XPLORx4

I saw a video a while ago in which the owner removed a fair portion of his car's interior that he didn't need (pretty much everything except the driver's seat) and he got better fuel economy and performance from the weight savings.

I don't know how the bypass valve is supposed to function, but from what I've read, it doesn't seem like a common cause for this code. Have you tested the other parts of the evap system? Based on the rusty condition of your bracket, I would recommend checking your hard EVAP lines running from the EVAP canister to the engine bay.

Not sure if this reply will be relevant, but I'm referring to the thrust washer that slides onto the end of the CV axle shaft and rides against the inner wheel bearing. It's tapered on one side. The flat side faces out.

BTW, when you remove the CV, be sure to also pull off the thrust washer if it doesn't come off with the CV axle, since you don't want to lose that, and replacement thrust washers are not included with new CV axles.

If you don't drive it through water or in dirty environments, it should be OK to drive for a short distance.

Does the power assist seem weak? That is, is it hard to steer? Does the pump make any whining or rattling sounds while the engine is running? How dark is the fluid? Hopefully it's good, since you've recently replace the rack and pinion. The sound you hear when turning from a left full lock is likely not the PS pump, since it's unaware of the position of the rack. The sound could be a worn bushing or a bad strut bearing, or it could be an issue with the rack. As previously mentioned, try tightening the belt or replacing it to get rid of the squeak. If you do end up replacing the pump, it's pretty easy, although perhaps a bit messy, since you'll need to drain the fluid. Besides the belt tensioner bolt, there are just a couple other bolts holding the pump in place. Those plus removing the PS fluid hoses is about all it takes.

Yours does not match what's shown on this site? https://www.fixya.com/cars/t27270022-map_sensor_located_nissan_pathfinder

I agree that if you're doing the 4wd conversion with a TX10, you'll definitely want to install t-case crawler gears and a 4.63 final drive ratio. I have had 4x4parts' 3.7:1 crawler gears in my Pathfinder since 2006, and I cannot imagine having to go back to the stock 2.02:1. It transformed the way I drive in 4LO and significantly reduced my frustration with the lack of torque going over obstacles, especially at high altitudes.

You found a bunch of oil inside the timing belt cover but no apparent seepage from the seals? The oil pump isn't inside the timing belt cover, it's on the side of the engine where the oil filter attaches.

I don't know for certain, but I don't think you'd need a new TCM. The manual transfer case is really simple. I don't even think it'd be necessary for you to hook up the 4x4 indicator wires on the instrument cluster, as the TX10 doesn't have any electrical sensors or anything like that. You may need a longer wiring harness for the VSS, since the VSS on a 4x4 is located on the side of the TX10. I don't know where it is on a 2WD.

I would not recommend purchasing Bilstein shocks from 4x4parts.com. You can order Bilstein 33-185552 shocks which work well for 2" lift applications from just about any other online vendor for potentially cheaper or with lower shipping costs. Also: if your current struts are working fine or are relatively new, you do not need to replace them when installing a lift. However, since the labor to install new coil springs is basically the same as replacing struts, it's not a bad idea to install new struts if your current ones are old, leaking, or worn out. Finally, when disassembling the struts, it's recommended to replace the strut bearings. Do not use aftermarket strut bearings. Part number is 54325-5v000 for your model year. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-bearing-strut~54325-5v000.html

I don't think there's enough thread on the factory studs to insert a 1" spacer between the frame and the subframe.

LOL, yeah. I bought flashlights too, but I don't use them inside my truck unless I've got the lower dash apart and need to see up under the steering column. Flashlights are also good to use when camping. But, that being said, I converted nearly all of my interior lights to LED. I think the only ones I didn't change are the ashtray light and the transmission shift position indicator light. On the exterior, I stayed with stock incandescent bulbs for brakes and turn signals because I don't want to fuss with load resistors.

They're the same shock. It's just the way certain resellers list their products. I can see how it would be confusing. The 5125 is technically a 5100-series shock, since Bilstein also has a 4600-series and there's a need to differentiate which series the shock belongs to.

They appear to be slightly different lengths. https://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/product.cfm/id/15115/name/Bilstein-B8-5125-Shock-Absorber-Jeep-Cherokee-CJ5-CJ5A-Grand-Wagoneer-J10-J20-Ford-Bronco-Jeep-Cherokee-CJ5-CJ5A-CJ7-Grand-Wagoneer-J10-J20-Toyota-Pickup-Front-Rear-33-186542 https://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/product.cfm/id/15025/name/Bilstein-B8-5125-Shock-Absorber-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-Rear-33-185552 33-185552 is the shock to use for a 2" lift. You'll get much better rear axle articulation, especially if you remove the rear sway bar.

