XPLORx4

The ARB locker completely replaces the diff carrier, so with the ARB, it will either be open or locked. Here are some old photos taken during my rear ARB installation: https://xplorx4.shutterfly.com/189 Since I typically go rock-crawling with my Pathy, the locker is awesome. http://www.blankwhitepage.com/gallery/t4r_slickrock_20120804/IMG_5815 I had an ARB locker installed into the front diff case in 2006. (That cost $900.) https://xplorx4.shutterfly.com/216

There is a locking diff already available for the H233B rear. It's not cheap, but it'll probably be easier and cheaper than trying to swap out your entire rear axle. Plus, if you do that, the rear axle ratio won't be the same as the front, which on your 97 SE, is 4.636:1. Here's the locker: http://store.arbusa.com/ARB-Air-Locker-Nissan-H233b-33-Spline-All-Ratios-RD135-P3523C7.aspx I can't believe how much more expensive the ARB locker is now, compared to when I bought mine in 2001 for $500.

How fast are you driving on the sand? If under 40mph, try using 4L instead of 4H. The powertrain has more torque in 4L.

And this might be a dumb question, but you said you "ran out of gas". Did you happen to put gas in the fuel tank?

Since the fuel pump was the last thing you worked on, I would check that first. Check the fuel pump fuse, check for voltage at the fuel pump connector, check for voltage at the fuel pump relay.

If you're going to use it off-road, I would avoid 17's. There's not as much rubber between the wheel and the road to absorb bumps when aired-down, and the wheels will be more susceptible to damage. On stock wheels, 31x10.50R15 will fit on both stock height and lifted. If you are planning to lift it and want to fit larger tires at some point later (such as 32x11.50R15 or 265/75R16), consider replacing the wheels with 15x8 or 16x8.

Since you discovered that the startup issue occurs when cold, check the ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor and IACV (idle are control valve). If the ECT gives bad readings to the computer, it will calculate the wrong A/F ratio, and won't start well. (ECT may be telling the computer that the engine is cold even when it's warm.)

You might enjoy reading this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18663-vh45-swap-sas-update-merged-threads/

I have a 97 LE also. That model year does not have an engine immobilizer security system that relies on transponder chips in the key. I'm able to start the engine with a blank metal key. I have also recently removed the battery for some electrical wiring work and had no problems with the security system afterwards, which is just a theft-alarm. Check out page 216 of this document: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9252407/1997_R50_FSM/EL.pdf It is possible that the ignition coil in the distributor failed coincidentally at the same time as the battery. Rockauto.com has new distributors for a little over $100.

The LSD carrier is different than the open carrier, so you'll need to unbolt the ring gear from your open carrier and install it onto the LSD carrier, then re-adjust the R/P preload and backlash when you drop the ring gear/diff back into the third member.

To be clear, U-joints (universal joints) and CV axles are different. U-joints are located at either end of the front and rear driveshafts. CV axles are located on the left and right sides of the front differential and attach to the front wheel hubs. If your U-joints are new, this does not have any influence on the condition of your CV axles, since they are completely different parts. That being said, if both CV axles have been replaced, it is possible that whatever brand of CV axle was installed may not be compatible with a lift. When I replaced my CV axles a few years ago, I noticed that the inner joint on two different brands of CV axles was different, and one of the CV axles had a lower maximum operating angle than the other due to the design of the inner joint. I returned that axle and bought a different brand, and it works better.

It is possible that during installation of the new strut assembly, the inner CV joint was pulled apart and not reseated properly. It's more likely that the CV joints (inner joints) may be slightly worn, and the increased CV axle angle makes the wear more noticeable - as vibration during acceleration. When were the CV joints last replaced? [Note that installing manual hubs will not help here, since the problem only reproduces while in 4WD (which requires that hubs are engaged) under acceleration.] Unfortunately, to know for sure if the CV axles are worn, you'd have to replace them and see if the vibration goes away. If that doesn't solve the problem, though, you have just needlessly spent at least $200 replacing perfectly serviceable CV axles.

