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Everything posted by XPLORx4

  1. They're the same shock. It's just the way certain resellers list their products. I can see how it would be confusing. The 5125 is technically a 5100-series shock, since Bilstein also has a 4600-series and there's a need to differentiate which series the shock belongs to.
  2. They appear to be slightly different lengths. https://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/product.cfm/id/15115/name/Bilstein-B8-5125-Shock-Absorber-Jeep-Cherokee-CJ5-CJ5A-Grand-Wagoneer-J10-J20-Ford-Bronco-Jeep-Cherokee-CJ5-CJ5A-CJ7-Grand-Wagoneer-J10-J20-Toyota-Pickup-Front-Rear-33-186542 https://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/product.cfm/id/15025/name/Bilstein-B8-5125-Shock-Absorber-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-Rear-33-185552 33-185552 is the shock to use for a 2" lift. You'll get much better rear axle articulation, especially if you remove the rear sway bar.
  3. Pull the glass bulb (#194) out of the plastic socket. You can replace the glass bulb with an equivalent LED (#194).
  4. Hi! Thanks for the followup message. What I'm thinking is this: On the upper mount, which is slotted, you would place a square plate that on top has holes drilled into it to accommodate the studs. On 3 different plates, holes would be placed in the center, 1/2" offset, and 1" offset (for example, assuming the total slot length is 2") These three plates would work for 5 positions: -1", -1/2", 0", +1/2", +1", each corresponding to a different gross camber adjustment. Fine tuning could be done using camber bolts if needed, although I'd rather use the original large-diameter strut-to-knuckle bolts. On the underside of the plate are two raised slots that mate perfectly into the slots on the upper mount. So, this piece fits into the slots and makes it so that the bolt holes cannot move even if the nuts aren't fully tightened. After the slotted plate is in place, the washers and flange nuts are installed and tightened. I assume this piece would be machined out of a piece of billet material. Without torque specs, I tightened the nuts to 95 ft-lbs, and I did tighten them initially with the weight not fully on the ground, in order to get a ballpark camber adjustment. That kind of caused the lower mount to skew a little, so it was a little bit of a fuss to get them both lined up. Subsequent adjustments were made after the truck weight was fully on the struts. Of course I had to measure the camber with the weight on the ground, then estimate how much to move the lower mount relative to the upper in order to improve the camber.
  5. It does not hurt to use higher octane fuel in the 3.3L. It doesn't make it run any better, though, since the 3.3L is designed to run just fine using 87. The 3.5L is a higher-compression engine and is designed to run best using 91 or more. (It'll run on 87, but timing will be retarded to prevent detonation and performance/mpg will suffer.) If you can get premium for cheaper than 87, go ahead and use what's most affordable! Just don't ever use E85.
  6. One last thing- Do you have a check engine light? If so, repair the cause of it.
  7. Replace your fuel filter, check the air filter and if it's dirty, replace it. Spray off the radiator from the engine side to the grille. Check that your brakes aren't dragging by shifting into N on a flat surface and verify that it coasts as expected. Check and if needed, replace the fluid in the transmission, transfer case, and differentials. Check the condition of your spark plugs and replace if needed.
  8. For those of you who have installed the Pines to Spines SFD strut spacers, I have some questions. 1. How much did you torque the 2 19mm nuts holding the upper mount to the lower mount? 2. How is the alignment holding up? I adjusted the camber on my spacers which resulted in the studs being approximately in the middle of the adjustment range. However, after a full weekend of rock-crawling and driving on very rough roads, the studs had moved all the way outboard, which resulted in being camber-positive. What is your experience using the spacers? I was thinking that they need a selection of fixed adjustment plates to position the bolts in a particular location to keep the bolts from sliding. Probably 3 different plates per side for 5 camber-adjustment angles. The plates would essentially be square with 2 slotted channels that nest into the camber adjustment slots. Round holes would be drilled into the slotted channels: Max Positive Camber Plate 1: (O====) Plate 1: (O====) Med. Positive Camber Plate 2: (=O===) Plate 2: (=O===) Neutral Camber Plate 3: (==O==) Plate 3: (==O==) Plate 2 would be reversed to provide med. negative camber, and plate 1 would be reversed to provide max negative camber. If there are alternatives to ensuring that the camber doesn't change because the bolts slip, please provide your experience. Thanks!
