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Canuck

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    95 Pathfinder SE
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
    45+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1995

Profile Information

  • Location
    Alberta
  • Country
    Canada

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  1. In my 95 Pathfinder with power door locks I had an issue with door locks that would lock themselves, while I was trying to unlock the driver side door, particularly in cold weather. When I tried to reopen it with a key, from the outside, it was actually fighting me twisting the key out of my hand. Now here in Alberta it can get really cold while I am way out in the woods deer hunting, and when it was below -10 all the doors would lock if the driver door was slammed shut. I had to carry 2 spare keys one in my wallet and one extra one in my pant pocket. No dealer shop was able to fix this. The service manual had no advise for it either. I even contacted Nissan headquarters trying to find a solution, for a person can easily freeze to death, if locked out in bitter cold far from any place to warm up. Nobody had an answer. But recently my driver side lock cylinder suddenly stopped fighting, it had broken and was spinning 360 degrees without any resistance, and did not unlock anything. I went to a local wrecker and pulled out a cylinder from another '95 pathy, I then took it to a locksmith who said he would rekey it to match my car key, and would install it for about a 100 bucks. I let him do it, but he soon called me into the shop, he had discovered a nylon sending unit clipped to the cylinder that broke during unmounting. He wondered whether I would go to get another one, and explained that the lock will work with the key from the outside to mechanically open this door, and once open, the switch in the arm rest would, if pushed, unlock all the other doors. The manual push button or the same switch could be pushed before the door is closed and all doors would lock. So really there was no urgent need to replace the broken nylon clip. This clip has a wire coming out one end which is connected to the door switch circuit. He just disconnected it, and gave it to me. Well, my fights with this stupid power door switch that would always try to lock me out are finally over, for good! I only wish, that cylinder would have broken 18 years ago!
  2. I replaced a glovebox latch on my '95 pathy because I had broken the plastic latchbolt, while pushing on the door too hard when it would not close. I got a new latch without lock cylinder, the cylinder comes out easily, and I put it into the new latch assembly, before I reinstalled it. But when I tried out it out the glove box door was stuck after I closed it. The latch was not locked. I eventually pried the door open with a large flat screw driver, it needed only a little bit of downward pressure on the top edge and it opened. Next I investigated why it was stuck, it appears the fixed hoop that catches the latch when the door is closed must be adjusted just right. I remember there are 3 screws , two of which fix the proper position for the latch to work perfect. Adjust it just a little bit at a time, you can mark its position with masking tape before you loosen it. By the way I was also able to fix the broke latch bolt, using crazy glue.
  3. WD 40 works for me, I used it on my '95 SE Pathfinder's tire carrier since 1996, when I bought it, I used the small aerosol spray can with the tiny red straw that comes with it, spraying directly into the lube holes, but these spit the spray right back (maybe the are the bearing pin holes), so I sprayed around the top and bottom of where I could see the carrier rotate while I swung it to and fro. I kept swinging it until enough WD 40 got into the bearings, freeing the hinges to swing freely. A day later they usually were even easier to work , too easy for my liking because now I had to use the carriers stop pin to make sure the gate did not hit me from behind when a wind came up and my head was inside the back adjusting the load. The only drawback, over time I noticed that wherever I had WD40 spray marks on the black powder coating of the carrier, it formed rust spots the same size as the WD 40 spots, even though it is supposed to repell water.
  4. Suddenly my driver door lock cannot be operated from outside, it appears as if the cylinder turns freely all around when I turn the key. Works from inside. Anybody know a fix?
  5. Thanks Precise1 - your info is what the glass wholesalers should put in their catalog, then nobody would need to guess. My glass shop ordered both pieces of glass, we installed the one that supposedly had NO holes, but when arrived - it had the 8 holes we needed. Only problem it has no dark "Chrome" tint, but just a light blue one. We could apply a dark film next summer. This issue is solved - thanks.
  6. Today my tailgate glass blew to bits on my 95 Pathfinder SE while driving at 70 on our freeway to downtown. No idea what happened, but I did go through an underpass and there was lots of sanding grit on the road because we had a sleet storm. I got it taped shut with plastic film temporarily, went to Autoglass Shop for repair, they are ordering a new piece. From catalogue info there are 2 types of replacements available for the 1995 Nissan: One which has 10 holes (for late models95's and 1996) for mounting bolts etc., and one which has none for 1994 and earlier. From what we can still determine my old glass had 2 bolt holes each for the 2 top hinges, 2 holes for the lock latch, and 1 hole each for each of the the 2 stay-open struts. That makes 8 holes. The old glass was also equipped with a defrost heater, however it appear it was surface mounted, but I cannot tell for sure. The glass also was tinted, the shop called it "chromed". Anybody know what the extra holes are for?
  7. Rear glass for 85 Pathfinder

