TheGhost

Oh also I fixed the rear driver side door, so thats great. Also fixed up the rear hatch to where the only remaining issue is the key will not turn to the left or "unlock" position. Not sure if I'll ever be able to fix that without a $$ locksmith though. So new tally: 1. Six engine codes 2. 0.08A draw thru SECU, probably some subsystem 3. rear hatch key cannot turn left (to unlock) 4. brake pedal easily pushes to the floor 5. sway bar links are zip tied on... 6. rear trailing arms are garbage. 7. rear wiper is seized

The FOB was tied to an aftermarket alarm system. Removed that and got a new SECU too. Neither changes fixed the 0.08A leak. At some point I'll go thru the SECU sub systems and try find where the problem is. For now though... bigger issues. CEL is burnt out (oops) and reading the codes gives: 1. P1448 - ELC System 2 Fault; Vent Control Valve 2. P0455 - Evaporative emission (EVAP) system - large leak detected 3. P1145 - Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor (Bank 2) 4. P1140 - Water In Fuel Condition Water In Fuel Condition; Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor,LH Bank 1 5. P0161 - Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 2, bank 2, heater control - circuit malfunction O2 Sensor Heater 6. P0420 - Catalytic converter system, bank 1 - efficiency below threshold Yeesh. Not sure where to start. Really hope there ain't water in the fuel Looks like at least 2 issues and maybe 3. #1 EVAP, #2 Intake timing bank 1&2, #3 and maybe O2 sensor. Looks like EVAP is a common problem on these so hopefully the forum will rescue me xD

Turns out I'm an idiot. The 7A was from the headlights being on. The Fuse 24/Elec B pulls 0.08A all the time, and its from the SECU. With SECU unplugged I get 0A thru fuse 24 and 0.03A at the battery which is in spec. Now to track down what part of the SECU is the issue. Not sure if its the unit, or something the unit tries to power... I think it powers a lot of stuff. Unfortunately the electronic locks and interior lights don't with with SECU unplugged. I'm pretty sure the FOB that came with the pathy isn't OEM as it says ASTRA on it and looks kinda funny. The FOB also doesn't work. Issue could definitley be related to an aftermarket FOB install or something. Might try find its receiver.

Unfortunately Fuse 24 powers like 15 different things. And the 7A not flowing through the fuse, but somewhere else, makes me think it might be a relay that fuse 24 activates. I'm going to check the other fuses in the driver are and engine bay and then start looking at the sub-systems of Fuse 24/Elec B...

Decided to keep track of my work on the $1000 Pathy I just picked up in Mass. 3rd Pathfinder I've owned and this one is an absolute POS. Might've got ripped off we'll see. Not sure how long I'll keep this one, but the last one I had I made into a proper trail rig so thought I'd keep this one's saga here. Anyways right of the bat its got: - 7A draw on the battery when fuse #24/Elec B is connected (only ~0.08A thru the fuse though) and 0.03A draw with fuse 24 pulled - all with ignition off. - rear hatch key cannot turn left (to lock) and no mechanical linkage exists on the key thing to the unlocker, plus electronics to the key thing are unplugged - rear wiper is seized - brake pedal easily pushes to the floor - sway bar links are zip tied on... - rear trailing arms are garbage - countless dents, rust, etc. - rear driver door will not move, stuck locked Gotta be some others too. First thing is fixing the 7A draw that ruined the last battery and means pulling fuse 24 when parked.

Lift After that adventure, which included scraping the bottom along rocks for hours straight, the first thing to do was a lift. I went with the classic: LRD 9447s + Bilstein 33-185552 in the rear OME 2928 + KYB Excel-G struts and strut mounts front + 2x K90474 camber bolts total. I bought the fancy proper strut spring compressors and other than one 14mm camber bolt head shearing (after the nut was off) and a bunch of drilling things went pretty smoothly. In the rear I got an extra 2.5" unloaded and and extra 2.7" when loaded with ~150lbs. Not sure what the front ended up as but I'm super happy how it sits (irl the bodyline angle isn't quite as much as seen here). I also have 1" spacers for the front and rear but I'm not sure if I'll ever install them. The ride is great... other than the front shock topout. I had read about this briefly on some other pages but not thought about it too much as its rarely mentioned. If I was to do it again I would go with the OME MD or even light duty springs front front and just pair it with a 1" spacer. I find the topout really annoying when bombing down a 4x4 road and don't really understand why more people don't complain about it. I suspect they might just drive slow offroad. Hopefully the front will sag a bit to give me more travel and I can make a 0.5" spacer for the front to compensate

After getting back from the trip with a solid high center, torn up tires, and a bent frame + barely intact power steering line I decided to keep it, lift it, protect it, give it real tires, and maybe some more?

Welcome to my up-to-date (2022) 2002 Pathy build! Bought this 5 speed 2002 SE with 370k km (180k km on the engine) for a work wheeling trip and decided to keep it after its superb performance...

thanks! I'm going to try make em myself or just stack a bunch of washers

Should this spacer come with the KYB SM5329 kit? I just got both of my strut mount kits in the mail from rockauto but neither come with the pictured spacer Its required and should have come in the package right???

Is this KYB SM5329 Kit supposed to come with that spacer? I just got my two kits today and neither has the metal spacer in it...

