gamellott

I used to sell auto parts a long time ago and NO ONE uses Champion spark plugs except in their lawnmower If things persist, I recommend going back to NGK.

Starter relay should be on the passengers side just behind the battery. If it's a factory relay, It's Blue and larger than the rest of them on them that are located on the drivers side.

Replacing the hose should be all you need to do for that. Just be aware that there are likely many more in the same condition as that one. You could probably spend an afternoon re-plumbing the hoses with 10' of hose and still miss one or two.

Based almost solely on the clicking, I would speculate that your starter solenoid has a bad spot on it or you have dirty battery terminals. 1. I would clean the battery terminals with a wire brush. If that doesn't work, go to step 2. 2. Check to make sure you have a good ground to the engine/chassis from the battery. If your battery terminals were severely corroded at some point in time, your cables could be compromised and incapable of carrying adequate current to the starter. If you peel back the insulation on the cable towards the chassis ground and motor and they appear greenish in color, you should replace them. This May NOT fix your problem, but will keep it reliable in the future. 2. Check to see if your model has a starter relay on the passengers side fender. If you do, it's not a likely culprit, but it's cheaper than the starter. If that doesn't work, go to step 3. 3. Remove starter and have bench tested. A couple of things can go wrong with the starter causing something similar to what you're experiencing. A) There is a bad spot on the starter and a slight rotation could allow it to start again with no issues. B ) There could be a bad spot on the starter solenoid causing it to click and only click. C) Binding in the starter causing high current and no start. (I don't think this is your problem) D) The brushes just wear out or go bad causing slow starting because they're not making good contact to the motor. (I don't think that is the problem either) If that doesn't give you a starting point or a fix, Let us know, we'll be happy to assist You can do 3 over 2. I actually keep the old starter relay that I replaced in the event I need to troubleshoot it again

I like how they just slice through all of the connections

I would check that you didn't break the wires or some random connection in there. Spark Plug Wires, with age, can degrade and fall apart when changing the spark plugs. If you suspect something like that, you can hear a distinctive click when it's arcing to a ground and not making it to the spark plug. It will be most observable when it's dark out and you can see the spark. Mine has a vacuum connection on the back side of the intake that I'm really good at knocking off when I'm messing around in that area, which can cause a rough idle and likely hesitation. Also, If you took the wires off of the distributor cap, it's easy to plug one back into the wrong hole.

Yah,That thing!!

I'll have to have a look into that. If I look at the Nissan drawings for the "Bearing Assembly", they call it a clutch. One of the clutches is rusted on the outer ring and the bearing sounds like it may have dirt intrusion or maybe water fouled it up and the balls are rusted too?? Eventually will clean it out to see if it's worthy of re-use. Too many things on my plate at the moment in order to get to it right away. Will keep ya posted I need to find some kind of needle attachment for my grease gun so that I can properly pack it. That'll be exciting... Packing grease

I Think I got a rebuild kit and seals through Amazon or Napa. Getting the Pitman arm off was the biggest challenge. I wound up using a large gear puller and a hammer. I couldn't seem to find the right pitman arm puller in order to do the job just right. Input and output shafts were keyed, so you couldn't misalign anything in that department. If you Pull the entire gear box apart, there are ball bearings that you need to keep track of. Do this on a clean workbench with a lip seal or something to prevent the balls from rolling under your tool chest. I know this because I managed to find one on the floor after I put it all together. It sits in a baggie in my tool chest waiting for me to take it apart the next time... which may never happen....

When I replaced my crankshaft pulley, I don't recall having any play in it. I had also put on a new pulley which may have made up for that. OTOH, the reason why I put on a new crank pulley was because I goobered up the original because it was seized onto the crank which probably contributed to the tight fit. I just ran that in a circle....

Nothing more than what you see there. I rebuilt my gearbox because it was leaking and there isn't anything additional to it. It appears as though you may want or need to consider doing the same.

Update to this old topic: So, I had never put the ECM into diagnostic mode before and figured out 2+2 and the coolant temperature sensor was faulted. Checked the connection and, oh hhey..., It's not connected. I connected it and it seems to be running smoother and I'm not seeing the misfire at low RPM anymore, or maybe it's less noticeable.

Sweet ride. Aside from being Automatic and the Dash Mount Clinometer, the interior appears identical to mine

Just looking at the O-ring, it's not exactly just an O-ring. It's more like a small brake caliper seal with 2 ridges, one on the top and bottom. If I can find one that's narrow enough, I assume that I can use an O-ring... Probably not as effective as one with 2 ridges though. Looking at what the dealers have to offer, they don't offer anything aside from a complete hub assembly for a gross amount of money each and then, oh wait, they don't have or offer them anymore. The Auto Locking hubs are sold as an assembly just like the manual. If someone has a good parts breakdown of the hub with PNs, I could probably find something to cross.... Citron, did you replace the bearing only and press it into the assembly or did you manage to find a good bearing assembly??

