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Yes that is correct. For any given road speed (MPH), the engine will rotate slower (RPM) with larger tires than with smaller tires, which is essentially the same thing as gearing up (having a numerically lower gear ratio).

Plus, it allows us to run big tires without having to always drive in 2nd gear!

Get a Scan-Gauge II and mount it on your dash. It has the ability to correct for speed errors caused by tire-size changes. Or, you could get new axle gears with a 4.636:1 ratio (tallest available for R50), but that's only 6% different from your stock 4.363:1 gears. With 32" or 33" tires, your speedometer/odometer will still read too slow.

Hi all, I have a 10" subwoofer and custom enclosure for sale. Anyone interested? http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/4359766206.html

I would use caution when installing longer shocks in the rear, especially if the shock length is not commensurate with the suspension lift height. Articulation is not just about how much droop you get. It is also about how far you can stuff the opposite tire into the wheel well. Longer shocks will increase your down travel, but will decrease the up travel. You do not want to allow the suspension to bottom out on the shock. It should always bottom out on the bumpstop (or the spring). If the shock is the component that limits up travel, the shock itself or the mounts could become damaged.

Doesn't look like frame is compromised, but it's at least $4K in damage, which means the truck will more than likely be totaled by the insurance company.

I'm confused about your post. It sounds like you plan to retire the Miata for the winter and get a "beater", and your two candidate beaters are a Jeep WJ or a Nissan R50. Do I have that right? What are your planned uses for this "beater" WJ or R50?

I run A/V cables in the plastic channel under the passenger side carpet edge along each door, behind the rear right cargo panel and then down through a rubber grommet under the storage cubby then out to the rear of the chassis, under the bumper or wherever else the wires need to go. The job routing the wires is much cleaner if you remove the front passenger seat (4 bolts) and plastic trim covering the B-pillar. The same thing can be done on the driver's side if needed.

I ran my roof lighting through the factory wire harness cover on the upper left corner of the hatch opening. No drilling, and as long as the wires aren't too thick (you can fit them in the gap between the hatch and the body.

I don't recall exactly how long I used the AirLift 1000 bags before I installed the AC 2" lift, but it was probably around 3 years. Even 12+ years later, the airbags are in good condition, except like I said, they've been serving just as inflatable bumpstops. I configured them so they no longer hold pressure (ie. I detached the air hoses).

Installation of the airbags themselves is not too much different than installing new rear springs. You do need to get the rear suspension to fully droop, since you have to take the springs out to drill the lower spring pan to accommodate the air line, and you also need to fit the airbags inside the springs. So, that means at least jackstands and a floorjack are needed. Probably the most time-consuming part is routing the air lines so that there's a convenient location to inflate them. I installed the inflation valve on the panhard rod bracket inside the left rear wheelwell, where it's relatively easy to access, since I didn't want to drill into the body or bumper.

When I was running stock suspension, I regularly used the Airlft 1000 bags, and they were an excellent solution to sagging when I towed my boat. When I installed the 2" lift, the stiffer springs negated the need for the airbags, and now they are just glorified bumpstops. I still highly recommend them.

Is your ride a 2WD or 4WD? If you are strongly considering getting an ARB bumper, I would do that before you choose new springs, since the extra weight will affect the amount of lift achieved with new springs.

The bladerunner is a universal device. You can slide any 2" receiver bike rack into it. It's very well-built. The only downside is that it's just as expensive as a new bike rack. Otherwise, it is awesome. I used to have a BVG swing-out rack like the Thule Revolver or Yakima Swingdaddy, but those racks hold the bikes by the top tube, and I wanted to use one rack (the 1upUSA) for both of my vehicles. So I sold the BVG and bought both the 1upUSA (1.25" receiver, so it fits in my car's hitch, plus the included 2" adapter) and the Bladerunner (just for my Pathy).

How do the strut spacers prevent the strut assembly from drooping too far and allowing the CV axles from exceeding their operating angle when the front wheels are off the ground?

How and where do you install these components? Do you have any close-up photos of them installed?

Very cool. Three comments: 1) You have great taste in vehicles and accessories! 2) Nice truck (looks just like mine when it was stock... many many years ago) 3) Nice bike rack. I have the same 1-up rack that I can swap between my Pathy and car. However, because I have a custom rear swing-out tire carrier on my rear bumper, I also have a Bladerunner swing-out mount so that I can open my tire carrier and hatch without having to remove the bikes.

You don't need to bolt to the roof rack channel, you can make your own mount. For each channel, you'll need some metal 7/8" wide and about 4" long. Drill holes in this metal and tap them so that a 6mm bolt will thread into each hole. Then get another piece of metal about 7" long, and bend a 90° angle in it 3" from one end. In the 4" end, drill 2 larger holes through which a 6mm bolt will pass. Align the two pieces of metal so that the holes line up. Now, remove the front end cap of the roof rack channel and slide the 4" long metal into channel. Place the bent 7" piece on top of the roof rack channel and tighten the top piece and bottom piece together to keep it from sliding back and forth. OR even easier is to just use the existing plates in the roof rack channel that are used to hold the crossbars. Then you just need the top piece of metal and some properly sized bolts/screws.

Does your Pathfinder have the roof rack mounting channels on either side of the roof, that run the length of the roof? If not, there won't be any bolt holes. If yes, you can find or make a metal bracket that fits into the channels and attaches to either side of the light bar.

Do you mean that even when the key is out of the ignition, the steering wheel can rotate full right/left (assuming you're able to w/o the engine running)? Why can you not start the engine? Sometimes you need to wiggle the steering wheel back and forth while turning the key.

In order to mount any light system to the roof rack rails without using a factory cross bar, your light needs to be at least as wide as the distance between the roof rack channels, and you'd probably have to build your own brackets to fit in the roof rack channels. The photos I posted earlier show a 30" LED bar, so use that as an estimate for what size light bar you get.

If the oil wetness is only seen at the bottom of the diff, it's more likely to be the diff drain plug. If the oil wetness is observed significantly higher than the diff drain plug, it could be something else dripping. Also, gear oil has a very strong odor. Smell the oil that appears to be leaking. If it's gear oil, then it's your diff.

You probably need to re-index the distributor, which sounds like it's misaligned by one tooth. Lift the distributor up until its gear unmeshed from the camshaft, rotate it by a few degrees then drop it back down.

I would recommend going with all LEDs. Get a light bar for the roof and individual pods for the bumper. LEDs consume much less power per lumen than halogens. BlitzPro has some pretty good LED bars. The LED lenses/reflectors aren't quite as long-throwing as those from Rigid, but their lights are much less expensive. I used to run 4 55w IPF 630RV lights on my roof and while they were bright, I could hear the alternator change pitch when I turned them on. Last year I replaced them with 2 Rigid SR-M LED lights and a Rigid SR30 LED light bar, which now draw a combined total of less than 11 amps and are amazingly bright. My friends joke that I have the sun mounted to my roof. click photo link another photo

If you don't have the Bose system, or you used to but have since replaced your HU and done away with the Bose amp, you can probably fit the compressor into the cavity behind the left rear cargo panel.