gamellott

@hawairishThanks!! As far as how it broke, it wasn't sheared or bent. It looks like it had a stress fracture from something where it just broke as a result of.... something.... I'll break into it this weekend and see what it looks like. Just have to drive it home this evening and it'll be parked until I can get to that. Should be getting a new clutch and other related parts soon, so just as good of a time to rip out all of the driveline while I'm at it. I have messages sent out to a couple of local parts yards looking for a donor. So far, no answer...

@hawairishThank You Again!! I guess it's time to park it again, and start tearing into the driveline to figure out if it is from mine. Looks easy enough to figure out based on the videos. I just hate that I dumped $60 in synthetic gear oil into it the other day.... maybe I can figure out a way to filter it after draining it.... sigh.... Junk Yards around here are pretty slim, and they usually take the wheels off to recycle the Aluminum, making it that much more difficult to get to something like a rear differential. But... I do know someone that has an HG46 somewhat available.... and somewhat local.... somewhat.... The mountain pass just closed for the season If the part is from mine, I might be better off trying to get replacement parts online direct from Japan, and cheaper... assuming they're still available. If they are available, It looks like a complete rebuild, sans bearings, could run up to $300. Unless I missed something.... which is a complete possibility....

Amayama seems to have that part available.... Maybe the friction disks as well... A lot cheaper too... There are 2 different options, one is a 1.6, the other is a 1.5.... What's the difference?

It's beginning to look like I need to tear it apart to see if this is actually from the one in it now.... If it is, It's looking like I'm going to have to look for a donor vehicle since new parts for this are basically unobtanium. I guess the question I have now: Could this lead to a catastrophic failure?? Or... should I just gut it and not have LSD?? That is... until I find a suitable donor... And the other question, as originally discussed, is the HG43 compatible with the HG46 since I might have a 46?

Good Evening Smarter people than me!! I would like to give @Slartibartfast credit for allowing me to pick his marvelous brain to help me come to some conclusions here! I found the attached piece of metal on the magnet on my rear differential drain plug magnet. It's about 10mm wide and it looks like it could have been a bearing race piece... Based on the videos I have seen on the HB233 axle tear down, it doesn't look familiar... There are a couple of tells from the teardown I did while replacing the rear wheel bearings and seals. 1)The nuts holding the axle in place were nylock fasteners and not the traditional crimp lock nuts. 2) My speedo has traditionally read about 10% off, low, compared to the radar assisted speed signs on the side of the road. Based on the tag in the engine compartment, I should have an HG43 pinion. I'm wondering if someone in the previous 20 years prior to my ownership, they had a differential melt down, and the replacement was and HG46? Anyone recognize something like this?? It's been about 30Kmiles since the last oil change on this and aside from this, I have noticed nothing significant, no noises, no wobbling, no grinding.... I appreciate your insight!! Have a great evening!!!

@Slartibartfast I'm finally getting motivated to replace these bastages along with the rest of the leakers now that it's chilly and rainy. I do have a dry place to work on it though I did a search after watching your video, and I was not able to find the, Nissan branded, bent tab locking washer anywhere in the US, but I was able to locate them through Amayama, in Japan or the UAE, for about $25 after shipping. Probably going to take a few weeks to get here if I do that. Do you recommend just using the old ones and hope for the best with a different location of a bent tab, or waiting for a new part? I'm half tempted to just pull the trigger and work on other things while I'm waiting. The question of the moment... what other parts do I try to order while I'm at it.... Parts, as you mention, are getting more difficult to find.... the right ones, at least... Some RHD parts are not compatible with LHD after all... which is why my intermittent wiper switch is still randomly intermittent Hope you're not getting too much snow yet!!!

Was just under mine the other day trying to figure out how difficult it's going to be to pull my transmission. I observed that the O2 sensor wiring was held up out of the way by a wire wrap on the transmission... didn't know that was there, among other things.... Yet another thing....

I would keep in mind that there are Disk and Drum brakes available on some of these things. Swapping from one to the other will pose additional problems/costs that you may not have anticipated.

Good Afternoon All, A little oddball thing I assume. I'm getting ready to pull off the upper intake manifold and I'm pretty sure that the PCV Valve hose isn't going to survive this round, as it was well cracked the last time I took it off. Does anyone have a Part Number to suggest for a replacement? If not, what's a suggested workaround?

Yes, Labor can be expensive for something time consuming. $400-$500 is pretty cheap overall. I wonder how much labor someone would charge for a Timing Belt and Water Pump on one of these???

