XPLORx4

He already has 30" tires that are only 6 months old. I think the question is: "If I install the 2" lift, will my current 30" tires look too small and make my truck look goofy, or will it still look OK with the 30" tires. I don't want to have to buy new tires yet."

The tires may look too small with a lift, although the OME lift isn't that big. You'll probably be OK.

FYI, you guys had problems with those links because this board (npora.ipbhost.com) automatically always makes the word "Pathfinder" a proper noun. Therefore, links that have Pathfinder spelled with all lowercase characters won't work. I discovered this when attempting to link to my site, so I created a symbolic link. I don't know why this board capitalizes Pathfinder.

Yes. See here:

Those plates look really good, especially the oil pan/transmission plate. Much better than the simple factory plastic splashguard for off-road use. From what I can see, it looks like there's only two things that could be improved upon: 1) Add "Winglets" on either side of the front skid plate to prevent mud/water splashed by the tires from getting up and into the engine compartment. 2) Countersink the mounting bolts on the lower crossmember. The current design makes the bolt heads very susceptible to being sheared off or damaged. Here's an example of a skidplate that I had custom-built for my truck. I requested that it include the features above, in addition to extra reinforcement to prevent deformation of the skidplate if it were hit. Then again, my skidplate weighs about 40 lbs!

It depends on local labor rates, which vary widely by region. I suggest you contact local reputable auto repair shops for quotes by searching your yellow pages. You may want to buy all of your parts first from an online dealer, such as courtesyparts.com or nissanparts.cc. Ideally you should replace: 1 water pump 1 timing belt 2 camshaft seals 1 crankshaft seal 1 timing belt tensioner Optional: 1 a/c belt 1 fan/alternator belt 1 power steering belt Also, since the cooling system needs to be drained, it's a good opportunity to replace the thermostat, coolant hoses, and have the coolant flushed. You'll probably be able to get a discount on those services with the timing belt replacement, as opposed to doing them all separately.

You should probably be aware that spraying the area around the strut mount won't actually have much, if any, affect on the strut bearing. Because of the labor to replace the spring and/or strut, it's usually a good idea to also replace the strut bearings (which are relatively cheap) while you're at it. Here's an example of a strut bearing that's toast: Notice that (1) any grease that used to be inside the bearing has long dried out, and (2) the bearing material (some kind of plastic) has been badly grooved. There is a lot of pressure on that little plastic piece. If it's worn or dry at all, it will stick, causing the "popping" noise.

There are several ways to tell if the Pathfinder is equipped with ABS (if you don't have any evidence on the dashboard) and don't want to try to lock up the brakes: 1) ABS relays inside the fusebox behind the battery 2) ABS module located between the firewall and passenger-side strut tower 3) rear ABS sensor wires running along top of the rear lower control arms. 4) front ABS sensor wires attached to a clip on the front of the strut and a wire connector on the inner wheel well (both sides). For the emissions failure, you don't know the reason for the failure. It could have been as simple as the check-engine light was lit due to a loose gas cap. So long as it's passing now, it may not be a big issue.

Looks like that foosball table gets a lot of use! Yeah, let's see those wheels mounted.

The grass is always greener....

I've had no success in finding a nice A-pillar gauge pod for the Pathfinder either. I'd like to install an AT temp gauge and a voltmeter, but I've had no luck. For the time being, I'm doing without an AT temp gauge, but for voltage, I've been using my radar detector. I have an Escort Passport 8500, which has a cool feature that displays voltage while in "standby". So far it's worked pretty well.

Yes. First, remove the hubs. this link up to photo 8, then see the photos in this link. The link above shows photos of how to replace the wheel hub, but the steps to replace the hub or the brake rotor are identical, since they need to be separated from each other. The main difference is that you don't need to replace the ABS toner ring or the wheel bearings, but they should be repacked with fresh grease, and you will need to replace the inner bearing grease seals, too. EDIT: I just realized there are few missing steps. In order to remove the outer bearing you need to remove the bearing retaining washer, and the locknut. The 2 Phillips-head screws holding it in place are very soft. If you do not use the properly-sized driver on them, you will strip the heads. It helps to push on the screw firmly while you remove it, so that the screwdriver remains firmly seated in the screwhead. To remove the locknut, you can loosen it by inserting a punch (I used a screwdriver) into one of the holes on it and tapping on the punch to force the nut to rotate. Repacking the bearings is also not covered in my photos. Here's a writeup for bearing repacking on an Xterra, which is the same procedure as for the Pathy. However, do not remove the inner seal as shown there. Instead, use this method. (Be sure to use a non-metallic instrument to tap out the seal and inner bearing.)

