XPLORx4

Try rockauto.com

Did you already receive the new headlamps? I don't think that the '97 Terrano HID headlamps will fit in the '99 QX4 openings without also replacing other front-end parts such as the grille. To load pics, go visit flickr.com or another place that offers free online photo storage. Then, cut and paste the photo's URL into your message to display it inline here. The headlamps are relatively easy to wire. The aiming switch is little more complicated, though. Click this to view a previous thread about installing JDM HID headlamps in a Pathfinder.

The CV angle shouldn't be that much different with a 6" SFD than with a 4" SFD, provided that the strut tower extensions are also 6"...

That is one heck of an interesting mix of old and new. If it was front-end collision damage, I wonder why it was repaired with parts from the 96-98 model years.

Knock sensor. #6 spark plug

Follow this basic concept:

XE/LE (w 235/70R15 OEM tire size) have a steering rack which allows for a slightly tighter turning radius than SE (265/70R15 OEM tire size). I think that's really the only difference.

Wear on the inner shoulder of the tire indicates either excessive negative camber (tires look this this from the front: /---\ ), toe out (tires look like this from the top down, \---/ ) due to improper alignment, or severely worn suspension components (tie rod ends, ball joint, bushings) which cause excessive toe-out while driving. Worn out struts will typically cause feathering, cupping, or other types of abnormal tire wear. If the tires aren't showing steel belts on the inner shoulder, rotate them to the rear immediately, go get an alignment (and have your suspension inspected for excessive wear), and you should be OK.

Are those spacers hollow? It sounds like a piece of welding slag, or a rock is loose and rolling around inside a cavity in the spacer or wheel casting.

If you are uncertain, you can use some teflon tape (the white tape you use on plumbing joints).

I have these.

If bleeding the brakes doesn't help, replace the pads with some high-quality ones and report back. Almost all of the braking force is done by the front brakes, so you don't need to replace the rear shoes. (I don't think there are high=performance replacements anyway.)

Yes. As soon as the pads have bedded in (less than a dozen miles), if you mash the brake pedal, ABS kicks in right away - on asphalt even. This means I've either got really crappy tires or really good brakes. Given that I had the same tires before I replaced the pads with which I couldn't engage ABS, and after I replaced the pads, I could, I'm going to say it's the pads that make the most difference. I am not aware that there are brake rotors for the Pathfinder that are designed to being placed over the hub. I'm not sure rotor-over-hub brakes would be good for an R50 used for off-road purposes anyway, since the heat transfer, bolt shear forces, etc. might be screwed up with a non-factory brake design. Besides, how many times do you need to remove the rotor anyway? I've gotten away with pad replacement only for my last 3 brake jobs (ie. almost 100K miles).

When I was running 32x11.50R15 MTRs, stock pads and rotors, I could not get the ABS to engage. I later switched to Akebono pads and Powerstop rotors, and voila! Instant ABS again. Stock parts don't stop big tires mounted to a heavy rig very well. I would first start by getting better brake pads. EBC or Akebono.

Isn't one of the lines FROM the brake master cylinder and the other line is TO the rear brakes?

You shouldn't need to, since replacing the struts (and not messing other suspension bits) does not affect the alignment at all.

Since that D44 rear axle has bigger disc brakes on it than are on your front axle, you might need some kind of proportioning valve now. It doesn't have to be a load-sensing valve, but you are definitely going to need some way to limit the brake pressure to the rear.

Did you install a bicycle bell to warn pedestrians when you're backing up? LOL The frequency is about 4 times one tire rotation, which is points to something that could be hanging around near one of your driveshafts.

If you want your tires to stick out past the fenders, get 8" wide wheels with 3.75 to 4.00" backspacing. Higher backspacing will tuck the tires into the fenders more. However, I have found it hard to get nice-looking and affordable 16" (6x5.5) wheels with low backspacing. It seems that 15" wheels are much easier to find with ~4.00" backspacing.

Did not work: Cardone 60-6185 Worked: MasterPro® Select CV - CV Axle Shaft; Part # NI8185

If the center shaft of the axle snapped, it was likely due to a manufacturing defect in the metal on that particular axle, not indicative of the overall quality of either Nissan or aftermarket axles. It's far more likely to break the CV joints than the axleshaft itself, because the metal (especially the inner CV joint) is thinner. A couple of months ago, I discovered that not all R50 CV axles are created equal. When I had replaced a CV axle due to a partially split outer CV boot, I purchased a new axle from rockauto and after installation, it was binding while in 4WD. I then purchased a CV axle from my local auto parts store, and it worked just fine. I opened up the grease caps of the original CV axle and the CV axle I got from rockauto, and found that the walls of the inner CV socket and the roller bearings were different sizes between the two joints. The rockauto joint has smaller bearings and thicker walls, and the original joint has larger bearings and thinner walls. The thicker walls/smaller bearings don't allow the joint to bend as acutely as the thinner walls/larger bearings.

If replacing the MAF sensor doesn't work, have you confirmed that it isn't a vacuum leak somewhere that is worsened when the temperature increases? Maybe there's a hose or a tube that is rigid at cooler temperatures that causes a bigger leak at higher temperatures. Assuming your ignition is working properly, tumbling/stalling would be caused by either too much fuel or too much air.

You said " I'm sure someone will chime in with the correct tool to use.", so I chimed in!

The R50 inner tie rod screws into the rack. It's pretty straightforward if you have the correct tool. There's a slotted washer that you have to bend over the inner tie rod end so that it doesn't loosen.

The best tool for this is an inner tie rod tool, such as shown here: http://www.harborfreight.com/inner-tie-rod-removal-set-69619.html