TheGhost

found em on RockAuto in a weird category, $15 each tho still. Might wait till it gets more pronounced.. so much to drop for some bushings that might be fine.

Yeah I'm starting to wonder. Today I checked tires and they were at 25-28psi, filled to 40psi and its a lot better now I think. Highway driving will tell. The bushings do seem good though when pushing the car around by hand and jumping on it. Its pretty awkward to get parts for the bushings it seems. I can find control/trailing arms everywhere for the R50 but 87-95 is nothing! Only part I can find is the bushings here for a whopping $200 USD with shipping https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18914449-pathfinder-split-design-trailing-arm-bushings.html brutal

update?

Any updates? Got a strange shift/wobble when going on/off the gas over 20kph ( mostly when going off) and already replaced front tension/compression/strut rod bushings

This fix your problem?

Hey thanks for the reply! Turned out the amp wasn't bypassed when new head unit was installed and that was the issue: amp was garbage. I bypassed the amp and now one of the tweeters is great! other is blown. Going to get a set of component speakers and replace the column and door speakers up front

Cool yeah I don't mind doing a little cutting and mounting for them. I think I will for sure to fit any new tweeters in as these OEM ones are incredibly small. Is it possible to fit 6x9s in if you take out/make a new white mounting bracket? or is that realllly pushing it, be happy with 5x7? Oh yeah adding some damping material is smart! I kind of want to do that to reduce road noise now too...

Got it! It was the resistors! good thing I pulled the head unit out to look at it or it woulda taken forever to figure out. Now all I need is to properly bypass the amp, add caps to the column tweeter wires, buy new tweeters, and maybe new door speakers! Did you get something like this then you mean? https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_500SS69C/Alpine-S-S69C.html?tp=73303 Something with nice big mid-woofers and then super small (1"x~0.5") tweeters to put in the A columns? Its hard to decide between doing tweeters + midwoofer component speakers or buying separate tweeters and a two-way door speaker. For the back you said you went with larger 6.5" midwoofers, did you also replace the small tweeters in the back? Or just go to a 6 speaker system?

I've checked all the EQ stuff, all 0 for now. Not sure if I had loudness on or off, but still huge difference in reachable volume with and without amp. That's right its going through the factory wiring and factory AMP, with all factory speakers. I'm trying to fix the existing system before buying and installing new speakers. Other than the front left column tweeter being fully dead or not plugged in the issue I'm having is: I want to bypass the factory amp but my headunit doesn't seem to get loud enough without the AMP. Something that just occurred to me: When pulling the head unit out I noticed whoever installed it put some resistors in series with the wires heading out (I imagine) of the head unit and to the amp (guessing again). Could these resistors be why the speakers don't get very loud with the head unit maxed out? I've seen around, including in @Slartibartfast guide, that the output from the head unit and amplifier is so much the usable volume is often 1-8 ish. For me I can go up to 25 on the head unit without it being too loud. Maybe if I remove the resistors it will work as intended and I can fully remove the amp ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Again, not experienced with speakers, but if there ARE resistors in series with my speakers thats pretty messed up as they won't get the right voltage. Make sense?

Thanks first gen! I just got in from bypassing the front amp for the front left and right speakers. I found that even with the JVCKD-SX980 head unit turned up to 50 the volume was only still low-medium, with amp 15 was medium. Does this mean my particular head unit shouldn't be used without an amp? I see so many guides on here about bypassing an amp as soon as you get an aftermarket head unit, but my maxed volume was just so low. Doing this I also discovered that my right column tweeter and left door speaker are both out/quiet because of the amp and that the left column tweeter is broken. So I don't want to keep using the amp either The specs of the JVC say it should make 50Wpeak/20Wrms from each channel/speaker. I don't know much about audio but 2-4A going to each speaker sounds like a lot to me and I would expect MUCH more sound than I am getting.

I also notice the head unit says it should only be used to drive 4-8ohm impedance speakers... My factory left door speaker is 2.6 ohms, does this mean the speaker is dead or that I shouldn't use the JVC head unit without an amp?

Hmm ok. I think I might do something in the middle of both of these, two way 5x7s in the doors and then try add some new small tweeters after a while to the columns. I think they are fully dead and it could be the amp as the left door speaker is also 90% out, it gives a very very weak signal that I can only hear when pumping the volume up and the fade to the left. The head unit is JVC KD-SX980 (http://resources.jvc.com/Resources/00/00/97/49709ien.pdf) which looks like it can be used without the factory amp? Maybe this afternoon I will try bypassing the front amp with some hacked wires and see if that fixes the front left speaker.

What do you guys do with the small column speakers on the front driver and passenger side when replacing the door speakers? My small speakers both seem basically dead, but they don't show up on crutchfield.

What do you guys do with the small column speakers on the front driver and passenger side when replacing the door speakers? My small speakers both seem basically dead, but they don't show up on crutchfield.