Zack is this the metal part that attaches to 54320? I just received my 2x KYB SM5329, but they came without the metal part that is pictured. Does it pull off of the OEM strut? Why is in the pic but not in the box I got? Thanks for any help! Im worried my package is messed up...

Does anyone know the difference between 5100 33-185552 and B8 5125 33-185552? ie: 5100 vs 5125? I can't seem to find reliable info on any differences and both are available at the same price for me to buy for my '02. Even the link above that is refereed to as a 5125 has 5100 in the name and PN but in another place on the amazon page has "B8 5125". Are they the same?

Oh shoot my bad, I had a typo in the original Q. I'm wondering about the difference between the 5100 33-185552 and 5125 33-185552. Many suppliers have the 33-185552 with different series numbers

Does anyone know the difference between 5100 33-185552 and B8 5125 33-185552? ie: 5100 vs 5125? I can't seem to find reliable info on any differences and both are available at the same price for me to buy for my '02.

still around wilson? Wondering if you solved this.

Thanks adam! Those get quite a bit more $$ with me from Canada but yeah maybe the 1.5" lift option there is my best bet. I could do that with 1 of the spacers I have or maybe shave down one of my spacers so the lift isn't too much over 2" overall.

bump

reference material: JGC front coil: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=201281&cc=1182114 Pathy rear coil: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=201174&cc=1211993

So I know this has been beaten to death, but I'm curious what the opinions are for this specific case and I also just want to write it down for my own sake. I've got a '95 4 door with the tire carrier on original coils and I've put 2" lift spacers in it. The rear still sags a bit and its even worse when loaded with people and gear, plus I soon want to get a hitch and haul dirtbikes. I want stiffer springs and also ~0.75-1" higher rear. I imagine I could just get whatever is on rockauto and get 0.5" more lift in the rear(just for having new springs vs old), but right now rock auto is stocked out and I also want a stiffer ride than I currently have that will be ok with a dirtbike and camping gear every once in a while. I see that people often put in JGC front coils. Running the numbers on rockauto: JGC: rated load length = 15", rated load = 503lbs, nominal springrate 146 lbs/in. Pathy: rated load length = 13", rated load = 566lbs, nominal springrate 161 lbs/in. 15"-(566lbs-503lbs)/146lbs/" = 14.55" resting length, 1.55" higher than stock I also expect I would get ~0.5" extra just switching to new springs, so I'd be at ~2-2.1" higher than currently This means I could switch to the JGC springs and take out one lift spacer blocks to be 1-1.1" higher than I currently am, but I would still be left with the lower springrate JGC. What would you guys recommend? Does my reasoning/math check out? I see lots of comments that the JGC springs give 2.5-3" lift over stock, but my math disagrees (only 1.55" when not accounting for the spring newness). The other thing I'm confused about is I've seen some people say the JGC springs are stiffer, but that's not what rockauto says when comparing their nominal springrates (I know they are variable) or the wire thickness. Thanks for any thoughts!

reference material: JGC front coil: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=201281&cc=1182114 Pathy rear coil: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=201174&cc=1211993

So I know this has been beaten to death, but I'm curious what the opinions are for this specific case and I also just want to write it down for my own sake. I've got a '95 4 door with the tire carrier on original coils and I've put 2" lift spacers in it. The rear still sags a bit and its even worse when loaded with people and gear, plus I soon want to get a hitch and haul dirtbikes. I want stiffer springs and also ~0.75-1" higher rear. I imagine I could just get whatever is on rockauto and get 0.5" more lift in the rear(just for having new springs vs old), but right now rock auto is stocked out and I also want a stiffer ride than I currently have that will be ok with a dirtbike and camping gear every once in a while. I see that people often put in JGC front coils. Running the numbers on rockauto: JGC: rated load length = 15", rated load = 503lbs, nominal springrate 146 lbs/in. Pathy: rated load length = 13", rated load = 566lbs, nominal springrate 161 lbs/in. 15"-(566lbs-503lbs)/146lbs/" = 14.55" resting length, 1.55" higher than stock I also expect I would get ~0.5" extra just switching to new springs, so I'd be at ~2-2.1" higher than currently This means I could switch to the JGC springs and take out one lift spacer blocks to be 1-1.1" higher than I currently am, but I would still be left with the lower springrate JGC. What would you guys recommend? Does my reasoning/math check out? I see lots of comments that the JGC springs give 2.5-3" lift over stock, but my math disagrees (only 1.55" when not accounting for the spring newness). The other thing I'm confused about is I've seen some people say the JGC springs are stiffer, but that's not what rockauto says when comparing their nominal springrates (I know they are variable) or the wire thickness. Thanks for any thoughts!

Where did you get the parts? How was the install? And did it fix your loose backend? About to try this I think.

@Bobsteriffic @Atomicrider Did you have any luck with this? I've got a similar sounding wiggle/shimmy, but mostly when I let on/off the gas on corners over 35mph. Wondering if its the panhard/track arm or control/trailing arm bushings. How rough of a job was it and where did you purchase them from?

@Mr_Reverse How is the install of these? I've got a crazy sway in the rear end when I let on/off the gas at speed, especially corners. Thinking of trying to replace the trailing/control arm as well as panhard/track bar bushings.