CamperDan

That's awesome, I think I seen that video in the past too, when in doubt look again! Chris.

man talk about going through the wringer, I just replaced the Alternator on my 2001 R50 Pathfinder 4X4 5-Speed a few weeks ago and it was not fun. It's also been my experience with my R50 you fix one thing and then something else pops up that needs fixing. After 3 years of owner ship I finally got my check engine light to go off and stay off. My advice is to keep fighting start with the cheap and easy stuff first and work your way up and good luck! Chris.

Sounds like you got lucky, I tried getting a replacement from eBay a few times in the past and no dice. I even got a known working one from @Dbot and it too did not jive with my R50. That's why I mentioned matching up the Part numbers on the back-side of the fob, but strangely that's what I did the first few time I got one. I eventually found two fobs that worked with my R50 from the junkyard, I then took that part number and ordered two of them from Amazon for $11.25 although on Amazon it said that it did not fit my R50 even though the part numbers were the same, however they did indeed work with my R50 lol! Chris.

I recommend looking for replacement unit on Amazon, just make sure to match the replacement fob with the same Part Number that's printed on the back of your current fob. That's what I did and I was able to locate two of them for $11.75 on Amazon lol!! Chris.

When it comes to the burning smell of trans or clutch material, if your WD21 is still on it's original clutch it might be a sign that it's starting to fail. My 2001 R50 4X4 5-Speed did the same thing shortly before my original OEM clutch gave up the ghost. Chris.

Everyone usually use KYB shocks and struts to replace their worn-out components and these are going for cheap on RockAuto here's a discount code 26541693695688324. You can also use the Bilstein 5100 Series https://amzn.to/3V3UdMN for the rear since you have a lift, but it will require some modifications to run these shocks on the rear of your R50. Chris.

Yeah used O.E.M junkyard parts are better than crappy new aftermarket parts any day. My ALTERNATOR recently gave up the ghost and I replaced it with a used O.E.M one from the junkyard and all is well again. Now at least when he swaps the fuel injectors around and the misfire moves he will know what to do from there. The con is having to tear things down again. Chris.

Ok so that rules out the MAF then. Chris.

If your scan tool reads live data take a look at your Mas airflow sensor and make sure it's reading at least 3.5gs as I had a very similar issue and just like your self once the engine was warmed up when ever I came to a stop at a red light I would experience a bit of a stumbling idle. Turned out to be a bad Mas airflow sensor that was under reporting data 2.97gs to be exact. Oh and I have a video you can checkout on said issue as well. Here's a link. Chris.

You are very welcome. Chris.

Hey there TexasJim, this topic has been covered quite a bit in the past, the search feature on this site is very helpful as well. Now with that said here is a link to a thread that will give you some insight on the subject. Chris.

That's awesome I'm glad it all worked out for you, there's nothing better than a no parts required repair. Chris.

Yes and at least this way he can avoid having to replace the entire ECU and then having to get it reprogrammed to his R50! Chris.

The chip or driver in question can be found on Amazon, but I just check and it's currently showing as unavailable. Here's a link to the part, hopefully it becomes available again soon https://amzn.to/3IO3UYJ Chris.

Hopefully none of the transmission cooler hard lines were damaged as it doesn't look like Nissan sells them anymore. If you do end up needing replacement lines let me know and I might be able to locate them at one of my local Junkyards. Chris.

The first thing you would want to do is check for leaks, the most common areas to check for leaks is where the aluminum lines are crimped onto the rubber hose on the low-pressure a/c line. This is the line that runs along the top front edge of your engine, if it's leaking it will be wet and greasy looking. If it's not leaking and you have verified the system has the correct amount of freon in it, then you can try cleaning your condenser and evaporator core. Here's a few videos for you to watch on the subject, there's also links in the video description for what you would need to clean your condenser and evaporator core. Chris.

I wouldn't be able to provide you with feedback regarding your question about the vibration while in gear at a stop, as I don't ever stay in gear while at a stop. No relearn was done after replacing my MAF Sensor either. Chris.

My viewers on YouTube are always asking me where I got my metal valve covers from, lol I didn't even know they were a thing. I have a lead on a set from a 2001 SE R50 Pathfinder at my local junkyard if you are still in the market for some! Chris.

Lol no I was talking about a YouTube video I was watching at the time I made that post, it was about a mechanic making an educated guess and using his tribal knowledge to fix an abs issue on a Buick and it actually working out. Just like I did when trying to figure out my stumbling idle issue. (Completely unrelated to what we have been discussing though) Sorry for the confusion. More over my R50 is a 5-Speed manual 4X4 and I would feel the vibration when stopped at a red light, this primarily happened when stopped at a red light with the transmission in neutral at operation temp, not a fan of staying in gear with with my foot on the clutch at a red light. In recent days my rpm's would dive before I could even bring the vehicle to a full stop. Chris.

Yes I replaced my IAC Valve with an OEM HITACHI one last March. No idle issues or poor fuel economy prior to that an even after. I didn't start experiencing these issues until around July last year. The only reason I replaced my IAC Valve was because it looked like coolant was starting to seep from the gasket between the throttle body and IAC Valve. Sadly I did not go with the OEM HITACHI MAF because of the cost, it's $171.00 plus taxes and shipping on Rockauto or $190.00 on Amazon. This might change later, as I was trying to make my work or (hypothesis) as cheap as possible. Chris.

I recommend having your Alternator and battery tested. Chris

I too have just noticed some condensation dripping from my muffler and the union where the muffler bolts up to the tail pipe last night while diagnosing our rough idle issue. Check out theses picks I took. I also Just replaced my Bank 2 Downstream oxygen sensor due to a heater code, I was also getting a pending lean code P0174 fuel sys-Lean-B2 as well after replacing my downstream sensor but strangely not before that. So I don't know if it might be related to this issue some how. https://imgur.com/a/qv0FANl Chris.

I have learned a great deal from watching Eric O of SMA, kind of funny I'm currently watching a video of him troubleshooting an ABS issue and making an educated guess. If you ask me it's right in sync with the issue at hand that we are having with our R50's. So Unfortunately I was not able to clean my OEM MAF Sensor because I was not able to locate any MAF cleaner at the local parts stores(they were all sold out for some strange reason). I guess you can say that my OEM MAF Sensor was no longer serviceable due to a rusty and stripped-out screw, so I would not have been able to remove it from the housing to thoroughly clean it anyway so I just replaced it with the new sensor and housing I ordered. From what I could see through the mesh on the front of the old MAF housing the filament was indeed dirty, so long story short it seems to have fixed my stumbling idle issues, and my R50 idles smooth again. The replacement MAF now reads closer to 3.5 g/s once the engine has reached operating temp vs the previous 2.97 g/s with the old MAF Sensor, I would also like to mention that I now have better acceleration too, and the fuel trims are slowly working their way back down. So If you tried cleaning your MAF and that didn't correct the issue just replace it. Here's a picture of my OEM MAF Sensor and housing. Respectfully your R50 rough idle and poor fuel economy "Guinea Pig" https://imgur.com/a/O5RxWIk Chris.

I haven't cleaned my maf sensor yet, but I was looking at some live data on my scan tool and at first I was seeing a little over 3.5 g/s at idle now I'm seeing 2.97 g/s consistently. So I think we might be on the right path regarding your under-reporting hypothesis. My fuel trims are extremely high as well, I'm currently averaging about 200 miles per tank prior to this issue I was averaging about 280 miles per tank. I ordered a new maf sensor, but before I swap it out I'm gonna try cleaning the OEM one and report back with my findings. Chris.

Where you able to get this issue resolved? Chris.