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Look/feel for a Phillips head screw under each of the very bottom corners of the center dash console. Unscrew these screws. Then using a gentle prying motion from bottom to top, work around the outer edges of the console to pry it loose from the dash. You may need to disconnect the electrical connectors to such things as the cigarette lighter, seat heaters, defrost, hazard lights, etc in order to fully remove the console after you've pried it loose. Then you have access to the HVAC panel, which is probably secured by 4 screws, one on each corner.

I saw in your post that you said you had checked fuses, but I figured that you may not have checked ALL of them, and only checked the fuse behind the coin tray. And you may have not checked the condition or terminals on the POWER SOCKET relays under the hood. Is that what you have already done? How did you confirm the fuses and relays were in perfect condition? Did you use a continuity tester? Sometimes fuses may LOOK ok, but may have an undetectable break in them that causes them to perform intermittently when a current passes through them. If you have operated any devices plugged into those sockets at very close to their rated current, the fuse may not blow, the fuse metal could melt/deform and become unreliable. Check for power using a multimeter or a continuity tester at the fuse terminals and at the relays when key is in ACC or ON.

I might be going back to Hollister on November 8 or 15 to help a newbie off-roader learn the basics. Post up here if you'd like to come. The invitation extends to anyone who can make it; it's just up to you how far you want to drive.

As others have said, if you have the climate control setting to not recirculate, fresh air is drawn into the cabin from the hood cowl (the plastic vent under the windshield wipers). To avoid the cabin from being excessively positively pressurized, stale air in the cabin is exhausted from the vents behind the side rear windows.

Check the fuses and relays under the hood as well as the ones behind the coin tray.

Nice writeup on how to change the sway bar bushings. You should consider replacing the steering rack bushings as well, since the one under the oil filter is partially rotted away from oil dripping onto it during oil changes. See in the below photo the bracket holding the steering rack to the subframe? There should be rubber on both sides of that bracket. You can see that the right half of the bushing is missing. If you continue to drive with it like this, you may eventually find that your steering wheel will not return to center after steering (although your truck will continue to drive straight). To protect the bushing from oil dripping from the filter during oil changes, place foil or shop rags over the rack and place a ziplock baggie around the filter as you unscrew it. The oil will spill into the ziplock baggie instead of onto your steering rack (and the rubber bushing).

You guys should consider protecting the bolts on the bottom of the skid plate with some of these: http://fourtreks.com/rock_slidder_washer.html

mel.d- I will be taking some easy trails myself at first. I will have 4 middle-school-aged kids riding with me, and it'll be their first time off-roading. I don't want to freak them out right away. I'll probably also give them an opportunity to get behind the wheel at some point during the day. Anyway, the first order of business once we get through the gate will be to eat lunch and air down at the picnic area near the original obstacle course, so look for us in that area around 12:00-12:30. I will monitor FRS radio channel 9.

Approx noon. I'm leaving San Jose around 11:00

Is there anyone on this forum who lives in the Bay Area? I'm planning to go to Hollister SVRA on Saturday. Anyone interested in coming?

Replace the steering rack mount rubber bushings. Most likely, the rubber bushing under the oil filter has completely disintegrated, allowing the steering rack to move side to side while steering. The bushings are relatively easy to replace.

That sensor is the intake air temperature sensor. The PCM doesn't use that sensor to operate the engine; it's for diagnostics only. You should leave it connected. Since I have a cone filter (like you), I have simply positioned the sensor near the intake. Actually, I routed some 4" flexible black ABS drain tube through the original hole in the fender down to an opening in the front bumper to help provide cooler air when moving. After you plug the sensor back in, you can reset the check engine light by disconnecting the battery. If you never had the sensor unplugged, and your CEL is still on, then you need to find out the code that's causing the malfunction. It may not be related.

To replace the headlight, you have to remove the grille. First, disconnect the headlamp bulb connector. Then, remove the screws securing the side marker lamps, then pull the lamps straight forward. Don't tilt the marker lamps too far down, or you may break them. It may be tough to do, since the bottoms of the lamps are secured using a ball/socket-shaped snap-in connector. After that you will see a 10mm nut on either side holding the metal grille trim to each fender. Remove the nuts. The grille is secured to the radiator support bracket by some plastic clips. Use needle nose pliers to squeeze the back of the plastic clips to release them. The clip in the center, directly behind the Nissan emblem is the hardest. It might be easier to loosen or remove the center radiator support bracket (on which the hood release is mounted) in order to get to the back of that clip. Once you have all of the clips removed, the whole grille will come off. Each headlight is secured by two 10mm nuts on the outboard side of the headlight and two 10mm nuts on the inboard front side of the headlight. After you've removed the nuts, the headlight should come out without a hassle. Reverse the removal steps to put everything back together.