Refill the original one-quart containers with the used oil. It's probably much harder to accurately measure your used oil quantity with a 5-quart jug. Why does it matter how much used oil you empty out anyway? If only 3 quarts comes out, don't just put 3 back in. Follow the oil capacity guidelines provided by Nissan: 3-7/8 quarts with a filter change on the VG33E.

Replace it. Check www.ninfiniti.com (a junkyard) to see if they have one...

I don't know how you guys are getting so much oil out, unless it was overfilled to begin with. The 1997 owner's manual states that 3-7/8 quarts is the oil capacity. 5 or (gasp!) 5.6! quarts is way too much! I'll assume this capacity applies to all VG33-equipped Pathfinders (1996-2000) The oil capacity for the 2001-2004 is higher. (I don't know what it is, though.)

Sometimes there's no mod available that will prevent you from getting stuck in mud. Before driving over difficult terrain, especially mud (which is usually a lot deeper than you expect), You need to decide the risk of getting stuck and have an action plan for getting yourself unstuck if you go for it and don't make it. That being said, one of the first things any 'wheeler should get (even before tires and a lift!) is a 30,000 lb. tow strap and a pair of D-ring shackles. You can get D-ring shackles at most hardware stores, near where they sell chain, or you can buy them online as well. 30,000 lb. tow straps D-ring shackles Put one loop of the tow strap through the D-ring, and put the D-ring on one of the tow hooks on the front of the Pathfinder. If you have a trailer hitch, insert the loop of the tow strap through the receiver, then secure it in place with the receiver pin. Alternatively, you can use one of these. If mud is your favorite type of terrain, you will probably not want to get AT tires, but MT tires, such as Bridgestone Dueler MT, BFG MT, Interco TRXUS or something that has a more agressive tread pattern. AT tires don't do so well in mud. You'll also probably want to get yourself a good pressure washer so you can clean off the underbelly after you're through. Another thing that you'll find will help your truck in most other types of terrain is reducing the air pressure in the tires to 18psi. Of course, if you do this you will need some way of reinflating the tires for extended highway driving. A cheap cigarette-lighter-powered air compressor is an affordable introductory solution. Anyway, getting back to your question about manual hubs. Your truck comes with full-time hubs or "drive flanges" that set the entire front drivetrain in motion whenever the truck is moving, no matter what mode the transfer case is in. This is what allows you to "shift on the fly" into 4WD at speeds up to 50mph. (Mechanically, it doesn't matter what speed you're going, but you probably shouldn't be going over 50mph if you're feeling the need to shift into 4WD anyway.) Although the front drivetrain always turns, it basically "freewheels" unless 4WD is engaged. Naturally, a constantly-spinning, but unpowered drivetrain will negatively influence fuel economy, too. Aside from potential fuel economy losses, the problem with drive flanges is that they contribute to premature wear of the CV boot, especially when a lift is installed, since the CV joint angles increase. This is why many people install manual hubs as part of a lift. With manual hubs, you basically have two modes: locked and unlocked. When the hubs are locked, they behave just like drive flanges. When unlocked, the wheels are mechanically disengaged from the axleshafts. In other words, wheel rotation can now occur independent of drivetrain rotation. Another advantage of manual hubs is drivetrain failure. I recently snapped a front CV axle while off-roading in Utah. I was able to unlock the hubs and continue driving without causing further damage. In fact, I drove over 1200 miles back home with a broken CV axle. This could not have been done without manual hubs. Installing hubs with the lift is definitely optional, though. I don't think I installed manual hubs in my truck until over a year after it was lifted, and even then I did so only in hopes of increasing fuel economy. The other advantages became apparent afterwards, and besides, I didn't get as much fuel economy benefit as I had hoped anyway.

