gamellott

I haven't read much into this at all, but based on your description, I would look at the battery cables, grounds, and fusible links coming off of the battery. Those conductors often get corroded and could be a source of experiencing low current to the starter and low voltage to everything else. I had a bad starter years ago with similar symptoms. That happens after 300Kmiles on it. The brushes were completely worn out and no one sells brushes alone anymore, so I bought a rebuilt one from the local auto parts store. That's my 2 cents... I don't know about the alarm system at all, so I cannot elaborate.

Thanks @peejay More for when I might ever swap over to a VG33 block. If I ever make the time to do such an upgrade. All of this stuff is becoming unobtanium as time goes by.

Idle curiosity... get it??? Is there a difference aside from the connector between the VG30 and 33 injectors? Sorry if this was covered in previous conversations, TLDR.

Those cushions come in a seal kit. When I rebuilt the top end, I bought injector seal kits and only replaced that part of the fuel system. I do NOT know what/if they're interchangeable with the VG33 though.

As far as timing goes, here's my lesson learned.... One time in band camp... I disassembled the front pulley from the harmonic balancer thinking I would clean it up, paint it, whatever the reason... without properly match marking it. When I reassembled it, it was off by one bolt hole... silly me... still ran, but ran like crap. Didn't get the timing set properly until I properly clocked the front pulley. Don't do what I did...

OOOOooooooof... This is a Novel!! And a bit above my head on the technical aspects of it. As far as the injectors go, sourcing, I had to replace 2 of them on my VG30 not tooooo long ago. Maybe it's been a couple of years now... maybe... I replaced them with the Beck-Arnley version of them. Found them on Rock Auto. I don't recall how many they had, but I only got the 2 that I needed at the time. I looked not too long ago to get the remaining 4 done, but finding NEW was becoming unobtainium. I wound up getting 2 Standard Motor, and 2 Rebuilt ones that I haven't found the need to install yet. The 2 good "New" brands that I would stick with are Standard Motor Products and Beck-Arnley. Beck usually re-boxes OE stuff, or that's what they did in the past. For imports, they're pretty solid. Standard is usually pretty solid as well. If you punch the part numbers into Amazon, you might be able to find them there as well and not get gigged for shipping like Rock Auto. I would always buy new if you can avoid the rebuilt ones. I have no real experience with rebuilt ones aside from 2 that I got off of Rock that have not been installed. With the age of these, you get what you can get I suppose. BTW, the 2 injectors that I replaced made a world of difference in the idle and perceived power. I have some steep hills that I don't lose power on anymore that I used to before the swap. Upgrading the injectors might not be a bad idea, but if the rest of the engine is stock, you're probably better off keeping it stock.... but don't go the cheapest route. That doesn't always work out in your favor.

If I were to guess, I would look at the drain lines. I've heard that they clog up from time to time depending on how much debris is in the tray. Might be worth looking at that. The outer seal is basically a dust cover. It doesn't really seal anything off. I have 2" electrical tape going all the way around mine until I figure out how to glue a new one back on. It's working for now.

Timing belt, especially if it's unknown when it was last done, is almost a Must!! There are places out there that make kits for these that include a water pump and tensioner pulley that are typically worth getting. Squealing or grinding when turning coming from the brakes is more indicative of badly worn bearings. I haven't seen a hose be a cause of that, but then, I've heard of stranger things. If it's happening all of the time, more than likely it's the wear sensor on your brake pads. Maybe a combination of brake pads and lose bearings? Or maybe it's metal to metal and the brake sensor is still attached? Get the wheel off and have a look.... One thing about these when turning, and I experienced this on my D21 as well, When the wheel is turned into the stops, it makes a hideous noise if you hit uneven pavement or a curb. That's entirely because the stops hit a bolt on the spindle and they grind. Could that be your problem with the grinding noise? Good Chassis parts are becoming harder to find. The typical auto parts store will only have stuff made in China and the quality is typically pretty poor IMHO. I really don't think these things had zirk fittings installed from the factory. Even the New Drag Link I got from NAPA didn't have them. And Yes, I paid the higher dollar price at NAPA because I didn't want the cheap Chinese part. The Lower Ball joints, even new, will feel bad, unless they changed the design. I didn't take it apart, but I think the ball sits in a cone that is not captured like I've seen on others. Its really wonky when it's not under tension.

Just to close this out. The differential was installed over the weekend. Have been driving it in the snow for the last couple of days. Totally unrelated; somehow one of the bleeder valves for the brakes got galled and didn't seal at all after being put back together. Fixed that by chucking it up in a drill and cleaning the bur/gouge off with a file (Probably related to being 33yo). New ones are on the way. One injector decided to seize. It took about 4-5 warm up and cool down cycles in order for it to free up. After all of that, everything seems to be running great except Some vibration around 55-60mph that clears up >60mph.

Never seen a damper, but... Oh well, something to be aware of, Kind of like a Pontiac 301 Turbo. I've only seen one in the wild in 5 years of working Auto Parts in the hayday when they were popular. Hoses acting like a check valve does happen. I failed to remember that one... It's a part to consider.

Ya, that's a new one on me unless you have a leak in your master cylinder where it is letting in air past the piston as you drive and progressively gets worse. But that would be a bit different symptom I think. I'm not aware of a damper in the system. The couple of these that I have owned have included a Master Cylinder, Hose, and Slave Cylinder. Don't judge me, that's what they're called...

I could be mistaken, but I believe you can get away with a single spade connector for the temperature connector. I know you can get the ones for the clipped in ones found on all of the emission related systems, but that one isn't one that I have seen in the past. If the spade fits, you can put a little bit of heat shrink on the spade for added security. Not having a thermostat could be a big problem in colder climates right now!! Heat is a nice thing to have for sure!!!

