XPLORx4

A 5" strut spacer combined with a 2.5" subframe drop will cause problems with both alignment and CV angle. Also, a 2.5" subframe drop will be very difficult to install because it will be hard to get a wrench or socket on the nuts securing the drop-brackets to the chassis. You'll also need to extend the steering linkage. And of course, you'll also need to do something about the rear suspension. Check out krfabs.com which has a complete 4" subframe drop kit that includes all of the parts you need to lift the front. You just need to find the correct springs and shocks to lift the rear.

Looks like the bolt is still in place, but the rubber just rotted away.

Nice work! Those Dually's look great! Here are some options for Battery Isolators: Powermaster $110 Hellroaring Batter Isolator/Combiner $175-$200 NOCO battery isolator $46-$96 I have a Hellroaring BIC attached to the passenger-side strut tower underneath the relay/fuse box. It fits quite well there, and was easy to wire. Click to see my dual battery setup although in this pic you cannot see the BIC mounted under the fuse box, because it's hidden behind the batteries.

Well, amazon says it fits, but the photo doesn't match what the front control arm bushings look like. The rear bushings don't have metal sleeves. I would expect to see four 1/2-bushings, 2 collars (for the fronts), and 2 full bushings (for the rear). Here are the AC front bushings: Here are the AC rear bushings: Since amazon has a fairly painless return process, go ahead and order them. But just double-check the package contents and see how closely the bushings you get match the AC bushings.

Yes it's true that most of the braking is accomplished by the front brakes, but if the rear drums/shoes are out of adjustment, much of the brake pressure applied to the pedal is "wasted" by the poorly-adjusted rear brakes. That's why he says "rear drums are responsible for most of the pedal feel".

Got it. Since upgrading to the newer brakes is more than just the rotors and pads, the upgrade cost could be substantial, also requiring at least new calipers ($200+ per side), and possibly new spindle ($300 per side), new wheels to clear the calipers, and a new master cylinder (though I am not certain of this). That's the main reason why I didn't think the extra cost was worth it, since I believe you can get a big boost in performance above OEM with just new slotted rotors and EBC pads. However, that's just me. Everyone has their priorities. I've spent over $3200 on lighting for my Pathfinder. Was it worth it? To me, yes. To another? Probably not. Just wanted to point out that you can't just slap on 2001 brake rotors and pads onto 1997 spindle and calipers and expect it to be plug-and-play.

Hi shoesandsocks, just curious, what did I say that you disagree with?

If you upgrade to the bigger brakes, you may need a new spindle (though I'm not certain of this), and will definitely need new caliper brackets and calipers besides the rotors and pads. There's a chance (though I can't be sure) that you might also need a different master cylinder too. Wheel clearance could also be an issue, depending on what wheel size you have now. That being said, I don't think the brake-size upgrade cost would be worth it. However, I would recommend getting slotted rotors and some performance pads appropriate to your model year. I am running PowerSlot cross-drilled/slotted rotors and EBC red pads. With those brakes, I was easily able to engage the ABS system on pavement with 32x11.50R15 Goodyear MTR's, and can do the same on 265/75R16 BFG MT KM2's.

(copied from other thread) The issue is caused by deteriorated/worn rubber bushings on either or both ends of all 4 links that connect the axle to the chassis, with the upper links (the short ones) being worse. What you're describing is a form of something called "axle wrap" which is a phenomenon normally associated with leaf-spring suspension, but will also happen on multilink coil spring suspension if the suspension components are worn. The fix is relatively straightforward: replace all 4 links with new ones, which also contain new rubber bushings. Or if you prefer, you can swap out the rubber bushings from your old links and replace them with polyurethane bushings available at 4x4parts.com, but a lot more labor is required to press out the old bushings and press in the new ones. You can purchase new links at rockauto.com Search for [Part Number Search]: 551114w020 (rear left lower arm) 551104w020 (rear right lower arm) 551202w100 (upper arm) - you'll need 2 of them. All parts are about $46 each, so it'll cost ya about $200 in parts to fix this.

No idea what purpose the video serves. But anyway, I agree that the issue is caused by deteriorated/worn rubber bushings on either or both ends of all 4 links that connect the axle to the chassis, with the upper links (the short ones) being worse. What you're describing is a form of something called "axle wrap" which is a phenomenon normally associated with leaf-spring suspension, but will also happen on multilink coil spring suspension if the suspension components are worn. The fix is relatively straightforward: replace all 4 links with new ones, which also contain new rubber bushings. Or if you prefer, you can swap out the rubber bushings from your old links and replace them with polyurethane bushings available at 4x4parts.com, but a lot more labor is required to press out the old bushings and press in the new ones. You can purchase new links at rockauto.com Search for [Part Number Search]: 551114w020 (rear left lower arm) 551104w020 (rear right lower arm) 551202w100 (upper arm) - you'll need 2 of them. All parts are about $46 each, so it'll cost ya about $200 in parts to fix this.

