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I've been using the ARB compressor, but I may eventually replace it with a Superflow MV50 compressor, which has a higher duty cycle and CFM rating, and is also compact enough to squeeze into the space between the steering column and the power steering fluid reservoir. Since it lacks an air tank, it will pair nicely with my sliders, which are plumbed to hold about 2 gallons of air.

AC's cams for VG30/VG33 appear to have the same specs as JWT.

The MAF sensor is a squarish part screwed into the intake duct immediately outside the air cleaner box. Remove the two screws and the electrical connector, then carefully pull the MAF sensor out. GENTLY clean the small elements with a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol. Do not break the wire elements! The MAF sensor costs about $400. The ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor is located on the engine where the upper radiator hose attaches. There are two sensors there. The one closer to the radiator is the sensor for the temperature gauge, and the one further back is the ECT sensor. You might also consider removing the intake hose on the throttle body and spraying some throttle body/carb cleaner into the butterfly valve and throttle body to clean out any gunk that's in there.

The 3.5L engine is designed to run on premium fuel, but with regular fuel (which burns more quickly) the engine is more susceptible to pinging/knocking. To prevent this, the ECM will retard the timing, and you'll lose some power. So, that's why premium is recommended. I've heard some reports of people getting lower fuel economy with regular, which negates the 20 cents per gallon you save by not buying premium. So, the engine will run just fine with regular, but it may not run as efficiently.

The truck should idle at 900rpm until the engine is warm. The ECM reads the engine coolant temperature sensor value. Is your check engine light on?

O2 sensor: Do you know which O2 sensor is bad? If it's one of the front sensors, the computer will run the engine in "open loop" fuel control instead of using the sensors to control the ideal fuel/air ratio. "Open loop" is usually very rich, which can reduce fuel economy and potentially damage the catalytic converters. If you're getting only 175 miles per tank (that's probably less than 10mpg), with today's gas prices, a new sensor will pay for itself in just a few hundred miles. If it's a rear O2 sensor, it shouldn't affect fuel economy. There may be something else wrong. The engine may benefit from a tuneup.

Shocks: Yes, you can put new taller springs in without changing the shocks or struts. However, if you don't replace the rear shocks with slightly longer ones then you won't get as much flex while wheeling. You truck will ride a little higher, but you'll get "stock" flex. For the front struts, you don't have to replace them, but if they're old you may as well replace the struts because the amount of labor required to replace the springs is the same as to replace the struts and springs. (It would be like rebuilding your bike's bottom bracket, but instead of using fresh grease on the bearings, reusing the old grease.) You'll also probably want to replace the strut bearings too.

The worst that can happen is your vehicle will be impounded. The minimum that will happen is that, when you finally get around to registering the vehicle, the department of motor vehicles will assess penalties for late registration. In Calfornia, the penalties are pretty steep: up to 160% of the original fee, depending on how late you register. If you want a precise answer, contact the Washington State Department of Licensing and ask them what happens when you forget to register your vehicle.

Does your truck have the same amount of power, or have you noticed lack of acceleration and performance? As noted above, it may be time for ignition component replacement. If you do all the above maintenance, yet still have poor fuel economy, it's also possible, although much harder to diagnose (and far more expensive), that your catalytic converter(s) may be plugged.

This video? :o

That was pretty bad driving, for sure, but to be fair, I don't think the driver was able to see the spotter anymore when he started waving his arms to the left. I've walked up that climb (Hell's Gate) on Hell's Revenge, and it's steep- I mean, use-all-fours-to-ascend steep. There are lots of obstacles like that in Moab where all you can see is sky. Unless the spotter is standing to the side, sometimes you can't even see him over the hood.

Yes, you could put manual hubs on, but be sure to use them ONLY with 2WD mode. If you use All-mode (Auto 4WD) and accidentally have the hubs unlocked, you could seriously damage the drivetrain. The fuel economy savings, if any, with manual hubs and 2WD may not be significant enough over stock/2WD to warrant the purchase of manual hubs or the risk of being forgetful and using all-mode with the hubs unlocked... But if you rarely use all-mode, and can always remember to lock the hubs in anything except 2WD, it could be worth it to experiment. Just don't be disappointed if you don't see any real gains.