I imagine this thread was started somewhere else, but I can't seem to find it. Maybe I'm not typing in the correct key words?? So, As the title states, I'm looking for something resembling a rebuild kit for the factory hubs on an early 90's Pathfinder/pickup. I managed to find an older set where the center piece is actually made of Aluminum!! As I recall, somewhere along the line, they shifted to a plastic center hub/switch, which if you see one nowadays, they look like crap and are usually falling apart. Contrary to whatever anyone has said about these, they can be disassembled without breaking them and with a little TLC, I imagine I can refurbish them. The bearings are good, all I really want to do is get them cleaned up, put in a new seal on the center "Lock/Free" switch and put them to good use. Anyone have any experience finding the seal?

Just gonna say, now that everything is tightened back up on the front end, it drives SO Much better and I had to re-learn how not to compensate for the pulling when I hit the brakes Its AMAZING!!

I haven't seen anything quite like what you linked in over 20 years when I had something like that holding the louvers onto my Datsun 210. Good Idea, but it doesn't appear to come in a 14mm size. Thanks for the info. More ideas later I'm not overly fond of the helicoil either. I think I'll throw the timesert in when I go to repair it. The kit, on Amazon, is $116. Not thrilled to have to get it, but I will when it comes time Just hope it isn't on the side of the road while I'm doing it So far I have been lucky with all of my vehicles, for the mostpart, I have not been stranded anywhere except home

Zenit, I bought my 92 about 3 years ago. It had 283Kmiles on it then and it now has 303K. Still my daily driver. It was leaking fluid from every orifice and I have, since, replaced all of the seals except the rear wheel, Front transmission and Rear Main. Fluid loss is negligible now. The question is if you are mechanically competent enough or willing to learn how to fix issues that Will arise? Really, as long as the engine runs and doesn't consume too much oil and mechanically functions well, there isn't an issue with purchasing one that's 20 years old and has 200K+ miles. Getting one that has been, fairly well, taken care of is a starting point. Mine has dings in the body and cracks in the plastic, but Most everything works. It has been worth the $2300 we paid for it and we don't have a vehicle payment to boot As far as longevity, it all depends on how well they have been taken care of. To my knowledge, the engine in mine is original and not likely rebuilt. It Also had belts that still had the Nissan logo on them, which I doubt were original. I suspect someone was taking really good care of the one I got. It's cantankerous, but it's still a good running machine

I think the "sleve" you mention would be a Helicoil, or a Timesert which would use the same size bolt. I don't know if either of those options are good because it's such a large bolt and it's under a pretty heavy strain at times. Re-tapping to a larger size probably isn't a great idea because the hole in the upper control arm Just fits the bolt, like a snug washer.

EEEeeeeyak!! That's a Mess!!

Long story short, someone who did an alignment on it, not too long ago, cross threaded one of the Upper Control Arm mounting bolts and now it's seriously galled. Has anyone put a Helicoil into that? The pulling symptom was weird. It appeared to point the truck to the right and the steering wheel would pull to the left. I've been living with this pulling for several months now and I finally tore apart all of the brakes, rebuilt the calipers and bled the @!*% out of the system with no change. I took a closer look, thinking it was something chassis related, like bushings. It turns out that the driver's side upper control arm rear bolt was sticking out about 1/2 inch and the forward bolt was loose. With a Lack of having a 14mm 1.50 pitch tap and die, I threw some anti-seize on the threads and forced it back in the hole with an impact hammer. I know it's going to need proper attention in the future. So.... Helicoil or Weld and tap?? Suggestions?? It does drive and track fine even though I may have lost whatever shims may have been on the rear. I might just leave it alone??

I actually saw my fuel light on the other day for the first time. I'm pretty sure that I put in closer to 18 gal when I fueled it back up.

I had an XE pickup with the factory steel wheels like this and I found that I had to trim the front end of the fender flare in order to be able to turn the wheels without rubbing the on 31s. Might be the same situation? I'm pretty sure that the fenders are different between the XE and SE Models to accommodate the difference in tire size that they came with. Something else to consider.

The 95 shouldn't have a regulator in the dash, and yes, the ones that had the regulators in the dash, does affect the fuel gauge. They will both read E/Cold (Needles Pegged to the left) if the voltage regulator was bad. I would suspect that the temp gauge, itself, is faulty. There's probably some sort of way to test it by applying a varying voltage to the gauge itself... somehow..... Or finding the pin where the needle receives it's input from and measuring the voltage or resistance from the time it's cold to the time it's hot.

In My experience on my 95 D21, I never had an issue running full synthetic aside from the price. From my previous readings on the topic, I understand that it's the sulfur in the GL5 oil that causes the excess wear on the synchronizers. Full Synthetics usually don't have the sulfur. I Haven't done that kind of fluid change for my WD21, but I'll probably go that route if I keep the animal that long Somewhere along the road, I'm going to have the transmission out and put new seals into it then and fresh fluid to boot... Till then.... Fun fun fun... You should check the service manual for the transfer case. I believe it takes Dextron II ATF. As far as causing excessive leakage because the seals shrink, No. The Seals were probably already worn and Synthetic oils are slipperier and tend to leak more. If you're only leaking a little in the first place, it's not going to be a noticeable difference. You'll have to continue to keep an eye on it, like you normally would if you know you have a leak.