  9. https://www.ebay.com/itm/384742666298?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Knu3hKWGSjm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  10. Your speedo/odo are operated solely by the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) located on the side of the transfer case. If the VSS is giving erratic readings, there's an electrical short or bad electrical connection somewhere either in the VSS wire harness leading to the back of the gauge cluster or there is something faulty with your gauge cluster. The traces and solder joints have been known to crack or fail over time. Also, the VSS signal goes first to the gauge cluster, and then it goes to the PCM. So, naturally if there's a bad signal reaching the gauge cluster, the PCM will get the same bad signal.
  11. To replace the springs, jack up the axle high enough so you can place jack stands under the rear trailing arm mounts on the chassis. Remove the tires and lower the axke. Then, you need to remove the lower shock bolts and the sway bar mounts from the axle. also loosen the rear brake manifold so you don’t overstretch the brake line. Once that’s done, you’ll be able to drop it low enough to replace the springs. To replace the left spring, put the floor jack under the right shock mount and raise it to flex the axle. The left spring will basically fall out. To replace the right spring, jack under the left shock mount.
  12. Bank 1 is passenger side. Try replacing the downstream O2 sensor first. It’s the one after the cat. “V” configuration engines have 4 O2 sensors. Inline engines (with only one exhaust manifold) have only 2 sensors.
  13. I believe the inner joint is easier to service than the outer. Once you remove the CV axle, you'll see that the inner joint has a cap to seal the grease in. You can pop it off by tapping on the cup to get the axle and roller bearings to press against the seal. Once the cap is off and you clean the grease out, there's a snap ring holding the bearings on the axle shaft. Remove that, and the inner boot can be removed and reinstalled. It'll be very messy, so wear some decent nitrile gloves and have plenty of shop rags to wipe up the grease. Pro tip: to remove the CV axle, unbolt the lower control arm from the subframe. A 1/2" impact driver makes short work of it; it's way easier than unbolting the strut from the knuckle.
  14. Sounds like it's the starter. If it does start after several attempts and the engine cranks quickly, meaning the battery is well-charged, it's likely the starter solenoid. I had a similar problem a few years ago. I would try to start the engine, but it would just click. After two or three quick twists of the key, it would finally start. I replaced the starter and all is back to normal.
  15. Yeah, it could be the sensor. I had low brake fluid at one time, and the BRAKE light illuminated. I added brake fluid, but the light didn't go out. I checked the reservoir again and noticed that the little white float sensor had become stuck and wasn't floating to the surface. I jiggled it around to let it rise to the surface, and the BRAKE light extinguished.
  16. As mentioned above, the warning light says "BRAKE" not "PARKING BRAKE". This light does not glow when you simply depress the brake pedal, nor does it glow if the brake switch is stuck (which would keep the rear brake lights on all the time.) The warning light indicates that something regarding the braking system needs attention, whether it's the parking brake being engaged or low brake fluid level, which lowers as the brake pads become more worn. Don't just top off the brake fluid; check your front brake pads, too. They may be due for replacement soon.
  17. Does this happen on all long drives at between 60-70mph, or only on certain sections of the road? It is possible that the road grade is just barely steep enough to cause the TC to unlock and lock. Do you have oversized tires? Does it also happen when you lighten up on the accelerator or only when under low load?
  18. I have manual hubs on my Pathfinder, and I have had it towed backwards (by a tow truck) before without any issues. You just need to be sure to lock the steering wheel and install magnetic tail lights on the hood of the Pathfinder while it's being towed.
