adamzan

I hate that but it is the territory of used vehicles. You get people like us who do things right, and people like them who just want it good enough to get to work the next day.

I don't think you have to pull the whole thing, probably just the lower parts around the steering, and the glove box, and the radio.

Slart if you want to trade I'll send you a fully working perfect condition manual setup...

When you pulled the distributor cap off was there any reddish/brown/gold dust or flakes? VG33 are known for the distributors failing. When it went on my roommates frontier it would idle, but stall out with any application of throttle. If you’re sure the timing is right id start there. You would only need to pull the top cover anyway. Line up the balancer first mark with the arrow on the cover, that’s TDC. Then the upper marks should be lined up.

Nice. I need to do this on my "new" 95. Forgot how ****** the lights were lol.

Depending on the cleaner you used, you may have damaged the coating on the throttle body.

The first thing I would do is verify the valve and ignition timing. It could be running a tooth or two off. The smoke is probably just oil/coolant/penetrating oil burning off on the manifold.

Honestly I have no idea what it is for. Most people just plug it with a bolt of some kind. Mine only came with one bung though so I didn't have the problem.

Mine did this with this with aftermarket CVs. I believe the brand was cardone or surtrack.

lol "cold" in California.

2015 or 2016 I believe.

I wonder if Nissan still sells it? Sometimes they surprise me. I don’t find mine overly bright but I wouldn’t call it dim. I’ll take a pic for comparison.

Yeah that's normal. I see it on most cars especially ones that do a lot of short trips. Google oil cap mayonnaise and you'll see what a blown HG will do.

Sounds like you need a blower motor resistor.

It's not really that bad. If you've done a lot of car work it should be pretty straight forward. Just make sure you have a balancer puller. Also make sure you triple check the tooth count before reassembly. The first time I did one it took me 6 hours but now I can knock them out in like 2-3 lol.

It is kind of ridiculous. Since some of the stuff on an 87 pathfinder was used even in the (up to) 2004 Xterra. I usually have to wait 1-3 days to order things or just buy from Rockauto.

Parts companies to avoid: Dorman, mevotech, cardone, moog (used to be good but now is crap). If I have to get aftermarket I try and use beck/arnley as half the time it’s an oem looking part in the box. Or ACDelco as their parts are usually okay. Ive never had a bad oem part from Nissan, or VW for my golf. The way I look at it is, if it’s something that will leave me stranded, I’m willing to pay the extra cost for the part that lasted 20+ years. Just been my experience working on cars for 15 years and owing a pathfinder for 14 of those.

See if you can still get them from Nissan. Aftermarket ones are complete garbage.

My friends old wd21 had 5 wheel locks. The one on the spare was even marked "spare". You're damn right I grabbed those before he sold it haha.

Exactly. Mine would have a lean miss when it was cold. Couldn't narrow it down to a cylinder. Checked all vac lines and replace them. I even tore the thing down and did the intake gaskets thinking that was it. I was pretty pissed off when I found the cause! The one you can see by the EGR isn't available after market and I had to find a used one.

I live in Canada and got mine from a place in Toronto. I would just go with any of the companies with good reviews. Basically there are places that all they do is sell imported engines from Japan. I go it from here: http://torontojdm.com. It was from a 91 pathfinder but fit my 95 just fine.

Does it start okay in park and neutral? On mine the neutral safety switch failed and it wouldn’t go into OD or start in N. The truck also thought it was in P so the computer didn’t know what to do.

Sounds like a sensor issue. The idle air control valve went on mine and it did the same. When you pressed on the throttle it would bog down and come back up but went away as the engine warmed. In the summer if you put the AC on it wouldn’t do it at all. Something with the mixture. I wouldn't remove the EGR. It helps keep temps down.

I don’t have any pics but I can tell you, there are two on the muffler, one goes to the bracket on the upper control arm crossmember, the other is bolted right to the frame. Last I checked the hardware is still available aftermarket. The tailpipe one is the same as the rear muffler. They’re on rock auto right now. There is also one on the midpipe at the transfer case but I don’t think it’s available anymore. But it wouldn’t be hard to make something. My solution to rust was just not drive my pathy in the winter here. Lol.

I bought a used JDM import VG30 engine for less than $500. They told me it had around 50,000km on it. When I pulled the valve covers it looked brand new, not even any oil staining like you’d normally see. I would go that route if you want a bolt in economical swap.