I would like to report that I have successfully installed into my '97 Pathfinder a device which corrects for speedometer error caused by running oversize tires. I bought a Dakota Digital SGI-5 Universal Speedometer Signal Interface ($85) and after wiring it up and programming the % correction, my speedometer is now dead-accurate with GPS. Before you begin: note your GPS speed when your speedometer reads 50mph. Calculate your speedometer correction ratio using this formula: GPS speed/50=correction ratio. For oversize tires, the ratio will be between 1.00 and 1.20. To install the SGI-5, you will need to remove your instrument cluster to access the wiring harness and locate 2 wires: +12vDC hot when the key is "On" and the VSS wire. On the back of the instrument cluster, there are several connectors. The connector you care about is the vertical white connector closest to the far left of the cluster. On that connector, locate the white/black wire (+12vDC hot when ignition "on") and the light blue wire (VSS signal wire). *If you have a reference manual that shows the wiring diagrams/colors, consult that manual to verify the correct wire color for the VSS and +12vDC are as stated above. Optionally you may use a voltmeter to check DC volts (for the power wire) and AC volts (for the VSS). The VSS will read a varying voltage depending on your speed. I installed a T-tap connector onto the white/black wire and cut the light blue VSS wire. I then attached a male and female bullet connector to the cut ends of the VSS wire. This makes it very easy to revert back to stock condition if needed. The SGI-5 requires 4 wires: +12vDC, ground, input, and output. Obtain 4 30" lengths of 18-22AWG wire, preferably black, red, and two other colors. I used green and purple since that's what I had handy. Strip 1/4" from one end of each wire and tin them with solder. To the other end of each wire, attach the following: •Black: a ring terminal at least 1/4" in diameter. •Red: Spade connector (to fit into the T-tap connector) •Color 1: female bullet connector •Color 2: male bullet connector Make sure the bare/soldered ends of all 4 wires are together. These ends will insert into the SGI-5. Twist all 4 wires together so they are easy to manage as a bundle. 1) Connect ground wire: Remove the 10mm nut holding the inner dash (behind the center of the instrument cluster) to the metal framing behind the dashboard and place the ring terminal over it to provide a ground connection. 2) Connect power wire: Attach the red wire with spade connector to the T-tap on the white/black wire 3) Connect signal wires: Attach the other two wires with bullet connectors to the appropriate ends of VSS signal wires. Note the wire color you have attached to the end of the blue wire going INTO the instrument cluster. This wire will be inserted into the "OUT1" terminal on the SGI-5. The wire color attached to the blue wire coming from the harness (which originates at the VSS) will be inserted into the "INPUT" terminal on the SGI-5. 4) Locate a suitable place to mount the SGI-5 where it will be accessible in the future, but do not mount it yet. First, fish the twisted wire bundle behind all plastic pieces on the inner dash and down and over to where you will mount the SGI-5. (I chose to attach my SGI-5 to the side of the transmission control module using double-sided tape.) 5) Insert the power, ground, and signal wires into the SGI-5 terminals. Turn the ignition switch to "ON" but don't start the engine. Confirm that the green LED on the SGI-5 illuminates. If it does not, check your power and ground connections. 6) You are now ready to program the SGI-5. There are 4 DIP switches on the SGI-5. Set them as follows: SW1-3: OFF SW4: ON Towards the back of SGI-5 instruction manual, you will see a chart full of numbers. On the far right, look under the "Cal Hi" column and locate the number that is closest to the correction ratio you calculated earlier. (The number closest to my correction ratio was 1.049.) In this row, note the numbers under the "Coarse" and "Fine" columns. These will be the settings you program into the SGI-5. (Mine are coarse:1 and fine:12). 7) Program the "Coarse" setting. With ignition switch OFF, press and hold the UP button while turning the ignition switch to ON (but do not start the engine) and release the UP button. The green LED will begin flashing the "Coarse" setting. Watch the flashing pattern and pay attention for when there is a longer pause between flashes. Count the number of flashes between pauses. (It will probably be 16.) Press the "DN" button slowly and repeatedly until the number of flashes between pauses matches your "Coarse" setting (probably going to be 1 or 2). To save the setting, turn off the ignition switch. 8) Program the "Fine" setting. With ignition switch OFF, press and hold the DN button while turning the ignition switch to ON (but do not start the engine) and release the DN button. The red LED will begin flashing the "Fine" setting. Watch the flashing pattern and pay attention for when there is a longer pause between flashes. Count the number of flashes between pauses. (It will probably be 16.) Press the "DN" button slowly and repeatedly until the number of flashes between pauses matches your "Fine" setting. To save the setting, turn off the ignition switch. 9) Partially reinstall the instrument cluster so you can verify that your speedometer works correctly while driving. Take a short drive around the block to verify that your speedometer functions. If it does not, check your wiring connections. Remember, the wire from the VSS goes into the INPUT terminal, and the wire to the instrument cluster goes to the OUT1 terminal. 10) Drive the vehicle at normal roadway speeds. Using a GPS, verify your speedometer reading. If it reads too fast, you will need to enter a lower correction ratio from the chart. If it reads too slow, enter a higher correction ratio. Repeat steps 7 and 8 as appropriate until your speedometer reading is accurate. 11) Fully reinstall the instrument cluster and mount the SGI-5 in the location you predetermined. Congratulations! Your speedometer will now read accurately.