If the key wouldn't turn the ignition switch, then it could be that your steering wheel was locked in a position that placed tension on the switch. Wiggling the steering wheel back and forth as you try to turn the switch relieves the tension so the key will turn. If it was some other problem, please be more specific. At any rate, it sounds like you've got the problem being taken care of... ???

The SE wheels are 15x7, which will fit 31x10.50R15 tires just fine.

Why did they tell you your bushings need to be replaced? Does your truck handle poorly or sway at back and forth sometimes at highway speeds? If so, you can get away with replacing only the lower arms/bushings. The upper arms are tougher to reach, and only serve to keep the axle from twisting. The lower links stabilize the axle so it doesn't move front-to-back. The panhard rod keeps the axle from moving side-to-side. Replacement arms include the bushings, but you can replace only the bushings if you want. It's more labor to replace the bushings, since you have to remove the arm, press out the old bushings and press in new ones. If you have access to a fully equipped auto shop, do it yourself. In fact, you don't even need a lift, but it's helpful if you have one that you drive the vehicle onto, such as an alignment lift, not a 2-post lift that lifts the frame. It just makes getting to the arms easier. Get a price quote on the replacement arms here: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...=49&catalogid=0 If your truck has seen salt-covered roads and you've got a bit of rust underneath, the bolts may be seized to the bushings and you'll have to cut 'em off. But of course you won't know this until you start the work, though.

31x10.50R15 on factory SE alloy wheels should be OK. But since you have an LE (presumably with the factory "spoke" wheels, which are 15x6.5, too narrow for 31's) you should replace them with 15x7 or 15x8 wheels.

Check your brake fluid level. As the front pads wear, the system fluid level decreases, triggering the light. Also check your front brake pads. They may need replacement soon.

The problem you're describing is caused by drivetrain binding and/or tires scrubbing on the pavement. Your 4WD is operating as designed. In 4WD, all wheels attempt to rotate at the same speed. In tight turns such as what you're describing, all 4 wheels need to rotate at different speeds because they're all traversing different arcs in a circle. 4WD is preventing this, so the drivetrain starts to bind. When drivetrain binding exceeds tire traction, the tire starts to scrub. Do not use 4WD except on low-traction surfaces where the tires can "slip". (FYI- wet pavement is not a low-traction surface.) Test 4WD only on dirt, gravel, sand, etc. Repeated use of 4WD on high-traction surfaces will at best shorten tire life, and at the worst break a drivetrain component.

There should be no fee if you suspect the manifolds are cracked. When you take it in, tell the service advisor you hear a "ticking sound" coming from the exhaust manifolds when the engine is cold. Inform them that you're aware that the manifolds are warranty-covered to 100K miles, and ask how long it will take to fix the problem.

Is that 'cause 3/4 of them are broken? (I understand the Lambo's aren't the most reliable beasts; I saw a "Top Gear" episode in which they didn't have many positives to say about Lambo's.)

Click on the bidder's name to get his profile, then look at his feedback, which has links to his most recent transactions. He has a penchant for time-travel devices. He must have missed Napoleon Dynamite.

Pull off the connector, clean out the holes and the metal parts of the connector with a little silicone lubricant and an old paintbrush, toothbrush, Q-tip, or whatever else works, then apply some dielectric grease to the connectors and plug it back in. That might help with the intermittent connection.

The fuse diagram is on the back of the coin tray. When you go to replace the fuel filter, it's highly likely that even after you release the pressure, the fuel filter lines will still squirt on you and the ground. But, you can minimize this by clamping the rubber lines on either side of the fuel filter with C-clamps or vise-grips.

First things first. Find out what the error code is. It may have nothing to do with the fuel system. But since you asked, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank. If you lift the left rear seat, you can see where the electrical harness (for the fuel pump and fuel gauge sender) goes into the fuel tank. The opening is also where you would pull the fuel pump from the tank. If you want to release pressure on the fuel line (such as when you replace the fuel filter that's attached to the body above the rear differential) just remove the fuel pump fuse behind the coin tray, and crank the engine until it won't start.

I would start by replacing the fuel filter. If the problem persists, the fuel pump could be failing, but to be sure you (or a mechanic) would probably need to test the fuel pressure and do some other checks to determine whether it's really the fuel pump. The problem could be elsewhere, though, not in the fuel system.