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Everything posted by adamzan
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I don’t have any pics but I can tell you, there are two on the muffler, one goes to the bracket on the upper control arm crossmember, the other is bolted right to the frame. Last I checked the hardware is still available aftermarket. The tailpipe one is the same as the rear muffler. They’re on rock auto right now. There is also one on the midpipe at the transfer case but I don’t think it’s available anymore. But it wouldn’t be hard to make something. My solution to rust was just not drive my pathy in the winter here. Lol.
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I bought a used JDM import VG30 engine for less than $500. They told me it had around 50,000km on it. When I pulled the valve covers it looked brand new, not even any oil staining like you’d normally see. I would go that route if you want a bolt in economical swap.
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I used a big pair of vice grips and worked it back and forth. Same idea.
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On the WD21 the tie rods don't have zerks but the upper ball joints do. And the driveshaft u joints all do but you have to remove a bolt first and put a zerk in.
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I don’t think the R50s had greaseable parts unless replaced with aftermarket.
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I would just swap the trans harness. Less cutting that way.
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They always seem to rust right where the frame turns down. That's where mine were rotted. I just ran rubber hose from the tank to that point. The rest of the lines were mint (literally looked new with the green coating).
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Is cornbread gluten free?
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No idea. It's probably the same, unless you have that little sub 1/4 tank gauge some of them had.
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It's probably fine. I'm actually running 0w40 in my wd21 right now. Great cold start flow, and runs like a 40W at temp.
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Why 5w20? That is a little thin at temp for these engines. Nissan spec is/was 5w30. I accidentally put it in my vg xterra once and it rattled when warm.
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https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-sending-unit-2506185p05/?c=Zz1mdWVsLXN5c3RlbSZzPWZ1ZWwtc3lzdGVtLWNvbXBvbmVudHMmaT0zNjE1MTU1NCZyPTEwJmE9bmlzc2FuJm89cGF0aGZpbmRlciZ5PTE5OTUmdD1zZSZlPTMtMGwtdjYtZ2Fz They are 168 there. I will likely be buying one soon as well as I can't seem to find a good used part...
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http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_4170.htm This is where I bought mine and one for another member as a secret santa gift. Many years ago actually lol.
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The VG33 dipstick also sucks ass. My xterra one is a pain to remove and it is hard to check the oil.
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95 is an electric speedo. You can try taking the cluster out and cleaning all the contacts and tightening the brass screws.
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Yep, 5/16". Or 8mm. I ran all new lines last year, that was fun.
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I've learned the difference between Jeep people an real car people. The jeep fanboys are just losers who care only about looks and wheeling on construction sites. Everyone at work calls mine a jeep. I've stopped caring because it looks more badass than the typical Hyundai everyone and their mother has.
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That's rare, the 3.0 knock sensor is never an issue normally. It's usually a symptom of something else. It doesn't do that much on N/A vehicles.
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http://bandit4x4.com/4x4-truck-parts/steering-parts/oem-stock-idler-arm-bushings/
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The 555/Ac delco professional one is the best aftermarket. Otherwise just rebuild your stock one with the bronze bushings. The stock ones are NOT brass, they're nylon/plastic. Kind of like what timing chain guides are made of.
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I have the fram sure drain on my other pathy and I've never had an issue on the trails. At least on the WD21 the oil pan is preceded by a crossmember, so that would get hit if anything. I'd be more worried on my Golf as the car is low and they're known for taking out oil pans, just on the street.
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I don’t know where he’s at now, he started acting like a c u n t
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Mine did the same. It always seems to be the muffler hangers too. Then the cat just touches the crossmember enough to be an issue.
