gamellott

Now that I finally have a place and some time to do some minor rehab on the old girl, I was wondering if anyone knows how to remove/replace the plastic trim on the trailing edge of the rear side windows. There seems to be plenty of play, but they don't seem to want to come out. I mean, I can simply mask the crap out of it and paint it, but I would rather try to remove, clean and paint... An FSM probably has this procedure in it... OTOH, Like all of the rest of the plastic, if I touch it with any force, it's probably going to break... Anyway, Thanks in advance!!

Long story short, I broke one of the retaining clips for interior trim on the liftgate door. I've found the Nissan PN 76932-01E01, but nothing seems to be available anywhere. A quick search on the Doorman (Massive supplier of random fasteners) website found nothing. I got a hit on Amayama, but I would rather get something here in the US. Does anyone have a source for these? I'm sure I could find one at a Junk Yard a lot cheaper than one with shipping from Japan... I used to think these things were common... Guess again....

Ya, Dumb. Literally, with all of the 30yo plastic in this thing that is cracking/breaking, in many instances, I'm not going to take it apart if I don't have to It seems, based on my reading of other things, the California models do have the light and label.... probably causes cancer too...

It's sounding to me like something is preventing the gear from popping out to engage the flywheel. Unless you have underlying issues with your flywheel that needs to be addressed, I recommend biting the bullet and getting a new starter as opposed to trying to rebuild it yourself. I didn't know the interlock switch was ever illuminated Mine must have burned out long ago. To my knowledge, that switch only allows you to start the vehicle without depressing the clutch.

I took a close look at the dash and there is nothing that is labeled as a check engine. All lenses have a label next to them except the upper left lens, and I cannot make out if there is anything on that lens. All of the lower ones are labeled, except there is blank area that could have a light off to the left of the rear window defogger indication on the lower left. Could it be the unlabeled upper left lens? If so, I wonder why they labeled or didn't label it that way? The only light that comes on when I turn it on is the seatbelt reminder. Everything else works perfectly.

I have a 92' and I have never seen this elusive Check Engine Light that some people have spoken of, of this vintage, even when I did have a problem that would have illuminated one. Just trying to find out if I have one or not really. Or... is there something online that is a repository for this resource?

As far as finding the hose, I discovered it when I was changing the spark plugs and it ran like crap after the job. Same thing, found the hose cracked and I have since replaced it. Truly an obscure little hose.... But now that you know about it, you'll know where to look

From the "Read First" Section: "Power Door Locks locking or unlocking on their own Sometimes during cold weather, hot weather, or just for no reason at all, the power door locks will either pop back up after locking or stay locked without letting the lock cylinder turn and unlock the door. The mechanical assembly connecting the lock cylinder itself to the inner door lock and armatures are mated by the use of small plastic parts that wear out and then break over time." In the previous paragraph, there is no actual "Fix" discussed. Or did I do it again and miss it? A little background on mine: The drivers side lock cylinder was broken and the core had rotted out and did not work when initially purchased. When cold, the doors would periodically re-lock when trying to unlock from the passenger's side. Circa 2014, the driver's side lock cylinder was replaced with new and new key. Operation from driver's side is slow in the winter and frequently resists unlocking and frequently re-locks. I'm 98% under the impression that it's the actuator that needs service/lube/replacement or complete disconnection from the system if unserviceable. But in lieu of recent problems that didn't meet my troubleshooting experiences, What's the actual fix?

Ok, in the slight case that anyone was wondering what happened to all of this.... I bought and swapped out the switch with no changes. Knowing that there is almost nothing in the circuit aside from a switch, I looked around the wiring harness, looking for signs of mice and destruction. Nothing... I pulled the bulb that was out and then my high beam indications on the dash returned to normal. I just happened to have a spare bulb in my toolbox and popped it in. Ta-Da!!! everything is back to normal. Does anyone need a slightly used headlight switch now? So, in retrospect, I recommend pulling the bulb first if this ever happens. Nothing seems to be typical with this thing

That's a good find. Mine has over 300K miles and have had to overhaul the rear calipers on an annual basis because they seize from rust.

I recently went through the whole top end of my VG30 and I will agree that it was a giant pain. I can't imagine having to do it on some of the newer engines that really have a lot more sensors, plastic, and crap to control the engine. I have never had a real problem getting any of the spark plugs out of the heads. It's that damned vacuum line next to #6 that keeps getting knocked off and making it run rough. I credit my luck to this because it appears as though the previous owners did keep it pretty clean and appeared as though they only took it to Nissan Dealers. Belts, hoses, everything that I would have gotten at NAPA, or some other parts store, were OEM Nissan parts. Getting to the spark plugs on the drivers side is pretty much a straight shot unless you have debris, as mentioned, preventing you from getting a good bite on the plug. But ya... When I tore it down, I did find the holes filled with oil from leaking valve covers. So... the drains in mine, that I didn't know about until now, are likely blocked.

I'm ok with having to order things. It's the fact that some of the replacement parts are not available period. If someone were to make more aftermarket parts... that would be great... But I am seeing fewer and fewer of these critters on the road nowadays anyway... I'm pretty sure these things don't even create any kind of spike in the "collector" world, so there is little to no market for it.

@Slartibartfast I had a 95' D21 years ago that I was fanatical about turning the screws to the left until they clicked and then screwed them back in place. 12 years ago, that thing was in pristine condition. A lot, I would wager most, of the people do not know how to preserve plastic screw receptacles, as well as sheet metal screws. It's been a while, but the kickplates are not at all easy to take out without F-ing the screws up too. Not to be racist, but you must be ginger taking those out ? I'm not tall. Some would consider calling me under-average height. I have never hit my knee(s) on the column crash pad unless the seat was pushed all the way up for whatever random reason. All of the parts are in that I can get for the rear end and I'll follow up with any interesting results. Should be this weekend... ish... maybe... I have to get my motorcycle to get back on the road as well now that the weather is getting nicer.... and gas is still espensive...

