commodorehat

Anecdotally, I run KYB struts with OME springs and the ride is really nice.

Update: I found the drivers side part with the flare hole on ebay. ihttps://www.ebay.com/itm/185147885526?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nLfobrrwTwy&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=4yHEB6iNRXG&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY It looks like ebay only has the driver side and rockauto only the passenger (with flare holes), so maybe it'll work out lol. I ordered the rockauto drivers side without flare holes too before I found this so I'll let you know if its the same other than lack of fender hole when I get it (before I return)

Hey y'all. I've got a 98 SE with chrome bumper accents and the front chrome ends have acquired a decent amount of rust over its previous life in the northeast. I've been waiting for something to pop up at my local pick-a-parts but it seems most of the inventory over the last 6 months has either been 00 to 04 r50s, or been the non-chrome versions. Tired of waiting, I went to see what I could grab from the internet. Looking around I see a couple of places have them, but for my model with fender flares, I've been only able to grab the right one. (found it decently priced on rockauto here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=700842&cc=1316833&pt=15198&jsn=910) My question is this: I've not found the flared version for the other side online and in-stock anywhere (part# NI1005140 OEM F20250W486), but it seems like the only difference between the fender flare in the non-fender flare version is a small hole in the end to snap the flare onto. The non-flared version is available on rockauto, so I'm wondering if I can get that and then just drill a hole. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=700828&cc=1316833&pt=15198&jsn=909 Does any know if the hole is the only difference, or are there any dimension or part differences as well? OR does anyone of a line on a place that's selling the left one?

Hey Eric, I appreciate the reply. Yes, agreed. I didn't mention that specifically, but that was definitely part of it. The service manual had me check continuity on various parts of the circuit as well as voltage being supplied when the ignition was on. Basically the compressor runs on 2 circuits, bound by a relay. You have a circuit that has the dual-pressure sensor -> A/C switch -> Fan switch -> ground, and you have a circuit that runs to the compressor -> ground that is only complete when the first circuit completes. The service manual has you systematically check that 1) each circuit has voltage, and 2) that there's continuity between each link. It was only when I found that there was no continuity between the dual pressure sensor and the A/C switch, is when I broke out the short detector and ran it along the wire to find the breakage. It was a good learning experience since I had never dove into electrical issue diagnosis. I know its mentioned a bunch in this forum that has been so helpful to search, but NICO club has the service manuals for pathys. https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals Between that in searching here I've been able to DIY pretty much everything since I bought my R50.

Just following back up after I found the issue... It was a bad wire between the dual pressure switch and the A/C switch. By walking through the service manual diagnosis steps for a compressor clutch not engaging, I narrowed it down so that I knew there was something fishy between the dual pressure switch and the A/C switch. From there I ended up getting a cheap short detector from amazon and ran it along the wire harness that runs between dual pressure back to the dash A/C switch, and found the spot where the signal drops. Turns out the harness was damaged there. I must've accidentally cut it on some previous work. Here's the short detector... it worked pretty good for the price: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC4X28Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details My advice for DIY A/C diagnosis is to follow the service manual steps. They were systematic and worked pretty well for me in diagnosing the electrical problem.

So I went the AC Switch route and I think there's something fishy between the dual pressure switch and the A/C switch. The switch itself has continuity, but there is not full continuity between the switch harness and the dual pressure harness (though it does read something, also there should be full continuity between the switch harness and the fan harness and there is not full continuity as well. The A/C switch itself seems fine, I get continuity when the button is engaged and no continuity when not engaged. Is there anything in between the two that could go bad? I tried to get continuity by poking through the wires to eliminate the harnesses, and got the same readings.

So over the winter my A/C stopped blowing cold air on my 98 SE. I'd like to fix this myself and wanted to bounce what I know off of y'all to validate where I'm at. This is what I know for sure so far: Compressor is not getting the power it needs to kick the clutch on (< than 1 volt is going into the connector) A/C Relay is good (swapped it with a known working one, as well as checked the continuity, and made sure it was getting ~12 volts to two of the connections) A/C Fuse is good (swapped it with a working one) Dual pressure sensor is good (checked continuity and verified ~5 volts in/5 volts out) A/C system Pressure is good enough. (I hooked a A/C pressure gauge up and got ~70-80 psi on both high and low on a 70-something degree F day) I've got the nissan service manual (from NICO club) and looking at the troubleshooting steps, maybe the A/C switch is the next thing to check. I also haven't checked the ECM and whether that is outputting power to the right terminals. If I were to dig under the dash, which one would be the first to check? The ECM (on the driver side) or the A/C switch (on the passenger)? Or is there something else I should look at based on what we know? Oh one more thing... Strangely (or not), by accident I was able to engage the compressor clutch from dual pressure sensor harness when I accidentally left the multimeter on continuity and put it in the sensor harness with ground. Did this give it a higher voltage than the 5 I read going through there? Anyways that at least showed me the compressor was capable.

