adamzan

Not sure about the rest of you but I've never been able to get a puller in there without removing the radiator. The shroud and fan are already off so why not just remove it. 2 bolts and it should lift right out. You don't need to remove the AC but just be careful getting the upper cover past the AC line. This is an R50 specific issue IIRC as the wd21 and the Xterra have different routing.

It cost me $700 canadian for my 02 X trans. It had about 120,000 km on it. Came out of a truck that was side swiped. The transfer case was included in that price so not a bad deal at all.

Facebook killed the forums and it is sad because the real database of info is here.

FTFY

I hate wheel locks and refuse to use them on any car I have.

Just get an aftermarket one. I've had no problems with the spectra premium ones from Canadian tire/Partsource. I think I paid $150 for a lifetime warranty unit. I know what you mean about the filler neck. My current 95 came with one where it was almost oval shaped and the cap would kind of tighten but not hold pressure.

You can use the auto trans radiator on the manual. I did that on mine as all the aftermarkets are the same (with the trans cooler in the bottom).

Yes it would be a dealer thing, but they are dirt cheap. At least they used to be.

When I brought my wd21 in I told them to change the oil at the same time. So I came out with new seatbelts, fresh oil and OEM filter for $40. I felt like at least giving them some business made them not treat me like some leech lol.

If you're replacing any hoses, the bypass hose is the one to do. It can be done afterwards but is a pain to get to. If the rad hoses are in good shape you can probably leave them. I've never replaced the key on any of mine, but that's not saying I've done things right either. The cam and crank seals have bit me in the ass like Slartibartfast as well. My crank seal started leaking 3 months after the job and of course before a long weekend road trip was to take place lol. The parts are pretty cheap on rock auto, so if you can stretch it I would just do it all. @Mr_Reverse aren't the keyways only an issue on the earlier VG's? I've never had a problem with any of mine, but they are all 94 and up. I do recall several people having issues with the (basically square tooth belt time frame) versions. I'm pretty sure they changed the design at one point. The VG33 style is definitely different.

I have used aftermarket belts without any problems. But the OEM ones have perfect alignment marks and are only a few dollars more.

I've always used 5w30 in mine. 10w30 is not really recommended for anything anymore. 5w30 gives the same high temp protection and better cold flow rate. Sometimes I have ran 0w40 in the truck but only when I had some left over from my VW. It started up in -30C like it was summer time!

https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Pathfinder/1995/ec.pdf

By will not crank do you mean the engine does not turn over at all? Usually if it won't start hot it could indicate poor fuel pressure if is still turning over. Have you tested the pressure with a gauge? You can rent them at most auto parts stores.

Nice job!

I've still yet to see a failed hem nissan FPR on these trucks. A lot of people change them, but there is no need at all. And in some cases it can be detrimental lol.

The ones in the wd21 are perfect in mine somehow. But there is gobs of oil and grease in that spot. The benefit of living its entire life before me at quick lube places I guess. They don't seem to do that for you anymore though lol. Sadly the Xterra has the same issue, the pin is seized but at least the hinge looks replaceable as an assembly. I had an issue where it would cause the truck to stumble on take off, and the rpms would hang at like 1.5-2k even when warm. When it was cold it was all over the place. Replacing the TPS with another (off a parts truck) resolved the issue. Then comes the problem of setting it correctly lol. I opted to swap the whole throttle body off my parts truck so it was already set in the right spot.

Thanks for posting this info. I've never been able to get one out of the tcase in one piece here in Ontario. Too much corrision.

I'm not sure, but why chance it?

No problem! Been through it myself on my 1994. I'm now parting it out but I'm in Ontario so that doesn't help you much. It has an 02 Xterra trans in it.

1988-2000 Pathfinder with VG30 or Vg33E, 1988-1997 Hardbody with the VG30E, 1998-2004 Frontier with the VG33E or 2000-2004 Xterra with the VG33E or ER will all bolt in.

You mean like heater hose? As long as it is braided inside like the hem hose, and not just generic hose it should be fine. Any pics of the head gaskets? Were they actually leaking? It is very uncommon on this engine.

If you set it to TDC, align the pulley so the first mark is aligned with the pointer on the timing cover.

Take one of the shorter ones out and match it up with a longer one of the same thread pitch. Also do not remove all the bolts on the balancer... though I see you've already done that lol. It can go back on 6 different ways, and make it really hard to set the ignition timing.