Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Harbinger last won the day on April 3 2020

Harbinger had the most liked content!

About Harbinger

  • Birthday 06/23/1982

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1995 SE When I first joined up I had an 87, but had to sell it a few years ago.
  • Place of Residence
    Boise, ID USA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Boise, ID USA

Recent Profile Visitors

11,400 profile views

Harbinger's Achievements

NPORA Old-Timer

NPORA Old-Timer (5/5)



  1. Yeah that photo was after a few good whacks with a 4lb/1.8kg hammer. I'll cut out an area outside of the broken spots to make sure I contain it. Still trying to find a decent piece of scrap metal to plate it with. I work for a manufacturing company and have been checking the scrap bins, but all the pieces so far are too small or too thin. We also use mostly stainless, so that might be a decent option if I can find some 11ga. Drew up a fishplate style patch in inventor, and sent it to a few metal companies in town looking for some quotes. Edit - Found a piece of 1/8" 304 Stainless that is big enough to work. Just wondering if combining it with whatever mild steel our frames are made out of is a good idea. Hobart sells a 309L wire they say is good for joining the two, so not sure if that's the way to go or if I should hold out for some carbon steel.
  2. For the 1995's I think this is a common spot for them to rot out. This is the worst of it, but think it's also the extent of it. It didn't look like that until I struck it with a hammer a few times. Haven't found anywhere else yet. Frame replacement isn't an option for me - don't have the money, space, or time. Just want to get this spot patched and then I'm going to sell it. Figure someone will give me $1000-1500 to have a beater for hunting/snowboarding/desert running. The junkyard is only offering $250, so screw that.
  3. Howdy all. I have some of the dreaded rot on the passenger side, over the rear axle. I've searched but old threads have no photos, so I'm sorta lost. Imgur Link of Damage I'm curious how others have repaired this, now that the kits are no longer being offered. I have a welder and can use it well enough to not confuse my welds with bird crap. 1) Is 1/4" plate too thick for this application? I figure 11ga or 1/8" would match the frame material better, but I already have some 1/4" flat bar. 2) Do I cut out the rotted section and weld the new piece to clean metal on the outside of the frame? Or is it better to place a repair piece inside the frame, after removing the rot? 3) I have a myriad of different square tube pieces - if I can find one that roughly fits the interior of the frame, would sleeving it be better? Hesitant to sleeve the outside due to the upper spring mount and the metal lines that bolt to the top of the frame. All the bolts on my frame are rusted in place and aren't easy to remove or replace. 4) Am I overthinking this and should just clean it up and slap a patch on the outside? Thanks all.
  4. Parked her at my brother's house until I get time to clean the frame rails and weld in patches. Figure I might have time around Turkey day break. Bought a 2018 Subaru in the meantime.
  5. Must be my slides then. I'll have to take a closer look. Yep - slides aren't sliding. Looking at the FSM there are two slide pins both with bolt heads - but on my calipers one of the bolts has a flat cap over it that I can't tell if it's pressed or otherwise secured in. *sigh* I'll put in an order for two new calipers.
  6. So I haven't had this happen before. My rear disc brakes both are refusing to go back over the new rotors with new pads in the calipers. Both calipers have the piston pushed in far enough that the pad is sitting below the bracket. The outside (non-piston) pad hits the rotor and then the other side of the rotor interferes with the caliper bracket. Both calipers are pretty corroded, but I cleaned up the faces that meet up against the rotor and it's still way too tight. Suggestions?
  7. It was a joke, obviously a poor one. Was saying I'd wait until I have a van to live in before worrying about solar. I don't trust my pathfinder outside of city limits so solar would be overkill when I'd be better served by other things.
  8. I'll give that a shot. Wasn't sure I'd have enough clearance to get the panel off while the door is shut - but will pull the seat and see what happens.
  9. I've been curious about doing a solar roof install - but figure it can wait until I can afford my first home van.
  10. Hello NPORA friends and family! So it's been awhile since I posted about anything, so I made sure I had something unique to come here with. Broke my passenger side mirror awhile back. Finally replaced it and had the door panel off so I could reconnect the powered/heated mirror. During this I looked toward the lock cylinder and discovered why it was just rotating. The rod connecting it had become disconnected, and one of the pieces it was connected too had come loose, and turned out to be what was blocking my window from lowering. I removed the part that was blocking the window and reassembled everything, and proudly shut the door. This is when I realized that I must have knocked the rod attaching to the door latch loose. I now can't open my passenger door at all. So - how does one open a door that has the latch rod disconnected?
  11. Ha! I've been a member for a long time, but tend to only pop on here every few years it seems. Yep, that earthquake was something else. First one I've ever experienced. Seemed very fitting as an ending to March. Just hoping it isn't a precursor to Yellowstone exploding in April.
  12. Boise Idaho reporting in. Shelter in place order was only issued last week. I'd say about 3/4 of the population here are still considered "essential", just from the traffic alone. Up to 300ish cases in my county. I'm still at work. Have an engineering internship at a manufacturer of agricultural semi trailers. So outside of all my classes going to online only, and my gym being closed for nearly a month now, life really isn't much different.
  13. Despite being diligent with my wire running during a stereo install....I get static in the radio every time my blinkers lights up.
  14. When I did my swap, my check engine light was a result of a bad O2 sensor. Went away after I got a new exhaust put on after doing the swap. It ran fine on the AT ECU, but I'm using an MT ECU for the higher cold idle. Everyone else has had a pilot bearing in the crank, except me oddly enough. I've also got two different markings under the hood for timing belt swaps, with just about 200k on the truck...so my truck might not be the best to compare too.
  15. Hi all, My original key died on me a while back. Been using my spare, but never made a backup for the new, only key. Tried to get some copies made today, but the two places I went both were out of the #38 key blank needed. Seems like it is being phased out? What has everyone else done to replace their keys?

Welcome to NPORA Forums


Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.



  • Create New...