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Everything posted by XPLORx4

  1. If the diff is already installed, to check your ratio, chock the front wheels, lift one rear tire, shift transmission to neutral. Put a piece of tape on the top of the pinion yoke. Spin the tire one full revolution and count the pinion rotations. Just over 2-1/4 rotations is 4.63. A smidge under 2.5 rotations is 4.9
  2. If they are different ratios, you’ll have to swap the diff carrier onto your ring gear.
  3. Count the teeth on the ring gear. More teeth = higher numerically ratio.
  4. Is that part number indicated on their website catalog yet?
  5. Mag shank lug nuts are usually used for hub-centric wheels. Acorn-style nuts are typically used for lug-centric wheels. Unless you have wheels that are hub-centric, I would stick to acorn nuts. Also, I'm curious why you want to use 15" wheels instead of 16". The tire selection for 15" wheels is quite a bit more limited on 15's. It seems that many newer AT tires are only available for wheels as small as 16 and/or 17, but not 15.
  6. The plastic splash guard attaches between the radiator support and the steering rack crossbeam. Check this and related parts https://sfcreation.com/product/r50-mid-skid-plate-1-4-aluminium-96-04/
  7. Limited slip differentials are a more affordable way to get better rear end traction on most surfaces and in most driving conditions. However, in extreme cases such as rock-crawling or climbing very uneven and steep obstacles which could result in a rear tire having little to no traction, a locking differential provides the best solution in order to overcome the obstacle with the least potential for damage. Damage could be caused either by excessive wheel speed which could result in drivetrain damage, or excessive vehicle speed, which could result in loss of control, leading to undercarriage damage, body damage, and/or drivetrain damage. A very tight LSD could potentially cause some handling/cornering issues on pavement. If you do little to no rock-crawling, the LSD could be a satisfactory option. In my case, the effort/expense of pulling the third member, repacking the clutch pack to increase the breakaway torque, then reassembling it, was not worth the risk of discovering that it still might still not provide enough performance benefit for my style of 4-wheeling. It is for this reason that I opted to just go all-in with an ARB air locker. My R50 is air-lockable both rear and front, but it took a decade of wheeling for me to get to that point. Every driver's situation is different, so the approach to mods I would recommend is to run the trails you enjoy, get lots of seat time to learn how to drive within the vehicle capabilities, learn to choose good lines, and plan your vehicle upgrade path accordingly. Tires are probably one of the most important things to start with, with a lift being next. I would prioritize recovery equipment above drivetrain mods. A locking diff or tight LSD may only give you the ability to get you stuck further down the trail.
  8. LeakyQX4- the Bilstein bushings are the same dimensions on top and bottom. I have a 97, with a larger top shock post and a smaller bolt on the bottom mount. On the top, the bushing is the correct diameter for the post. On the bottom, the bushing is larger than the bolt, but I have sleeves/collars for the bushings that fit the ID of the bushing and the OD of the bolt. I believe the later model R50s have a larger lower shock post with the correct OD for the bushing, and a smaller upper bolt which needs a similar sleeve or collar.
  9. FYI, Bilstein 33-185569 are a slightly less expensive alternative to the recommendation above with similar performance. I have these on my 6" lifted R50.
  10. You can only reliably lift the front about 2” with only coil springs. You can also use strut spacers, which can potentially risk cv joint breakage on extreme terrain. For a higher lift, you need to install drop brackets/spacers between the main chassis and the IFS subframe/engine cradle, along with appropriately fabricated strut spacers which complement the drop brackets. This type of IFS lift for the R50 platform is referred to as a subframe drop or SFD. Other mods needed for a SFD lift are longer brake lines and a steering shaft extension. A reinforcement bar sometimes referred to as a “missing link” is also recommended. This bar installs between the left and right front lower control arms’ rear mounts to enhance the strength of the suspension system. A full SFD front lift can easily exceed $1000 The most reliable suspension lift that fits 32” diameter tires and doesn’t require sheet metal trimming is a 2” coil spring lift, using stock front struts such as KYB excel-G (or even your current ones if they’re still in good condition), and longer rear shocks such as Bilstein 33-185552.
  11. You can remove the part of the intake that hangs below if it becomes an issue after you install an aftermarket bumper. The large size of the intake is mainly to reduce resonance. You can fabricate your own intake piping behind the fender if you want. To get better off road performance with your current lift, you can remove the rear sway bar and install longer rear shocks if you haven’t already done that. Depending on how much clearance there is between your strut and the tire shoulder with your current wheels, you should be able to fit 265/75R16 tires without issue. (If there’s insufficient clearance you can install wheel spacers or different wheels) You might need to do some minor trimming or heat gun re-forming of the plastic wheel well liner.
  12. Ok, so I just looked more closely at your photos. You can run 265/75s easily with little to no modifications, especially after you install a steel bumper. Remove your side steps and install proper rock sliders.