Thanks, I might have to hit you up on that if it proves to be terminal. It might take me a while to get there and figure out if I really need a replacement or not, as it's not exactly anywhere on my priority list.

I really don't think it's the amp. If I put it in the intermittent position, and I gently tap it, it works once and every single time I tap it. My money is on that it's a weak spring or dirty contact internal to the switch. Again, If I could buy new, I would. I would also buy a new column crash pad since mine is being held in place by gravity. Someone over the years, snapped the screw posts that hold it together. I have had a white fungus grow inside this thing when it sits for an extended period of time in the moist winters we have here, and I think that may have fouled up the contacts. This fungus has appeared three time since I have owned it. Once when I was active duty and out to sea over the winter, and the past 2 winters when I developed the head gasket leak and most recently the rear brakes/axle @!*% themselves. What's really intriguing is that the individual dash lights would come on and off randomly after I got the heads fixed. It took a while, but they finally all stayed on after a week or so of driving it.

Ya, I just confirmed it. The light comes on initially when I turn on the ignition for a second or two and then it turns off. That part, at least for now, appears to be fixed, where it was consistently lit before. I think that it recognizes that the flow of fluid is impeded and it then throws a fault. The brakes got so hot from them being seized that any coating on them was cooked off and now they'll likely be covered in rust in short order... good enough reason to give them a paintjob now... And now that I'm going to take axles out to replace the bearings and seals... another great time to do that. I just need to find something to cap off the lines for a short time...

Ya, mine has been flaky for a couple of years, now it doesn't work at all in the intermittent position (When it's just sitting there). I thought it was the module under the hood, but this is clearly the switch. When I merely tap it, it works for just the one wipe.... and every single time I tap it. If I could get a new one, I would... or... at least I tried... Guess I'll have to try to take it apart and see if I can do anything to make it work... Or find something on eBay or a salvage yard... or just say F-it and let it fall apart like the 30yo bitch that she is... She is a discouraging one... maybe I'll name her "Amanda"?

I just got notification that they weren't able to ship the part because they didn't actually have it... go figure....

Just a thought for discussion... I have been battling my rear brakes seizing for a couple of years now. I have noticed a trend that the rear ABS light comes on more frequently when it's closer to the time that they are seized and require service. They were recently torn down and cleaned up and It was suggested that I take a different approach and actually put grease around the seals, rather than simple brake fluid to prevent the rust from building up. Time will tell on this fix. So, My thought... it appears as though it's throwing a fault because it's not sensing the ability to pump fluid to the rear brakes. Am I wrong, or would you think that it's a symptom of 30yo electronics becoming glitchy and close to failure? I'm away from the rig right now so I cannot confirm, but after the rebuild, the ABS light turned off as usual, where before the rebuild, it would stay on religiously.

Welp, I ordered it and paid through PayPal. Shipping was a bit much, but if that's the only place that I can get it from, that's the only place I can get it from... Overall cost was $150 CAD. With the exchange rate, that should come up to about $120.... We shall see how this pans out.

When I got my 92, the lock cylinder for the drivers side door was seized and not functional. I replaced it first thing. Spinning is more than likely the plastic clip that holds the rod in place has broken and fallen off within the door. However, if the lock cylinder is broken as mine was, the parts are still available through the dealer. The locks are a little bit of a challenge to remove, and requires the inside door panel to be removed and requires some simple tools. Considering the age, you should take care to pry off the inner skin. The fiberboard that it is made with is likely deteriorated and the plastic rivets easily pull through if you're not using the correct body panel pry tool (A large screwdriver is not the correct tool). There is a clip that holds the lock cylinder in place and can be removed by tapping it out with a punch or long screwdriver. It's probably covered in some of the various service manuals out there, I don't have one handy to verify. Take care of sharp sheet metal edges. It's been a while since I did this, but I even think I used a pair of channel locks in order to remove it. Lock cylinders can be found here or at the parts source of your choice, but likely, only via a dealer of some kind: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1992-nissan-pathfinder/miscellaneous/key_set_blank_key.html?Diagram=998_A01&pnc=80600. I did not see them on Rock Auto. As is, it's becoming increasingly difficult to get replacement parts for these... my biggest gripe... It is what it is ?

@Slartibartfast I think I need to come visit and borrow your custom made socket for this job. ?

I've already read in a couple of the threads that the headlight switch is very prone to failure. This morning, I fired off the Pathfinder for the first time since I got the brakes fixed (Still waiting on replacement parking brake shoes before I tear into the seals and bearings). I made it a couple of feet out past the driveway, and I noticed I forgot my coffee. Turned around and got it. When I was walking back to the truck, I observed that one of my headlights is out. Both high and low beam. I thought, that's unusual, it's usually only one. When I got back in for my commute, the hi-beam indicator now remains lit regardless of the position it is in, and the one working light does toggle between the filaments.... I haven't done any actual troubleshooting past what I have described above and I looked at the bulb itself. It looks fine.... so.... Switch eh? At least these seem to be readily available...

I purchased my cables through Amayama Trading Co. in Japan.

Just a quick question, I am in search of a new wiper switch PN 25260-03G01. It wasn't used on a Japanese model and not available through Amayama Trading Co. Did a search for that alone, and it appears to be available at a place in Alberta, Canada called Nissan Parts Online https://www.nissanparts.online/. They seem to have a lot of parts available where they're unobtainium anywhere else. Has anyone dealt with these people. The website seems secure, I just don't want to throw some money at a hack and be out of pocket. Thanks Geoff