XPLORx4

Is the lift just ordered or is it installed? Is it a fast vibration that you feel in the body/floorboard, or only through the steering wheel? Do you have the part-time transfer case? If the vibration is fast (not through the steering wheel, such as due to a tire balance problem) and you have the lift installed, it could be the CV shafts causing vibration due to the increased angle from stock. You can verify this by removing the drive flanges on both wheel hubs to simulate having "unlocked" manual hubs. If the vibration disappears, then that's your cause.

You need some EGR fender flares. They're not cheap, though. On my 97 LE, I had to remove the factory front mudflaps and some of the body trim in front of the rear wheel, but they fit well. You can paint them to match, too. See more pics here

Try a junkyard. I don't know if that bolt is available separately.

OK, Dan, it's yours. Besides, last month I just dropped $360 for the dealer to install a new driver's side manifold which was cracked in two places so I could pass emissions. (Still not passing though!)

No no no.... Nearly all radiators have an integrated transmission oil cooler in them, usually on the bottom radiator tank. The EXTRA external tranny cooler mounted in front of the lower left corner of the A/C condenser (when viewed from the front) was "deleted" from 98+. 96-97: AT-->radiator ATF cooler-->external ATF cooler-->AT 98+: AT-->radiator ATF cooler-->AT

The external tranny cooler was not included on 98+ models. Not sure why, though. I guess Nissan found a way to save some money.

Found this PDF at www.InstallDr.com I think this is just what you need.

2 comments: 1. The ambient temperature sensor is the same type as the A/C ambient temperature sensor. See attached for info on its electrical properties. If you don't have the A/C ambient temperature sensor, the same type of sensor is also used to measure the air intake temperature. That sensor is mounted on the intake tube located above and behind the left turn signal. 2. The wire that goes to the vehicle speed sensor is not primarily for the compass. It doesn't care about vehicle speed, only that the vehicle is in motion during the calibration procedure. The speed sensor wire is for the temperature display. From Page EL-93: Condition B requires the speed sensor connection.

Sorry, I don't have any pics, but based on the diagrams it looks to me like the IACV is located at the rear of the intake manifold, close to the firewall. It may be possible to reach around the EGR-BPT valve (a "flying saucer"-shaped valve mounted to the rear driver's-side corner of the intake.) to find it. It may be as hard to reach as that blasted 6th spark plug.

The timing belt interval is 105K, FYI. So you're really about 7,500 miles premature. Other things you should be checking or servicing include the following, if they have not been recently changed: accessory drive belts (2 serpentine: AC and fan/alt, 1 V-belt: P/S pump) rear brake drums and shoes dist cap/rotor plugs plug wires I assume by "all fluids" you mean: engine oil ATF t-case fluid diffs brake fluid coolant power steering

You didn't figure it out yet from the replies on AC?

The EVAP canister normally contains the charcoal. At some point the charcoal, which is supposed to be a brick, disintegrates into granules that can get sucked through the EVAP lines. 3 years ago I had the same problem. The charcoal granules got sucked through the entire EVAP purge lines from the rear of the truck to the EVAP purge volume control valve. In addition to replacing the EVAP canister and the EVAP vent control valve attached to it, I had to disassemble and clean all of the EVAP system valves, and blow compressed air through all of the hoses/lines until everything was clear. Every place the hard (metal) lines were connected with a rubber hose, I had to remove the rubber hose and blast air through. It made quite a mess on my garage floor. Fortunately, the granules are blocked from entering the intake manifold by the EVAP purge volume control valve just below the red circle in the photo below. If you continue to ignore this problem, what will happen is that built-up pressure inside your fuel tank cannot be vented through the EVAP system, and on hot days with a full tank of gas, the pressure will force the fuel out through the filler neck, which not only wastes gas and pollutes the environment, it makes your truck very prone to catching on fire!

OK, I guess I can only see my own "WARN" status, since I can't see anyone else's.

