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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/23/2021 in Posts

  1. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    10 points
  2. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    9 points
  3. Hello again as it has been awhile. Well did another upgrade/maintenance to the pathy by adding a bumper that most likely not a whole lot of people have heard about. It’s not an ARB although it is very similar but it’s a MCC 4x4 Falcon Bull Bar 702-02. I think this bumper looks fantastic on the rig and that the updated fog lights they put on the bumper match my retro fits which make the aesthetics that much better to me IMO. This bumper was literally a direct bolt on and didn’t have to modify anything besides the fender liners which I then attached to the bumper so I could keep some stuff out of the air box inlet and other components. I then added some Ironman 4x4 Spot lights which are pretty darn bright and have some good range on them as well. The bumper is ADR compliant and airbag compatible which is nice as well Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    9 points
  4. of the weekend in pinamar beach, buenos aires, argentina
    6 points
  5. Not perfect, but works.. And i found and check little crack. I think that all this construction need more stiffness, cause sometimes i have shimmy
    6 points
  6. It looks GREAT in person. This was just one of the many shuttle runs we’ve done between Portland & Seattle to exchange parts. Here, @02_Pathy donated his old Falkens to me when he upsized on his rig. Watching him drive away, I can’t help but think it’s probably the best looking R50 out there!
    4 points
  7. A new addition to the barn this summer - these are day of sale pics. My goal had been a clone of my Pathy for eventual total parts interchangability or in house donor. An ‘02 would also get me the best OEM LS & a cabled throttle. I only had a limited time to purchase & overhaul it before it would be out of town for a year or so. [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] spotted this one & a month later we had inspected it and I bought it. It’s the exact same exterior color & built just one month after my Pathy. The tan interior doesn’t match my Pathy & all my spares - plus it will make it harder to obscure gear left in the truck - but overall, I’m happy to have it. Only 123K & once we maintenance it & freshen the suspension, it should last a long time. Let the overhaul & modding begin! Many thanks to [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] who has been heavily involved in every step of this process. As you can see - I didn’t even get it home before we’d removed the brushgaurds & he’d polished the headlights back to clarity.
    4 points
  8. Featured on @PathyDude17's YouTube Channel!
    3 points
  9. I swapped in the replacement JY fuel rail with injectors over the weekend and got her running again late yesterday night. I have now full power and I can actually redline again!
    3 points
  10. Leave it to the Russians to make a badass R50
    3 points
  11. Also heavily featured on @zakzackzachary's YouYube channel:
    2 points
  12. That’s good to hear! Yeah I prefer the looks of this one compared to the ARB it looks more “modernized/updated” compared to the ARB. I’m eventually going to put a winch in it, I’ll give those RUNVA’s a look! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  13. Nice! They're a very popular bar here in NZ and IMO are the best looking bar you can get for the R50. I actually prefer them to the ARB bar. Are you going to put a winch in it? I'd recommend the RUNVA brand in a 9500 lb. Great quality at a good price.
