XPLORx4

Ooops. Ixnay on the ixty-foursstay. I converted the fuel capacity based on the gas tank in my TSX! (17.1g) As stated above, the capacity is 79 liters.

I think there's about 12-15 liters of fuel still in the tank when the "low fuel" light glows. You can, of course, verify this by subtracting the fuel added at your next fillup from the fuel tank capacity (64 liters).

Or, if by "in reverse" he meant downhill in reverse then what's important here is downhill not the transmission gear. However, if he meant "uphill in reverse" then you might have a point.

As others have said, the transfer case is working properly. All it does is apply equal engine power to the front and rear axle. A "4WD" isn't really a four-wheel-drive, it's really a two-axle-drive. As stated above, with open differentials on both axles, power is transferred to the wheel with the least traction. The only way to get a true FOUR-wheel-drive is to install a locking differential on both axles. The only locking differential that can be installed in your Pathfinder is an ARB air-locker, which not only costs over $600, it also requires installation of an on-board air compressor. The second alternative to improving traction is to install limited-slip differentials. I believe you can get limited slip differentials for the front and rear from Automotive Customers (4x4parts.com).

Replacing the lower arms (or bushings) only will solve the death-wobble problem. The upper control arms are harder to access, and don't contribute to the death wobble. If severely worn, however, they will allow the axle to rock back and forth as you accelerate and brake. FWIW, I've only replaced the lower arm bushings on my rig. It has about 140,000 miles on it. If you want just the OEM control arms, which come with bushings included, try Pinnacle Nissan You can get the lower control arms for just $68 each, and the uppers for about $102. If you want to replace the lower control arm bushings only with polyurethane ones, you can reuse your current control arms, have the old bushings pressed out, and the new ones pressed in. AC sells the polyurethane bushings. The advantage of replacing the whole arm is that you don't have to pay for the additional labor of pressing the bushings.

Are you using the auto climate control when adjusting the temp? If so, it's possible that 68°F is still warmer than the current interior temp, so the heat stays on, just at a lower fan speed than at 78°F. Eventually when the cabin temp equals the desired temp, then the blower will feel cooler. You may need to manually set the fan speed and vent mode to disable the auto climate control.

It's not so much a difference between LE and SE, it's more likely a difference in the engine computer and trany computer programming between 96 and 99 model years. I don't recall exactly, but I think the 99, 99.5, and 00 had marginally more power than 96-98. Other differences in the truck behavior could be due to tire characteristics or extra vehicle weight.

What year is your truck? On my 97 this is the hose I used (EVAP line):

Bummer for you man! Sorry to hear it. Hope your lip heals soon. The damage looks ~$5000. Airbags aren't cheap, and the dash will have to be replaced, too. That'll be a pretty big chunk of change. In '98 my truck met a similar fate, although the damage was much less severe. $2000 was the insurance estimate, and that didn't include airbags, radiator, hood, or fenders! That helped fund my bumper and winch.

Here ya go: http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm http://www.mgcars.org.uk/electrical/body_relays.html http://www.caraudiohelp.com/electronic_com...onents_cont.htm Basically, there are 4 connections: ground switch* batt +12vDC (fused) + to aux circuit (ie. lights) In the above example, the switch should be tapped into a +12vDC source such as the cig. lighter circuit, the parking lamps or headlight switch.

Regarding the IAT sensor, just pull it out of the intake box and relocate it to someplace near the actual intake location. You might need to reroute the wiring connector a little. My IAT sensor is just sort of dangling nearby my JWT pop charger. The IAT sensor doesn't affect engine operation. It's just used for OBDII diagnostics, and will throw a DTC if it's disconnected.

HALF price?!? That's ridiculous. Your truck will look pretty goofy with tiny 235/75R15 tires on it. You may also get poorer gas mileage, since your gearing is optimized for 265's. Try pricing out 265/75R15 instead. They may be cheaper than 265/70. Also, consider 30x9.50R15 or 31x10.50R15. Finally, check into various tire brands/styles. Some are cheaper than others (though they may not last as long).

I'm surprised that no one has mentioned this here yet, but with simple strut spacers, there is risk of exceeding the maximum operating angle of the CV joint and blowing it up, when the suspension is fully extended. The precise height of a strut spacer that does not exceed the max CV angle is unknown. I would guess that a 1" spacer is probably nearing the limit of safe reliable operation. After the spacer is installed, test by raising the front wheels of the ground, engaging the manual hubs (if equipped), turning the steering wheel fully left or fully right, and rotating the tire by hand. Feel or listen for any binding in the inner and outer CV joints. Also evaluate how stretched the CV boots are.

