arms all of the time, you shouldn't have any problems. They just allow for more travel... Like maybe an inch... or maybe that's wishful thinking...

What I'm trying to say.... As the crankshaft rotates, the pistons are all in different positions. It is possible to have the crankshaft rotated so that none of the pistons will create interference for the valves to move. Rotating by hand, with the spark plugs removed, is the best way to accomplish this. Just be aware of how much and where you rotate it so you don't have your distributor 180 out. And again, don't force any movement; you may cause valve damage if you force it and can't see where things are at. Does that make sense?? As discussed by other people, you may not even want to try to rotate if you have an adequate plan/tools to prevent valve damage. Just more info

When I replaced my timing belt, I replaced the Crank seal. Maybe mine was a bit more difficult than others, but my crank pulley was seized onto the crank. I couldn't find a puller specifically for removing it and there's only a few ways to get something behind it in order to get it off. I wound up using a couple of wood chisels, hammering them in behind the pulley. It took some time, but I finally got enough clearance to pull it using a gear puller. In the whole process, I managed to goober up the pulley and opted to replace it with a new one from Nissan. The aftermarket ones I saw exuded "Cheap Garbage" and I refused to use them. As long as none of your pistons are at the top of the stroke, you should have no problem or fear of rotating your camshafts. You will have the best results when you pull the bolts with an impact. If you try to use a wrench, you'll likely spin the shaft and get nowhere. If you turn everything by hand, you should be fine. Just don't use the starter to spin to motor over when you don't have a timing belt on Once I had the belt and pulley back on, I turned over the engine by hand to make sure everything lined up right and there wasn't any slop in the belt that I overlooked when I assembled it.

More good info. Thanks guys. I spent the day, since it was nice out, doing yard work. Actually, I was slinging poo from the goats and alpaca that we have. The chores never end!!

Ok, Thanks for the heads up on the numerous hoses. Sounds like I need to plan for it to be down for more than a day since I'm sure I'm going to run into other issues. Not exactly what I was thinking when I was preparing and thinking this can't be a big deal... Sounds like I was wrong again . Thank You for your input I have no idea if this is a JDM engine or if it is actually 25 years old, I just know that the valve covers are leaking... If it's been 25 years since this has been pulled off, that'll be amazing... we'll see how the rubber crumbles I've read that the distributors wear out. Guess I can look to see if it's wobbly or whatever while I have it out.

I've read a few strings on this topic, but I didn't see anything specific for it. This is the first time that I'll be doing this and I believe that I have all of my bases covered, but I thought I would bounce it off of the experts For the VG30E, I know that I'll be doing the Valve cover gasket with grommets and the intake plenum gasket. Aside from some RTV, is there anything else that I should be aware of that usually bites you in the butt when you do this work?? Thanks!!

I need to check the other boards more frequently.... The year of your model is about the same time frame that Firestone got their nuts in a bind about tires blowing out, causing accidents. The lower tire pressure will give you a smoother ride, but it's probably not as good for the tire since it is continually flexing the sidewall. My dad had a Ford Explorer that fell under that recall, and the fix was to replace the tires and put a new sticker on the door jam which increased the recommended tire pressure. With that lesson learned, although Nissan wasn't directly affected by it, I would run no less than 30-35psi.

Yes, what RIP.88 said. Also, As mentioned before, you could have a bad ground diode in the rectifier that would kill the battery when you're not driving it. In the past month since this thread has started, that bad ground diode may have compromised your voltage regulator and other things. I Highly recommend taking it off to get bench tested. Also, a 70 amp alternator is more than adequate for most models unless you've upgraded the interior to heated seats and steering wheel and 8Tw flood lights. If that's the case, then Yes, a larger alternator would be ideal.

I have found, even at good parts stores with good parts like TRW and MOOG, that they will get whatever part that fits into the box from different manufacturers/suppliers. I went rounds trying to find a matching set of ball joints that weren't absolute garbage and of similar construction as OE. Bottom line, You don't always get what you want.... the first time around. I'm not sure who the original manufacturer of the drag link I put in, but the tow was way out of whack after I replaced it. You may have to get an alignment after you're done or maybe you can eyeball the tow as I did. But then, If you're talking about replacing the TREs, then you'll need to get the tow adjusted anyway. After replacing your ball joints, it would be a good idea to get it checked... Stuff you may already know... Just typing away and.... I'll stop now... That being said, the factory style idler arm, although wimpy, is rebuildable by simply replacing the bushings and can save you some dough. Automotive Customizers (4X4parts.com) offers an idler arm brace that's apparently pretty good to stiffen the wimpy OE one.

Maybe someone did some creative wiring. I'm not aware of there being a fuse under the steering wheel. I'm pretty sure that there isn't a fuse that would keep the starter from turning over the engine. I may be wrong.

Noooooo... There's a Pin that may or may not be attached to the carrier (Most Likely it's not because it's pretty self explanatory if you still have it) to hold it open when you're on uneven ground or moving. I can't imagine that anyone would recommend driving with the tire carrier pinned open, but I'm sure someone has done it.

So today when I was getting ready to leave work, I experienced the clicking, No start. I scratched my head, tapped my starter, pulled the ground cable off with no change. I finally had a look at the positive cable where I attempted to crimp it onto a connector some time ago. Yes, I have a crimper that big. Guess I didn't crimp it on that well, and it had pulled or worked it's way out. I pushed it back in and it fired right back up. Point to the story, the power to the ignition and everything else is fed from wires that come off of the battery connection. You could have a good enough connection to power the ignition and everything else, but you could have a poor connection to your starter. It's not all powered off of the 4 gauge cable going to the starter. Recommend checking that out.

In addition to the above, the thermostat would be worth looking at. I had one stick on a vehicle years ago. The temp gauge pegged high and shot water out of the reservoir onto the front passenger side brakes. That was a really fun stop.

But making a Big Splash is FUN!! I would kinda lean towards a combination on things like bad battery cables in conjunction with a failing alternator. No power = No Run Stay away from the puddles