adamzan

Double check the timing. If the distributor is good, and is installed on the right tooth, it will at least run somewhat smooth in any position you can turn it. If they used a junkyard one or a cheap aftermarket, suspect that. You can unplug the MAF and try it to see if it runs fine at idle in the default fuel map. Same with the o2 sensors.

Just leave it alone. It will make zero difference removing it.

A lot of those aftermarket parts are junk. It isn't uncommon for me to have to go through 2 or 3 before I get a good one. I always try and get OE, if possible.

The gates waterpump on my previous t-belt service lasted 160,000km. So its probably fine.

You will be fine with any good aftermarket brand, Gates, ACDelco, Dayco. I'm using a Continental kit on mine which was Goodyear.

195-205 is the optimum temp. I wish my pathfinder would heat up past 180. I found a 192F thermostat on rock auto, going to try that next. In the winter you need to block nearly the whole radiator to get good heat out of it. Other wise your choice is keep the window clear and freeze, or be warm and can't see lol. I guess the cooling system works too well on mine. Last winter I took the fan clutch off and ran it like that the entire winter. Even in traffic it didn't budge above where it normally sits. Heat was way better too.

You should be able to swap the guts over no issue. I've done it on a front door once. If anything is riveted in place you will need to drill out the rivets and either bolt/rivet the parts back on. I don't remember if or what is though, it was 7 years ago! The speaker holes are all the same, the later models just had a plastic adapter plate that allows the oval speakers to mount. At least as far as I've seen.

My parents late model r50 had them replaced around the same mileage. I replaced them with polyurethane bushings. Never had another issue.

The best way would be to remove the body, completely plate the frame. Coat the outside in POR15 and Krown the inside.

I think they would be similar. Haven't heard of anyone doing it but you could be the first! Only downside would be the leaf rear end instead of the 5 link.

These aren't @!*% box domestic cars, they were built to a way higher standard.. The bearings on my 94 are original and have almost half a million km. I just repack and adjust when I do the brakes.

You can just adjust the bearings. Don't need to replace them unless they feel rough.

My 95 came with a 31" spare on the wheel. I have the receipt from Nissan in 1995 when the original owner bought it. They did have to pay extra.

I've had the best luck with beck/arnley aftermarket electronics.

Why would they not check the bearings first? Any garage I've been to won't align it until that's fixed. Because now you're doing it twice.

Good luck! I didn't have a jack under the pan but I also didn't remove the t-bars. I was only doing an oil pan gasket job. My step dad and I got it back in, but it did take like an hour of &^%*ing around before i could get one of the front bolts started to hold it.

I had to remove the pinion support cross member to remove mine. I put it back in then bolted the cross member back in. It was a huge pain in the ass. You have to kind of start it vertically, then slide the diff brackets into the brackets on the front cross member. I loosened the bolts on the brackets on the front cross member which gave me some wiggle room. Get a friend to help, it just takes a little work but you can do it!

That looks great under there. I'm betting you're just having @!*% luck with senders. Did you replace it with an OE one? Good idea to test with a mechanical gauge. If all is well after that, run it without worry. Mine has 275k miles on it (roughly) and still has great oil pressure.

Definitely sounds like a bad alternator. I wouldn't suspect corrosion on the terminals on a 2014 in Texas. But it wouldn't hurt to check them. Possibly under warranty still?

you can shim it. Or do what did and wrap some electrical tape around the striker. Fixed lol.

Replaced spark plugs on the 95. First time since I put the engine in. The ngk V powers I pulled out had a little wear but were probably still good. They had about 49,000km, the oe interval is 48k. Replaced with AC Delco 41-602 as the store did not have V-Power in stock anymore. Running the platinum plugs on the vg30 is a waste of money IMO. Also replaced cap and rotor. Had the oem nissan rotor and the end was all rusted. Cured a rough start issue I had. Drove it to Toronto and back this weekend, averaged 23 mpg!

Dumb I know, but is the plug wire seated on firmly? I swear every time I do plugs on my pathfinder I fire it up and it has a miss. Every time there was one wire that was not on securely. Easy to tell if its getting fuel and not firing, the plug should be soaked with gas. I say "should" as that has been my experience before.

You say 250-270 miles per tank. How much are you putting in at fill up? It is a 21 gallon tank, and the gauges on these tend to read more empty than they actually are. Get the knock sensor relocated or bypassed, how old are the o2 sensors? I replaced them on my Xterra and gained 4-5 mpg instantly. I could never get more than 14mpg before I changed them. And there were no codes, just get lazy over time.

That's what I did and left it that way, not intentionally, but because @!*% came up and I had to drive somewhere. It has been that way for like 5 years, and I don't think I even taped it up lol. I didn't wire the tweeters back in, I have aftermarket speakers with built in tweeters that sound great. The reason they used the amps in the first place is because it sounds better. The stock system when it was newer sounded pretty good compared to other cars of the day. If you want to use the amps you need to connect the blue "remote" wire on the new deck to the blue amp wire in the adapter harness.

As soon as I hear that from any mechanic, I walk away. If I thought it was too much to fix I would have just scrapped it myself already!