The drop he's talking about is a diff drop, which only moves the differential (and the inner CV joints) downwards, allowing for strut spacers to be used without compromising the maximum working angle of the CV axle when the suspension is unloaded. Since a diff drop does not move anything else (such as the subframe, including steering rack, etc.) there's no need for any steering extension. Also, a minor subframe drop of only 2" makes it very hard to access the fasteners securing the subframe, since there's so little room to work with.

It's not that hard if you have the right tools, but yeah, it would suck if you don't have the right tools or a good place to work.

The front diff attaches to left and right brackets which are then bolted to the subframe through rubber bushings. There really isn't very much clearance to drop either the diff or the diff+brackets, since the A-arms would hit the brackets or potentially even the inner CV joints when the suspension compresses. You can evaluate this for yourself by putting your truck up on your lift and checking the clearance between the driver's side diff-bracket and the A-arm. The clearance on the right side is similar. If you could lower the diff by fabricating new brackets, it would only be around 1/2" to 3/4".

Try this info: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35081-ball-joint-weekend/

Resistors aren't characterized using volts. They are characterized using ohms. To find the correctly sized resistor, you need to know how much voltage is being delivered to the sensor and how much the ECM expects in return. Read page EC-209 to EC-218 from this chapter of the Factory Service Manual. It will help you determine what components you'll need to simulate the sensors.

If you look in the engine compartment beside the master brake booster, you'll see a diamond-shaped plate on the firewall. The TCM is bolted to this plate on the other side of the firewall (in the cab).

40202-0W091 sounds right for the hub assembly. The last time I purchased a new hub, it included new inner/outer bearings and an inner grease seal. It won't include hub flange studs or lug studs, though. There's no difference between left and right.

Hmm, try this: http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Paint-From-a-Leather-Auto-Seat

BTW, I ordered a Dakota Digital SGI-5 Universal Speedometer Signal Interface (link on previous page). I read the manual and it looks like it will correct our speedometer inaccuracies. I'll let you know how it goes after I give it a try.

The different readings on your speedometer are due to a % difference not a constant (mph) difference. That is, x% of slower speeds is a smaller mph difference than x% of higher speeds. That is why your speedo is closer to actual mph at lower speeds. Calculate the tire size diameter difference from original to current: new tire (size/orig size) - 1 = % difference. Then for any speed, multiply the speed by the % and that is how much to add to the speedometer reading. For example, if the tire size % difference is 10% then: 30mph speedo reading = 33mph actual 55mph = 60.5mph actual 65mph = 71.5 actual

The R50 speedometer is electronic. The instrument cluster receives electrical pulses from the Vehicle Speed Sensor, and the rate of pulsing determines the speedometer needle position. This device might work: http://www.frsport.com/Dakota-Digital-SGI-5-Universal-Speedometer-Signal-Interface-Controller_p_17569.html http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=126/