XPLORx4

First, the temp gauge reads middle from about 160-220°, so you cannot rely on it for precise temperature readings. You will probably need to find the turn-on temperature without driving. Start the engine when cold and just let it idle until it warms up. Do not open the hood. Watch the ECT (Scan-gauge?) and determine when the fans turn on. You may need to reposition the location of the sensor. On the VQ35, does hot coolant enter the top and exit the bottom of the radiator, or is it the other way around? (VG33E coolant flows from top to bottom.)

This is probably a silly question, but do the fans run when the hood is closed but the engine is cold? Assuming you're reading the OBDII ECT sensor temperature, as the engine warms up, at what temperature do the fans begin operating? That might help you troubleshoot further.

Are those bulbs from the map lights? I think they are BA9 bulbs. You can find replacement LEDs that fit in the map lights here: http://www.autolumination.com/otherleds.htm I bought two of the cool white versions of 25 led High Powered SMT Array They are very bright.

The guy in the video did it the hard way. It's much easier to remove the CV axle by removing the fasteners holding the A-arm to the subframe. Even the factory service manual specifies to remove the A-arm bolts, not the strut-to-knuckle bolts. Procedure (after front end is supported on jack stands and tires are removed) 1 pry off the outer hub cap revealing snap ring on the end of the axle shaft. 2 using snap-ring pliers, remove the snap ring 3 Insert a screwdriver into the brake rotor vents or other means of preventing the rotor from turning 4 remove 6 12mm bolts holding inner CV joint to the differential housing 5 remove bolts holding A-arm to subframe 6 swing A-arm down away from subframe, providing clearance to slide CV axle out of hub 7 slide CV axle out of hub. If it is stuck, you can hammer on a piece of wood placed against the end of the axle to knock it through the hub 8 check for the presence and orientation of a thrust washer on the CV axle. Sometimes it comes off with the axle, sometimes it stays in the hub 9 if thrust washer came off with old axle, place it onto the new axle in the same orientation 10 installation is the reverse of removal

Interesting comment. I've run a front ARB locker for 10 years and I have never broken a CV axle due to its use. You can expect to break CV's with an abusive driving style, not because the front is locked.

I have never heard that warm air increases fuel economy. Where did you find that information? It's my understanding that in a modern engine whose air/fuel ratio is determined by the O2 sensors, the higher temperature of the air (and therefore its lower density) will cause less fuel to be delivered (resulting in less power) for a given throttle position. All that means is you have to increase the throttle position to draw in more air (and consume more gas to keep the A/F ratio optimal) to achieve the same power output at lower intake temperatures.

A bad pump doesn't usually make a squealing sound. It makes more of a whine. The belt may appear OK, but just might be a little loose. On the other hand, if the pump is seizing, then the belt will definitely squeal (but not because it's loose). Does the same sound happen if you crank and hold the wheel hard full left or right? Have someone turn the wheel while you take a look at the pulley and see if you can isolate the sound. You might also try flushing the fluid before replacing the pump unless you're certain the pump is bad.

If you can get a stock R50 for $12, don't buy it; there's something wrong with it that will cost you more money down the road.

Certainly do this. That's a given. Note that low fluid level will tend to cause a constant whine at all speeds, getting substantially louder when the steering is cranked hard against the stops. The intermittent squeal is probably the belt.

Easiest attempt to address this is to tighten the P/S pump belt.

Yes, you can do a direct swap with an LSD-equipped third member whose gear ratio is the same as yours. The stock LSD isn't very strong, unfortunately, and in my opinion isn't really worth swapping if you hope to better your 2WD traction in a substantial way. As I mentioned earlier, try removing your rear sway bar, then when you load up your recovery gear and drive off-road (with another vehicle) try reducing your tire pressure to 16psi. Do this for a few months as you weigh how much you really enjoy off-roading. If you like it, sell your 2WD and buy a 4x4.

Get yourself a tow strap, a couple of D-ring shackles, then go visit a place where you'd like to "off-road" and caravan with a buddy who has a 4WD. Be prepared to use that tow strap and know where to attach it on each rig. I think you'll be surprised where you are able to go if you know how to pick your line and use the throttle and momentum to your advantage. However, stay away from deep mud at all costs. You won't make it. And it's no fun slogging through the stuff to attach a tow strap after you've buried yourself up to the doors. Recommending you spend $1300 + labor on a locker is bad advice if you've never even really been off-road before. You may also find it useful to pick up an inexpensive air compressor so that you can re-inflate your tires after you reduce your tire air pressure ("air down") to around 16-18psi for better traction and a more comfortable ride when driving off the pavement. All that being said, when I was in high school, I drove my parents' Ford Econoline E-250 2WD van off pavement all the time, and I got it stuck several times, too. It really didn't deter my desire to get off the beaten path. After college, I even drove my '92 Sentra on some pretty intimidating unpaved roads. You just need to know what your vehicle capabilities are and have a backup plan for when the terrain exceeds its capabilities.

