adamzan

The first thing I would do is verify the valve and ignition timing. It could be running a tooth or two off. The smoke is probably just oil/coolant/penetrating oil burning off on the manifold.

Honestly I have no idea what it is for. Most people just plug it with a bolt of some kind. Mine only came with one bung though so I didn't have the problem.

Mine did this with this with aftermarket CVs. I believe the brand was cardone or surtrack.

lol "cold" in California.

2015 or 2016 I believe.

I wonder if Nissan still sells it? Sometimes they surprise me. I don’t find mine overly bright but I wouldn’t call it dim. I’ll take a pic for comparison.

Yeah that's normal. I see it on most cars especially ones that do a lot of short trips. Google oil cap mayonnaise and you'll see what a blown HG will do.

Sounds like you need a blower motor resistor.

It's not really that bad. If you've done a lot of car work it should be pretty straight forward. Just make sure you have a balancer puller. Also make sure you triple check the tooth count before reassembly. The first time I did one it took me 6 hours but now I can knock them out in like 2-3 lol.

It is kind of ridiculous. Since some of the stuff on an 87 pathfinder was used even in the (up to) 2004 Xterra. I usually have to wait 1-3 days to order things or just buy from Rockauto.

Parts companies to avoid: Dorman, mevotech, cardone, moog (used to be good but now is crap). If I have to get aftermarket I try and use beck/arnley as half the time it’s an oem looking part in the box. Or ACDelco as their parts are usually okay. Ive never had a bad oem part from Nissan, or VW for my golf. The way I look at it is, if it’s something that will leave me stranded, I’m willing to pay the extra cost for the part that lasted 20+ years. Just been my experience working on cars for 15 years and owing a pathfinder for 14 of those.

See if you can still get them from Nissan. Aftermarket ones are complete garbage.

My friends old wd21 had 5 wheel locks. The one on the spare was even marked "spare". You're damn right I grabbed those before he sold it haha.

Exactly. Mine would have a lean miss when it was cold. Couldn't narrow it down to a cylinder. Checked all vac lines and replace them. I even tore the thing down and did the intake gaskets thinking that was it. I was pretty pissed off when I found the cause! The one you can see by the EGR isn't available after market and I had to find a used one.

I live in Canada and got mine from a place in Toronto. I would just go with any of the companies with good reviews. Basically there are places that all they do is sell imported engines from Japan. I go it from here: http://torontojdm.com. It was from a 91 pathfinder but fit my 95 just fine.

Does it start okay in park and neutral? On mine the neutral safety switch failed and it wouldn’t go into OD or start in N. The truck also thought it was in P so the computer didn’t know what to do.

Sounds like a sensor issue. The idle air control valve went on mine and it did the same. When you pressed on the throttle it would bog down and come back up but went away as the engine warmed. In the summer if you put the AC on it wouldn’t do it at all. Something with the mixture. I wouldn't remove the EGR. It helps keep temps down.

I don’t have any pics but I can tell you, there are two on the muffler, one goes to the bracket on the upper control arm crossmember, the other is bolted right to the frame. Last I checked the hardware is still available aftermarket. The tailpipe one is the same as the rear muffler. They’re on rock auto right now. There is also one on the midpipe at the transfer case but I don’t think it’s available anymore. But it wouldn’t be hard to make something. My solution to rust was just not drive my pathy in the winter here. Lol.

I bought a used JDM import VG30 engine for less than $500. They told me it had around 50,000km on it. When I pulled the valve covers it looked brand new, not even any oil staining like you’d normally see. I would go that route if you want a bolt in economical swap.

I used a big pair of vice grips and worked it back and forth. Same idea.

Meh, mine treats me so well that if it wants a grand or so in repairs every so often I just do it. Still better than a car payment or any Hyundai.

On the WD21 the tie rods don't have zerks but the upper ball joints do. And the driveshaft u joints all do but you have to remove a bolt first and put a zerk in.

I don’t think the R50s had greaseable parts unless replaced with aftermarket.

I would just swap the trans harness. Less cutting that way.

They always seem to rust right where the frame turns down. That's where mine were rotted. I just ran rubber hose from the tank to that point. The rest of the lines were mint (literally looked new with the green coating).