gamellott

Good Afternoon All, A little oddball thing I assume. I'm getting ready to pull off the upper intake manifold and I'm pretty sure that the PCV Valve hose isn't going to survive this round, as it was well cracked the last time I took it off. Does anyone have a Part Number to suggest for a replacement? If not, what's a suggested workaround?

Yes, Labor can be expensive for something time consuming. $400-$500 is pretty cheap overall. I wonder how much labor someone would charge for a Timing Belt and Water Pump on one of these???

Long Story Short, The gaskets on the back side of the heads where the camshafts are inserted into the heads are leaking. I cheeped out and I reused the old ones when I replaced the head gaskets and now that I have identified where the current leak is from, I don't have faith that they're going to hold on in the long term and I want to replace them. I imagine that could be catastrophic to the heads if those gaskets outright fail. I have the new gaskets, but I was wondering if anyone has experience in replacing those with the transmission out with the intake removed. I do have a new head gasket set, but taking the heads off is a pretty serious undertaking. I've done it I'm game to pulling the transmission since those seals are almost the last remaining leakers that I have on the vehicle, and I have no idea what condition the clutch is in. I just know that it still works. Thoughts, Recommendations?

I have some of those cut wires, only because I couldn't get the OE shocks disconnected. When I replaced them, most of them collapsed immediately. That's what happens after 30 years of use I suppose.

The hoses underneath are likely vents for your axles, transmission and transfer case. Those aren't under much pressure, so they use those snap clamps The orange cap looking thing looks like what I have on mine and should be the oil sending unit under there, if it's on the driver's side, above the starter. The plugs that are on the side of what looks like your transfer case, should be the 4WD indicator, Reverse, and Speedometer Upper left, might be the transfer case indications for the 4WD. I believe the speedometer should be on the tailshaft of the transfer case. The lower right one, could be the remnants of your oil sending unit. Kinda hard to tell.

Sounds like a bad master cylinder to me. I had something similar happen to me in an old Ford. I don't know how prevalent NEW parts for that are, but you're better off getting brand new vs rebuilt if available, and not something from China. Also, you could possibly get something from a different vehicle. Not a WD21, but I got a master cylinder from a 200SX and put it on my 210, and worked fantastic!

I got my parking brake cables from Amayama. Took a while, but it was worth it.

Ya, it's an XE and it is super clean and it's 30 years old and you can barely get parts for them, even from Japan. That's a hard pass for me. And if you don't have the cash on hand to purchase it outright, you're not likely to get it financed.... Nice, but no.

This is totally off of the original topic..... The "Interlock" switch is on the right hand side, which is on the same side as the ignition switch. Kinda hard to hold at the same time as you're turning the key. I don't know how I figured out how it worked because I don't have a Factory owners manual. I don't think it has ever not started, except when the battery was dead. The process of starting and using the interlock switch is, at least on my rig: 1. Check the vehicle in neutral. Wiggle the stick out of gear. 2. Depress the interlock switch. 3. Turn the ignition switch to start. I'm not sure why they did it, but it's there. It does bypass the clutch interlock, of which, if broken, will make it difficult to start. I found that out on my 95 D21 that didn't have the interlock switch. I suspect that they don't put that switch on there anymore is because people are stoopid and start it in gear without depressing the clutch, and drive into things.... I answered my own question there.... Hmph....

Yes, fusible links serve some kind of purpose and are slow blow. I burned one up when I crossed the terminals when trying to jump start a vehicle. It caused other problems, but that was 30some years ago and I don't remember everything I destroyed in the process. What I really have noticed in everything that has fusible links, is that they typically get corroded over the years from exposure to battery acid. Just me? I don't know, but they are certainly a nuisance over time. Which is why I am a fan of sealed cell batteries!!!

The interlock switch is momentary and I am sure there is some kind of timer to it, although I have not done any research on how long it lasts. I hit the switch and turn the key and drive off....