    2 points
  14. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  15. Thank you! Correct they do make several models for the R50 so this also gives more options in the bumper world. The brand is out of Australia but produced in Thailand just like how some model ARB bumpers were back in the day. I had to buy it out of a store in New Zealand because they were the only ones that could ship to the US, stores in Australia couldn’t ship to the US. Unfortunately MCC doesn’t have any US distributors Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  16. FIRST step of any 2001-4 R50 ownership - secure the powervalves! My new Q went under the knife with Dr. TowndawgR50 yesterday. After I bought this truck, it literally sat here in my drive until the parts came in and we could get this done. Having lost the pristine engine on my original owner Pathy, there was no way I was going to risk this truck. All 6 were in still in place, unlike the 5 missing screws & one displaced butterfly valve when my Pathy blew. These two were manufactured only 1 month apart. 15 years & 102K on mine when it went, 19 years & 123K on this one. As always, thanks a million[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] For any who haven’t done it on a late model auto R50: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1 (Keen eyes will note the OEM front bumper in the pic - I just brought that up from a visit to @‘02_Pathy in Portland with@TowndawgR50. Expect something interesting from him soon)
    2 points
  17. Stock diesel QD32Eti
    2 points
  18. Ok I’m going to need ALLLLL the details on this one. Holy crap that’s a nice build
    2 points
  19. Plus a few more pics because why not Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  20. Been quite some time but updated/upgraded the pathfinder since the last time I worked on it. I purchased some Warn Manual hubs for it as well as Method MR309 Grids in titanium gray on sale with 4.75” bs. The hubs went on super easy and I didn’t have to change my stock studs out as they were plenty long, I know people in the past had too but in my case I didn’t. With 265/70r17 tires that are a bit worn down I did still have ample room between the strut and the tire. With the new wheels I took off my wheel spacers so I am currently not running any spacers just solely the wheel. Driving around with the hubs unlocked you can tell a difference that there is less front end drag and that you can coast farther without having to be on the gas all the time. Nice little touches to the pathfinder in my opinion! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  21. There’s a rubber seal between the door and A pilar and I ran the wires in the channel of the rubber door seal and it pops out into the engine bay where the hood hinges are and they connect to the switch panel in the engine bay where [mention]RainGoat [/mention]helped tidy it up then a wire from the switch panel goes into the cabin via the clutch plate/hole underneath the brake booster Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  22. Sorry for not responding quick enough as I was packing and moving across the country and didn't have the time... https://www.monster4wd.co.nz/product-page/mcc-falcon-707-02-winch-bar-for-nissan-pathfinder-terrano-r50 here's the link that I bought it from but their domain is not connected. Also for the record never "repeatedly avoided all requests" when I simply just didn't reply when I was busy. Have a nice day
    1 point
  23. I run generic poly bushings in the rear, installed around the same time as the SuperPros. They’ve done well as far as I can tell, though I did see one with a split on it, but seemingly induced by some rock contact on the forward perch. I also have a box of those Autoacers that I’ve been meaning to put in a spare set of links, just haven’t gotten to it. And yeah, being a little liberal on the lubrication during assembly helps with not only the install but also the noise after install.
    1 point
  24. Late response, but 4x4parts (AC, Automotive Customizers) sells the front LCA bushings (each end of the LCA sold separately). The brand is SuperPro and they’re reputable. I’ve been running them on my truck for a few years, too. I usually refrain from buying from AC due to shipping costs, but they were surprisingly the cheapest option at the time for those exact ones. https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981476-pathfinder-front-lower-control-arm-front-bushings.html https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981483-pathfinder-front-lower-control-arm-rear-bushings.html
    1 point
  25. Yeah it wasn’t but the foreign exchange rate did help quite a bit! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  26. Probably wouldn't hurt to drill/cut some drip holes where water might trap before Rhino lining it.
    1 point
  27. Well, the holes are just one part of the equation. I think there are also plastic female clips that go into those holes, and male clips on the flares that snap into them. At least, that's how I recall it when I pulled my flares a few years ago to redo the weatherstripping. So you'd have to snap all those clips out, and they're pretty big clips IIRC. Otherwise, yeah, it might look goofy with holes, and unless you do spray on the backside of those holes, I'd expect water to just rust out the holes further. As for the door panels, I think they're just on with adhesive. I don't know if it was a different door skin underneath like any other door. I swear there was a pic of one sans door trim somewhere on the forum.
    1 point
  28. Wow looking great! Long time fan of your rig sir! I had to Google MCC, and it looks like they have several different options for R50's. Looks like they are out of Australia?- did they ship it to the states or is there a US distributor you ordered it from?