  8. Go to my post"Turn signals repeatedly cut out" of Nov12, 2012. I found a simple way to check all turn signal bulbs at once, including all wiring and switches to them, by jumping flasher wires. Also go to my next post in that subject which determined I had a missing intermittent ground and how to find it, and repair it. It worked for me.
  9. i had the same problem with a nut that had fallen off from the left rear tail gate strut upper mount and was lost somewhere inside the rear fender area. I could see the bolt hole, that's all. Well I figured there must have been a nut on the inside because I hade a bolt on the outside. So first I found a nut that fitted the bolt. Then I went to a bolt store and got a similar nut pre-assembled with a star lock washer. It was even chrome or nickel finished! I took it home, then taped it with masking tape to the face end of a yard stick like piece of wood, leaving the nut's hole open. I shoved the stick with nut attached up inside the fully enclosed jamb, going into it from the bottom, after removing the body liner access door next to the left rear tail light. When I could see the nut I taped the bottom end of my stick in place. I had to redo this a few times before the nut was lined up sufficient to start the bolt into it. Then in started the bolt very carefully until I knew it had started into the nut's threads. The rest was a piece of cake, and I actually spent more time trying to find the old nut then to install the new one.
  10. There are now connectors for sale on the web: Go to this URL: https://www.google.ca/search?q=Flasher+connector&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=RqJ&tbo=u&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=8M21UKGXL4P2igLnoIDQDA&ved=0CGMQsAQ&biw=1024&bih=492
  11. My problem had started with the right front signal lamp corrosion, which I had cleaned away, and my "Light Test" showed that this light was working again. But the light did not flash, so I installed a new flasher. Still no flashes, so I checked again with my "Light Test" and none of the lights came on. I figured the flasher could have burned out because my cleaning did not get all the corrosion, so bought 2 new front signal Lamps, since one was bad and the new lens color did not match the original. I installed the new front lamp plus a new flasher - and still had no flashes. A new "Light Test" again showed all lights out. I checked for power at the Flasher connector, and it was there. I now checked for ground at the connector, and found it had disappeared. Somewhere the ground wire was broken from the "C" connector to the flasher plug connector. I had to bring a new ground to the flasher circuit board since I could not get it from the connector cable. I opened the flasher, drilled a small hole in the circuit board next to the ground connector, inserted a 18 Ga. electric copper wire from the top and soldered it to the prong terminals below, then bent the wire toward the back of the board, made a knot in the wire there so it would not slip through the hole, drilled that hole in the back of the flasher housing, threaded the wire through the hole, and reassembled the flasher and its housing. I used another piece of wire & clipped on a loop connector for a ground screw, using a as vice grip as a tool. Finally I removed the dash panel below the steering wheel, found a good ground at the right bolt that holds the fuse block in place, cut the other end of the loop fitted wire to the length required, and connected this end with the wire sticking out from the flasher with a twist on connector. I removed the bolt, put on the loop connector, and reinstalled. Then I plugged the flasher into its harness connector, reinstalled the dash panel. My flasher and their lights now work like new! In the process I found that the broken ground wire is right behind the connector. To make a permanent soldered wire repair to the harness I will need to remove the entire front dash, steering wheel and instrument panel included, that will have to wait for warmer weather, my back yard is too cold right now (-2°F.)!
