XPLORx4

How many miles are on the tires, and when was the last time you rotated them?

I used to have a U-haul hitch, shown here. The issue isn't so much the shape or configuration of the tube steel of the hitch, it's the receiver. The distance between the receiver and the panhard rod is essentially what limits the tire size you can fit back there. In fact, the bumper cover itself is also a limiting factor. If I recall correctly, the hitch receiver was almost even with the bottom edge of the bumper cover.

The largest tire I was able to fit in the stock spare location with a tubular hitch was 31x10.5R15. 32x11.5R15 didn't fit.

New, OEM-spec is estimated @ 7.5sec: http://www.060calculator.com/cars/2003/nissan/pathfinder/13251 How long has it been since it's had a tune up?

Yes, it's lifted. Tundra parts do fit it, to a degree. It's basically a Tundra from the B-billar forward. But like the Pathfinder, some amount of customization has been needed, since there's less aftermarket support for it than other Toyota platforms.

I did install an electric pusher fan in front of the AC condenser, and it's only active when the AC compressor is on. The reason I installed it is that at idle on very hot days, the AC sometimes would not blow as cold. I am still running the stock belt-driven fan also.

What's your budget? I love my 1st-gen Sequoia. I picked mine up for $8500, although it had 232K on the odometer. Comparable lower-mileage models were up to $15K, so even if I have to replace the engine at some point, I'll still be ahead. It has plenty of space behind the 3rd row, and the 3rd row seats are still comfortable enough for an adult to sit in without having your knees up to your chest. Compared to my R50, the Sequoia is cavernous. When I drive the Pathy after a week or so in the Sequoia, the Pathy feels like a sports car. It's worth noting that smaller SUV's (4Runner, GX470, Pathfinder R51) with a 3rd row had cramped 3rd row seats, or when the 3rd row was in use, had virtually no cargo space behind the 3rd row. I looked at the Armada and QX56, but the rear independent suspension turned me away. The 1st-gen Sequoia has a solid rear axle, a lockable Torsen center diff and a 2.57:1 low-range transfer case. I bought it for family-hauling and camping trips, and it's been great so far. I've put another 28K on it, and it still runs strong.

I still have the Pathy, but here's my other rig, which is much more spacious than my Pathy for carrying both people AND camping gear: 2005 Sequoia

Hi colinnwn, Yes, there are subframe [drop] lifts that have been made by several folks. A subframe [drop] lift is not the same as a body lift. A body lift moves the entire body away from the frame of a body-on-frame vehicle by placing spacers between the body and frame. A subframe drop only lifts the front wheels (because it "drops" the subframe away from the chassis). You still need spacers or springs to lift the rear. I hope that helps clarify the terminology.

Note: You cannot do a body lift on the R50 Pathfinder, since it's a unibody (not body-on-frame).

To add to what Hawairish said, if you plan to keep your current gear set (ie. leave your front diff installed), and you only want the LSD from the Pathfinder, then you'll need to remove the rear third member from your QX4, remove the third member from the Pathfinder, disassemble both units and unbolt the diff carriers from the ring gears. You'll then need to have the gears set up again. If you don't have the expertise and tools to set up the gears, I recommend taking the third member to Rear End Specialties in Santa Clara. They've done both of my ARB lockers. Quality work.

Is he parting it out, or do you just want to do a swap? Before proceeding, you'll need to know a few things: 1) what's the gear ratio of your QX4 and on the Pathfinder? Look on the VIN plate on the firewall near the windshield wiper motor, and see if you have HG43 or HG46. If the codes don't match, you will need to swap both the front and the rear differentials in order to make sure the ratios are the same. HG46 is 4.636:1. HG43 is 4.363:1. It's better to use HG46 if you are running oversize tires. If the ratios are the same between his and yours, AND his is LSD and you know yours is not, then you can just swap the rear ends.

The notch on the upper spring seat needs to line up with the notch on the lower spring seat. Both notches face towards the inboard side of the strut after it's mounted. Refer to this pic: https://xplorx4.shutterfly.com/278

Do you have a lift? Do you plan to run tires >31" in the future? In the long run, if you will do further mods, it's better to go with these: 15 X8 6-139.70 -13 BKGLRS The difference between the two wheels is the offset (+6mm or -13mm). A +6mm offset will result in too much backspacing, and bring the tire too close to the strut, causing rubbing if you want to get bigger tires. The -13mm offset wheel will give you enough clearance to later put on 32x11.50R15 tires if you want. Note, however, that the -13mm offset will increase the track width of the vehicle, and cause your tires to stick out beyond the fenders. I ran 31's on similar wheels for many years, and I thought the wider track gave my Pathy a "tougher" looking appearance. If you don't have a lift, you may experience some minor rubbing on the front plastic inner fender liners during turns. A heat gun can solve that pretty easily.

Sliders: http://www.rocky-road.com/pathfinder-rock-sliders.html

Maybe someone should contact Calmini and see if they would be willing to put custom coilovers into production... They will be looking for a minimum order quantity in order to do this, and pricing for the coilovers should be expected to be high, considering it looks like they're using Fox or King dampers.

That looks a bit ghetto compared to what Calmini prototyped a long time ago. Too bad their prototype never went into production. https://www.flickr.com/photos/41184956@N08/albums/72157629989182681

This thread might help you out: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/38490-cdn-s4-build-thread/page-24?hl=bumper

BTW, caster is the front end alignment property that keeps your wheels pointed straight ahead when you let go of the steering wheel. Higher positive caster increases this tendency (and will make the steering feel stiffer). Neutral or negative caster will cause unstable handling such as what you're describing. Caster is not adjustable on the Pathfinder, so likely causes of excessive negative caster include damage from a front-end collision or worn suspension components such as those I mentioned in my previous post. Furthermore, if you have modified the suspension in any way, the modifications could contribute to the problem. It may be worthwhile to have the alignment checked (or re-aligned) so that you will know the alignment specs. Experienced alignment techs can also better diagnose the issues you're describing.

Are you simply stating that the steering feels very sensitive? It is possible that your caster is out of adjustment, which could be due to worn ball joints or lower control arm bushings. However, since you stated no other symptoms, it sounds like you're just used to driving cars with different steering sensitivity. How long have you owned the Pathy, and did it always feel this way?

It may spin freely on a cold engine. If it spins freely on warmed-up engine that's just been shut off, then then it's due for a replacement. The fan is attached to the clutch, which in turn is bolted to the water pump. Remove 4 10mm nuts holding the clutch to the water pump, then pull the fan and clutch assembly out of the engine bay. Remove the fan from the old clutch, then attach it to the new clutch. Reinstall the fan and clutch assembly onto the water pump, and you're done. *Note: this was the process I used on my VG33. The procedure may be slightly different on the VQ35, wherein it may be necessary to remove the fan shroud in order to get clearance to remove the fan/clutch assembly.

I am guessing that you need to replace the fan clutch. It's not tightening up and forcing enough air through the radiator. At speed, air moving through the radiator naturally keeps it cool. To test that the fan clutch is no longer working, run the engine up to operating temp. Shut off the engine and try to rotate the fan by hand. If it spins freely more than 1/4 turn, the fan clutch is dead. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1997,pathfinder,3.3l+v6,1212051,cooling+system,radiator+fan+clutch,6812

https://www.amazon.com/WARN-29091-Premium-Manual-Hubs/dp/B000CQDPIQ

There might be more helpful info here about the app: http://scantech.proboards.com/board/4

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