Old thread but I'll put this here for anyone wondering similar. I got a set of 4 universal spring insulators on amazon for 20 bucks and put them on the bottoms of my front springs. I didn't put an insulator on the top because there's a thick rubber seat that's already there. The universals fit and work well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C5X9JNH3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just airdrop to my macbook and export from the default photos app. It has options for quality and size. Assuming other photo editing apps have similar (there's probably some free apps on iphone but haven't researched)

This is great info. Thanks

Thank you! Its in great shape other than some understandable 25 year old car stuff. Its driving really smooth on the road after replacing shocks/struts and the engine is quiet. The coating is wearing from the wheels/starting to flake. The front corner end bumper covers are rusted thru, currently covered with some chrome tape (looking for a pre-facelift r50 with chrome to pop up at one of my pick your parts). The front seatbelts don't retract (though I've heard they are under lifetime warranty so I might try with the dealership). Other than that its really nice and well cared for.

Hey all, New member here. Got my 98 SE 4x4 last fall with about 98k miles single owner. Drove one in college in the late 90s and loved it. Was in the market for an inexpensive project vehicle that I could learn some auto mechanics on and turn into a capable 4x4 for some outdoor activities. Since I've been able to get the engine in good shape by changing belts, fluids, seals, water pump, as well as upgraded the suspension with an KYB/OME lift. I was also able to cash in on the strut tower rust recall. This website has been a treasure of info and am glad registration is back up. Looking forward to participating and keeping this place going.

I successfully changed my first timing belt/water pump/drive belts/cam and crank shaft seals thanks in large part to the info here. I'll share some tips from it here that I put on the npora facebook group a few weeks ago: My first timing belt replacement is done. Pathy runs smoothly. Replaced timing belt, water pump, cam and crankshaft seals, coolant hoses, and drive belts. Here are a few tips for anyone who tries this in the future... The 1A auto YouTube tutorial on R50s is superb. Following it will set you right - https://youtu.be/awjqoFUUPSo?si=6Avjp9Q6ivaIk-UO the Nissan repair manual is good to have as well. (get it on the NICO Club forum) Use the OEM crankshaft seal. I went through 3 seals because the inner lip would get caught on the shaft and fold under. The Nissan seal was built better (and pre-lubed) The harmonic balance puller is fantastic for pulling the crank pulley right off. I bought a kit for like 20 bucks on Amazon (you can also get a loaner from the autoparts store), and got the bolts for it at the hardware store (m6 x 1.0 x 75mm - same size as the long upper left bolt in the lower timing cover) An impact wrench is key. Used it for getting off/on the crankshaft bolt and the cam bolts without turning the shafts. I also used a camshaft holder tool once the belt was off. I debated on whether to remove the air compressor like the video suggests or try to jimmy the timing cover off around it. I was able to get the timing cover off with some work, but getting it on was tougher, and scary (I didn't want to break my A/C or mess with my timing bel. Moving the compressor was easier than I thought. The power steering tensioner bolt was a PITA because of where it was located. a 12mm ratcheting wrench would've been nice Tighten your belts. The first time I turned on the engine it was like the loudest chalkboard screech I've ever heard. Finally, there's a right-angle coolant hose that sits behind the timing belt cover that's a PITA to get off/on. I ended up having success using a chisel to pry it on. Make sure the clamp tabs aren't facing out when you put the timing cover back on, or it can bend the cover, possibly interfering with the belt. I of course read this in the repair manual after the cover and cam sprockets were back on.

Hey all, New member here. Got my 98 SE 4x4 last fall with about 98k miles single owner. Drove one in college in the late 90s and loved it. Was in the market for an inexpensive project vehicle that I could learn some auto mechanics on and turn into a capable 4x4 for some outdoor activities. Since I've been able to get the engine in good shape by changing belts, fluids, seals, water pump, as well as upgraded the suspension with an KYB/OME lift. I was also able to cash in on the strut tower rust recall. This website has been a treasure of info and am glad registration is back up. Looking forward to participating and keeping this place going.