adamzan

Yes it is. http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=22116 You might need an account. I'll try and copypasta the thread and make one here.

I love being able to see the temps like that in my X. Wish there was a way to tap into the wd21 ecu.

I installed those on my friend's pathfinder, found them very soft compared to the stock shocks. Let us know how they are. For my stock 95 resto project, I just ordered 4 new adjustable ones from nissan.

What shocks did you go with?

I had one of those big makita hand drills. Thing is a beast and it will tear your arm off lol:

I'm not sure what all you have done, but have you made sure the o2 sensor is in good shape? It made a big difference on my wd21 and my 3.3L xterra. The TBI probably can't regulate fuel as well as the newer injected models.

I just drilled my pitman arm on the truck. I couldn't get the nut loose. Broke my 2ft breaker bar trying...

Sounds like a distributor. Very common on the r50. Non coil pack vehicles dont need a crank sensor to operate. The wd21s dont even have a crank and separate cam sensor.

You can run it without the timing belt covers just to see where the leak is. I did that once on mine.

What brand of seals? I had a bad experience recently with aftermarket and just went to Nissan. Also check the cam for any score marks that may have gotten there when removing the old ones.

You aren't using the 4wd on dry ground are you? Because it will bind in that scenario. Mine is making odd noises in 4wd from the front end, almost like a whooping sound. If I find the source I'll post it here.

These guys have you covered on the window, but this is the most cost effective way to lift your truck: https://sfcreation.com He is in Canada as well which eliminates the insane shipping/duty costs when buying from the usa.

Well I finally looked up what flocking is, haha. Post some pics.

The sensor being seated correctly is extremely important. I've run into this a few times on other vehicles. Mostly VW and Nissan. On my parents Maxima, I had replaced the front right sensor, and there was some corrosion not allowing it to seat properly. This resulted in the cruise control not working, ABS/VDC lights on, and the speedometer read half the speed you were actually going. Had to remove it and grind down the mount. I painted it with POR15 to prevent it from happening again.

93-95 use a different ECU and o2 sensor I believe. Just something to keep in mind.

If you wheel or lift the truck it makes the steering feel like stock again. And my idler arm lasts more than a month.

Check the wire to the sending unit. It is to the left of the oil filter, hard to reach but it is common for people to mess up the wire during an oil change. It could be grounding out on something. I would also have the oil pressure checked to be sure as well.

There will be a blue sticker by the brake booster. I can 100% tell you it is r134a, but double check to make sure.

It is back and it is the same guy. Same great product as before.

You'll want EM and AT. That will have removal instructions for both.

I would check the timing just to be sure. Should be 12 or 15 degrees. Also try unplugging the o2 sensor and see if it runs better. As well as test the cylinder head temp sensor. Its a bit of a bitch to reach but doable.

Took it for a drive since it was a nice day. Everything appears to be business as usual.

Only the manual ones have a relay. Check your ignition switch. Its common for it to be intermittent, as it passes full current to the solenoid on the automatic.

Honestly the orange filters are overpriced for what you get but it wont cause you any problems. Run it till your next oil change.