XPLORx4

To install the inverter in your '02, just repeat the steps you took to install it in your '90. (Pretty much what lowrider said.)

ProClip has a wide variety of mounts as well.

If it won't start, it's either not getting fuel or not getting spark. To verify whether you're getting fuel, immediately after cranking, pull a spark plug and check to see if it's wet with gas. Another way to tell is to smell the tailpipe after/during cranking. If it smells strongly of gas, then you're getting fuel. That means the problem is ignition. The ignition coil (embedded in the distributor) may have failed. If you're not getting fuel, then it could be a failed fuel pump or its electrical circuit.

Uh, I don't know. You posted "do a search". I posted a useful link.

What did you do with the coolant reservoir and the washer fluid reservoir?

The swaying is caused by rotted bushings in the rear lower control arms. Click here for more info Re: the BDS lift, I wouldn't trust buying a product from a company that can't get the model years consistent. The unibody-style (R50) Pathfinder that uses 4 coil springs was available from 96-04, not 95-03, as stated on their site. (Later, they state 95-02.) Go with the Old-man-emu or 4x4parts.com lifts if you want a reputable lift kit.

The reason you heard the grinding is because you paused the t-case in "N" while shifting between 4HI and 4LO. Shifting between 4HI and 4LO needs to be done quickly, firmly, and fluidly. Pretty much I've learned that there aren't any really normal circumstances that call for placing the t-case in Neutral. I'm not sure what kind of damage might be done when you hear the grinding, but when this has happened to me in the past, I usually shut the truck off, then shift into 4HI or 2HI before restarting the engine.

Ooops. Ixnay on the ixty-foursstay. I converted the fuel capacity based on the gas tank in my TSX! (17.1g) As stated above, the capacity is 79 liters.

I think there's about 12-15 liters of fuel still in the tank when the "low fuel" light glows. You can, of course, verify this by subtracting the fuel added at your next fillup from the fuel tank capacity (64 liters).

Or, if by "in reverse" he meant downhill in reverse then what's important here is downhill not the transmission gear. However, if he meant "uphill in reverse" then you might have a point.

As others have said, the transfer case is working properly. All it does is apply equal engine power to the front and rear axle. A "4WD" isn't really a four-wheel-drive, it's really a two-axle-drive. As stated above, with open differentials on both axles, power is transferred to the wheel with the least traction. The only way to get a true FOUR-wheel-drive is to install a locking differential on both axles. The only locking differential that can be installed in your Pathfinder is an ARB air-locker, which not only costs over $600, it also requires installation of an on-board air compressor. The second alternative to improving traction is to install limited-slip differentials. I believe you can get limited slip differentials for the front and rear from Automotive Customers (4x4parts.com).

Replacing the lower arms (or bushings) only will solve the death-wobble problem. The upper control arms are harder to access, and don't contribute to the death wobble. If severely worn, however, they will allow the axle to rock back and forth as you accelerate and brake. FWIW, I've only replaced the lower arm bushings on my rig. It has about 140,000 miles on it. If you want just the OEM control arms, which come with bushings included, try Pinnacle Nissan You can get the lower control arms for just $68 each, and the uppers for about $102. If you want to replace the lower control arm bushings only with polyurethane ones, you can reuse your current control arms, have the old bushings pressed out, and the new ones pressed in. AC sells the polyurethane bushings. The advantage of replacing the whole arm is that you don't have to pay for the additional labor of pressing the bushings.

Are you using the auto climate control when adjusting the temp? If so, it's possible that 68°F is still warmer than the current interior temp, so the heat stays on, just at a lower fan speed than at 78°F. Eventually when the cabin temp equals the desired temp, then the blower will feel cooler. You may need to manually set the fan speed and vent mode to disable the auto climate control.

It's not so much a difference between LE and SE, it's more likely a difference in the engine computer and trany computer programming between 96 and 99 model years. I don't recall exactly, but I think the 99, 99.5, and 00 had marginally more power than 96-98. Other differences in the truck behavior could be due to tire characteristics or extra vehicle weight.