Agreed what @Slartibartfast said regarding the wires. My 92' has both sensors located adjacent to eachother on the neck to the upper radiator hose. The 2 wire connector will look almost identical to any of the fuel/emission connectors on the engine. As far as the Temp Gauge and potentially erroneous indication, that could be the result of a failed Voltage Regulator on your instrument cluster. (Not sure if a 95' still has one of those) Replacing that little gizmo fixed the fuel and temp gauges on my rig.

Agreed. That step down in size is likely a bushing/spacer that is probably rusted in place and would probably come out if given the proper force.

Sweet!! you'll need everything that is attached to that, including, and especially, the parking brake cables!! They're not interchangeable with the drum cables, and the correct cable for that setup is unobtanium nowadays unless you can find it on Amayama or some other overseas outlet!!

Yes, it's a mess. I imagine it could have been worse, but it's time to make this a paperweight. @hawairish is providing a great assist in order to get this back on the road. Hopefully in time before for the snow to hit. I kinda still want to find a good donor vehicle, but I don't want to wind up with a junk yard full of non-working vehicles in my yard, or a garage full of spare parts that I want to keep for Justin. That said, a LOT of parts are becoming increasingly difficult to acquire unless you have a stash somewhere or know someone... I can't tell you the last time I saw a D/WD21 with 2 factory brake lights like mine on the road. It would be awesome to find someone who parked something 12 years ago that's wanting to get rid of it now that's compatible.

Good Afternoon All!! Teardown complete and I found one side of the LSD was missing both of the friction plate guides. The tabs on the friction disks with tabs had worn into the housing on both sides. Additionally, one of the springs @hawairish discusses in his teardown and rebuild post, was shattered. Special Thanks to @hawairish and @Slartibartfast for their guidance on how-to DIY.

Safe bet is that the injectors are fully clogged if it's been sitting for 12 years and was running when parked. I wish you luck and hope it finds a home. As mentioned above, I'm a bit far to try to take it off of your hands as well. Although... not totally impossible

Another thing to note; when I got the parts request back from JP's, all of the disk parts were available to manufacture with the caveat of having a 2+ month lead time to build. Maybe there is a light at the end of the tunnel for these things and getting NEW replacement parts!! Other question @hawairish; do you recommend replacing the non friction disks, or just the friction ones? As mentioned above, it appears as though I can get them all.... Just might take some time...

I managed to get it out over the weekend. At that, it's just out. I cannot see any smoking guns on the "failure". Good wear on the Ring and pinion gears, nothing abnormal as far as I can see. It's all pretty well encased and the clutches/retainers are not visible. More to follow when I make the time to disassemble what I need to in order to get to the clutches. One thing that I was able to figure out is that I do have the correct gear ratio according to the plate inside the engine compartment. One thing that I did overlook was a gasket. It's not expensive, so I'll probably get 2. Shipping will cost more than the parts, I'm sure...

The occasional clunking and pulling, can be a number of things. I had a pull when I hit the brakes and clunking long after someone who didn't know what they were doing performed an alignment and didn't tighten up the upper control arm enough, galling the threads to one of the bolts mounting it to the frame. It's Still not properly fixed, but it's not moving anywhere after I drove it home with an impact hammer. Among other places, look there as well. As far as a consistent pull, I would look at an alignment issue, worn out bushings... All of those things, considering the age, could be worn out. Unless you put one on, I don't believe these things ever came with a factory installed steering dampener. I put one on a D21, and I noticed no difference in performance. Might be different if you are doing a lot of off-roading. I don't really know. Squealing when turning.... That might be PS pump related, but it's worth giving the everything in the steering and bearings a once over before getting too deep into it. It almost sounds as though one of your problems could be a really bad front wheel bearing.... Get it off of the ground and push the wheel around on it's axis and see if you get much play. Good Luck!!

@hawairish I'll keep an eye out for the correct one then. Seems to be slim pickings around here. There was ONE in Portland that looked promising... but that's almost a day trip from here, and I wouldn't want to travel that far to be disappointed with an open diff.... although, it seems as though all Pathfinders may have LSD's according to one source I saw. I don't know if that's true.

I have preemptively sent an inquiry for ALL of the LSD parts in the differential to JP-Carparts... I should be hearing from them in the next couple of days to see what/if the parts are available. Total, sans shipping and tax, is 295.53. Kinda eager to see what they have... I'm glad someone turned me onto some of these resources overseas... It's a mixed blessing.... Otherwise, I might be considering scrapping it...

I have read that the 9-11 bolt patterns are basically interchangeable by removing or omitting 2 of the studs based on what you're putting on... but if I'm going to do it, I'd rather have the right thing in the first place. I'll give them a call back to verify the year of the potential donor. That being said, the other question that comes to mind is if it has the LSD option. I'm not convinced that the LSD is junk yet without looking at it. It is Quiet. Actually, more quiet than I have experienced in the past. There was a moment in time where it would routinely clatter when I was making slow turns. Now, I don't notice it... Anyway, provided nothing comes up, I'll be trying to pull it this weekend to inspect and try to order parts as necessary.

Putting aside the gear ratio for a second, what year range should I look for in a donor for a 92' (2/92)? I found one that might fit the bill; AT w/237/75/15 tires. I don't recall the year, and their search engine doesn't work online.... But then... with what I have in there now being in question.... who knows.... Provided I don't detonate the rear end in my trip home this evening, I might just have to rebuild it since parts do seem to be unobtanium unless you already have a donor vehicle on hand.