This solves it. Wiring & colors (for me) on the sensor-side plug/harness is: ----------- | | --------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------- || 1: reverse (W/B) | 2: tranny N (L/B) | 3:4wd (W/B) | 4: VSS (red) || || 4: reverse (R/B) | 5: tranny N (B) | 6:4wd (Y/B) | 4: VSS (W) || -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- and the secret that it took me this long to realize, which I think you are saying, is there are TWO neutral switches, one for the tranny and one for the transfer case/4wd. The 4wd indicator lamp has two switches in series, as you are saying, the 4wd switch and the transfercase N switch. The order of sensor mounting on the truck from front to back on 1995 4wd MT is Reverse, Tranny N, Transfercase N, 4wd switch, and VSS (ty mr_reverse). I am still not 100% sure why the 4wd indicator light needs both the '4wd switch' - which presumably is closed if you are in 4H or 4L, and the 'Tranny N' - which is presumably open if you are in N on 4wd selection, is still weird to me. I haven't crawled under to take pics or confirm this is 100% correct yet as its super wet here right now, but I should be able to get my indicator light working correctly without too much fuss now. I also noticed that in my harness wire #3 (attached to transfercase N, the 1st stop of the 4wd indicator light wires) is quite melted. I wonder if it shorted against the case or the other terminal and burnt out the indicator light bulb as the bulb does not light up when starting the truck. Thank you everyone for the help! hopefully in a week I can post a photo with my indicator lights working

Ahh is it that back one switch is the 4wd/transfer switch and front one is the neutral? And for some reason there is some extra thing going on down there with the extra two wires? All those two switches do is the indicator dash light correct? Gotta ask all the things I can while I got u here hawairish.

Whew! Now there is the reply I've been looking for! Thank you so much. It is MT. Where I have been confused was comparing TF-9, EL-44 and EL-86 connectors #4E, your reply just made this clear to me (I think). There is only one transfer/neutral switch BUT it has two wires, each with a separate plug, as shown in EL-86. Is that the correct interpretation? If so, the 'transfer switch #2' must be my transfer/neutral/4x4 indicator switch because it is to the rear of the transfer case as TF-9 shows. However I am still unsure what 'transfer switch #1' is as there are already 3 other sensors down there, each with two wires. 6 wires + 2 transfer switch wires = 8, which is all there is room for in the plug near the relay bank on passenger side engine bay. Re-reading your post I am confused about 'Otherwise, if you have the MT, the other switch might be the Transfer/Neutral Position Switch (doesn't exist on AT).' Do you know what both switches are then? Tomorrow I can grab a better photo, had this already. $8, thats what I'm looking for. Though I might just grab an extension cord, soldering iron, and heatshrink once this is sorted

Yeah that's the intended operation I think. It seems there are a few different implementations however as the manual shows it a couple different ways, omitting some parts in the TF section that are shown or hinted at in some of the EL section.

Thanks! maybe I'll try that, sounds like a decent location. Torn between that and doing it right as I also could do plugs and replace plenum/intake gaskets at the same time if I tore it all apart.

Oh yeah grounding to the case makes sense! Maybe that's what the second terminal does on each, should be easy to check and then I can confirm I have them wired to the proper terminal. Thanks!

Hey thanks FirstGen! What I'm confused about is that I have two transfer switches, and each only has one wire going to it but it looks like each has connections for two wires. The two connections are not shorted together either. See my drawing for what my harness looks like excluding the neutral, reverse, and speed sensors. Note the extra unconnected thing (shown green just for reference). The FSM contradicts itself/is confusing over if there should be two switches each with one wire, each with two wires, or one switch with two wires. The info I've found here is also confusing, it seems some people with '94s have one two wire switch only, is that what you have too? I've got a '95, I thought it would be the same as 90-94. I think my best bet might be to ensure the indicator bulb isn't burnt out and then just mess around putting into 4WD and out and using a multimeter, I've got two wires to go back to the dash and 4 possible terminal points. Any advice to speed that up is welcome!

Hey darth you still around to help me with this? Today I pulled and re-loomed the 8 wire bundle these two one wire switches are part of, I think thats right they are for illuminating 4wd? Both of mine have the wire to the switches hanging on by barely a thread to one of the leads of the switches. I'm confused why there is only one wire to each switch when the switches themselves have two separate leads/connection points on them? Is that right? How do you know which connection point is the right one? I guess my 4x4 light doesn't work because it never has illuminated. How to I buy new leads/switches if I cant fix it myself? I checked my local auto shop and rockauto and the part doesn't seem to exist.

Is anyone still around to help me with this? Instead of one transfer switch I seem to have two with one wire each??? Today I pulled and re-loomed the 8 wire bundle these two switches are part of. Both of mine have the wire to the switches hanging on by barely a thread to one of the leads of the switches. I'm confused why there is only one wire to each switch when the switches themselves have two separate leads/connection points on them? Is that right? How do you know which connection point is the right one? Also the FSM shows only one switch, but with two wires. I guess my 4x4 light doesn't work because it never has illuminated. How to I buy new leads/switches if I cant fix it myself? I checked my local auto shop and rockauto and the part doesn't seem to exist.

Is anyone still around to help me with this? Today I pulled and re-loomed the 8 wire bundle these two switches are part of. Both of mine have the wire to the switches hanging on by barely a thread to one of the leads of the switches. I'm confused why there is only one wire to each switch when the switches themselves have two separate leads/connection points on them? Is that right? How do you know which connection point is the right one? I guess my 4x4 light doesn't work because it never has illuminated. How to I buy new leads/switches if I cant fix it myself? I checked my local auto shop and rockauto and the part doesn't seem to exist.

Hey thanks for the reply, glad people are still active here! Checked the gasket! looks like they're the right ones. Sounds like I'll just have to take my time with it and maybe leave her apart overnight... might wait till spring lol. Thanks for the link, that's way better than my Chilton manual, it feels like it just introduces everything but doesn't actually show enough detail to do any work when you're starting with almost zero experience.