adamzan

Idk, I last looked to update this thread and it is winter here so I am using the blower/defrost/radio/headlights always on etc. I think it's fine, its been in there for almost a year. I also have an optima yellow top battery and it hasn't roasted it yet. Noticed on a drive today it was in the mid to high 13s so I guess it is doing it's job. The xterra doesn't have a factory voltage gauge. I am using the same thing you have with the usb ports. My pathfinder still has the original alternator.

It seems fine. During normal driving it stays around 14v on the gauge. Higher when it's cold started though. I did upgrade the charge cable but left the stock one in place.

I installed one in my 2002 Xterra and it has been great. Charges well at idle and has handled winching with no issues. My buddy also installed one in his 2015 X.

I retired my 94 with similar mileage due to frame rot (that I repaired many times over the years), it never had any coolant issues but it did start to use oil when driving in hilly terrain. No smoke. I'd do some tests (compression and leak down) to verify where the problem is. With that mileage it's probably not worth just throwing head gaskets on it. I would swap in a low mileage VG33 or VG30 from a wrecked one. If you insist on keeping your block/heads/etc, you should do a full rebuild including bearings/rings/honing the walls etc. And get the heads redone as well.

The install is not fun, I had to burn mine out and cut the sleeves. The new ones pressed in fairly easily, though. It did make a considerable difference in how it drove. As well as fixing the sway/torque steer problem. I also agree with @gamellott and check out the front end as well. It can cause all sorts of other symptoms. Most common issues are worn idler arm and center link. And yes the alignment is frequently done improperly especially if they play with the caster/camber.

I've still yet to have a failed Nissan OE pump, on these trucks at least, after many years. They simply just don't seem to die. That looks like it had been sitting in a rusty tank too.

Went and fired it up, didn't start, dead battery. Sits too much. Had to boost it with the Golf, batteries aren't on the same side so that was fun. So I went and installed a battery tender. The plug hangs out the front like a block heater, but it maintains the battery. My dad uses one on his corvette he stores in the winter.

Never had that happen to me in 15 years of Pathy ownership. Honked at for many other reasons, yes lol. These days people drive by and give the thumbs up because around here mine is the only one left and it is a cool old classic to all the hipsters. But I get the odd impatient tailgater in any of the cars I own. The other day a guy in a golf R raged on me because I was in the left lane passing someone (going 20 over the limit nonetheless).

I would not use stainless. You can get strips of 1/8" plate at home depot or any metal store, last time I checked. That is what I used on mine and it held up for years until I parked the truck.

It should be fairly straight forward. I know on the auto VG there is a thick bushing in the crank vs a pilot bearing. So you'll likely need to remove/swap that. The VQ is similar. Whenever I swap engines I always plan on using all the external components from the original engine unless they are damaged. Then you know you'll have the right parts.

If everything else looks good I would leave it alone. For the drivers side the only thing you'll need is a plenum gasket. Any parts store can get them and they are not expensive. TBH if the drivers side is silent and the valve cover is not leaking, I would leave it. The only other thing you need to remove the intake plenum for is the injectors ($$$) and the fuel pressure regulator. Both are not common failures (I've had one injector fail in 15 years of pathy ownership).

Oddly enough I had issues with my cragar wheels and shaking for years. Could never really resolve it until I put them on my Xterra and that proved the truck was not the issue. I recently bought new tires from a friend that started a tire shop. He told me to come back in a week, and when I did his new lug centric balancing adapter had arrived. We balanced the tires with that and holy crap I've never had such a smooth ride. Turns out you cannot balance the soft 8 wheels through the center hole, not sure why any other shop never picked up on this, but that 100% fixed the problem. I'm glad he picked up on it. I've only owned them for 10 years....

I swapped a jdm engine into my 95, I don’t know how long it had been sitting in the warehouse, but it sounded exactly like this. Eventually it came out of it after a few oil changes and has been silent ever since. That was 5 years ago now. If I were in your shoes I would try and replace the lifter. They aren’t that expensive and at 135k that motor should have plenty of life left. Or you could try and clean it up with some seafoam or berrymans b12 in the crankcase.

I know Tungsten on here added the heated ones to his 91. I think only 93-95 had heated and power. The rest were just power. I'd definitely check the door for the harness.

Frig this is cool, I might have to get it. I have no boost on mine but I assume I could tune it more aggressively for 91 fuel being N/A?

You can turbo the KA easily but you can also swap in the supercharger from the Xterra with relative ease. I haven't done it but I have seen it a few times.

Considering the z guys used to swap pathfinder intakes into their cars, I don't think there is a better performing one

I just sent him the link to this page.

If there's flakes, rebuild it or replace it. 2000-2004 Xterra, 1990-2000 pathy 1998-2004 frontier all fit.

If you haven't found the hose yet, rock auto sells it as straight sections, and they give the diameter too. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1995,pathfinder,3.0l+v6,1211993,cooling+system,radiator+lower+hose,2057

Damn, I'm in Ottawa but I probably had some of the parts you needed. Let's see pics of the thing.

I’m really sorry to be reading this. I’m probably the only other person in Ontario other than my friend who still has a wd21. Let me mull this over... I’d still buy that calmini steering if you’d sell it to me ?.

What happens if you put it in neutral, then brake and come to a stop? If it still happens I doubt it is the transmission. You could have a bad Universal joint, but that would clunk on take off as well.

Every pan I do I just use black permatex RTV and never have any leaks. The wd21 pans come with 2 small gaskets at each end the rest is liquid sealant. I would assume the r50 is the same as my VW with the 2 piece oil pan. I used RTV on that as well with no issues.

You put it on (it does not attach to the warn hub face well, I have to take off the cap but no big deal) and then you do a roughly 20 degree sweep. It comes with detailed instructions on how to use it. I honestly set it for almost 1 deg positive camber and as much caster as I could get out of it while keeping it even on both sides. Shops are lazy. They did not even try to adjust the camber/caster and said the adjuster bolts were seized. Not sure how that could be when I just replaced the UCA bushings.