I ran my wires up through the rear hatch and under the roof rack rail. I also ran wiring along my safari roof rack. See pics here: https://xplorx4.shutterfly.com/309

You probably need to change the right (passenger side) downstream (post-cat) O2 sensor.

For a 14-year-old vehicle, I don't believe that OEM is going to be any better than aftermarket for a fan clutch. Naturally, there are different quality levels for aftermarket, but I would have no problem not using OEM parts.

A new fan clutch runs $35-$90 at rockauto.com and I'm sure you can source a new fan for under $50. Well, anyway you already have some money invested in the e-fan solution, so you should try to follow it to completion to see if it meets your needs. Unfortunately I have no suggestions how to make a shroud for your application though.

You can confirm the gear ratio of your rear diff by checking the VIN plate in the engine bay near the wiper motor. Look for HG43 (4.363:1) or HG46 (4.636:1). An ARB locker fully replaces the diff carrier. The original ring gear bolts right up to it. As for what kind of performance gains you will see with a locked 2WD Pathfinder, that really depends on the type of off-roading you do now and what type of off-roading you would LIKE to do. For example, a locked 2WD will still lack low-range gears for rock-crawling, so it won't help much for that type of off-roading. I assume you've already done some other off-road performance modifications, such as a lift, longer rear shocks, more aggressive tires, and removing the rear sway bar. These will help immensely, with and without a locker. For steep bumpy ascents, a locked 2WD can cause the rear end to step sideways and get you into trouble more quickly than a fully open 4WD. If you're hoping to keep up with 4WD rigs on off-road trails, a locker isn't going to cut it.

Hmmm, that is odd that your clutch pack is dying so quickly. I've only replace the fan clutch on mine once (about 10 years ago), and I've got 193K miles on my rig.

Are you using any kind of shroud with your fans? If not, you are not pulling air through the entire radiator, reducing its efficiency, and some air being pulled through the radiator can then be pushed back through the areas not covered by the fans. Also, It does not appear that either model of the Proform fans you purchased will enough total CFM to keep the VQ35 reliably cool (especially if you're not using a shroud). If you are seeing this kind of issue now when temperatures are cool, it will be worse in the summer. For what it's worth, I used to run a Flex-a-Lite #295 fan (4600cfm) in my VG33 Pathfinder, and on very hot days (> 100°F), and the AC would stop blowing cold air the engine would run warm. I ended up reverting back to the stock fan because the disadvantages of using an e-fan were greater than any advantages.

Sorry to hear that it's been so difficult for you to repair your vehicle. If time is a commodity you lack, it might be more prudent to just take it to a shop. Hopefully you can find a way to work. Uber?

You don't need the whole rear axle, you only need the third member, which bolts to the axle housing. All R50 rear third members from all years are interchangeable, and are equipped with either 4.363 or 4.636 gearing (with or without a limited slip). If you want a direct swap, you can check the VIN plate on the firewall near your wiper motor and look for the code "HG43" or "HG46" which indicates the gearing you have. Chances are that you have HG43 (4.363:1). If you plan to install larger tires on your ride, you may want to look for a 4.636:1 third member.

Are you getting a specific cylinder misfire code? Why don't you at least check the plugs first? It's certainly a lot cheaper than replacing all the coil packs, especially if that's not actually the problem. If the plugs are good, then you might be able to isolate which coil pack is bad by disconnecting each one in turn to see if the engine runs rougher or stays the same.

So the misfire could be due to the coil packs if your plugs are in OK condition and other filters have been serviced or are relatively new/clean. To SeaFoam the intake, you can follow the instructions here:

Flashing SES light means it's detecting a misfire. Misfires could cause damage to the catalytic converters. You should check the spark plugs and replace if they're worn, and consider seafoaming the throttle body, running some fuel injector cleaner in the tank, replacing the air filter and fuel filter if those haven't been serviced in a while.

It seems pretty clear that the problem is related to the change you made to your electrical accessories, since (I assume) this problem was not present before you installed the LEDs. I would check that the LED tail lamp is installed with the correct polarity. It sounds like you're sending +12v to the tail lamp/marker lamp circuit when you press the brake pedal. As hawairish advised, reinstall the stock bulbs one at a time and see when the issue is fixed to isolate the problem component.