adamzan

I got one of these on the recommendation of Mr.510 and it has been the best tool in the garage lately: https://www.joesracing.com/product/joes-caster-camber-gauge-with-magnetic-adapter/ I just set the alignment on the Xterra since the shop decided to leave it with .75 + camber on one side and - .75 on the other. To say it drove like @!*% was an understatement.

You should be able to slide the caliper off the top pin. I had to work mine back and forth with a hammer, but I got it eventually.

I think redhead will rebuild yours if you send it in. I know MY1PATH has one. The WD22 box is @!*%, it also doesn't use banjo bolts, but flared lines with nuts, kind of like brake lines. It always leaks on the Xterra, supposedly mine was on it's third when I bought it. Look how the seal is on the output shaft vs the wd21 one. It is a bad design change.

If yours is an automatic you can wire in a relay to give a full 12v to the solenoid signal wire. Mr Reverse had a how to on this years ago, we did it to my 1994 SE in 2009 and it never had another problem.

My 95 came with 31s and a manual trans, the speedo is only off by 5km/h at 100km/5 on 33s. Not bad, or worth messing with. My 94 SE with 33s was 7km/h off at 100km/h. It was automatic trans, though. The 95 has 4.3 rear end and the 94 had 4.6. My first truck a 95 XE, came with 235s, it was off something crazy like 14 or 17%.

87-89 were orange. When the brought the 4 door in it went to white lights. My friend has a 90 and they're white. Someone swapped that speedo, and they probably found a nice low mileage one to put in. I'd be replacing the timing belt asap if you haven't already.

Yeah, we've only owned 93-newer so I never had to deal with that. But I do remember it on my moms old mazda 929, it was a 1989 and you had to do that.

I've seen it in many Xterras (also vg33) but never a wd21. They must have changed bearing suppliers for the newer ones.

That oil cooler leak is pretty common. The o rings should be available from Nissan. I've had to do them on a few VQ35s.

Nice work. I'm looking forward to seeing dyno runs after it's running. On another note, photobucket works again? Or do you actually pay them?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1995,pathfinder,3.0l+v6,1211993,suspension,control+arm+bushing,7532 They are the same for a 1990. What you want is the rear control arm bushings. Here are the ones for the panhard/track bar (the one that goes from the frame on the right to the axle on the left): https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1995,pathfinder,3.0l+v6,1211993,suspension,track+bar+bushing,10416

I did the same, just the front cups, holes weren't too bad and someone had clearly replaced one of the rods already. It's been 4 years and It still holds an alignment so thats good. If I knew about the proper cups I'd have gotten those. But the bearing races seem like they hold the bushing better honestly.

It is looking good though, man.

If the frame isn't rotten it's worth saving. These trucks are getting hard to find and rare. I never see one in my area ever anymore, except my own.

Yeah I like the one on my Xterra, except the filter is pretty tiny... Though it seems all manufacturers are going that way.

Toyota rav4? 2nd Gen Xterra?

If you're going to drive the truck in the winter, do yourself a favor and get it oil sprayed. It seems like that is a way less common thing in the US than Canada, I get all my cars done every year that see winter. The pathy gets parked in the garage for the season, though.

People on here complaining about the oil filter location (for the most part) have not worked on a wide variety of cars haha. There is much, much worse.

Most of the time I've found they weren't stuck, but there is a lot of crap in the plug wells preventing the socket from seating properly. Actually I'd say 100% of the time that's what it is. I've never had a seized plug in a VG.

Lol the one in my membership profile was 2 trucks ago. Probably should update that.

You could probably save a good chunk of change by taking the interior apart yourself. I've patched many of those rusted out rear floors. I didn't do an "oem" looking patch but I did cut out the rust, form a patch, and then welded it flush into the floor. It looked fine after painting it and it is under the truck so no one will notice. I'm assuming the body shop wants to cut the entire rear seat area out and weld in a new piece?

I honestly just grab the best aftermarket rotors I can find (raybestos or delco professional are good) and some good semi metallic pads. Ceramic has a @!*% cold bite and I find semi-metallic work the best on the pathfinder. I ran Wagner ThermoQuiet Ceramics once and I tore them off the truck after 10k because I couldn't handle it anymore.

That's about where it normally runs 1/4-1/3 on the gauge. Do you have good heat? If so I wouldn't worry about the thermostat.

That looks great. And thank you for actually masking off the lock cylinders and door handles. Nothing looks worse than that to me lol.

My 1995 still has them, surprisingly, I did replace the bad parts with some new stuff when I replaced the condenser. With a new fan clutch she blows 40 degree air at idle and that is on a 90+ day with humidity. It's colder than most of my friends/coworkers cars feel at idle. Then again when I pulled a vacuum, I went for lunch and left it running for almost 2 hours by accident lol. If I put my hand in front of the condenser I feel a lot of air being moved, then again I replaced the radiator as well. The old one was very caked with mud and debris from over the years. I'm sure that prevented the air from the fan getting to the condenser. The other thing I don't like about e-fans is I have been on the trail where someone's has died after a water crossing. It's just my opinion that the original style fan is more reliable. But this is the r50 forum and I'm getting off topic so...