XPLORx4

Although it's got relatively low miles, and the 3K asking price is fair, I would pass on it. At avg 17mpg, it doesn't make a good commuter.

I doubt you need to invest that much in new cooling system components, since you didn't ever really run hot. Your original post said you observed temps getting as high as 202? That's still absolutely normal as far as engine coolant temp goes. I have had my engine run as hot as 220 without any coolant loss. You said you observed coolant dripping during your DV trip. Did you see where it was dripping from? Was it coming out of the coolant expansion tank? After the engine was cool, was the expansion tank empty and the coolant level in the radiator low? Maybe you overfilled the expansion tank or it's cracked?

You carry the stock fan and its shroud with you? Do you carry your stock fan and shroud with you on every trip? On my last trip to Death Valley (March 2007), I had an electric fan installed - a Flex-a-lite #295 27" dual fan rated at up to 4600cfm. I had also installed a cut-off switch to cut power to the fan - such as for water crossings. The first day of that trip, I was in Mengel Pass and my alternator failed. Not wanting to inconvenience the group (and cut short an adventure that hadn't even started yet), I limped along with only my battery (making sure to turn off as many electrical loads as possible), getting frequent "recharge" sessions from another rig every time we stopped for a few minutes, all the way to Furnace Creek, where I called Autozone in Pahrump,NV and ordered a new alternator. If I hadn't had the electric fan, the battery would have been able to last much longer, needing only to power the ignition system, PCM, and gauge cluster. Since then, I've sworn never to go back to ONLY an electric fan to supply all cooling needs. I do plan to install an auxiliary pusher fan in front of the A/C condenser later this month to help move more air at low speeds. I'll probably tie it to the A/C compressor, with a separate three-position switch to manually turn it on/auto/off.

On the VG33, the ECT sensor and the coolant temperature sensor for the gauge are different. The ECT sensor reports a voltage or resistance level to the PCM, which converts it to a temperature value (and this is what the ScanGauge reports). I don't know if the ECT sensor and the gauge sensor have different responses or if the temp gauge has a nonlinear response to its input. Bottom line, the temperature gauge is not a good way to evaluate engine coolant temperature.

The temperature gauge is not very accurate; its response is not linear. It doesn't move from the bottom of the gauge until around 100°, then moves really quickly from about 100° to 155°, plateaus at the center of the gauge from about 155° to 224°, then moves again very quickly from about 225° to 254°, by which point your radiator has exploded and/or the engine computer has shut off the engine.

The "normal" range is between 175°F and 224°F. When the temp hits 224°F the temperature needle starts to rapidly move away from the middle of the gauge and towards "hot".

I'm not 100% certain of this, so take it for what it's worth. I believe that, for aftermarket shocks, the 96-99 shock eyelets are the same as the 00-04 eyelets. On the 96-99, the top mount is large-diameter, and just the shock bushing fits over the post and is secured with a big nut/washer, and the bottom mount requires a sleeve to be inserted into the bushing, then a long bolt is run through the mount and the eyelet. The 00-04 top mount requires a sleeve (and bolt), and the bottom post is the same diameter as the top mount on the 96-99, and the shock eyelet is secured with just a nut/washer. To fit 5150's on your truck, you'll need to use a sleeve on the top mount, and just the naked bushing on the bottom mount. You need a shock that corresponds to the compressed and extended length of your current shocks, and has 255/70 valving.

Shock p/n's are the same for 96-00 and 01-04. The main difference (length) is influenced by whether you have a lift or not.

I would not advise getting the Rancho 9000's. Even at their firmest setting they're too soft. I am running Bilstein 5150's with 255/70 valving, and they're great. They are somewhat firm (but not harsh) when the truck is empty, and are perfect (not too stiff, not too mushy) when the truck is loaded up with camping gear.

That's a weird place to have oily residue. The transfer case is nowhere near the passenger "frame rail", and if you don't see any fluid leaking from the transfer case, you should check elsewhere. I would check the hard lines (brake fluid and fuel) that run along that side of the chassis, and also check the transmission cooler lines to the radiator.

You might also check out this forum, which has a lot of so-cal members: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/forums/80-CA-and-NV

I had a 31x10.50R15 spare mounted in the stock location for 10 years without problems on my '97. You might just need to play with the orientation of the tire as you crank the chain to lift it into place. It seemed to fit into place better when the tire was angled so that it was higher against the bumper, and lower towards the axle, and then when it's cranked into position, the side of the tire closer to the axle would lift into place.

You shouldn't need spacers to fit 245/75R16 on stock wheels.

Yeah, the black pipe isn't PVC, it's ABS. This might be a lot harder with large-diameter pipe, too.

Cheapest way is the 4x4parts.com ("Automotive Customizers" or "AC") 2-inch coil spring lift. Don't need to replace the struts or shocks unless they're on their way out anyway. You'll probably need Ingalls camber bolts (check rockauto.com or jcwhitney.com) to correct for excessive positive camber. I've been running with that lift for over 10 years.

When you replaced the axles, did you remove the brass washer/spacers on the old CVs and move it to the new ones? The spacer I'm referring to slides onto the outer CV axle before you insert it into the hub. It's about 3/16" thick and beveled on one side.

Please see the following thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35080-any-norcal-peeps-wanna-hit-hollister

For just a couple blocks it shouldn't be a problem. But I think your test may not give you the results you're expecting. You see, if you lock both hubs, both front axles rotate together and the front driveshaft rotates, too. Only the transfer case is disconnected from the driveshaft. If both hubs are unlocked, nothing rotates while the transfer case is in 2WD. If one hub is locked, and the opposite unlocked, one CV rotates forward, but the other CV rotates backward at the same speed. Some torque might transfer through the side gears to the ring gear and cause the driveshaft to spin slowly. So, since both CV axles would be rotating (just in opposite directions) you may still feel the vibrations. I believe you said that you've already tried driving in 2WD with the hubs locked and have the vibrations. Can you try driving in 4WD with the hubs unlocked to see what happens?

I would not advise allowing one side of the differential to freewheel while the other is locked. The reason is that the differential gears will always be spinning and heating up the diff oil. Those gears weren't meant to spin at those speeds for prolonged periods of time.

More load stretches the spring. This is easier to see when you're under the truck and someone jounces the rear bumper.

Nah, that never worked for me. I had considered at one time trying to figure out a way to apply the parking brake individually to each rear wheel, but alas it was just simpler to get an ARB locker.

Hmmm, ok my misunderstanding then. In any case, I never found the stock LSD to perform particularly well for off-roading. Hang a front and rear tire in the air, and you go nowhere. That depends on the locker. I may be wrong, but I believe the only locker available for the H233B 33-spline is the ARB air locker, which replaces the whole carrier, so it doesn't matter if you have an open diff or LSD to start with.

His priorities have changed over the past 10 years!

Try these guys: http://mechman.com/index.php/quote.html