If you're really concerned about paint scratches you can do what I saw an owner of a new Toyota Land Cruiser do: He applied blue masking tape to the entire passenger side of his truck. So all that was necessary was for him to keep the driver's side away from bushes and he was good to go. However, if someone is that concerned about their paint, it's probably better not to venture off the pavement in the first place.

Using the pinch seam for added strength is a good idea. :cool2: But, I can't tell how many "ladder bars" attach the outer rails to the inner. It looks like only two. I wonder if that's enough strength. :confused: Why use only 1.5" tubing in some places instead of 2" all around? Also, why are the "ladder bars" lower than the inner rail that's bolted to the pinch seam? It looks like they would get you hung up on rocks, rather than allow you to slide over them. On more than one occasion (such as this one), I've had to use my rock sliderz, the lower control arm mount, and even the lower control arm to get over some obstacles. :eek: It wouldn't be much fun if I got stuck on the sliders' mounting brackets... But for $279 with a lifetime guarantee, I guess it doesn't matter if you bend 'em 'cause you can get free replacements!

The weight of a full hydraulic snowplow on a lightweight SUV like the Pathfinder might be more than the truck can handle. At the very least you'll need to add a front-mounted receiver. How about some of these links instead?

Alternatively, you could contact these guys who can build you a custom-wound alternator with much higher output (180A), and will be a direct bolt-in for your R50 for about $250. (They also sell pulleys by themselves, too, for about $15.) R&R isn't going to be any easier, though. With the extra current being put out, it's advisable to add extra 4AWG cable from the alternator to the battery positive terminal and from the battery ground to the engine block.

Looks good! Now you need to replace that spare with a 33 also. At least you can since you have the spare tire carrier!

I've been using the ARB compressor, but I may eventually replace it with a Superflow MV50 compressor, which has a higher duty cycle and CFM rating, and is also compact enough to squeeze into the space between the steering column and the power steering fluid reservoir. Since it lacks an air tank, it will pair nicely with my sliders, which are plumbed to hold about 2 gallons of air.

AC's cams for VG30/VG33 appear to have the same specs as JWT.

The MAF sensor is a squarish part screwed into the intake duct immediately outside the air cleaner box. Remove the two screws and the electrical connector, then carefully pull the MAF sensor out. GENTLY clean the small elements with a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol. Do not break the wire elements! The MAF sensor costs about $400. The ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor is located on the engine where the upper radiator hose attaches. There are two sensors there. The one closer to the radiator is the sensor for the temperature gauge, and the one further back is the ECT sensor. You might also consider removing the intake hose on the throttle body and spraying some throttle body/carb cleaner into the butterfly valve and throttle body to clean out any gunk that's in there.

The 3.5L engine is designed to run on premium fuel, but with regular fuel (which burns more quickly) the engine is more susceptible to pinging/knocking. To prevent this, the ECM will retard the timing, and you'll lose some power. So, that's why premium is recommended. I've heard some reports of people getting lower fuel economy with regular, which negates the 20 cents per gallon you save by not buying premium. So, the engine will run just fine with regular, but it may not run as efficiently.

The truck should idle at 900rpm until the engine is warm. The ECM reads the engine coolant temperature sensor value. Is your check engine light on?

O2 sensor: Do you know which O2 sensor is bad? If it's one of the front sensors, the computer will run the engine in "open loop" fuel control instead of using the sensors to control the ideal fuel/air ratio. "Open loop" is usually very rich, which can reduce fuel economy and potentially damage the catalytic converters. If you're getting only 175 miles per tank (that's probably less than 10mpg), with today's gas prices, a new sensor will pay for itself in just a few hundred miles. If it's a rear O2 sensor, it shouldn't affect fuel economy. There may be something else wrong. The engine may benefit from a tuneup.

Shocks: Yes, you can put new taller springs in without changing the shocks or struts. However, if you don't replace the rear shocks with slightly longer ones then you won't get as much flex while wheeling. You truck will ride a little higher, but you'll get "stock" flex. For the front struts, you don't have to replace them, but if they're old you may as well replace the struts because the amount of labor required to replace the springs is the same as to replace the struts and springs. (It would be like rebuilding your bike's bottom bracket, but instead of using fresh grease on the bearings, reusing the old grease.) You'll also probably want to replace the strut bearings too.