:confused: The bump stop should be bolted to the frame. Do you mean there is only 1" of clearance between the bottom of the bumpstop and the spring pan on the axle? If so, that doesn't sound right. When you installed the 2004 springs, did you notice if the ride height changed? Did you get bumpstops for the 97 or for a different year? lbinh is right- there was a TSB on bottoming out for 01 Pathfinders. I believe the solution was to install shorter bumpstops to increase the distance between "level" ride height and "bottomed out". Basically, you have a few options for this: 1) install shorter bumpstops 2) cut an inch or so off the bumpstop. 3) remove the bumpstops and install the airlift air bags [edit: Don't remove the bumpstops, or if you really DO bottom out, it the spring coils will fully compress and bottom out. That's bad.]

I don't think the overhead temp display is programmed (or calibrated) to display the coolant temp range. I think it shows "---" if the temp exceeds 140°F. It's probably better to tap into the A/C ambient temp sensor, which is on the hood latch stay. On the other hand, I don't know if tapping into the sensor has no effect the circuit's resistance, and therefore its response. You might need to use a dedicated sensor.

hahah, probably >50% of its current KBB value. PS. Why do I have a "WARN (0%)" progress bar under my avatar?

The overhead console displays only one temp. Whether it displays inside or outside depends on where you put the sensor. Find the electrical diagrams for the compass/temp display on pages EL-83 through EL-88

Hahahaha! That ain't nothin' compared to 4-wheeling! Tires, Wheels, Lift, Shocks, Bull-bar, Lights, Winch, Battery, Skid plates, Rock Sliders, Locker, Gears, Engine Mods,.... the list goes on and on...

He already has 30" tires that are only 6 months old. I think the question is: "If I install the 2" lift, will my current 30" tires look too small and make my truck look goofy, or will it still look OK with the 30" tires. I don't want to have to buy new tires yet."

The tires may look too small with a lift, although the OME lift isn't that big. You'll probably be OK.

FYI, you guys had problems with those links because this board (npora.ipbhost.com) automatically always makes the word "Pathfinder" a proper noun. Therefore, links that have Pathfinder spelled with all lowercase characters won't work. I discovered this when attempting to link to my site, so I created a symbolic link. I don't know why this board capitalizes Pathfinder.

Yes. See here:

Those plates look really good, especially the oil pan/transmission plate. Much better than the simple factory plastic splashguard for off-road use. From what I can see, it looks like there's only two things that could be improved upon: 1) Add "Winglets" on either side of the front skid plate to prevent mud/water splashed by the tires from getting up and into the engine compartment. 2) Countersink the mounting bolts on the lower crossmember. The current design makes the bolt heads very susceptible to being sheared off or damaged. Here's an example of a skidplate that I had custom-built for my truck. I requested that it include the features above, in addition to extra reinforcement to prevent deformation of the skidplate if it were hit. Then again, my skidplate weighs about 40 lbs!

It depends on local labor rates, which vary widely by region. I suggest you contact local reputable auto repair shops for quotes by searching your yellow pages. You may want to buy all of your parts first from an online dealer, such as courtesyparts.com or nissanparts.cc. Ideally you should replace: 1 water pump 1 timing belt 2 camshaft seals 1 crankshaft seal 1 timing belt tensioner Optional: 1 a/c belt 1 fan/alternator belt 1 power steering belt Also, since the cooling system needs to be drained, it's a good opportunity to replace the thermostat, coolant hoses, and have the coolant flushed. You'll probably be able to get a discount on those services with the timing belt replacement, as opposed to doing them all separately.

You should probably be aware that spraying the area around the strut mount won't actually have much, if any, affect on the strut bearing. Because of the labor to replace the spring and/or strut, it's usually a good idea to also replace the strut bearings (which are relatively cheap) while you're at it. Here's an example of a strut bearing that's toast: Notice that (1) any grease that used to be inside the bearing has long dried out, and (2) the bearing material (some kind of plastic) has been badly grooved. There is a lot of pressure on that little plastic piece. If it's worn or dry at all, it will stick, causing the "popping" noise.