    1 point
  29. Summer update: Sadly no big updates because my Lokka order has been mia since early April but I've definitely been wrenching quite a bit. Found two rare bronze gray part outs the same week here locally. Sadly, both had destroyed hoods and bumpers, but I was able to grab a mesh grille, a back door and some other odds and ends. Fun fact about this grille is that it only exists in this color for the year 2001. One of the dudes parting out his wrecked r50 had some new in box Power Stop Z36 rotors and pads and a $400 250 Amp Power Bastards alternator. He insisted that I acquire them from him. I offered $60 for the alternator and brakes and he agreed (Hey, I told him to sell them for more online). The alternator will come later when I get around to fixing my valve cover leaks but in the mean time, I replaced wheel bearings and swapped rotors. The steelies kind of hide them but for the price I paid for the steelies last year and the brakes this year, who cares. Performance wise, I haven't noticed any difference in my city driving or wheeling. There was a break in period that gave them a softer bite when they still had the machining cross hatching on them but now that it's gone, they feel like stock. I haven't tested them on mountain highways or with highway towing yet, but I'll give a bit more of a review when that ever happens. For months, I've been driving with a popping noise in the front end. Link that story here: So basically, it wasn't the steering components like i though it was but rather the control arm bushing. So I've installed a steering rack in one form or another on a R50 for a total of 3 times now. I threw in some Polyurethane bushings from 4x4parts . com. The bushings look neat, but don't really add all that much to the feel of the steering. I figured the my gushing valve cover leak won't kill these in the meantime. I've managed to find some spare time in all of this to modify a piece of metal to be a missing link. It's a 1.5" x 1.5" 3/16 steel square tube from ebay. Cut with an angle grinder and drilled. Unfortunately, it's not tall enough to be a mid skid support. I'm going to have to get another 1" or 1.5" square tube and stack it in order for a flat mid skid to clear the oil. pan. Anyone every tried jacking up the truck from a missing link? I'm assuming that's a bad idea... More potential projects planned such as valve cover gaskets/pcv/water pump/alternator/pulleys/belts. Might make an attempt at a mid skid with the angle grinder too.
    1 point
  30. Flat spots on the the starter motor. That is the biggest issue with Remanufactured starters. If you can find an auto parts store that still has some new ones I think it is worth the extra to not have to change out remans. Most of the time they just replace the brushes and the flat spots are still there. The last time I found a Brand new one from Rock Auto and it was only $20 more than the reman, and I did not have to send back the core. They may be drying up though.
    1 point
  31. Looks Great!! Are you the KiwiFinder now?
    1 point
  32. Hell yes I did the outer drums Raingoat, I put 3 little glow in the dark skulls in there but you can hardly see them through the windows of the rim, do not confuse powdercoat with paint, it’s a polyester hybrid resin I use, 10x the hardness of paint and higher temperature and chemical resistance, no paint would last with brake fluid and dust continuously being flung at it, ( I’ve tried high temp caliper paint before, last a year at best) So what your seeing is the original pistons that have been coated on the tops with a ceramic paint literally called piston coat(Cerakote V-136) reflects the temps back into the combustion chamber good up 2000 fahrenheit prevents heat soak through the connecting rods and crank increasing efficiency. The skirts are coated with Cerakote P-109 Microslick a dry lubricant ceramic, it’s about 1mm thick will not interfere with tolerances and it has many advantages as well. these coating can actually be applied to combustion chambers,crank, valve faces, valve springs, exhaust ports and a few other places. This engine is going to be straight fire one day, ( Whenever I get to reassembling it haha) Honestly I should just do a build page. Been building this Pathfinder for 12 years now. These coatings have real world results and I will get it on a dyno to prove it eventually Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  33. Awesome. Inverted/flipped is understood, I have seen it done on other axles.
    1 point
  34. It's the suspension setup used on that front Patrol axle. I presume those are OE arms, but was the axle modified, or was it already LH drop? Either way, would love to see more pictures of the suspension and axle setup!
    1 point
  35. Front and rear diff from Nissan Safari 60 5.13 HF Standard gear front for Nissan Safari 60 61 Patrol if i correct understood your question
    1 point
  36. @Ermak Can you provide some info on that radius arm setup? Looks great!
    1 point
  37. Ha, I wish I had extra time. Hour here, hour there. Things just needed to get done, that's for sure. Just glad the PF is running smoothly again. Now I need to return focus to my Frontiers...both of them. Nice job there. Weather here is nice, too. You should come by and clean the decades worth of AZ dirt, dog hair, and fishing trips embedded in the carpet and seats of the beater Frontier for me. I'll install that LSD while you're at it, lol.
