XPLORx4

I would fix the wiring to your cigarette lighter so that it gets a full 12 volts, then just install one of the devices mentioned above.

I am guessing that there is something at the inner bearing or bearing seal that is not fully seated, preventing the CV axle from fully sliding into the spindle. If you've already got the knuckle reinstalled, it's easier to remove the CV axle from the spindle by removing the bolts on the lower control arm/subframe, while keeping the knuckle bolted to the strut. In this way you can slide the CV back and forth to see how it's hanging up. Does it have the same problem on both sides or just one side?

I take it that your sorted out your engine and front axle issues, huh? How did that go?

Xterra WD22 used the 3.3 until 2004. Pathfinder R50 until 2000.

Are you installing the factory drive flanges or aftermarket manual hubs? What parts did you remove or unbolt to pull the axle? The FSM recommends removing the fasteners attaching the subframe to the lower control arm. This involves less disassembly than unbolting the strut and knuckle.

Is the thrust washer oriented correctly? The beveled side faces the engine.

The 185569 shocks are longer than the 185552. The 569’s work well with a 6” lift, while the 552’s are better suited to a 2” lift. I have the 569’s on mine and they work well.

Is there such a bypass on the VG33? I have almost 210k on mine and I have never changed this part.

The interval is 105,000, so it would have had to been recently changed if the previous owner kept up on maintenance. Mine has 209K, so it'll be due for a change before the end of the year. The only way to be certain if the belt has been replaced would be to open up the timing belt cover and look. Or maybe a thoughtful mechanic applied a sticker somewhere on the underside of the hood or on the timing belt cover to indicate it had been recently replaced. If you intend to keep this rig for a long time, you'll have peace of mind if you just go ahead and replace the belt, tensioner, water pump, and camshaft seals. It's expensive, but at least you will know it should be good for another 100K.

When you say "decent trail rig" do you intend to drive on trails in which a front tire may come off the ground? If so, there are no decent spacer kits that will gain you enough clearance for that type of terrain while ensuring that you don't break a front CV axle. Any spacer taller than 1" will result in allowing the front suspension to drop beyond the CV axle's designed maximum operating angle. If torque is applied to the CV axle while it's overextended, binding and breakage will occur. If you're looking to lift with coil springs (which are a more reliable solution than spacers for off-road use), you do not need new struts. If your current struts still have serviceable life left, you may reuse them. Due to the labor of installing new springs into the struts, I do recommend replacing the strut bearings (inexpensive parts, expensive labor). IMO, you are better off spending the extra money and getting new springs. Provided that you have wheels with the correct offset, 31" tires will easily fit with even a mild lift. When I first purchased my 97 LE, it had 28" tires on the factory 15x6.5" wheels. I promptly replaced the 235/70R15 Dueler HLs with 30x9.50R15 tires. When those tires wore out after about a year, I replaced them with 31x10.50R15 Yokohama Geolandars on with 15x8 wheels. (The stock 15x6.5" wheels were too narrow for 31's.) These wheels later also accommodated 32x11.50R15 BFG AT tires, which fit with a 2" coil spring lift that I had custom-made, since at the time, there were no lift kits available. (This was sometime around late 1999.) I ran 32" tires with my 2" lift for over 15 years with no issues, and my rig has been a more-than-decent trail rig and daily driver. It's got almost 210,000 miles on the odometer. I have never broken a CV joint. My point is this: if you want to keep your truck for a long time, and want to preserve its reliability while driving off-road, do not get spacers. Save up for the right modifications. Visit the link in my signature for more info.

Try the second relay-based suggestion I made above, if you don’t want to experiment with resistors.

