XPLORx4

Did you buy the Pathfinder with the spacers installed already or did you have them put in after you bought it? If you put the spacers in later, why did you install them? Was the truck not sitting level? Has the suspension changed since the first day you put them in?

When you say "to sits with a noticeable rake" I assume you mean that the front is lower than the rear. To see how much increase in front height you need, measure the distance from the top of the tire to the wheel arch. Then, place a floor jack under the front crossmember and lift until the body appears level. Re-measure the distance from the top of the tire to the wheel arch. Regarding locking up your CV axles, you have 1.5" spacers on front now, right? If so, raise the floor jack so that both front wheels are off the ground and spin your wheels by hand. If you notice binding while spinning the wheels, then it doesn't matter whether you install the new springs or not, because the length of the strut determines how much total suspension travel is permitted, not the spring or the spacers. If you have binding, your CV axles are at risk of breaking if you drive off-road. This is due to the spacers being too thick and causing the front suspension to drop lower than it was designed. If you do NOT notice binding while rotating the wheels, then installing the new springs will have no effect on the reliability of your CV axles, other than increasing the CV boot wear. You will probably need to experiment with the combination of spacers and springs that levels your suspension. I suspect that 2" springs plus 1.5" spacers will result in the front being too high.

I would check the imported vehicle registration, safety and emissions laws in WA state before buying a vehicle to operate there, whether gas or diesel powered. There could be complications with certain emissions or safety components that would make an imported Pathfinder or Terrano unable to be registered. https://help.cbp.gov/app/answers/detail/a_id/425/~/registering-a-foreign-registered-vehicle,-car-or-motorcycle-in-the-u.s.-with

You can also get light bar tube-mounts to mount to the Rola Vortex. https://www.google.com/search?q=led+ligh+bar+tube+mount&gws_rd=ssl I had to do this to mount a Rigid SR30 light bar to a Bajarack.

"CV axle" means "constant-velocity axle". A CV joint is a special type of universal joint that is most commonly used in drive axles that use independent suspension. On the Pathfinder, the CV axle connects the front differential with each front wheel. It looks like this: To replace ball joints, you need to partially slide the CV axle out of the front hub in order to allow clearance for the ball joint to be removed.

Stock low-range ratio for the TX10 part-time transfer case is 2.02:1

Unlike shocks, struts are almost always vehicle-specific. It is possible, though unlikely, that you'll be able to find struts with longer travel that will fit in the R50.

U-bolts won't really work, because they'll get caught on whatever the arm drags over and will get pulled off. (Landing on or dragging over something is why trailing arms get bent.) Also, the increased strength comes from attaching [welding] the angle-iron along the entire length of the arm, not only at two ends.

I bought a pair of OEM arms and had pieces of angle-iron welded to them. They have held up to some pretty extensive abuse ever since. https://www.dropbox.com/s/u1fqm38dparmofh/lca1.jpg?dl=0

I can do Aug 29.

If you really want the external reservoir Bilstein 5165's, click here: http://www.eshocks.com/bil_ORsb.asp?Series_Index=7Q1&Manf=All&SubChar=Q They are significantly more expensive ($173 each) than the 5125's and may be overkill for your R50. You will want 25-187717 (11.3" travel, 255/70 valving) if you choose to buy them. The diff breather line is just longer piece of vacuum tube that you can get at any auto parts store. You'll just want to route it up to someplace where it's less likely to get water in it if you cross a deep stream.

I didn't get a voicemail. Oh well, I didn't have my Pathy on Friday anyway. Next time!

The right shock length for 2" of lift is about 16" compressed and 26" extended. The Bilstein 5125 shock that has the correct valving and length is part number 33-185552. I have Bilstein 5150's that match that specification, but Bilstein no longer makes the 5150. http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/bilstein_5125.cfm Note that after you install longer shocks, your differential breather tube and rear brake line may need to be extended to avoid stretching them.

Dang it, I missed this meetup! Checked the forum 2 days late...

You can fit 265/75R16 tires on 16x8 wheels with 4.25" backspacing and a 2" lift.

What's the reason that you want to install a lower-temperature thermostat? Also, the temperature gauge reads in the middle from about 155 to 210. The temperature gauge is connected to a different coolant temperature sensor than the engine computer, which uses the "ECT sensor", and either the gauge or the gauge sensor are calibrated to read in the middle for a very wide range of temperatures. That being said, a few years ago I was having some issues overheating and I changed the stock 180° thermostat to a 170° thermostat in my 3.3l. Before the swap, my ECT reading was 184° (verified using Scan-Gauge OBDII monitor), and after, the temperature reads 177°.

It's unlikely that any clips would be harmed in the removal of the right rear cargo panel, so I don't think you need to worry.

Metra makes speaker adapters so you don't have to cut wires. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-speaker-wire-harness-adapter-for-most-nissan-vehicles-multicolor/2206838.p?id=1051826167595&skuId=2206838

If a repair shop was paid to replace the distributor, most shops offer a 12-month, 12,000 mile warranty. If you did the work yourself, and the distributor was faulty, the retailer who sold you the distributor often provides a "lifetime" warranty for the part. Why did the distributor have to be replaced three times, and what was the frequency of replacement? Who did the work? What was the nature of the failure for each one? If you found that the gear on the bottom of the distributor was oddly worn or broken each time, then I would agree that something is amiss with the camshaft gear. If the distributor gear was in good shape after each time the distributor was replaced, and other components of the distributor were malfunctioning, then I would not suspect the camshaft gear.

You should go check out Corral Hollow trail near Arnold, CA. It's a good beginner trail on very scenic terrain. One place that's got some good trails with great diversity of difficulty is Niagara Rim OHV area just past Pinecrest on Hwy 108. It's only about 3 hours away. There are also some really good places to explore using 4WD off of Ice House Rd. (east of Placerville on Hwy 50). You can play on some fun granite slabs near one of the entrances to the Rubicon Trail near Loon Lake. One of my favorite places to off-road is near Blue Lakes, east of Kirkwood on CA-88. You depart from Hwy88 east of Carson Pass at unpaved Red Lake Rd, drive up and over a beautiful mountain pass before descending back down to Upper and Lower Blue Lakes, where there is a first-come, first-served campground, which can get full during summer weekends. There are also several primitive (i.e. no water, no toilets) campgrounds in Hope Valley (along Blue Lakes Rd, just south of the intersection of CA88 and CA89) that are likely to have many open first-come first-served sites, even on weekends.

Putting 80 lbs of wheel+tire on your roof will increase drag and reduce MPG. It will raise your center of gravity, affecting handling. It will be totally exposed to UV degradation, so unless the tire is covered, the spare will potentially need to be replaced even if the tread is 100% new, because the sidewalls will begin failing. Plus, it's not really all that easy to hoist 80 lbs of tire up onto the roof.

A completely flat 33" tire might fit in the stock underbelly location.

Random misfire could be the distributor (which houses the ignition coil) or potentially fuel injectors. Clean the throttle body and the MAF sensor first, which are easier and less costly first-steps.

And by "forced to realign it" he means you will just need to manually rotate the isolator (using a box wrench or other tool over one of the studs to give you ample torque) until it lines up better. You don't have to disassemble anything.

To clarify, when the strut mount is attached to the Left side strut, align the "L" on the mount to be inline with the arrow on the upper spring seat and the notch on the back of the strut lower spring pan. When the strut mount is attached to the Right side strut, align the "R" on the mount to be inline with the arrow on the upper spring seat and the notch on the back of the strut lower spring pan. Following this guideline will allow the bolt-holes to easily line up when you go to install the struts back in the car.