    1 point
  38. Good find! Glad you don’t have to drop the transmission, thats not a fun job. As for recommendations- Any item that requires taking off the intake to replace or is made easier by the current level of access. I believe I did my spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, some vacuum, coolant and fuel lines, fuel injector O-Rings as well as a few other items that were easily accessed with everything off the top of the motor. It definitely adds to the time and money invested but its well spent if you plan on keeping the rig for the long haul.
    1 point
  39. But how will my pathfinder's chi ever align without its vibration crystals??? Thanks for the answer. To the bin they go.
    1 point
  40. Yes you are correct on the sensor being in the T-case. I have only ever dealt with the complete Transmission and T-case together. This will be my first time having to swap out the T-case onto the junkyard Transmission. This will be my 4th time removing/replacing the Transmission. 1st time was to replace the original Transmission (bearing whine from being underfilled) replaced with NOS Nissan that came with T-case 2nd time was to replace the rear main seal. 3rd time was to replace the clutch after getting contaminated water on it from doing water crossing. (the backing plate was missing the seals) Already paid for the 97 transmission and waiting for them to tell me it is ready so I can pick it up. Apparently it is tested and guaranteed working. Just got a call from the junkyard. they said they pulled the plug on the Transmission and they said it has some chunks. so they are going to have one brought from another location for me to pick up.
    1 point
  41. last time I went looking for bushings I had to get them from Bandit 4x4. Not even sure if they are still selling them though.
    1 point
  42. On the off chance you haven't yet, check those power valve screws while the intake is apart!
    1 point
  43. Finding solitude at Browns camp lately it is a beautiful place.
    1 point
  44. Another mission success! I got this on a little bit ago, but haven't had a chance to post pics. You can find way more pics/info in my build thread here.
    1 point
  45. 1 point
  46. ugh, i have too many datsuns... -Kyle
    1 point
  47. OK so I got bored today and since there are A LOT of Headlight Problems coming up recently I wanted to make a complete write up on everything headlights. Ok to start the Factory headlight system is horrible in its design since it doesn’t incorporate a headlight relay, meaning all power from the headlights run from the headlight fuses through the tiny brass connecters in the headlight switch to the headlights which is far from ideal. Ok to start at the beginning the Power for the headlight first come from the battery. From there on the positive cable there is A black fusible link connector box. ( This send power to all electrical components minus the starter to check here when having random power issue the plastic is brittle from time and heat and in susceptible to damage.) Ok from there is 2 Fusible link connectors with 3 wires each. The Green connector is the one that has the power for the headlight light fuse the top prong in that connector supplies power to both headlight fuses. From there the 2 wires split and go to 2 headlight fuses . The box holding the fuses is mounted on the passenger side fender and houses 4 relays and the 2 fuses so there not hard to miss. (The holder is the one labeled 25235) From there headlight fuses the Red wire ( right side High and low beam ) and the Red wire with white stripes (left side high and low beam) route through the wiring harness going into the driver’s side fender well bulkhead going inside. If you remove the driver side inner fender plastic covering you can see the wiring loom going inside. From there the wiring splits off and goes Joint connector B (223m) which is at the driver’s side floor kick panel. From the connector the red and red/white stripes goes into another wiring loom heading to the steering column. (looking at it the 8 prong connector on the Left is for the headlights and parking lights 6 are for headlights and 2 are for the parking. The 3 prong on the Right are for the High beam switch over and the blue connector is for cruise control) At the Headlight switch connector the Red wire splits and powers the (Red with black stripe and Red with yellow stripe) (right side high low) and the Red with white stripes wires splits and power the (Red with Green stripe and red with Blue stripe) (left side high and low) Now that the wires are splits they all route through the headlight switch stalk into tiny brass/copper connections ( This is where a lot of problems can occur since there will wear out with time). The wires then go back out the headlight stalk into the headlight switch connector and back into the wire loom going down to Joint connector B again. From joint connector B the wiring goes back through the wiring loom splitting off to each headlight. The Red