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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Lifted 2 inches, K&N cold Air, CB & PA system, Alpine type x Subwoofer, Pioneer speakers, Jensen Double DIN in-dash reciever, 32"x11.5"x15" BFG All terrains, MB Rims
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
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  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
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  • Location
    Los Alamos, NM

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kefferjoe's Achievements

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  1. Ok so I'm intermittently getting the A/T temp battery and brake lights coming on. Yesterday I drove to work and they were on then I went to the local parts store at lunch to get the voltage checked it came in at 9.6v I assumed alternator so I bought one. I then drove back to work with the plan to instal after work when I got home. On my way home from work the car got close to dying then all the lights turned off and the interior clock light up like it normally looks (it was a little dim). Didn't install alternator woke up the next morning all the dash lights were on again. Drove to work fine drove to auto store to get voltages checked again and again at 9.75. Drove back to work car got close to dying then all of the sudden the alternator works again. Now I'm leaving work and the lights are all on again and I presume it will stay that way until the car gets close to dying.
  2. hey guys so I'm getting the lights signaling my alternator is bad. But eventually the battery gets to a point where the alternator starts working again. This I think means that the voltage regulator is bad correct? So do I need to buy a new alternator?
  3. Update: I have a 3.5L and it for sure does have the shims. I looked at the clearances and all of them are in tolerance, and pretty well within it with the exception of one of them being at .33mm (max spec being .37). I am noticing not much oil is reaching the lifters on cylinder 1. So I'm back to trouble shooting. Maybe the plate behind the rear timing plate is leaking? Or maybe excessive sludge build up? I want to try and clean the sludge out first then worst case scenario pull the timining cover. Any solid suggestion for sludge removal to try and help get more oil up top?
  4. I plan on cleaning it out as best I can and then it looks like one of the shims is really close to being out of spec (I'm measuring .34 max spec is .35). I'm going to let the engine cool off completely and then remeasure the clearances again. There was a ton of sludge build up a lot of places obviously the PO did a terrible job on oil maintainences.
  5. Also any idea how to set cylinder 1 to TDC in its compression cycle without taking off both valve covers...I only have the passenger side one off atm
  6. Just pulled off the valve cover...lots of sludge in lower plenum and some gunk under valve cover. Going to clean and check clearances of shims... How much oil should I have found in this area just after pulling the valve cover off? There wasn't much free standing oil
  7. Looking at alldata DIY it says this is doable by removing the adjustment shim using 2 special tools?
  8. Is there a way to replace the shims without removing the cams? Or is there's way to remove the cams without disassembling the entire timing chain system?
  9. Hello, I'm getting a terrible ticking under the passenger side valve cover. I'm going to a shop on Wednesday to have the cover taken off and possibly have the valve lash adjusted. I've tried reading up on the forums about this ticking issue in the 3.5s and haven't yet found what exactly causes this ticking issue. Would a valve adjustment be effective or is it pointless on the shim bucket type lifters?
  10. Also I erased the codes and they haven't come back since
  11. Could faulty sensors be causing the clicking noise?
  12. Also had codes P1110 and P1145 which is RH and LH Intake valve timing control sensor
  13. Hello, I just bought a 01 Pathfinder. Found it on Craigslist for $2100, it's an 01 with 145000 actual miles. It is the 3.5. However the guy was getting rid of it because it has a noise coming from the passenger side valve cover it sounds like a pen tapping against a metal trash can lid, and it speeds up with rpms. I assume this is a bad lifter. However I know the 3.5s have shims. I tried some various auto parts shop remedies and nothing really worked so I am going to take the valve cover off and look at replacing the lifters or something. Does anyone know of a how to guide or any tips before I get started? Also where is the best place to buy replacement lifters, and how long should this job take me?
  14. So fan clutch sheared off and along with it came the fan pulley. I'm new to the 3.5L engines so i have no idea what needs to be replaced. I know the fan clutch but the pulley confuses me....it looks like it isn't attached to the water pump (which is good) but where do i get this part? And how long does it take to replace? I cant find it on autozone.com nor can i find much info on it online.
  15. Ok my scenario definitely is oddly attached to my gas light. I tore the cluster apart in a gas station put it back together and it didn't work...filled up my tank and then boom left side lit up! Any ideas as to why?
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