  12. This topic started with what do you like better 1995 SE or XE Pathfinder. I still have my 95 SE bought new in early 1996. I had an 88 XE which I traded in. The XE was impossible to drive on washboard gravel roads which we still have lots of in back country in Alberta. The rear end would just wander diagonally across the road, even when the truck was fully loaded and pulled a 250 lb tongue weight camp trailer. So lets say I traded mainly for the better ride. The SE came with all sorts of stuff I had no use for. I test drive with the factory giant alum wheels, nearly drove into a wall because the dealers parking lot was not the size of an airfield, which seemed necessary for the vehicle's 100ft. radius to make a U-turn. I had them take off these wheels and put on the same ones I had on my '88. Then we adjusted the wheel turn stops, so now I can U-turn in less than 50 feet. Main reason: I often drive on seismic cutlines in the woods, which often become dead end traps where you want to turn around in less than 8 ft width with timber all around. It would take forever with a larger turning radius. Next I had them take all the decorative nonsense off, it had plastic fender guards, just the things to break off in tight bush and get sand into the joints that will wear out the fenders in no time. Then there was the front end "brush guard" and the "protective" step rails, I know from experience that these greenhorn features only guarantee to catch fallen branches and then drag the whole dead tree into your trucks front or side. Well I ended up paying $5000 less because of my desire for a more backwoods worthy truck. Its been really good to me, never got stuck even in deep snow. I never shovel my driveway just pack it down, (my neighbors and got 6 ft. tall snow banks on both sides). I set up the passenger seat as a bed when I am out for big game. Love the truck. Seldom use the roof hatch.
  13. Slartibartfast, you sure got me on that one. I stand corrected, it should have said "4 wheel high". There is one more correction: " ....shifting in and out of 4wheel high at 70 MPH" should read: " ....shifting in and out of 4wheel high at 50 MPH" Canadian Pathfinders read speed in km/h, so when I go "70" it is km/h, which is really only 50MPH. We Alberta old timers are now about 20 years into these metrics, but I still tend to mix up the speed descriptions.
  14. Slartibartfast, you sure got me on that one. I stand corrected, it should have said "4 wheel high".
  15. Thanks for the help, but I found no short or wiring problem as of today. I did however in the process figure out a simple and quick method to check the entire turn signal and hazard light circuitry on my Pathfinder. My problem was no lights on. After trying to go by the book, I came up with a much quicker method to check: Remove the flasher. Look at the male end of the connector cable, in a way so that the middle connector is up. Now the left slot comes from the power source and is positive. The right slot is always ground. The power source (left slot) is fed from 2 different places: The hazard lights are fed to it directly from the battery, their fuse is the 5th from the right, bottom row The turn signals are fed to it from the ignition switch "on", their fuse is the 2nd from the right, top row. Start with ignition off, turn signal switch off, hazard switch off. Connect the left slot of the flasher cable to the middle slot with a jumper wire. Push the hazard switch to "on", and all 4 turn signal lamps plus 2 indicators at the instrument panel will light if these bulbs and their wiring and the hazard switch is OK. Next turn the hazard switch to "Off", use the key to switch on the ignition, then switch on the left turn signal, the left indicator will light up in the panel and also the left turn signals. Switch the right signal on, and right indicator and right side turn signals will light up, if the bulbs and their wiring is OK. When I checked all my bulbs lit, in all tests. That leaves the flasher as faulty, (I have to get a new one) unless there is an intermittent short in the wiring or a shaky connection. That can only be found once one of the bulbs does not light up. To set up the jumper wire, I found a non-working flasher, reached under the cap with a screw driver to lift it from the locking tabs, and pulled out the circuit board. I then bent the left and right connector prongs to and fro until they broke off, so I had 2 nice brass blades which I then pushed into the (switches off!) connector slots, one on the left and one in the middle. then I connected the protruding blades with a clamp-on jumper wire. Make sure all switches are off before you disconnect, then disconnect the jumper and immediately remove the brass blades from the plug, as soon as the test is finished, to prevent a short that could start a fire.
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