adamzan

Can you post a picture of what you have? I replaced the one on my 1995 and it was as simple as screwing the old part into the new drier.

That job is next on the list for mine. I replaced the ones in my old truck with polyurethane ones but it made the ride harsh. I'll be going with rubber this go-round. Right now the rear end wobbles when you shift gears.

The original ones would have looked like that when they were new 30 years ago I'm in Ontario Canada, probably not worth the shipping lol

It may be because the replacements have a bolt threaded into where the sensor goes in the pictures. You just remove it to put the sensor in.

That's the wrong way of thinking about it though. If you're going to build a rig from an offroading perspective, you shouldn't look at it from the price you can buy another truck from. If you are building it to keep for years to come, it's a small price to pay. And if you can't afford to buy one after even after saving for a few months, then it's probably not a sport you can afford lol. @!*% breaks and it can get expensive.

That's what I figured, of course the Xterra boards are just full of people arguing it won't work, but have never tried. Yes it is a WD22. I'm surprised being an SE SC it does not have an LSD so it should work in my carrier. I was going to get one for my wd21 but it has an LSD and its too clean/rare to wheel now so I'm just keeping it mint. On sale here too: https://www.justdifferentials.com/PT3220-p/pt3220.htm

I wanted to put the lockright in my Xterra, but they have 33 spline axles. The guy told me it doesn't matter. Can you confirm? (The differential is the one part of my truck I've never had apart lol) https://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/powertrax-rear-lock-right-locker-nissan-h233b-4-pinion-carrier-pt-3220.html

The oiling problem affected the newer pathfinders more. The WD21 MAF is pretty resilient it seems.

I did this to my pathfinder when I first bought it. It had to be one of the most rewarding jobs I ever did to it. Still looks great years later (I strip and apply some kind of wax every year).

In Canada at least, you can buy used airbags if you want, its just body shops can't put them in cars for repairs especially for insurance jobs.

So how is everyone doing now? They're starting to open things up here, maybe too soon, but the economy won't survive much longer. I feel like the damage will be around for years.

If you were close I'd sell you the 4.63 disc rear end out of my parts truck. It even had new pads/rotors/calipers shortly before I parked it!

It is 13 Inch/lbs. What I do usually is do the final tightening with the wheel on, and just tighten it enough so there's no noticeable play. Been doing it like that since I got a wd21 in 2005.

Wait until you have to remove the front diff by yourself...haha.

Like Mr. Reverse said, it goes by weight. I used a kitchen scale and measured the whole apparatus sitting on it before hand, then just noted how much went in. You can just use a syringe and put the oil in the lines. That's what I did, I wasn't buying a 100 dollar oil injector lol. And Rustflames just posted the sticker I was talking about! I'm not close to my truck right now and I doubt my Xterra is exactly the same. As for the oil I couldn't find PAG oil near me, at least no one would sell it to me, but I did find ester oil with dye, which is supposed to be compatible. I did that work in 2016 and it hasn't blown up yet! And it is colder than most of my friend's new cars.

5w20 is too thin for warmer temps IMO. That viscosity did not even exist when our trucks were built. I would seriously stick with 5w30 or maybe if you want hotter temp protection, 5w40. I don't know why the WIX filters made my oil pressure weird. I just know it made the oil pressure light stay on way longer (or gauge took forever to move) at start up than usual. I was able to reproduce it on 3 different pathfinders. I only run the OEM filter now. As for the plugs, I tried bosch platinum once years ago and the truck ran noticeably worse, than it did with the worn NGK's. I always recommend using what the FSM states. Which in our case is NGK BKR6EY.

Do the bubbles ever stop or only when you let off the throttle? That is a sign of exhaust gas or compression in the coolant. I would do a block test (parts stores rent these) before buying any more parts. Just to be sure. The radiators are also known to get full of scale on these. My dads would get hot driving at speed or with a load (or the air con). The shop replaced half the cooling system before the radiator, but that was it.

I would try some good 5w30 synthetic. What filters are you using? I know wix are good quality but they also caused my oil pressure to be slow on startup.

I always run 5w30 in all my VG's. I once ran 10w30 and it was noticeably louder especially on startup. Yours doesn't sound too bad to be honest. The injectors are also known for being loud.

Here is what the FSM says: That should give you a good basis to start. The refrigerant should be on a sticker under the hood. Mine was near the brake booster. FSM link: https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Pathfinder/1995/ha.pdf I just went through this on my Xterra and added the amounts it said to in there. Everything is working great so far. The only way to know if the system is perfectly adjusted would be to remove the compressor, drain it, flush out all the lines, etc. I didn't feel like doing that. I erred on the side of a little too much oil. It still cools to 38F though.

No they were similar to these: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/282709905716 I did a quick google search and they say H4 bulbs so it should be the right one. They also have projectors now It seems. Didn’t have that stuff for our trucks 10 years ago. The clear front ones are trash and I wouldn’t use them. No pics I’m afraid but the lights just bolted in. Just had to adapt the 9004 to an H4 connector. If you search on this site you’ll see some info on making a relay harness.

I'm not sure how you live without AC. It's so humid here in the summer you just sweat standing outside!

If you can drive out of the vibration by adjusting speed I would look at the u joints even if they seem good, they could be too stiff and it is very common on the r50. Also check that the tires are balanced well, rotate them to the back to see if it changes. Last thing is the driveshaft could be bent/out of balance. I had the weight fall off of mine on the back and it caused a vibration.

Lol yeah right.