  19. Go with KYB struts. You can purchase the rubber isolators separately from various online Nissan parts dealers. Replace the strut bearings and bump stop/boots as well. The correct Bilstein shock for a 2" lifted Pathfinder is 13-185552. With a 16" or 17" wheel with the correct offset, you can fit a 32" tire after some trimming or heat-remolding of the front plastic liners. You won't need to trim sheet metal, but you may need to remove or trim mud flaps. I have Ultra 175 Rogue wheels, 16x8 with 10mm offset. I was able to fit 265/75R16 tires with minor rubbing after trimming plastic wheel well liner. Tires cleared the strut tower as well. Camber bolts may be a good mod if you notice positive camber after lifting it. Manual locking hubs do prevent excessive wear and tear on the front CV boots while driving in 2WD. I have owned my 97 LE for 23 years. It has over 210K miles now. It's been lifted for 22 of those years. Ran 31x10.50R15 tires from 1999-2003, 32x11.50R15 tires from 2003-2006, 265/75-16's from 2006-2017. 285/75R16 tires 2017-present.
  20. When I upgraded my audio system, I replaced the Bose head unit, speakers, and amp. I wasn’t looking for a competition sound system, just something a little better than stock. I did add a subwoofer. In order to save money and avoid losing cargo room, I shoehorned an Alpine MRP-F450 amp into the cavity where the OEM Bose amp used to live. I have the amp powering the front speakers, with the rear channel bridged to power the subwoofer, a JL Audio Stealthbox. The head unit powers the rear speakers. As far as I’m aware, the stock Bose amp cannot be bridged to power a subwoofer. Besides, the Bose system is kinda strange anyway. The front speakers are amped in each door, and the rear speakers are driven by the amp behind the cargo panel. The head unit has no line-level output.
  21. The only difference between the steering racks on the early model R50s (XE/LE vs SE) is the turning radius. XE and LE originally came with 235/70R15 tires and SE came with 265/70R15. The XE/LE racks allowed for more steering angle at full lock left or right. To avoid rubbing with larger tires, the SE rack has a slightly reduced steering angle. So, if you have an XE or LE, you can install a rack from any model and if you happen to get an SE rack, you’ll just have a slightly increased turning radius. If you have an SE and you install an XE/LE rack, you might get some increased rubbing, especially on the fuel line cover at the rear of the right front wheel well. I have a 97 LE, and with 32x11.50R15 tires, 15x8 wheels and 2” of lift, I had persistent rubbing at full right steering, so I would just back off a bit to reduce the rubbing. I now have 6” of lift, and with 285/75R16 tires on 16x8 wheels, I don’t have rubbing at full right steering lock.
  22. If something in front is worn or loose, it’ll potentially induce a steering movement without your input. This could result in slight side to side body roll that feels the same as rear sway.
  23. The "roll over" sway is generally caused by bad lower control arm bushings. The upper links do less to locate the axle forward/aft, they primarily keep the axle from "wrapping" during acceleration or braking. The lower links do more to keep both sides of the axle in the same relative position beneath the car. If you're convinced the front suspension is OK, I would revisit the condition of the bushings in the rear lower links. It is possible that they're bad or were damaged during installation. You can check to see if the rear axle moves fore/aft when applying throttle by chocking the front wheels and checking for movement of the lower links at either end of the mounts when an assistant shifts the transmission into R or D and applies light throttle. You can also check to see if the tires move fore/aft when this happens. If either the left or right wheel moves fore/aft when throttle is applied, the bushings are bad. I recommend installing polyurethane bushings as the best countermeasure to deter the death wobble.
  24. By "rear sway" I assume that you mean that you feel a steering movement caused by the rear axle shifting under certain throttle positions while driving in straight line. If you mean that the rear end tends to sway or lean more than you desire during cornering maneuvers, it does seem like you covered the bases, except for replacing the springs, which I assume are stock. If you are still experiencing a steering motion after overhauling the rear suspension, I would suggest investigating the front suspension components, such as lower control arm bushings, tie rod ends, and ball joints. What shocks did you install?
  25. Check rear pan hard rod bushings and front lower control arm bushings. How's your tire wear and alignment?

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