XPLORx4

I can sell you a new set of extended brake lines for the R50 with 4" SFD. I got the extended brake lines with my Krypton Fabs SFD, but I don't need them, since I already had installed extended lines previously. Make an offer.

Here's what you'll need for a complete 6" lift: 4" subframe drop lift kit (4 subframe spacers, 2 engine mounts, 2 strut spacers, panhard drop bracket, 2 rear coil spring adapters, mounting hardware) Bilstein 33-185569 shocks (rear suspension) ironrockoffroad.com #10346 WJ 6.5" springs (rear suspension) woodwardsteering.com UA201113,UA201108, 5.75" UADS steering extension 4x4parts.com 2" lift front coil springs (or OME HD springs, which provide a little less lift) One end of the WJ springs will need to be cut off as appropriate to match the front lift height.

I don't think the schematics are going to be helpful for you, since the strut towers have a slant to them. This is why the spacers have an 8° angle between the top and bottom mounts. I also have a KRFabs SFD which is not yet installed. I did place them on the top of the strut towers in the engine bay to check for plumb. I don't recall which side is which, though my strut spacers are stamped with a "1" or a "2". I wish they were stamped with "L" and "R" instead. If I recall, I think "1" is the right side, and "2" is the left.

If they're wearing unevenly, check the wear pattern. If the outsides are wearing more than the insides, you need more toe-out. If the insides are wearing, you need toe-in. You can roughly check the toe by parking on a flat level surface with the steering wheel pointed straight. Squat down in front of the truck and with one eye closed, visually try to line up the rear tire sidewalls with the front tire sidewalls. If you line up the front tire sidewalls and you can't see the rear tires at all, you need to adjust the tie-rods for more toe-out by lengthening the tie rods. If you see too much of the rear tires, adjust for more toe-in by shortening the tie rods. Do this on both sides. Alternatively, you can try using a tape measure to measure the distance between the rearward and forward edges of the front tire shoulders and make the measurements equal.

It is correct that there is a driver's side and a passenger side spacer. They need to be installed on the correct side in order for the suspension geometry to be unaffected. The strut spacers should be plumb (straight up and down) on both sides. If there is any angle to them, it is possible they're installed on the wrong sides of the vehicle. Or worse, the strut spacers were not fabricated properly and you should ask the one who built them for a replacement.

How do you like the new tires?

For the engine to run, you need fuel, spark, and air. It sounds like you're getting fuel and spark at the right time, but there could be a problem with air metering. Try starting with the MAF unplugged.

This link shows 5.143 R/P gears for the front R200A, 1990 through 2004, but note it says: WD21, not R50. The WD21 was discontinued in 1995, and the R50 was not available before 1996. I think the description is incorrect. It is 100% certain that the R200A on the WD21 does NOT use the same R/P as the R200A in the R50. https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-pathfinder-c-38.html/nissan-pathfinder-19962004-r50-pathfinder-c-38_1322.html/19962004-r50-pathfinder-ring-pinion-gears-c-38_1322_1349.html/nissan-pathfinder-ring-and-pinion-gears-by-nismo-1990-2004-front-r200a-5143-p-5656.html

Well THERE'S your problem! It's not reasonable to expect 170hp to push a 4500lb SUV at 70mph when you've basically got a parachute attached! Try repeating the scenario with an empty roof. Your profile indicates you have an LE. I was under the impression that LE's were only equipped with auto trannies. Unless you have a 5-speed manual transmission, your Pathfinder has only 4 forward gears. "D" is 3rd, "O/D" is 4th.

If by "ginger" y'all are referring to pale freckly skin and red hair, he has neither.

Welcome to the forum, crampton16. I'm not sure if you read this whole thread, but basically you cannot get lower gearing than 4.636:1 because of the R200A reverse-cut ring/pinion front diff for which no other gear ratios exist. The only way to get lower gearing is to ditch the IFS and swap in a solid front axle. I assume you have an automatic transmission, which has 4 forward gears. The 4th gear is Overdrive. Your truck wants to downshift out of overdrive down to 3rd gear at 70mph for at least 2 reasons: 1. The faster you go, the more drag your truck experiences, and the 3.3L engine doesn't have enough power to keep up that speed. Drag increases with the square of the speed, so if you have a large drag coefficient (roof rack, light bar, spare tire on roof, etc.), you can expect to have problems pushing all that air out of the way at high speeds. 2. With 33" tires, you're actually going faster than 70mph, but the transmission doesn't know that because it's getting false readings from the VSS. Consider installing a speedometer calibrator. I installed a 12 o'clock labs universal SpeedoDRD to correct my 5% speedometer error, and surprisingly I'm getting better performance and fuel economy now because the transmission shifts slightly differently.

If you installed spacers to lift your ride, you probably damaged/cracked/broke one of the CV joints. Not all CV axles have the same operating angles. Some brands of CV axle have different bearing cage thicknesses which can limit the max operating angle. In order to ensure there's no axle binding after installing strut spacers, you need to rotate the axle by hand and feel for binding when the wheel is not on the ground. If there's binding, then you will likely grenade the CV when the suspension drops (such as when a front wheel is airborne).

The only time I've been unable to make forward progress in 4LO is when trying to climb a very very steep incline at over 8000' altitude. Engine didn't have enough power to get the torque converter past its stall speed. You definitely should check your motor mounts if they're causing your intake boots to tear.

I bought it on eBay last fall for $60. Ended up not needing it. $50 plus shipping and it's yours. Shipping will be pricey to Saipan, I'm sure. Give me your shipping address and I'll see what it'll cost to ship FedEx.

You're in luck! I have one that was pulled from a '97. Odometer reads 201,911. What's wrong with yours?

Try rockauto: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1998,pathfinder,3.3l+v6,1316833,ignition,distributor,7108

Let's do 6pm Saturday at Almaden Ranch Marketplace (aka Bass Pro). MOD Pizza is there if y'all are down for some dinner. 5130 Cherry Ave, San Jose, CA 95118 It might be convenient to park in the corner of the parking lot that is at the intersection of Cherry and the entrance to Bass Pro's parking lot. When entering parking lot from Cherry, make the first right then an immediate right again.

Start here: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0505

I posted in the nor-cal thread.

I'm down for a meet up. I'm in San Jose (85/17/Camden). I've been driving the Pathy daily to/from Fremont for a few weeks now, but it's due for some maintenance and upgrades, so it may be out of commission for a few weeks soon. (Maintenance: new P/S pump and potentially a new steering rack (TBD once I replace the pump); upgrade: 4" SFD).

If the top hat's mounting hole is hogged out, the strut shaft will be allowed to move around in the hole when the suspension moves. This will cause popping/knocking sounds as well as wear out the threaded shaft. This happened to me a while back, and when I tried to remove the nut, the shaft sheared off with it, prompting replacement of both the top hat AND the strut.

Looks good. What size tires are those?

R50's share some parts with 1st-gen Xterras. Front hubs, rear H233B differential. Some misc interior parts. Many engine parts, since they have the same 3.3L V6.

KYB Excel-G struts. $73 each https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/Susptabl.jsp?autoMake=Nissan&autoModel=Pathfinder+SE+4wd&autoYear=2004&autoModClar=Standard+Model&brand=KYB

If you replace the cams, you'll need to replace or resurface the lifters, too.