XPLORx4

I've been running the JWT pop charger for about 5 years, and it's a definite improvement over the stock intake (even when drawing hot air!) and you'll get even more out of it if the exhaust is also opened up.

Looks like it just resists splashes, much like a raincoat keeps you dry. However, it's not going to prevent water from getting into the intake if you get deep enough.

Hahahahaha! That's really funny! So you're telling me that you could submerge the air filter, and somehow only air dissolved in the water will get through?! Hahahahaha! I'm sure you're mistaken. What's the URL?

lovebunny- WTF is your avatar? Is that some dude wacking off?

Which O2 sensor is it? If it's a front O2 sensor, your truck may be running rich, which may not only waste fuel, but it could potentially damage the catalytic converters. To pass CA emissions, I just had to have the cats replaced on my truck because they had totally melted, restricting the exhaust flow.

Nope. See reply in other thread.

None of the intakes above are true CAI. They still draw hot air from the engine compartment. I don't know of any pre-made complete CAI solutions for the 3.3L Pathfinder. Nissan kept changing the vacuum line layouts (near the intake housing) on the 96-99 models, making it hard for aftermarket companies to standardize on a common configuration. To get a quasi-CAI, many people who've installed aftermarket open-element intakes (such as those linked to above) have fabbed their own heat shields and ram-air ducts by modifying the bumper opening under the turn signal or done something similarly creative.

Chances are that the tires you got will fit on an 8"-wide wheel, too. Tires usually have a recommended range of wheel widths, such as 7"-8.5", 8"-10", etc. The only difference will be what size tire you can fit on the wheel in the future. A 7" wheel will likely not accomodate tires much larger than a 265/75R16. The benefit of getting an 8" wide wheel is that the offset makes the wheels stick out beyond the body a bit more, making the truck appear "tougher". Many 7" wheels don't have offsets that will achieve the same appearance. Then again, 8" wheels will be more expensive, too. Just my .02.

Wow! Boatload of questions there! Geez! Got any illegal immigrants stashed away in there, too? First off, welcome to the joy that is Pathfinder ownership, and to our little nook in the universe. Tires: Yes, AT=All Terrain, MT=Mud Terrain (or Maximum Traction). Mickey Thompson tires are uncommon among R50's, and are usually not as widely available at most tire store. They may have a higher premium as well. You could certainly get a set for yourself if you really like 'em, though. Tire Research: Tire Rack is a great resource to shop for tires and do a bit of research, too. You can usually get a local tire store to match Tire Rack's prices. Manual Hubs: Swapping to manual hubs, in my opinion, is totally independent of the lift. They provide benefits even if you never lift the truck, such as reduced driveline wear and slightly improved fuel economy. It's not absolutely essential to install manual hubs when you get a 2" lift. Many people recommend doing so, however, because the lift increases driveline angles and could cause premature wear of the CV boots. For reference, I drove for 2 years (34,000 miles) with the lift before deciding to install manual hubs. I did this a couple of weeks after a CV boot failed. 1" or 2" (actually turns out to be about 3") Lift: Why do you want to lift? Looks? Maximum ground clearance for off-roading? Better appearance? If you're into maximum ground clearance, can accept a few suspension noises until the springs settle, and are aware you'd increase center of gravity (sacrificing some cornering ability), go with 2". If you just want a more agressive look, but are unwilling to accept any undesirable side-effects and want to preserve on-road handling, go with a 1" (Old Man Emu aka "OME") lift. Lift Prices: Visit Automotive Customizers aka "AC" or "4x4parts" for parts pricing, or google around the 'net for other sources of similar parts. Sequence of mods: If you have limitless cash on hand, do it all at once. If you have budget constraints, install the lift (springs only) and front struts first. (KYB GR2 struts are pretty good.) Then, do the rear shocks. Air filter: Yes, an air filter is absolutely necessary to prevent debris from entering the intake! Using a K&N filter instead of a paper filter, IMO, doesn't add appreciably more power to the 3.3L engine, but hey, it's reusable! If you want more engine performance from the wheezy 3.3L, you can replace the restrictive air intake with an open-element filter such as a Weapon-R or a JWT Pop Charger (both are available at 4x4parts under different product names, or just search google). When combined with a performance muffler, such as Flowmaster, Borla, Dynomax, etc. and a 2.25" tailpipe (getting rid of the "muffler resonator" behind the rear axle) you will gain noticeable "seat of the pants" power. Whew! I think I covered 'em all.

Max4x4 (scroll to bottom of page), a junkyard in New Zealand. You must not have read the long post at the bottom of page 1 of this thread.