Long Story Short, The gaskets on the back side of the heads where the camshafts are inserted into the heads are leaking. I cheeped out and I reused the old ones when I replaced the head gaskets and now that I have identified where the current leak is from, I don't have faith that they're going to hold on in the long term and I want to replace them. I imagine that could be catastrophic to the heads if those gaskets outright fail. I have the new gaskets, but I was wondering if anyone has experience in replacing those with the transmission out with the intake removed. I do have a new head gasket set, but taking the heads off is a pretty serious undertaking. I've done it I'm game to pulling the transmission since those seals are almost the last remaining leakers that I have on the vehicle, and I have no idea what condition the clutch is in. I just know that it still works. Thoughts, Recommendations?

I have some of those cut wires, only because I couldn't get the OE shocks disconnected. When I replaced them, most of them collapsed immediately. That's what happens after 30 years of use I suppose.

The hoses underneath are likely vents for your axles, transmission and transfer case. Those aren't under much pressure, so they use those snap clamps The orange cap looking thing looks like what I have on mine and should be the oil sending unit under there, if it's on the driver's side, above the starter. The plugs that are on the side of what looks like your transfer case, should be the 4WD indicator, Reverse, and Speedometer Upper left, might be the transfer case indications for the 4WD. I believe the speedometer should be on the tailshaft of the transfer case. The lower right one, could be the remnants of your oil sending unit. Kinda hard to tell.

Sounds like a bad master cylinder to me. I had something similar happen to me in an old Ford. I don't know how prevalent NEW parts for that are, but you're better off getting brand new vs rebuilt if available, and not something from China. Also, you could possibly get something from a different vehicle. Not a WD21, but I got a master cylinder from a 200SX and put it on my 210, and worked fantastic!

I got my parking brake cables from Amayama. Took a while, but it was worth it.

Ya, it's an XE and it is super clean and it's 30 years old and you can barely get parts for them, even from Japan. That's a hard pass for me. And if you don't have the cash on hand to purchase it outright, you're not likely to get it financed.... Nice, but no.

This is totally off of the original topic..... The "Interlock" switch is on the right hand side, which is on the same side as the ignition switch. Kinda hard to hold at the same time as you're turning the key. I don't know how I figured out how it worked because I don't have a Factory owners manual. I don't think it has ever not started, except when the battery was dead. The process of starting and using the interlock switch is, at least on my rig: 1. Check the vehicle in neutral. Wiggle the stick out of gear. 2. Depress the interlock switch. 3. Turn the ignition switch to start. I'm not sure why they did it, but it's there. It does bypass the clutch interlock, of which, if broken, will make it difficult to start. I found that out on my 95 D21 that didn't have the interlock switch. I suspect that they don't put that switch on there anymore is because people are stoopid and start it in gear without depressing the clutch, and drive into things.... I answered my own question there.... Hmph....

Yes, fusible links serve some kind of purpose and are slow blow. I burned one up when I crossed the terminals when trying to jump start a vehicle. It caused other problems, but that was 30some years ago and I don't remember everything I destroyed in the process. What I really have noticed in everything that has fusible links, is that they typically get corroded over the years from exposure to battery acid. Just me? I don't know, but they are certainly a nuisance over time. Which is why I am a fan of sealed cell batteries!!!

The interlock switch is momentary and I am sure there is some kind of timer to it, although I have not done any research on how long it lasts. I hit the switch and turn the key and drive off....

The very end of the first video I heard what sounded like a lifter. Everything prior to that was just some kind of bad muffled noises, which I don't think is telling of anything. Some things are better identified in person. Other observations from the acceleration video; What is the red light on the bottom of the dash? I'm not familiar with that. Also, Take a look at the tach, it doesn't appear to move past 2. The price seems reasonable. I spent that much on mine almost 10 years ago.

I would try Amayama, direct from Japan or elsewhere overseas. They seem to have more parts available for these things. That's where I got my parking brake cables.

I literally had a shorted filament within a bulb causing an issue with my high beams. It wouldn't hurt to look at those while you're at it.

Spark to the distributor from the coil is progress. Not getting it out to the wires and plugs, means that there is something going on with the cap, rotor and/or wires, not the whole distributor. The distributor is a mostly dumb device that simply times the engine rotation to the spark and sends the spark to the appropriate cylinder as it rotates, through the cap, rotor and wires.

My vote would be on the ignition switch. I'm not positive how the contacts align on these, but I had this exact problem on a Mitsubishi truck in the past.

I would look at the rubber bump stops and see if you can adjust them to allow it to latch. My latch was bent out of shape somehow and I picked up a newer mechanism at a Junk Yard years ago and just installed it and it works perfectly. You probably have some misalignment that isn't too obvious, or you could have some bent or broken parts in the latch from the rear-ending.