adamzan

Take the instrument cluster out, and clean/tighten the brass screws on the back, they are the ground points.

I was told by the parts guy at Nissan, that if there is enough demand, that they will actually start making parts again. Which is awesome.

Now that I think of it, this wasn't really a different question. I'm pretty sure its been asked many time before.

Honestly when my truck was stock height I never had any steering issues. It was only when I lifted it and changed the angle of the tie rods that it started wearing the drag link and idler very fast. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AC ones suck for ball joint angles. The Superlift/RC ones are the best. I had the AC ones and had to buy the Superlift ones because the truck was eating ball joints every 6 months. Use the superlift ones, SAS the truck, or leave it stock. Those are the 3 options IMO.

This is not the first time I've see a reman starter do this. Try exchanging it for another one. It doesn't sound like it is engaging the flywheel at all.

Just keep rotating it and pulling it forward. It will come out eventually. Its not that bad.

Yeah, that is kind of normal as they age if the oil hasn't been changed religiously. Not a big deal. Mine does it every now and then.

And yet they still run to 400,000km with no issues. I don't see a problem. The engine only takes 3.6L of oil in the first place!

I would double check the pressure. If it really had no oil pressure the top end would be ticking like crazy. Could be a worn oil pump, worn bearings, or just a ****** sending unit. I believe it is the same unit for the gauge and the light.

The filter you should be using is the 7317 if going by fram numbers (I don't use their filters but the numbers making looking up things easy). The other one is the 6607 which is even smaller. My moms maxima specs that one but I use the bigger one anyway on it.

Sounds like the common MAF plug wiring issue. Try wiggling the connector and see if it makes a difference. Clean all the contacts as well. What happens is the wires get loose at the connector end due to people not unhooking it to change the air filter. Fuel filter would not cause this, though it couldn't hurt to change it anyway.

Timing is probably off. Should be at 15 Degrees. Does it feel like it has no low end but more top end?

Take it somewhere else, leave those idiots behind. Tons of people use his lift and have zero issues.

I'm not so sure anymore. I've seen a few of vg33 break recently and nothing happened. Maybe they are less interference than the 3.0? Regardless people should just change the belt on time and avoid the annoyance of a breakdown.

It sounds like the timing belt slipped a few teeth. Spark will still be there, but the timing will be way too off for it to run. I'd check that next.

Not sure how long your cables are if aftermarket, but they aren't backwards are they? I could see one bad injector but not 2. Did they go in smoothly, the o rings could get torn and flood the cylinder.

The UCA ones are M14.1.5x50, or 60mm if you need to add more shims lol. Also in case anyone doesn't know. Grade 8.8 in metric is equivalent to standard GRADE 5. You need grade 10.9 in metric to be the same as standard grade 8. I've seen so many people attaching @!*% with 8.8 bolts and I'm thinking, I'm never riding in this vehicle ever.

Power wash under there first. Makes it a lot cleaner.

Could go the JY route... That's probably what I'd do to be honest.

Sounds like you should find a new body shop. Most around here will do all work and love to sell you rustproofing (oil spray is best).

It takes quite a few turns for it to line up again. If you are confident the belt is on properly, move on to the ignition timing. It would run a tooth off, not well, but it would run. Was the distributor removed (you shouldn't ever need to unless replacing it)? Bring the engine back to TDC and reset the distributor as well so its pointing at plug wire #1.

There is only one o2 sensor on the 1995 pathfinder. It is upstream of the cat. There is no downstream sensor. The camshaft sensor is in the distributor. Last I checked it isn't available separately.

I would start with pulling the distributor cap and checking for any brown/red/gold dust under there. If there is, the bearing is failing and causing the camshaft sensor to read wrong. If not it could still be a bad distributor, but check the coolant temp sensor as well. Definitely sounds electrical for sure.

I used to as well. When I started out with this company I had to do all the onsite service. Now we have new lower level people to do that, hehe. The amount I got paid in mileage was still more than the pathy used in gas...