For the knock sensor relocation, this is the only info I remember seeing: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34574-knock-sensor-relocation/

For the record, no R50 was ever equipped from the factory with automatic hubs. All 4WD R50's (unless modified by the owner) have full-time drive flanges. The vibration when the CV angle is greater is noticeable in 4WD, and not in 2WD, because in 4WD engine torque is being applied to the CV axles. BTW, it may not be 100% accurate to say that other Pathfinders with the coil spring lift "have no problem". They may have a vibration, but they are willing to live with it, or they don't use 4Hi under the same conditions/speed as you. FWIW, you should not use 4H on any terrain (such as wet pavement) that a regular FWD car is able to safely drive. 4H is only for low-traction surfaces such as mud, snow, dirt, etc. at speeds <=50mph. If you are driving >50mph, you either don't need need 4WD, or if you do, the last thing you'll be concerned about is driveline vibration, because all of your attention will be focused on keeping the vehicle under control.

How did you determine that the issue is due to no spark? Are the plugs wet with fuel? Fuel odor out the tailpipe? If you're certain it's not getting a spark, it could simply be the ignition coil. The ignition coil is embedded inside the distributor, so you basically would need a new distributor. But it could potentially be any number of sensors, too. The crankshaft position sensor will also cause a crank-no-start condition. Unfortunately if the engine won't run, you won't be able to tell if the check engine light is on, and whether it's worth the expense to get a code reader. On the other hand, if you intend to do most repairs yourself on any 1996 or newer vehicle, an OBDII code reader is a must for a DIYer's toolbox. If the PCM is throwing a code, the code reader will tell you what it is, so you can figure out where to look. If the previous owner indicated it was running OK and then started running poorly, do you know which parts they replaced in an attempt to fix it?

Hmmm. I have a hunch what the knuckle might possibly used for. I'm looking forward to what you come up with, hawairish.

The body cladding on the doors is standard on the 96-98 LE models. QX4 body cladding doesn't have any horizontal strakes in it.

The hose on the bottom of the TB is probably a coolant line for the idle air control valve (IACV). Throttle body spacers do little good on engines that use port fuel injection, such as the VG33e, where fuel is mixed with air in each intake port, far downstream from the throttle body. They are typically mildly effective on older engines that use throttle body fuel injection (where fuel is sprayed into the throttle body and mixed with the intake air charge). I think you just bought yourself a $10 paperweight. http://www.ehow.com/info_12218609_throttle-body-spacers-really-work-fuelinjected-vehicles.html https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Nissan_engines

Did you get a refund for the $297 they charged you to not fix the problem?

Welcome to the forum. That's super cool and very clean! Is the flat part of the mount gusseted underneath so that it won't easily bend down if the antenna hits something? The antenna will be able exert a pretty large torsional force to the 90° angle where the horizontal and vertical faces meet. Looks like the mount was welded, so it wouldn't be that much more difficult to tack on a small gusset there. Nice window sticker, too.

Well, you could take it back to the dealer who charged you $297 for nothing, and have them actually fix the problem.

I have had good results with MasterPro CV axles from O'Reilly Auto. No binding.

Nice. How do you get climb up and down from there? Do you have a ladder?

Replace the links only if your truck exhibits the death wobble, which feels like side-to-side swaying during light deceleration/acceleration. Twisting motion won't tell you if the link bushings are bad. You want to be looking for lateral (forward/backward) movement. To check this, park on a flat surface and place the tranny in neutral. Firmly chock the front wheels, and release the parking brake. Go grab a rear tire at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock and rotate it forward/backward as you watch to see how much play there is in the bushings. You shouldn't see the link move forward/backward very much (if at all) relative to the chassis. You shouldn't be able to move the tire forward/back without the chassis also moving. It might be useful to do this with a helper who can move the tire for you while you watch the bushings. If your truck exhibits the death wobble, you only need to replace the links (or just the bushings if you have a press). Technically, you don't need to replace the upper links to cure the death wobble, but if the lowers are shot, you might as well do the uppers too. The upper links mostly keep the axle from rotating when accelerating/decelerating and ensure that the correct driveshaft angle is maintained, but have less effect on keeping the axle properly located under the chassis.

Welcome to the club and congrats on your new ride! The R50 uses a reverse-cut R/P set in the R200A diff, which means there aren't any off-the-shelf ratios better than 4.636:1. I see you want to put in some Nismo 5.13 gears, so I'm curiously eager to see what you plan to do with the front diff.