If you want to build your truck as you get the funds, here's my advice to get the most bang for your buck as you develop your 4x4 driving skill: If you're a 4x4 novice, you'll probably have no idea what kind of 'wheeling you like best, so you want to get a little bit into the sport before blowing wads of cash on mods, only to find out later that you spent money on unbeneficial mods. The process outlined below assumes you don't have unlimited cash to spend all at once. 1) Start with better tires. Get some slightly larger all-terrain tires. Get the metric equivalent of a 31" tire for your 16" wheels. BFG AT-ko or Bridgestone Dueler AT are excellent choices. After you get used to what your truck can and can't do on the terrain you enjoy, your next decision should be either: 2a) 2" lift - get the truck's chassis farther away from the ground. If your truck has low miles, you don't need to replace the shocks or struts simultaneously. If it has > 50K miles (80K km), you'll probably want to get shocks and struts as well. 2b) armor - super-strong reinforced sidesteps (aka "rock sliders") that will protect your rocker panels from damage; metal (not plastic) skidplates that will protect the drivetrain. If you opted for the lift, installing manual hubs is a good idea, followed by armor. If you opted for armor, the lift should be next on your list. Modding beyond the above requires getting a better sense of what you value: engine performance, appearance, pure 'wheelability, comfort, lighting, entertainment systems, etc. If you're on somewhat of a budget, don't rush right in and mod everything at once. Build up in phases and you'll not only gain 4x4 driving experience, but you will become intimately familiar with your truck's limitations and capabilities. It's amazingly capable in stock form (with better tires).

Be sure to clean up any spilled oil around the bushings holding the steering rack to the crossmember. Oil breaks down the rubber, and eventually the bushing will disintegrate, which will allow the rack to become loose. Aside from the ziplock plastic bag trick, cover all of the parts below the filter with 3 or 4 shop rags. (I use the red shop rags that you can get at Costco for pretty cheap. ) They will help catch any oil that doesn't make it into the bag. The only disadvantage about bagging the filter is that as the oil drips out, it lubricates the surface between the filter and the bag, making it very slippery and difficult to unscrew.

"i still haven't heard or seen anyone trying this.." I do believe you'd be the first! I guess nobody else has actually done something like this, although many of us have probably wanted to. Good luck, and keep us updated!

Wow, that's RED! Nice truck; congrats on joining the fold! Can't wait to see what it looks like with its new shoes. Skidplate painted?? You mean the plastic splash guard? Never seen that done before. I had to finally toss mine in the garbage it was so shredded. I can't imagine having to maintain a painted appearance on it.

Actually, the engine is mounted basically upright, not slanted, as you described. There are 2 valve covers, also. Since the VG33 uses port fuel injection, the drivers-side valve cover is buried under the aluminum intake manifold. If you removed the intake manifold, you'd see that the engine sorta resembles those old carbureted V8's you used to work on. I agree though, that the intake design does make it difficult to get to the spark plugs, especially the #6 plug near the firewall.

Huh? You lost me. Pathfinders have a V6, not a slant 6, so the VG33 engine design and the angle it's mounted in the engine compartment are unrelated.

If you hear the squealing sound when you turn the steering wheel fully right or left, then it's the power steering belt that's loose. Since the timing belt was recently replaced (2000 miles is "recent") take it back to the shop that did the work and tell them that ever since the timing belt was replaced, it's been making the noise, and that you've only recently got the chance to take it back to them. Tell them you suspect that one of the belts is loose. Replacing the timing belt requires removing and reinstalling all of the other belts, so the shop might have failed to tighten one of them sufficiently. Auto repair work is usually covered by a 12000/12-month parts&labor warranty (at least it is in California). Before you visit the shop, however, visually inspect the belts and look for cracks on the inner surface of the belt. If you see cracking then they're due for replacement. If not, then simply have them tightened. The shop might try to sell you new belts even if they don't need to be replaced. They might say that if new belts weren't installed, then they aren't covered. However, they DID have to remove and replace them, so if they're loose, it's because of the work they did.

Yeah, this certainly comes in handy!

If you suspect the inner tie rod ends to be bad, you need to get the front tires off the ground, then shake each one back and forth. If you feel clunking or the tie rod "rattles" when you shake it, this means that the inner tie rod socket is worn and could benefit from being replaced. Replacing the inner tie rod socket isn't hard, but it does require special tools. And of course, an alignment afterwards.