CamperDan

That's awesome I'm glad it all worked out for you, there's nothing better than a no parts required repair. Chris.

Yes and at least this way he can avoid having to replace the entire ECU and then having to get it reprogrammed to his R50! Chris.

The chip or driver in question can be found on Amazon, but I just check and it's currently showing as unavailable. Here's a link to the part, hopefully it becomes available again soon https://amzn.to/3IO3UYJ Chris.

Hopefully none of the transmission cooler hard lines were damaged as it doesn't look like Nissan sells them anymore. If you do end up needing replacement lines let me know and I might be able to locate them at one of my local Junkyards. Chris.

The first thing you would want to do is check for leaks, the most common areas to check for leaks is where the aluminum lines are crimped onto the rubber hose on the low-pressure a/c line. This is the line that runs along the top front edge of your engine, if it's leaking it will be wet and greasy looking. If it's not leaking and you have verified the system has the correct amount of freon in it, then you can try cleaning your condenser and evaporator core. Here's a few videos for you to watch on the subject, there's also links in the video description for what you would need to clean your condenser and evaporator core. Chris.

I wouldn't be able to provide you with feedback regarding your question about the vibration while in gear at a stop, as I don't ever stay in gear while at a stop. No relearn was done after replacing my MAF Sensor either. Chris.

My viewers on YouTube are always asking me where I got my metal valve covers from, lol I didn't even know they were a thing. I have a lead on a set from a 2001 SE R50 Pathfinder at my local junkyard if you are still in the market for some! Chris.

Lol no I was talking about a YouTube video I was watching at the time I made that post, it was about a mechanic making an educated guess and using his tribal knowledge to fix an abs issue on a Buick and it actually working out. Just like I did when trying to figure out my stumbling idle issue. (Completely unrelated to what we have been discussing though) Sorry for the confusion. More over my R50 is a 5-Speed manual 4X4 and I would feel the vibration when stopped at a red light, this primarily happened when stopped at a red light with the transmission in neutral at operation temp, not a fan of staying in gear with with my foot on the clutch at a red light. In recent days my rpm's would dive before I could even bring the vehicle to a full stop. Chris.

Yes I replaced my IAC Valve with an OEM HITACHI one last March. No idle issues or poor fuel economy prior to that an even after. I didn't start experiencing these issues until around July last year. The only reason I replaced my IAC Valve was because it looked like coolant was starting to seep from the gasket between the throttle body and IAC Valve. Sadly I did not go with the OEM HITACHI MAF because of the cost, it's $171.00 plus taxes and shipping on Rockauto or $190.00 on Amazon. This might change later, as I was trying to make my work or (hypothesis) as cheap as possible. Chris.

I recommend having your Alternator and battery tested. Chris

I too have just noticed some condensation dripping from my muffler and the union where the muffler bolts up to the tail pipe last night while diagnosing our rough idle issue. Check out theses picks I took. I also Just replaced my Bank 2 Downstream oxygen sensor due to a heater code, I was also getting a pending lean code P0174 fuel sys-Lean-B2 as well after replacing my downstream sensor but strangely not before that. So I don't know if it might be related to this issue some how. https://imgur.com/a/qv0FANl Chris.

I have learned a great deal from watching Eric O of SMA, kind of funny I'm currently watching a video of him troubleshooting an ABS issue and making an educated guess. If you ask me it's right in sync with the issue at hand that we are having with our R50's. So Unfortunately I was not able to clean my OEM MAF Sensor because I was not able to locate any MAF cleaner at the local parts stores(they were all sold out for some strange reason). I guess you can say that my OEM MAF Sensor was no longer serviceable due to a rusty and stripped-out screw, so I would not have been able to remove it from the housing to thoroughly clean it anyway so I just replaced it with the new sensor and housing I ordered. From what I could see through the mesh on the front of the old MAF housing the filament was indeed dirty, so long story short it seems to have fixed my stumbling idle issues, and my R50 idles smooth again. The replacement MAF now reads closer to 3.5 g/s once the engine has reached operating temp vs the previous 2.97 g/s with the old MAF Sensor, I would also like to mention that I now have better acceleration too, and the fuel trims are slowly working their way back down. So If you tried cleaning your MAF and that didn't correct the issue just replace it. Here's a picture of my OEM MAF Sensor and housing. Respectfully your R50 rough idle and poor fuel economy "Guinea Pig" https://imgur.com/a/O5RxWIk Chris.

I haven't cleaned my maf sensor yet, but I was looking at some live data on my scan tool and at first I was seeing a little over 3.5 g/s at idle now I'm seeing 2.97 g/s consistently. So I think we might be on the right path regarding your under-reporting hypothesis. My fuel trims are extremely high as well, I'm currently averaging about 200 miles per tank prior to this issue I was averaging about 280 miles per tank. I ordered a new maf sensor, but before I swap it out I'm gonna try cleaning the OEM one and report back with my findings. Chris.

Where you able to get this issue resolved? Chris.

Here's a link https://amzn.to/494qrfv Chris.

I cleaned mine a few times in the past before this started happening. I'll try cleaning it again over the weekend to see if it changes anything. Chris.

My 2001 R50 Pathfinder 4X4 Manual, recently started doing the same thing. It's almost like it's about to stall when I'm stopped at a red light in neutral, it does this about 3-5 seconds after coming to a stop but it seems a bit intermittent in my case, anyway. Chris.

I know this is an old topic, I don't know if you noticed but there was a crack in your Evap Canister on the right side of the purge valve where it attaches to the Evap Canister at the 0:28 mark in your video. This too was the case for my leak as well, It seems to be a very common issue as I have seen a few examples of this before. I hope this will help others to narrow this leak down in short order, thanks again for sharing. Chris.

That's so awesome, basic trouble shooting for the win. I always say when in doubt look again. Glad you you were able to figure this out and now you can enjoy having music in your R50 once again. Chris.

Hello again ed08, I was able to acquire a piece of the OEM air filter box for your WD21. Today I found the air filter box on a 1991 WD21 however only one-half of it. Because half of it has a hole in it, so I just went ahead and took the half that was in good shape. I'm also still working on locating the intake tube to go along with it, unfortunately, that was already gone when I got to the junkyard. Here are a few pictures of what I have https://imgur.com/a/31kMJZi Chris.

Will do I will let you know when I have found one for you. Chris.

Hello ed08, I maybe able to help you locate an airbox/intake for your 1993 wd21 as I do come across them from time to time at my local junkyards. Chris.

I think it's best to just replace it, you wouldn't want this possibly ruining your new radiator. I'm just saying. Chris.

Hello Drew, yes you will have to have the replacement odometer flashed to reflect the correct mileage for your Pathfinder. I had to have this done once on one of my previous vehicles. Chris.

Ditto!