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The light bar is a Rigid Industries SR30, but I also have some 6" versions of these much more affordable lights and they're pretty bright, too. I have 4 of them as reverse lights.

I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish. It looks like you are trying to have 2 "modes": a high-pressure mode (SW1) and a low-pressure mode (SW2). You don't have a mode in which no power is being consumed ("OFF" mode). I'm not sure what advantage there is to having the low-pressure switch vs a basic pressure regulator. I assume the unlabeled switch on the far left is your main 'power' switch. The problem is, when that switch is off and pressure<10, then your compressor will run because it's on 87a of relay2. It will continue to cycle on/off as pressure fluctuates between 10-32psi. Also, cutoff sw1 cannot be installed between battery power and the compressor, because of the amperage. I think the MV50 draws around 30 amps.

Or, you can just have both. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=565256413488170&l=8b6d9209b9

Also, your wiring diagram is wrong. You only need one relay: 30: +12vDC (batt) 87: +12vDC to compressor 85: ground (for the relay coil) 86: +12vDC (acc) + dash switch + 85-105psi pressure switch (replaces "valet switch" in below diagram) http://www.mp3car.com/imagehosting/12527647e9129233622.bmp Also, the pressure regulator is not electrical, it is pneumatic. It is plumbed in-line between the compressor air output and your tire air-up kit. If you are creating your own 2-air hose system, consider having the pressure regulator installed on a manifold on the 2-air hose, and the compressor having only a quick-connect fitting.

You're overthinking the automatic inflation part. With your 10-32psi switch, if you start up the compressor with no load, it will shut off at 32psi. Then you connect your tires, which will probably be aired down to something around 16-20psi. The compressor won't do anything, because the total pressure of the system (compressor and tires) is above 10psi. You would have to be aired down to BELOW 10psi to activate the compressor. Plus, you may want to inflate your tires to higher than 32psi. I sometimes air up to 35-38psi at high altitude locations after wheeling to compensate for the tires being warm and the higher altitude. Instead, I would opt for a high-pressure switch and a regulator, rather than the low-pressure switch you are considering. The compressor will cycle on/off at a high pressure, but the regulator will prevent the tires from being inflated more than what you set with the regulator.

Quest, as in Nissan Quest (minivan). The stock Nissan Quest alternator output is ~120a whereas the Pathfinder is ~90a. I don't know if there are pressure switches that will shut off precisely at a typical tire-inflation pressure. They usually have a range, such as as off@105psi, on@85psi, so you will need both a pressure switch and a regulator for automatic operation. The MV50 includes a sintered metal air filter which does a decent job of filtering out larger particles such as sand. Given the frequency of operation and volume of air pumped while the compressor is running (usually when you're stopped, not driving and kicking up loads of dirt/dust), I don't think there is a tremendous amount of value in routing the compressor air intake through the air intake of the engine. The air in your tires doesn't need to be as clean as the air going into your engine. Besides, whenever the engine is running, you will be subjecting the compressor's head to engine vacuum, and providing yet another opportunity for an engine intake vacuum leak (and potential SMOG check failure). The air hose that comes with the MV50 doesn't reach all 4 tires if the compressor is hard-mounted. The air hose's output is also a screw-on schrader valve fitting that continues to leak air when not screwed on. You are better served by installing a quick-disconnect fitting to the compressor's output and buying a coiled air hose and clip-on air chuck to inflate your tires. If it is not practical for you inflate your tires one at a time, consider building something like your own version of the 4air 4-tire inflation system. As noted earlier in this thread, my version of the 4air system uses my sliders.

I don't have pics of my sliders hosted online anymore. My previous website host became defunct. I'll have to dig around my computer to see if I can get some new ones up again. For the ARB lockers, I have a pressure switch to shut off the compressor automatically at the correct pressure, like this one. And of course, the ARB solenoids themselves use the ARB switches and wiring harness that came with the ARB locker when I first installed it. The pressure regulator is a standard one I bought at Home Depot, like this one. Pic of my OBA setup

What model? Probably this one (ARBCKMA12).

I'd like to offer a comment about how I use my sliders as air storage. First, I would like to note that my on-board air system serves only two purposes: 1) activate air-lockers 2) tire reinflation When the OBA is used for locker engagement, the sliders are valved off - they don't store compressed air. I don't want to wait for the ~2 gal of air to fill to 85psi in order to engage the lockers. When airing back up prior to getting back on the highway, I open the hood and switch the valve to route air into the sliders, then turn on the compressor. It begins filling the sliders, which basically function as very large diameter rigid "hoses" to make it super convenient to air up all 4 tires simultaneously, since I have quick-disconnect fittings mounted fore and aft to the sides of the slider tubes in protected locations to which I attach 2-foot-long hoses that reach each tire. Because I have a pressure regulator going to the sliders, the most that they will ever go to is 35 psi. I usually bring a second, spare, portable MV50 that I connect in parallel to the OBA system in order to halve the time required to air up my tires. I just turn on the compressor(s) and after a few minutes, all 4 tires are aired up to the same pressure. This contrasts to my friends who need to air up their tires one at a time. I do not find much need to operate air tools using my OBA. I have a garage compressor for that. I don't carry air tools with me when wheeling anyway. As for being worried about damaging the air fittings on the sliders, the first few times I went after making this mod, I was a bit timid, but they have held up to very severe abuse for the past 5 years and have not sustained damage at all. The only way they could get damaged is if I select a very poor line over sharp jagged rocks that I had no business trying to "slide" over anyway. The sliders are .120 wall 2x2, so it's highly unlikely they will develop a leak. For any OBA system, you need to evaluate how you intend to use it and how often. If you're frequently on the trail and wishing you had air tools to repair stuff you break, then by all means install a large air tank and heavy-duty compressor under the body in the spare tire location. However, you may be better served getting a PowerTank. On the other hand, if you only need to air up your tires at the end of a trail run, you don't need air storage; you just need a relatively high-volume compressor.