Where on earth did you find the headlights... Where can i get a set and how many ducketts?? Well, uh, I don't think you're gonna like my answer.... Earlier this year, my wife and I traveled to New Zealand for a vacation. While I was there, I saw quite a few Pathfinders with the JDM HID lamps, and so I decided to stop by the Nissan dealer in Aukland to see if I could get a set. (The lamps are of course, not available in North America.) They quoted me NZ$6000 (at the time about US$4000) for the pair of lenses, which didn't even include ballasts or the aiming motors! :o The parts guy referred me to a local wrecking yard about 20 minutes away, so I drove down there and the owner told me that, to his knowledge, he had the only set of secondhand JDM headlamps in the entire country, and he'd just gotten them a week earlier! He'd already received about 10 inquiries from insurance companies regarding the lamps, but he told me that since I was standing there in front of him, credit card in hand, I had first dibs! The price, though, was still NZ$3000 (US$2000). Still very freaking expensive, but I figured this was a once in a lifetime opportunity, and my wife was willing to let me spend the $$, so I bought them. The cool thing about it was that the junkyard still had the front end from the R50 they had pulled the lights from, so I was able to go over to it and pull off all of the necessary connectors and wiring harnesses for the lights. Without those, it would have been a lot harder to make everything work. I drove around New Zealand for the next two weeks, while we continued our holiday, with the headlamps packaged up for the flight home. I was constantly worried that someone would break into our campervan and they'd get stolen!

Welcome. You have an LE, but it didn't come with heated seats? :confused: You should get new wheels if you plan to fit 31's. The stock LE wheels are a bit narrow for 31" tires. You should also be aware that you will notice a big performance hit (and MPG decrease) with the larger tires on your LE. 31's are about 10% larger than the stock tires. If you don't like the fake wood, you can contact some junkyards to see if they've got some unbroken interior pieces. You could also try ebay for replacements (even carbon-fiber!), or simply remove the trim pieces, sand 'em, and paint 'em yourself. Lastly, if you start to get serious with off-roading, consider getting rock sliders to replace the side steps. The factory LE side steps are very weak. If you can't afford sliders yet, at least remove the step rails so they don't bend up into the rocker panels. They significantly reduce clearance.

Bank 1 = right side Bank 2 = left side Sensor 1 = pre-catalytic converter O2 sensor Sensor 2 = post-catalytic converter O2 sensor Left side = left side, when facing forward while sitting in the driver's seat. Right side = right side, when facing forward while sitting in the driver's seat.

That's Deer Valley Trail in the Sierra Nevadas. Rolling on 32" Goodyear MT/R's. That's the best pic I found that shows the headlights, though.

If you want to do a real HID swap, you'll likely also need to grind or cut some sheetmetal away from the headlamp opening (as well as get new body panels). The HID lamps have other components on them, such as ballasts and leveling motors, that occupy more space than the halogens. There will probably also be some wiring harnesses and connectors that you'll need as well. I had to do this when I swapped in my JDM HID lamps. In all, the lamps I got have 4 connectors: low-beam HID lamp high-beam halogen lamp integrated marker lamp horizontal aiming motor New QX4's definitely have the headlamp aiming motors and a dashboard rotary switch that has 4 positions. More pics here

Does that 3.8L fan shroud cover the entire Pathfinder radiator, or just a portion of it? Have you tried running at very low speeds, but high loads and high engine RPM? (such as 4LO, 1st gear, 20° slope)

Click here for sound bites.

I know Keith (System-f over on 4x4parts) is planning on going with a full airbag (no coils) suspension. It will be interesting to see what he does.

Be aware that with a larger tire, your fuel economy and performance will be negatively affected as well. This will be exacerbated by towing.

A quick google search yielded the following [subset of] results. Maybe you could try one of these places: http://www.pickupspecialties.com/EGR_fende...ares_Nissan.htm http://www.4vehicleaccessories.com/index.a...WPROD&ProdID=21 http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/subpage...nder_flares.htm

FYI, you guys who got the MV50 got a good deal. I've seen tests performed by members of other 4x4 discussion forums that show the MV50 is faster than a QuickAir2, which costs over $200. I own a QuickAir2, and a buddy of mine has the MV50. In a head-to-head comparison, we aired up a pair of 32" tires from 15 psi. After 1 minute, the MV50 had increased the pressure to 30psi, while the QuickAir2 only got to 29psi. The MV50 seems to be pretty good. At just 50 bucks it's a steal.

You need to remove the interior plastic panel on the hatch to access the license plate bulbs. Remove the handle (secured by screws), then carefully pry the plastic panel away from the hatch around the edges. It's attached by clips that pop on and off.

Which flares did you get?

I picked up the EGR flares from a guy who had bought a second set for his brother, but then his brother sold his truck. So, they were still new in box, but not "retail new". The guy gave me a deal. The flares don't mount with glue. They mount with screws and clamps that fit on the fender lip and on the front fenders, along the edges where the inner plastic liner attaches to the fender. There's also a thin adhesive rubber moulding that fits between the plastic flare and the body. I don't remember exactly how much I paid for the Panther 108's. They were pretty cheap if I recall. Less than 80 bucks each at a tire store's "Spring Holiday Tent Sale" event. I don't know anything about the flares on 4x4parts site. My guess is that they're Bushwacker flares, not EGR, but you can probably call them to find out.

If you want to buy a set of new OEM flares from the dealer, they're about $300 each! That's $1200 for the set, plus you need to drill out your fenders to fit the flares. Even if you got a set of used OEM flares you'd still need to drill out your fenders. Believe me, I searched for suitable fender flares for a long time. These seemed to be the best fit. If you're on a budget, try jcwhitney. They have some inexpensive generic rubber flares that you could probably try, but they don't look nearly as nice as the EGR, nor will they cover as much. I originally tried these, but I didn't like the way they fit for my application, so I returned them, but they might work for you! Good luck!