The very end of the first video I heard what sounded like a lifter. Everything prior to that was just some kind of bad muffled noises, which I don't think is telling of anything. Some things are better identified in person. Other observations from the acceleration video; What is the red light on the bottom of the dash? I'm not familiar with that. Also, Take a look at the tach, it doesn't appear to move past 2. The price seems reasonable. I spent that much on mine almost 10 years ago.

I would try Amayama, direct from Japan or elsewhere overseas. They seem to have more parts available for these things. That's where I got my parking brake cables.

I literally had a shorted filament within a bulb causing an issue with my high beams. It wouldn't hurt to look at those while you're at it.

Spark to the distributor from the coil is progress. Not getting it out to the wires and plugs, means that there is something going on with the cap, rotor and/or wires, not the whole distributor. The distributor is a mostly dumb device that simply times the engine rotation to the spark and sends the spark to the appropriate cylinder as it rotates, through the cap, rotor and wires.

My vote would be on the ignition switch. I'm not positive how the contacts align on these, but I had this exact problem on a Mitsubishi truck in the past.

I would look at the rubber bump stops and see if you can adjust them to allow it to latch. My latch was bent out of shape somehow and I picked up a newer mechanism at a Junk Yard years ago and just installed it and it works perfectly. You probably have some misalignment that isn't too obvious, or you could have some bent or broken parts in the latch from the rear-ending.

I think the best thing you can do, and cheapest, is to fix what you have unless you have something like a wiped crank from lack of oil. There are VG33 swaps that you can do, and some that bolt right in with little to no changes, but you must first find a donor. There are threads somewhere in here that discuss that. None of these options are cheap cheap. Maintaining a 30yo vehicle never is. I think I spent close to $700 when I went through the top end because of a bad head gasket (Between Gaskets, Seals, Machining, etc...). Certainly cheaper than a vehicle payment. It really all depends on your budget, your capabilities/resources, and if you should keep hanging on to this vehicle. Some things aren't worth the powder to blow them up.

That's a pretty good instructional video on how to do the front end. I will note, having done that job, that the lower ball joints, even when new, are deceptively loose. I'm sure it's just the design though. Makes me wonder if the lowers ever actually can wear out?

My rig would occasionally make that exact sound on start up. When I replaced the head gaskets, I found one lifter had a cleaved face on it, so I replaced it. Since then, the sound has not recurred. My bet, if you tear it down to the valve covers, you'll find a smoking gun there with the noise. A bad rod bearing is more of a knock As far as backfiring, it would make sense to me that you probably have an injector issue. I had a slight misfire for the longest time, mostly audible at the tailpipe more than anywhere else. Eventually, the culprits outright failed. After replacing the failed injectors, the misfire completely went away and some amount of power was gained in the process. If you can identify a possible single failed/failing injector, the perfect time to replace it would be when the upper intake is off.

Looks perfect to me. Do you really need new torsion bars? If you've run out of room on the torsion bar, you can re-key them.

The biggest gripe against the red/colored poly bushings, that I have heard, is that they squeak. The OE style rubber ones do not. I imagine there is an amount of lube that can be applied that could mitigate that, but that's up to you.

Wow, $2400... that's a bit excessive. I know things are immensely more complicated on more modern vehicles, and the exhaust creates it's own problems because it's in the way, but ya... That's a bit much for anything, except the timing belt on these things. If I were to guess, I would say that they quoted you that much because they didn't want to do the work.

I have always been told that Hylomar (Grey) is what is used on Japanese imports. Might as well replace all of the seals while your at it.

Last time I bought the bushings, they didn't come with new washers. May have been a difference in manufacturer? I don't know. Also lost a nut and a washer (Maybe I didn't torque it enough? I don't know). Had to do this exact re-inventing of the wheel in order to get it reassembled. A washer that's nearly 3 inches in diameter and 3/16" thick worn out? Typically not, unless you have some other kind of problem, like salt on the road and a corrosive environment.