Pull the glass bulb (#194) out of the plastic socket. You can replace the glass bulb with an equivalent LED (#194).

Hi! Thanks for the followup message. What I'm thinking is this: On the upper mount, which is slotted, you would place a square plate that on top has holes drilled into it to accommodate the studs. On 3 different plates, holes would be placed in the center, 1/2" offset, and 1" offset (for example, assuming the total slot length is 2") These three plates would work for 5 positions: -1", -1/2", 0", +1/2", +1", each corresponding to a different gross camber adjustment. Fine tuning could be done using camber bolts if needed, although I'd rather use the original large-diameter strut-to-knuckle bolts. On the underside of the plate are two raised slots that mate perfectly into the slots on the upper mount. So, this piece fits into the slots and makes it so that the bolt holes cannot move even if the nuts aren't fully tightened. After the slotted plate is in place, the washers and flange nuts are installed and tightened. I assume this piece would be machined out of a piece of billet material. Without torque specs, I tightened the nuts to 95 ft-lbs, and I did tighten them initially with the weight not fully on the ground, in order to get a ballpark camber adjustment. That kind of caused the lower mount to skew a little, so it was a little bit of a fuss to get them both lined up. Subsequent adjustments were made after the truck weight was fully on the struts. Of course I had to measure the camber with the weight on the ground, then estimate how much to move the lower mount relative to the upper in order to improve the camber.

It does not hurt to use higher octane fuel in the 3.3L. It doesn't make it run any better, though, since the 3.3L is designed to run just fine using 87. The 3.5L is a higher-compression engine and is designed to run best using 91 or more. (It'll run on 87, but timing will be retarded to prevent detonation and performance/mpg will suffer.) If you can get premium for cheaper than 87, go ahead and use what's most affordable! Just don't ever use E85.

One last thing- Do you have a check engine light? If so, repair the cause of it.

Replace your fuel filter, check the air filter and if it's dirty, replace it. Spray off the radiator from the engine side to the grille. Check that your brakes aren't dragging by shifting into N on a flat surface and verify that it coasts as expected. Check and if needed, replace the fluid in the transmission, transfer case, and differentials. Check the condition of your spark plugs and replace if needed.

For those of you who have installed the Pines to Spines SFD strut spacers, I have some questions. 1. How much did you torque the 2 19mm nuts holding the upper mount to the lower mount? 2. How is the alignment holding up? I adjusted the camber on my spacers which resulted in the studs being approximately in the middle of the adjustment range. However, after a full weekend of rock-crawling and driving on very rough roads, the studs had moved all the way outboard, which resulted in being camber-positive. What is your experience using the spacers? I was thinking that they need a selection of fixed adjustment plates to position the bolts in a particular location to keep the bolts from sliding. Probably 3 different plates per side for 5 camber-adjustment angles. The plates would essentially be square with 2 slotted channels that nest into the camber adjustment slots. Round holes would be drilled into the slotted channels: Max Positive Camber Plate 1: (O====) Plate 1: (O====) Med. Positive Camber Plate 2: (=O===) Plate 2: (=O===) Neutral Camber Plate 3: (==O==) Plate 3: (==O==) Plate 2 would be reversed to provide med. negative camber, and plate 1 would be reversed to provide max negative camber. If there are alternatives to ensuring that the camber doesn't change because the bolts slip, please provide your experience. Thanks!

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Your speedo/odo are operated solely by the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) located on the side of the transfer case. If the VSS is giving erratic readings, there's an electrical short or bad electrical connection somewhere either in the VSS wire harness leading to the back of the gauge cluster or there is something faulty with your gauge cluster. The traces and solder joints have been known to crack or fail over time. Also, the VSS signal goes first to the gauge cluster, and then it goes to the PCM. So, naturally if there's a bad signal reaching the gauge cluster, the PCM will get the same bad signal.

To replace the springs, jack up the axle high enough so you can place jack stands under the rear trailing arm mounts on the chassis. Remove the tires and lower the axke. Then, you need to remove the lower shock bolts and the sway bar mounts from the axle. also loosen the rear brake manifold so you don’t overstretch the brake line. Once that’s done, you’ll be able to drop it low enough to replace the springs. To replace the left spring, put the floor jack under the right shock mount and raise it to flex the axle. The left spring will basically fall out. To replace the right spring, jack under the left shock mount.

Bank 1 is passenger side. Try replacing the downstream O2 sensor first. It’s the one after the cat. “V” configuration engines have 4 O2 sensors. Inline engines (with only one exhaust manifold) have only 2 sensors.