What year is your truck? On my 97 this is the hose I used (EVAP line):

Bummer for you man! Sorry to hear it. Hope your lip heals soon. The damage looks ~$5000. Airbags aren't cheap, and the dash will have to be replaced, too. That'll be a pretty big chunk of change. In '98 my truck met a similar fate, although the damage was much less severe. $2000 was the insurance estimate, and that didn't include airbags, radiator, hood, or fenders! That helped fund my bumper and winch.

Here ya go: http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm http://www.mgcars.org.uk/electrical/body_relays.html http://www.caraudiohelp.com/electronic_com...onents_cont.htm Basically, there are 4 connections: ground switch* batt +12vDC (fused) + to aux circuit (ie. lights) In the above example, the switch should be tapped into a +12vDC source such as the cig. lighter circuit, the parking lamps or headlight switch.

Regarding the IAT sensor, just pull it out of the intake box and relocate it to someplace near the actual intake location. You might need to reroute the wiring connector a little. My IAT sensor is just sort of dangling nearby my JWT pop charger. The IAT sensor doesn't affect engine operation. It's just used for OBDII diagnostics, and will throw a DTC if it's disconnected.

HALF price?!? That's ridiculous. Your truck will look pretty goofy with tiny 235/75R15 tires on it. You may also get poorer gas mileage, since your gearing is optimized for 265's. Try pricing out 265/75R15 instead. They may be cheaper than 265/70. Also, consider 30x9.50R15 or 31x10.50R15. Finally, check into various tire brands/styles. Some are cheaper than others (though they may not last as long).

I'm surprised that no one has mentioned this here yet, but with simple strut spacers, there is risk of exceeding the maximum operating angle of the CV joint and blowing it up, when the suspension is fully extended. The precise height of a strut spacer that does not exceed the max CV angle is unknown. I would guess that a 1" spacer is probably nearing the limit of safe reliable operation. After the spacer is installed, test by raising the front wheels of the ground, engaging the manual hubs (if equipped), turning the steering wheel fully left or fully right, and rotating the tire by hand. Feel or listen for any binding in the inner and outer CV joints. Also evaluate how stretched the CV boots are.

If you're really concerned about paint scratches you can do what I saw an owner of a new Toyota Land Cruiser do: He applied blue masking tape to the entire passenger side of his truck. So all that was necessary was for him to keep the driver's side away from bushes and he was good to go. However, if someone is that concerned about their paint, it's probably better not to venture off the pavement in the first place.

Using the pinch seam for added strength is a good idea. :cool2: But, I can't tell how many "ladder bars" attach the outer rails to the inner. It looks like only two. I wonder if that's enough strength. :confused: Why use only 1.5" tubing in some places instead of 2" all around? Also, why are the "ladder bars" lower than the inner rail that's bolted to the pinch seam? It looks like they would get you hung up on rocks, rather than allow you to slide over them. On more than one occasion (such as this one), I've had to use my rock sliderz, the lower control arm mount, and even the lower control arm to get over some obstacles. :eek: It wouldn't be much fun if I got stuck on the sliders' mounting brackets... But for $279 with a lifetime guarantee, I guess it doesn't matter if you bend 'em 'cause you can get free replacements!

The weight of a full hydraulic snowplow on a lightweight SUV like the Pathfinder might be more than the truck can handle. At the very least you'll need to add a front-mounted receiver. How about some of these links instead?

Alternatively, you could contact these guys who can build you a custom-wound alternator with much higher output (180A), and will be a direct bolt-in for your R50 for about $250. (They also sell pulleys by themselves, too, for about $15.) R&R isn't going to be any easier, though. With the extra current being put out, it's advisable to add extra 4AWG cable from the alternator to the battery positive terminal and from the battery ground to the engine block.

Looks good! Now you need to replace that spare with a 33 also. At least you can since you have the spare tire carrier!