There's no tire size like 285/75R15. Do you mean 285/75R16? If so you need 16x8 wheels. With 4.25" BS you may need wheel spacers to fit that size. You could go with a 235 (or 245)/85R16 if you really want tall tires.

No. That's an alignment hole to help check the positioning of the subframe assembly and the unibody.

Yes, it's driveable. But with winter coming, why wouldn't you just replace the CV axles? Strapped for cash? That's very likely at least PART of the problem. Sounds like your front end needs some TLC - and soon! If this is indeed your wife's vehicle, it doesn't seem very safe for her to be driving with that much steering play.

It's not illegal to tow a vehicle backwards, provided you follow certain procedures. Most vehicles are front-wheel-drive and have low front fascias which would get damaged if being towed backwards, so that's why it's not common. On one occasion where I needed my Pathfinder towed, the truck that arrived was a wrecker not a flatbed, and he reverse-towed me since I unlocked the front hubs. He just placed some magnetic taillamps on my hood, and it was all good. Reverse-towing can sometimes be a little disconcerting: check this out.

Hello Whispers8021, Firstly, welcome to the forum. This is a community where members are typically very happy to assist newcomers with various questions, based on their own experience and often, secondhand information that they have learned over the years. It is unfortunate that you have allowed your frustration to overflow into your post, where your comments could be mistaken as rude or disrespectful. Most people don't normally respond to such language with a helpful and courteous manner. I'm sure you did not intend to be rude or disrespectful, but are merely trying to get definitive answers to your questions. I sincerely hope you'll be able to continue participating and learning here with less frequent use of ALL CAPS, which is the equivalent of yelling, in this friendly, supportive community. Secondly, I believe this will answer your questions. Here is what my 1997 owner's manual states about towing (I did not include the page applying to 2-wheel drive models): In summary, what I take from this is that you may dinghy-tow/flat-tow your M/T Pathfinder as long as you don't go too fast and you don't drive too far. The same cannot be said of A/T-equipped models, where I would instead recommend disconnecting the rear driveshaft and installing manual hubs to prevent the drivetrain from spinning. OR, install manual hubs and reverse-tow the Pathfinder using a tow dolly.

If the bolt is broken flush with the diff flange, you might need to drill it out. If it's broken flush with the CV axle flange, you should be able to remove the CV axle, and then use vise-grips on what's left of the bolt. Alternatively, if there's room, you can use a dremel tool to cut a slot into what's left of the bolt and then try to unscrew it with a flat screwdriver.

I do not know of anyone who's replaced their halogen early-model QX4 headlamps with Xenon projector headlamps, but I'm guessing that the procedure can't be too much different than what was used for the Pathfinder. You'll probably need to remove the grille in order to pull out the headlamps. There may be some sheetmetal trimming involved. And of course, you'll need to wire them up. All that stuff is pretty similar to the Pathfinder write-up linked to earlier in this thread.

The broken plastic part you're referring to is probably the socket into which the side marker lamps attach at the bottom.

You don't need to buy a new boot/bellows. If the existing one is in good shape, you can reuse it. You have to cut off the clamp securing it to the steering rack in order to access the inner tie rod socket, then slide the bellows off the end of the tie rod. Then, you still need the pliers (or some similar kind of clamp-tightening tool) to re-secure the existing bellows to the steering rack. A new inner tie rod end will come with a new clamp as shown here. Before removing the old inner tie rod, count the threads showing on the tie rod so that when you put the new one on, your alignment can be nearly spot-on.

Everything you ever wanted to know about polyurethane bushings

You probably just need to replace the inner tie rod end. Check rockauto.com for prices. It's not super difficult to swap out, but having some specialized tools makes the job much easier: an inner tie rod end tool and CV boot clamp pliers help immensely.

I would recommend doing this, and trying to sell the Pathfinder JDM HID lamps.

There's no fuse for the front speakers. It may unfortunately be the head unit.

When was the last time you had your struts serviced? The clunk could be the strut bearing being completely worn out, which will bind and eventually "clunk" when you turn the wheel quickly. You can probably feel it by placing your hand on top of the upper spring seat as an assistant turns the steering wheel back and forth.

The fitment issues are due to the fact that the 1997 Pathfinder and the 1999 QX4 having slightly different front ends, namely the grille (~$80 at rockauto,com), a metal trim piece below the grille called the bumper filler (~$13 at rockauto,com), headlights, and it seems, even the hood ($183 at rockauto.com). For the best fitment, you might also need to replace the lower bumper cover as well. Since you bought 97 Pathfinder (Terrano) headlamps, you need to be searching for 1997 Pathfinder body parts (though 96-98 model years are basically the same). Compare these images: 1999 QX4 front 1997 Pathfinder front Your headlight retrofit project may end up being much more complicated than you bargained for. Sorry I can't give more advice, since I've never tried to install body parts from a dissimilar brand/model year onto my rig.

The sad thing is that it was only 3 months between the first-time wreck and the second-time!