with black stripe and red with yellow stripe wiring going to the right side. The red with green stripe and red with blue stripe going to the left side. (Here is the wiring diagram that shows the wiring.) Also Nissan wiring color codes are alittle different then most so here is a chart to help for example (L) is actually blue for nissan. And finally we arrive at headlight socket LOL. If you’re wondering the ground wire for both headlight sockets goes to ground (12M) its located behind the battery screwed to the fender. ( I recommend cleaning that ground to keep your lights shining bright.) So there is a bunch of Useless info but should be a strong bases to go from in fixing all headlight problems. I do highly recommend installing a heavy duty headlight wiring harness with relays and sockets. The stock 18 gauge wiring is very tiny for what should be used and if you ever want to upgrade to higher watt bulbs or hid kits I highly recommend. You can buy you own 9004 heavy duty kit or make it with 2 heavy duty sockets and relays and 3 spools of different color wire. Just make sure you make or buy a kit with 12 gauge wiring to ensure you won’t have future problems. (This is the kit i purchased for $44 i could have made it for cheaper probably but the kit is well made and its 12 gauge and i like the cleaner look) (Too make life easier here is the simple install instructions for it.) Headlight Trouble Tree Chart. Steps. 1. First check to make sure you doesn’t have a burned out bulb. - Remove bulbs and verify filaments are there and not broken. 2. Verify you have 12v’s at both 15A headlight fuses which are located under relay cover on passenger side fender. - If no power at fuses check fusible links aren’t burnt and connections are solid going to fusible link box on battery terminal. 3. If power is present and fuses isn’t blown head inside the pathy. 4. Remove driver side Kick panel and find Joint Connector B (it will be a black 12 terminal connector bolted to the metal behind the kick panel trim. check for 12v on the solid red and red with white stripe wire. 5. If you don’t have 12v’s at the joint connector you have a broken wire between there and the engine bay. 6. If you have 12v’s continue and remove the 6 Philips screw holding the steering column trim on and disconnected the bigger headlight switch connector. 7. Once connector is removed check for power at the Solid red and red with white striped wire. - If power is there unbolt the headlight switch from column and plug the switch back in this will make back probing the wires easier. 8. Once the headlight switch is plug in turn the headlights and make sure one and check for 12v’s at the -Red with black stripe wire. (With High beams on) -Red with Yellow stripe wire. (With High Beams on) -Red with blue stripe wire. (With low beams on) -Red with green stripe wire. (With low beams on) 9. If 12v’s aren’t present at all of the wires you have a bad headlight switch. - You can removed the headlight switch and adjust and clean the internal copper contacts or you can purchase a new headlight switch for $45 to $55 at auto parts store. 10. Finally if you have power at all 4 wires you have an open connection between the headlight connector and the headlight sockets. -Check for burnt sockets (this will happen if you install High watt bulbs without upgrading to a heavy duty wiring harness. Thank you and have fun lol.
    1 point
  48. Completed my header install today. Using the Pacesetter headers requires one of the BUNG's to be plugged, I believe this is for an air pump. My 93 doesn't have one. So you need a 24mm 1.5 thread pitch plug or bolt. I hit 3-4 autoparts stores, A quick google search and someone referenced a Audi/VW Oil plug (v8). The part # is 028103059A I paid about $12 for it. All said I am happy with the quality of the pacesetters and glad I didn't try to wrap a set with header wrap as they are a tight fit. I had a tough time getting the crossover pipe on. Here are my install notes: Headers install from underneath the vehicle. You need to remove the front drive line as well as the mid pipe from the cat to the front of the crossover. You need the wiggle room to get the crossover pipe on. I used some dish soap to get the crossover pipe to SLIDE onto the headers, Without (and I tried 4-5 times) was a NO GO. Needed VW Oil Plug 028103059A to plug the 24mm upper bung. Needed to bend the EGR pipe slightly to get it in place. it may have been bent over the years. But it needs to be heated to bend it. Headers appear to be well made and fit perfectly on my 93 pathfinder. Motor is a VG33 and the larger studs fit the headers without any additional work. Hope this helps someone... I wished I had found a reference, Took me about 4 hours in total once the old was removed. The old manifold on the drivers side was a tough one to remove the downpipe due to access. I ended up pulled it from the block and then removing the bolts to the downpipe by moving it around.
    1 point
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