Another solution would involve adding a second relay connected to the parking lamp circuit. So, you'd have to have both the parking lamps on and the high beams on in order to activate the light bar. Note: this solution applies only if the DRL circuit uses a switched POSITIVE signal, rather than a switched GROUND signal. Use a multimeter to check the circuits. I'll assume that the light bar came with its own relay. Remove the relay signal wire (probably 85 or 86) from the high beam circuit where you've attached it already. The light bar relay should be rewired as follows: 30: to battery +12vDC 87: to light bar 85: to new relay terminal 87 86: to ground Wire the new relay as follows: 30: to high beam circuit 87: to light bar terminal 85 85: to parking light circuit 86: to ground

I believe you'll need a resistor and a relay to accomplish your goal. The DRL voltage is usually quite low, somewhere between 3 and 6 volts. (Use a voltmeter to check the DRL voltage.) If you tap into the high beams for your light bar, the DRL voltage is still high enough to trigger the lights. You need to add a resistor between the high beam wire and your automotive relay so that the relay will not trip until it gets enough voltage. The size of the resistor will vary based on the relay's "ON" voltage and the DRL circuit's output voltage.

31” tires shouldn’t rub as you describe. What size wheels did you get? I read 15” diameter and 3.75” backspacing but what width? Also what year and model trim do you have? 96-98 XE and LE models that had 235/70R15 tires as stock were equipped with a steering rack with a tighter turning radius than SE models with 265/70R15. This could contribute to the rubbing.

Hehe. AC stands for Automotive customizers. Their website is 4x4parts.com. The 2” coil spring lift is in the suspension submenu

The SGII plugs into the OBDII port. Unless add-on sensors can be linked to the OBDII, I don’t think it’ll support them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m not sure what level of detail you’re wanting, but I really like the simplicity of the Scan-Gauge II which i have plugged into my 97’s OBDII port all the time. It doesn’t display graphs or anything fancy, but it displays the essentials. Besides reading and resetting codes, it also computes instantaneous mpg, average mpg per trip, mpg per tank, and distance remaining until empty. ATF temp is not reported over OBDII, but engine coolant temp, voltage, throttle position, engine load, and a variety of other useful info can be shown. I have the unit mounted over the center AC registers for easy viewing. By not using a Bluetooth OBDII reader and an app, my phone is free to use for other purposes while driving (maps, Pandora, phone calls, etc). I still have a Bluetooth OBDII dongle with an app, but I only use it for advanced diagnostics, not for regular use.

I am not familiar with the Volvo fan relay, so unfortunately I don't think I can really help too much with your electrical issues. However, I am curious as to what you are trying to achieve by installing an electric cooling system fan that reduces the radiator efficiency by 20% (due to some of it not being shrouded).

The 4x4 driveshaft is 3 pieces plus 2 u-joints. One piece bolts to the pinion flange, one piece is the driveshaft itself, and the other piece is the slip yoke which I sets into the transfer case.

Als, your brake line has way too much tension on it. Remove the caliper or reposition the hub so that it’s not as stretched.

I would advise replacing the whole cv axle. The connecting shaft should be held in the outer joint with a clip or other type of retainer and should be well seated and sealed by the cv boot. The clip seems to have failed and allowed the shaft to pull away from the cv joint itself.

I can’t confirm the part number needed for 2” lift springs, but you do need to remove the coil springs fully to install the bags and to drill the correct diameter hole in the lower spring mount to feed the air tube through. Failure to drill the hole wide enough will pinch the end of the bag and tube and create a leak. If you want to use 60742 with your 2” lift, use them with the factory bump stops also in place.

At this point, I’m guessing your R50 is worth only about $2500-$4000. The 5-6% error in the odometer won’t really have much effect on mileage for resale. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

By the way, if you’re running larger tires, your speedometer reads slower than actual, which means your odometer reports lower than actual. Therefore, your true MPG is better than what you get by computing odometer trip distance divided by gallons filled since last fill up.

To restore your odometer accuracy, get a speedometer recalibrator. I have mine set to within 0.5mph with 285-75-16 tires. A Dakota Digital SGI-5 is a good choice. I think the Yellowbox is the easiest to install. http://yellr.com/yb_home.htm