adamzan

Not the exact same truck but I was able to bring my 2002 Xterra Supercharged from 14mpg mixed to 17city 22 highway just by replacing the o2 sensors. They were the originals but not throwing codes. They do get "lazy" over time.

This is why I stick with the clutch fan. It works and has never let me down.

Slart, the XE ones just had a sticker on the visor. My old truck was like that.

This ^. Also, check the resistance of all the injectors. Healthy ones are around 12 or 14ohms. There’s a connector on the passenger side valve cover that should allow you to test all of them including the hidden ones under the intake. I had one that was way out there and causing a misfire.

Nothing broke on it today, since I don't really drive it most of the time. But what is currently broken: Throttle position sensor Rear main seal leak ABS light on PCV hose broke off Random coolant leak I can't seem to find behind the engine.

This engine was used in many different vehicles so it’s to be expected.

What you’re describing is actually positive camber. If you have a lot Of it you either have too many shims or the torsion bars aren’t cranked up enough.

Haha, after having mice chew the injector wiring on my Xterra, I wrapped the entire new harness with this: https://www.amazon.com/Honda-4019-2317-Rodent-Tape/dp/B00AJTG3N0

WD21's don't have a cabin air filter. Which may be part of the issue lol.

Looked over my wd21 and decided to take it off the road for the season. There's too much I want to do (moving mods over from my old one), and some maintenance that will require removing the transmission (RMS). I'll drive the Xterra for the summer, and now I can work on the pathy, not worrying about putting it back together right away.

Not to my pathfinder but I installed the factory rockford fosgate subwoofer in my Xterra today. Sounds great.

Hitachi or Bosch are OE. I'd replace with all of the same that was in there, but as long as they're all the same it should be fine. Motor mounts have someone apply throttle while it's in drive and reverse with the brakes on. The engine should move a bit but not too much. If they're bad it will literally flop around.

Haha. I get comments on mine all the time. I tell my brother that I endured the “you look like a dirtbag” phase and am now in the “it’s cool and hipster because it’s old phase”.

That quote is only true for the newer ones. My 1995 reads the actual temp, and will fluctuate depending on AC use, the time of year, etc. My 02 Xterra has the fake smoothed reading gauge. It doesn't start rising until the engine reaches over 220F. I have see on the r50 several times where the radiator is unable to cool the truck sufficiently when it is old. Flushing did not help. Did the white smoke smell like coolant? That is an important question. I think you should take it to another shop for a check. Then leverage that against the dealership. I'm not sure how things work in VA, but here in Ontario most places are reasonable and will work with you on a resolution.

The OE temp thermostat is 205F according to rockauto, so those temps aren't really concerning. Did it rise above 220 or more? My VW runs at 210~ all the time. Sometimes higher. Did the gauge ever indicate actual overheating? I know on a cool morning mine will put out what looks like white smoke, but it's just condensation. Did it smell like antifreeze? Not trying to squash your claims but it is extremely rare for a head gasket to fail on the VG or VQ engines.

I found out the factory bushings fit the ac ones by just trying it one day lol. I have superlift arms now but they look the same.

You can get the bushings but they are pretty expensive. I found the poly ones made my ride a little more jarring but it's a truck so meh.

My parents had an r50 from nearly new (I think it was 2 years old off lease). You could always hear the rear end howl a little bit. It never had an issue and they had it for almost 250,000 miles before trading it in on a 2nd gen xterra.

I dealt with a bad vibration for years that turned out to be a bad driveshaft. The little weights that were welded on had fallen off. I highly doubt the diff is bad. They're extremely stout in these rigs. I've even had water in mine a few times before I knew to extend the vents. And the truck just got retired with 300k miles on it.

Do you have the odd looking 2 valve egr setup? One is called the Back pressure transducer. I know it sounds like I just made that up but I didn't. Looks like this: I had to replace mine for the egr to work properly on my 1995.

I'd replace the rear main seal on the motor if you're able. Get a nissan part if possible, though.

I would replace it with a 1st or 2nd gen xterra. They don't have major rust issues and both can be had for a good price. On the 2nd gen watch out for the SMOD crap if it is an automatic. The 4.0 has more power than the 3.3. But the 3.3 is the same reliable engine the 96-2000 r50 had. All the reliability issues I hear from friends owning subarus make me want to steer clear. I can't stand driving a car that burns oil. I don't like the independent rear on the r51. It is a pain to work on and the ones I've worked on (I'm in the same rust belt as you) everything is always seized and a huge pain in the ass.

How does that line fail, isn't it solid aluminum?

I’d start with the coolant temp sensor and the MAf sensor wiring. It is known to be problematic. I’ve worked on a ton of these trucks and I have never seen a failed fuel regulator before.

It's not a VQ35 it doesn't have that problem lol FYI Ishino Stone is the OEM gasket maker for Nissan. At least for the older ones.