  13. What kinds of trails do you enjoy running? I have done some pretty significant rock crawling with only 32s or 265-75-16s and a 2” AC lift, which I had for over 15 years. I’ve got a steel bumper, winch, rock sliders, low range 3.7 crawler gears in the TX10 part time transfer case, and dual air lockers. All that served me very well until I finally got a 4” subframe drop to add to the 2” lift, and 6” rear springs, along with 285-75-16s. To be honest, I don’t think it made as much difference in capability on extreme terrain as lockers and crawler gears. Sure, I can fit 33s instead of 32s, but that’s only 1/2” more ground clearance. The extra 4” of clearance from adding the SFD only means I can be lazier and sloppier about picking a line than before. I personally don’t think a SFD gets you as much bang for your buck as decent tires, armor, winch, lockers, or crawler gears. If you have a green light to spend money on your rig, get crawler gears if you have the TX10 case. It’ll be a night and day difference, especially with a 5 speed manual.
  14. Yes. It's also not an OBDII reported signal, either. It may be available via Nissan CONSULT, but I've never seen AT Temp available via OBDII on the R50.
  15. I don't mean to be the bearer of bad news, but here's the reality. Most shops will not generally touch an R50 when it comes to lifting them, primarily because they use an uncommon-for-4x4s strut-based independent front suspension and shops don't want to accept the liability from the side-effects caused by lifting them, namely broken CV axles if you use tall spacers or strut "topping out" issues with lift coil springs, plus camber issues. Lifting the R50 causes a whole bunch of side-effects that scare off shops who offer warranties on their work. Add in the fact that many shops won't install customer-supplied parts (which you would have to source from the vendor(s) of your choice), and DIY becomes a more realistic option. That being said, you'll might get lucky if you call around various shops that do suspension repairs (not necessarily off-road mods or lifts) and ask if they'll install customer supplied parts or if they'll work on your truck if you waive the warranty. You can just tell them that your original springs are sagging/old, and you purchased new ones. If you tell them it's for a lift, they'll usually turn you down due to potential liability issues. After lifting, you'll need an alignment and shops will be afraid that because lifting requires camber bolts, they might be held liable by you for being unable to get alignment in spec. Even a reputable franchise such as 4WheelParts may not want to work on your R50 because they're generally not familiar with them. Domestics and Toyotas are their domain. Still, it can't hurt to try, but I'm afraid you'll find your options are pretty limited when modding your vintage Nissan. Most R50 owners have figured out how to make these mods themselves or find another R50 enthusiast to help them out.
  16. Bilstein 33-185552 can be adapted to work with a 2.5" lift.
  17. As I mentioned earlier, I have never seen this done on any R50 before. AFAIK, you would be the first person to do this, and you'd be a true pioneer. If it's a project that's worth investigating, peer into your engine bay and see if it's even possible to have one serpentine belt snake around the alternator, water pump, PS and AC pulleys. The PS pulley uses a V-belt and the AC belt is narrower than the alternator belt, so you'll need to replace the P/S pump pulley and the AC pulley at the minimum, and potentially the harmonic balancer. If you can manage to get all of the pulleys into one plane and route the belt so it doesn't rub anything, you're good. Once you've done this, be sure to post back with your results. It's always fun to see what kinds of creative solutions people come up with.
  18. Re: serpentine belt. I don't think it's been done. Little to no advantage considering the expense/effort. Re: airbags. Get a set of Airlift helper bags if the rear squats too much when loaded. I had a set installed for many years until I lifted the suspension, which made the airbags redundant and ineffective.
  19. Running stock wheels on a 97, you can fit 31x10.50R15 tires without a suspension lift. You may need to do very slight trimming of the front fender liners or the front mudflaps.
  20. If you need to replace the entire subframe, you’ll want to remove the steering rack and front differential and its mounting brackets first, if for nothing more than weight reduction. Then, when the engine is supported (via hoist or floor jack) and the lower control arms are no longer attached, the subframe is ready to be removed. If you’re using a floor jack to support the engine, the tricky part will be evenly supporting the subframe and lowering it away from the chassis with enough clearance to slide it out, then getting the new subframe lined up and installed. If you have a 2 post lift and a transmission jack, of course the job will go much easier.
  21. What you've described are strange symptoms. I do know that the VSS connects directly to the IC before it gets to the computer. Does your O/D OFF light flash when your start the engine? You could theoretically unplug your VSS from the passenger side of the transfer case and see if the symptoms change. If the problem persists, that would point to an issue with your IC. If the symptoms change or the speedometer doesn't move, it could be a problem with the VSS or the wiring from the VSS to the IC.
  22. If you already have the motorcycle carrier and the motorcycle, you should just drive around locally and see how it feels. Before you attach everything, measure your front and rear ride height, then repeat after you've loaded up the bike. If it feels unsafe locally, it'll probably feel unsafe on a road trip. Similarly, if it feels safe locally, you're probably fine if you keep to the same driving patterns during your road trip.
  23. I saw a video a while ago in which the owner removed a fair portion of his car's interior that he didn't need (pretty much everything except the driver's seat) and he got better fuel economy and performance from the weight savings.
  24. I don't know how the bypass valve is supposed to function, but from what I've read, it doesn't seem like a common cause for this code. Have you tested the other parts of the evap system? Based on the rusty condition of your bracket, I would recommend checking your hard EVAP lines running from the EVAP canister to the engine bay.
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