You will probably be OK, though if you find the engine struggling to maintain speed in 5th gear, you may want to just slow it down and drive in 4th. For safety, I would probably not exceed 60mph anyway. 50-55mph is wiser. I'll assume the trailer has brakes. If not, don't even think about towing it. Your stock brakes aren't up to the task of slowing down 10,000 lbs of mass very effectively, especially when 60% of it is behind the rear axle! Handling could be dangerous as well. You will likely put additional wear on the clutch with the trailer attached, especially if you're stopped on an incline. If at all possible, avoid stopping on an incline with the trailer/car in tow. If you already have a Class III hitch, the trailer, and the Challenger, load it up and take it for a local drive to see how the combo handles at speeds up to 45mph. Quadruple your following distance and reaction time, because as someone else pointed out, you can probably get up to speed OK, but slowing down will be an entirely different matter. If it feels too unstable, it's not going to get any better at 60mph.

To me, that's what it feels like when the engine is off, especially after I've pumped the pedal several times.

Two more for ya: Repeat tests 1 and 5 while revving the engine to 2000-3000rpm. What happens? BTW, this sounds like it could be your problem: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=327759

Weird. Do some experiments: Go get a buddy, drive to an empty parking lot with no obstacles, or a place with lots of space on level ground where you'll have minimal chance of losing control of the truck or crashing into something and report the results of each test with regard to how the brake responds. (All tests require engine to be running before test begins.) Test 1: From a dead stop, depress clutch, engage reverse gear, release clutch and brake and accelerate to a walking pace in reverse. Do not depress clutch (i.e go ahead and let the engine start to stall) as you depress the brake. What happens? Test 2: Same as test1, except this time depress clutch while you brake. What happens? Test 3: Ask your buddy to prepare to push the car backward. From a dead stop, depress clutch, engage 1st gear and release brake. Keep clutch depressed. Ask your buddy to start pushing. Get up to a walking pace if possible. Depress brake. What happens? Test 4: Ask your buddy to prepare to push the car backward. From a dead stop, depress clutch, engage Neutral and release brake. Keep clutch depressed. Ask your buddy to start pushing. Get up to a walking pace if possible. Depress brake. What happens? Test 5: Ask your buddy to prepare to push the car backward. From a dead stop, depress clutch, shift to Neutral and release brake and clutch. Ask your buddy to start pushing. Get up to a walking pace if possible. Depress brake. What happens? In any test, if brake fails to stop the vehicle, engage parking brake. If that fails, maintain control of the vehicle and allow vehicle to coast to a stop. For safety, do not exceed 5mph in either direction during any of the tests.

That doesn't sound like a "feature" that's included in the R50. I've never heard of something called "Reverse Descent Brake Override". You driving an automatic or manual? If you've got an auto tranny, and your truck rolls backwards while still in "D", the engine may stall and you will lose power brakes. Don't let the truck roll backwards if your transmission is in any forward gear.

I replaced all of mine with red 194 LEDs from superbrightleds.com

Looks like it's been edited, but my guess he was grumpy about internet lag that resulted in the double-post.

Yep, and also because the ends of the springs are designed to be fitted into a strut assembly.

The front coil springs have a variable diameter. They're smaller on top than on the bottom.

What brand of struts are those? Maybe the strut body diameter is a few mm larger than others like the KYB GR2, and that is preventing the needed clearance between the knuckle and the strut body. I'll have to go measure the diameter of my KYB's and check the clearance from the knuckle to the strut body (using stock bolts).

LOL. Using the SGII is a lot easier than manually entering mileage, gallons, etc. into a smartphone app! And the SGII tracks real-time fuel economy.

By the way, since you are keenly interested in fuel economy tracking, you might really like observing it (and other real-time sensor information) in real-time using a Scan-Gauge. I have one for my Pathy and one for my G37.

Kyle, You said you switched from 30x9.50's to 31x10.50's on 10/12/12? Your MPG records indicate you haven't broken 14mpg since then, even though you were observing a downward trend in September 31x10.50's are 3% taller than your previous tires, so your MPG calculations will read 3% too low compared to your previous tires. Also, your new tires are 1" wider and likely have a more aggressive tread than the previous tires, which will increase the rolling resistance. Try running 35psi in front and 32psi in the rear. Running higher pressure than that will just wear out the center of your tread faster; your Pathy looks relatively stock. I'm not saying the the only cause of your lower MPG is tires, but they definitely contribute more than you think. Did you upgrade your wheels to the Rock Crawlers on 10/12/12 also? Steel wheels are usually heavier than aluminum wheels, and the different offset will cause the tires to stick out away from the body more, increasing drag. Finally, did you put anything on your roof since the summer? When I first installed my safari roof rack, I observed an almost 2mpg decrease in mileage! It's amazing how much all the little things add up.

What's the advantage of cutting both pigtails off the springs? Doesn't that make them too short?

R50-specific, please. Thanks for the offer, though.